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Trainworx TWX-2010 Assembly Instructions Manual

Concrete coaling tower
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Assembly Instructions for
TWX-2010
Concrete Coaling Tower
TW TrainWorx, 2808 McGowan St, Dallas, TX 75203
214-634-2971

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Summary of Contents for Trainworx TWX-2010

  • Page 1 Assembly Instructions for TWX-2010 Concrete Coaling Tower TW TrainWorx, 2808 McGowan St, Dallas, TX 75203 214-634-2971...
  • Page 2 This manual is accompanied by a video with painting and weathering instructions that can be found on YouTube, under TW Trainworx channel. Simply search for TWX-2010 Painting Video. The vide outlines the paints, colors and techniques we used to decorate the coaling tower.
  • Page 3 This manual contains instructions for assembling 5 individual structures; Hopper Shed Coal Ramp Hoist House Sand House Concrete Coaling Tower The manual contains a lot of pages, this is due to the sizing of the photos to assist you in the construction of this kit.
  • Page 4 Step 1 Assembling the Coaling Tower Main Structure A1 (1pc) A6 (1pc) D1 (1pc) C6 (1pc) D5 (2pcs; East Slope & West Slope) a.) Once the pieces are removed from the frets carefully sand down the sprues so all the surfaces are flat.
  • Page 5 Inner Slope East Inner Slope West f.) We recommend dry fitting the pieces together, one to ensure the pieces do not have any sprues preventing the pieces from assembling tightly. Two, to familiarize yourself with how the six pieces will assemble. g.) Using wood glue apply a bead of glue to both edges of the “inner slope west”...
  • Page 6 j.) Using masking tape, place two pieces on each leg, making sure the joint is tight and aligned evenly. Also place two pieces of tape on the main body, again ensuring the joint is tight and the sides are aligned correctly. k.) Repeat the masking tape clamps on the opposite side of A1 (where it mates with A6) in the same manner.
  • Page 7 m.) Repeat the same masking tape clamping as you just did for the opposite side. n.) Wait approximately 30 minutes for the glue to completely set.
  • Page 8 Step 2 Assembling the Main Structure Legs (NE & SE) A10 (1pc) (NE) D2 (1pc) (NOTE: there are two parts marked D2, only remove the one marked SE) D3 (1pc) Note: The interlocking tabs on these leg components have been designed to prevent you from assembling them incorrectly! a.) We strongly recommend you dry fit these three components before applying any glue.
  • Page 9 three pieces be assembled together with fresh wood glue so you have time to clamp the joints securely with masking tape. D2 (SE) Looking from the legs, into the underside of main structure g.) Using masking tape clamps again tightly wrap the bottom and the top of both the NE and SE legs to ensure the joints are tight and aligned properly.
  • Page 10 Step 3 Assembling the Main Structure Legs (NW & SW) D2 (1pc) (the marked SW) A7 (1pc) A9 (1pc) A8 (2pcs) Note: The interlocking tabs on these leg components have been designed to prevent you from assembling them incorrectly! a.) We strongly recommend you dry fit these five components before applying any glue. This will help you fully understand the orientation of these leg components, which will be very handy when it’s time to apply glue.
  • Page 11 D2 (SW) Looking from the legs, into the underside of main structure...
  • Page 12 Scribed lines facing outwards f.) Position A9 in between A7 and D2 (SW), this will look like an upside-down “U” shape when properly positioned. D3 will install horizontally. The photos below illustrate the orientation of these parts. g.) Once you understand the orientation of these parts and see the thin edges where glue should be applied begin applying a bead of wood glue on a total of 6 edges.
  • Page 13 Step 4 Mounting the Legs to the Foundation A2 (1pc) A3 (1pc) a.) It will be obvious which foundation plate goes with what set of legs, but just in case you cannot figure it out part A2 has SW scribed on it and part A3 has SE scribed on it. Simply match up the compass locations on the foundation pieces with the compass locations on the legs.
  • Page 14 c.) Apply a bead of wood glue to the bottom of all four main structure legs. Then carefully position the leg tabs into the foundation pieces. Stand the coaling tower upright, so the weight of tower presses down on the foundation pieces until the glue sets completely. Do not glue the bucket supports into the foundation yet! This will come later in the assembly process.
  • Page 15 Once the filler is applied, allow it 20-30 minutes to set completely. Using 220 grit sandpaper lightly sand down the areas where you applied filler putty making the joint smooth (and unseen once paint is applied). This process will also remove any excess glue that pressed out of the seams when gluing.
  • Page 17 The previous photo shows what the surface / joints should look like after sanding the filler putty. Once all the joints have been sanded lightly sand the entire surface of the structure. This will help with paint adhesion later in the assembly process. Step 6 Installing the Sloped Roof J4 (1pc) J5 (1pc)
  • Page 18 c.) Clamps work best for this step, however, if you do not have clamps masking tape will suffice. Apply wood glue to the surfaces shown below and install J4 on the correct side of the tower structure, clamp (or clamp with tape so the joint is tight). Apply wood glue to these 3 sides only d.) Apply wood glue to J5 and repeat the process on the other side.
  • Page 19 Apply glue on these 3 surfaces only f.) Once J6 is in position (note: it is imperative that the corners on the long side of J6 match up with the edges of the part it is being adhered to) make sure you line up the corners (you do not want it to be off to one side or the other, but centered on the wall itself).
  • Page 20 h.) Repeat the process for J7, centering it on the wall at the bottom and aligning the top corners with the top corners of J4 and J5. Using masking tape clamp the entire assembly together and allow the wood glue to set completely. Step 7 Building the Top Tower A15 (2pcs) A16 (1pc)
  • Page 21 b.) Once the bucket roof and side supports dry completely it’s time to assemble the walls of the tower. The photo below illustrates the order in which these assemble. (Note: the tabs are designed to prevent you from assembling these walls incorrectly).
  • Page 22 d.) Once you have the walls glued wrap the tower in masking tape to keep it held together while the wood glue dries completely. Make certain the four walls are square! (use a small square to ensure each wall is set at a 90-degree angle) e.) We are intentionally leaving the roof off this tower until the very end (by leaving the roof off we can access the interior of the tower for routing the cables used to raise and lower the bucket).
  • Page 23 Step 8 Mounting the top Tower to the Main Structure a.) Position the top tower on top of the main structure, being certain to align the bucket roof (on the top tower) with the side that has the repeating square holes (A1). Apply a bead of wood glue to the underside of the top tower and se masking tape to hold it in position while the glue sets.
  • Page 24 No filler required here, There is a walkway above the seam Step 9 Filling and Sanding the Tower Much like Step 5 we need to fill and sand the mounting tab joints on the top tower. Using wood filler or Squadron Products®...
  • Page 25 b.) Using wood glue, apply a small bead on the narrow edge of the locations circled in the diagram below. Assemble the hopper ramp as illustrated below and use masking tape and or clamps to keep the assembly together until the glue sets completely. Use a square to ensure the corners are set to 90 degrees.
  • Page 26 f.) There is no need to use filler putty on the Hopper Ramp Top joints, as sidewalks will be glued along the outside edges (and will subsequently hide those gaps). Step 11 Mounting the Hopper Ramp Sidewalks C15 (2pcs) a.) Remove both sidewalk pieces (C15) and sand the sprues off the parts so the edges are smooth and even.
  • Page 27 Step 12 Building the Hopper Shed A4 (4pcs) A5 (8pcs) B1 (2pcs) C14 (2pcs) J10 (1pc) J11 (1pc) a.) Locate the ends and side walls of the Hopper shed (B1 x 2 and C14 x 2). Sand the sprues so the edges are smooth and flat.
  • Page 28 c.) Locate the pilasters (A4 x 4 and A5 x 8). It is important to note that these pilasters are designed to be mounted with the wording facing the Hopper Shed walls (so only the smooth surface of the pilasters face outwards). The diagram below illustrates the orientation of these pilasters. NOTE: The slope on the top of A4 matches the slope on the corner of C14.
  • Page 29 may be helpful to use one of the roof halves (J10 or J11) to assist in helping to measure the angle. Sand the angle on the tops of all eight A5 pilasters to match the angle of the roof Photo showing all the angles on A5 pilaster, down one side. e.) Locate the two roof halves for the Hopper Shed (J10 and J11).
  • Page 30 f.) Flip the taped roof halves over and apply a small bead of wood glue in the gap that runs the center of the roof (in between the bevels). Apply wood glue in this joint g.) Before the glue in the bevel gap sets up apply a bead of wood glue along the narrow edges on top of the Hopper Shed peaks (parts C14).
  • Page 31 i.) Once the glue sets up, remove the tape and apply wood filler or white putty to any gaps that exist on the corner pilasters and the roof seam. Sand the filler down using 220 grit sandpaper and ensure the surface is smooth. Sand the entire roof surface with the sandpaper to ensure the paint adheres better later in the assembly process.
  • Page 32 d.) Locate the two roof halves for the Hoist House (J1 and J2). Lay the roof halves down on the table with the wording facing down (towards the table) with the bevel in the center. Apply a couple pieces of masking tape to hold the two halves together tightly. e.) Flip the taped roof halves over and apply a small bead of wood glue in the gap that runs the center of the roof (in between the bevels).
  • Page 33 f.) Before the glue in the bevel gap sets up apply a bead of wood glue along the narrow edges on top of the Hoist House peaks (parts A11 and A12). g.) Carefully place the roof on top of the Hoist House and use masking tape to hold the roof tightly against the hoist house.
  • Page 34 Step 14 Building the Sand House C1 (1pc) C3 (1pc) C4 (1pc) C9 (1pc) C12 (1pc) J3 (1pc) a.) Locate the ends and side walls of the Sand House (C1, C3, C4 and C9). Sand the sprues so the edges are smooth and flat. b.) It is extremely important that the walls of the sand house be assembled properly! Follow the diagram below for orienting the walls.
  • Page 35 c.) Using wood glue apply a small bead of glue to the narrow edges of C1 and C3. Assemble the four main walls (ensuring the finish sides are facing outward) and using masking tape as a clamp (or clamps) secure the walls until the glue dries. Make certain the corners are square (90-degree angles).
  • Page 36 e.) Once the glue sets on the narrow roof remove all the masking tape clamps and locate the large roof for the sand house (J3). Orient the roof so the words are facing down, place the bevel on J3 against the narrow roof edge. Apply a bead of wood glue to the top of the slanted walls. Position the large roof on top of the slanted walls and clamp in place using masking tape.
  • Page 37 At this stage of assembly all the laser cut MDF parts have been assembled. Refer to the TWX-2010 Painting Video for instructions on how to paint and weather these structures before proceeding into the next stages of assembly. Step 15 Completing the Hopper Shed...
  • Page 38 b.) Remove the adhesive on the back side of the window (H9) and adhere it to the transparent glass (K5). It is imperative that the edges line up perfectly or the window will not fit in the opening. Ensure all 4 sides of the translucent glass align with the c.) Make 6 of these windows with transparent glass for the hopper shed.
  • Page 39 e.) Position the window over top of the window opening in the Hopper Shed. The window and glass on the will fit snugly into the opening and the window frame will adhere to the Hopper Shed Surface. Repeat this process 6 times until all the windows are installed. f.) The Hopper Shed is now complete and can be set aside until the kit is finished.
  • Page 40 Remove the bottom protective paper only Door with E10 properly positioned c.) Once the door has been painted and weathered remove the protective paper on the top of the door and position the window glass (K1) even with the edges of the door. d.) Locate the man door frame (H5).
  • Page 41 f.) Locate the double door (H4) and the double door backing panel (E11). Remove the backing from the double door and apply the backing to the adhesive side of the door. The backing panel must fit within the limits of the double door (or it will not fit in its respective opening). g.) Locate the double door frame (H6).
  • Page 42 i.) Locate the hoist house window frame (H14) and remove the protective paper to expose the adhesive. Position the window in the center of the frame and insert the window and frame into the opening on the side of the hoist house. j.) The hoist house is now completed, it can be set aside until much later in the assembly process.
  • Page 43 b.) Locate the sand house window (H8) and remove the protective cover from the back, exposing the adhesive backing. Position the clear window glass (K2) and position it even with the edges of the window. Now locate the sand house window frame and remove the protective cover on the back top expose the adhesive backing.
  • Page 44 c.) Set the sand house aside for the time being, we will revisit it towards the end of the assembly instructions. Step 17 Coaling Tower Walkways There are several components that create the walkways for the coaling tower, as such we will explain the methodology in assembling the railings one time.
  • Page 45 Walkway A F2 (1pc) F3 (1pc) F7 (1pc) F8 (2pcs) a.) Remove the walkway base (F2), the long handrail (F3), the short handrail (F7) and two shortest handrails (F8) from the frets. This comprises one set of components for the walkway below the upper door on the NE / NW wall.
  • Page 46 Note how the tabs interlock with one another, as shown above Walkway B F4 (1pc) F5 (1pc) F13 (1pc) F14 (1pc) Walkway B Assembled...
  • Page 47 Walkway C G9 (1pc) with only 2 tabs on the bottom of the railing) G18 (1pc) G19 (1pc) G20 (1pc)
  • Page 48 Walkway C Assembled Walkway D G1 (1pc) G5 (1pc) G7 (1pc) G8 (1pc) G10 (1pc)
  • Page 49 Walkway D Assembled Walkway E G21 (2pcs) G22 (1pc)
  • Page 50 Walkway E Assembled Walkway F G2 (1pc) G3 (1pc) G9 (1pc)
  • Page 51 Walkway F Assembled...
  • Page 52 Walkway G F1 (1pc) F8 (1pc) F12 (1pc) F15 (1pc) F18 (1pc) E12 (1pc) E13 (1pc) E14 (1pc) E47 (3pcs) This walkway involves 3 stair treads (E47). Pay close attention to the finished walkway photos for the positioning of the single stair stringer (E12) and the cover plate (E13) applied to outside of the long handrail (E14) to hide where the stair treads interlock.
  • Page 53 Walkway G Assembled (alternate view) Note positioning of stair stringer E12...
  • Page 54 Ensure E12 is even with back edge of walkway platform! Walkway H G23 (1pc) G24 (1pc) G25 (2pcs) G26 (2pcs) G27 (1pc) G28 (2pcs)
  • Page 55 Walkway H Assembled Walkway H Assembled (Alternate View) At this point all the walkway platforms have been assembled. Set these aside for the time being.
  • Page 56 Step 18 Building the Long Staircase E36 (22pcs) E41 (2pcs) E42 (2pcs) a.) Begin by applying medium viscosity super glue in the 4 corners of the stair tread as shown below. Apply super glue in these 4 corners b.) Start the staircase with 3 treads. One on each extreme end and one in the middle. Ensure the tab inserts into the opening on the stair stringer.
  • Page 57 c.) Once the three starter treads have been installed carefully insert each tread starting at one end, working towards the center. Ensure you apply super glue to each tread to prevent it from falling out. d.) Once all the treads have been installed apply the laminate cover to hide the ends of the treads in the stringers.
  • Page 58 Step 19 Building the Short Staircase E6 (1pc) E7 (1pc) E8 (2pcs) E9 (2pcs) E36 (10pcs) a.) Assemble the short staircase in the same manner as you just assembled the long staircase. Start with a tread on each extreme end of the stringers, then insert the treads from one end to the other.
  • Page 59 Once the stairway is assembled be sure to add the laminates to the sides of the stringers to hide the tread tabs! (see photo above for reference). Refer to the TWX-2010 Youtube Video for painting instructions before continuing with the assembly process!
  • Page 60 Step 20 Installing the Walkway Support Brackets E29 (24pcs) a.) Remove all 24 pieces of E29 (Walkway Support Brackets). Clean the sprues off each piece so the sides are flat and even. The brackets insert into the slots in the MDF walls as shown below. NOTE: We do recommend that you glue these brackets into the walls of the structure to prevent them from coming out over time.
  • Page 61 b.) Using a very small dab of medium viscosity super glue applied to the tab that inserts into the structure. Carefully insert the tab into the slot in the structure ensuring the back edge of E29 sits flush against the structure wall. (It may be necessary to scrape away some of the paint on the E29 tabs to allow the parts to fit into the slots on the tower.) The photos below show all the E29 Walkway Support Brackets installed on the main tower structure.
  • Page 62 Step 21 Attaching the Walkways to the Support Brackets a.) Apply a small bead of medium viscosity super glue to the top narrow edge of the Walkway Support Brackets (E29) for each walkway that you plan to attach. This will bond with the walkway and allow you time to insert the alignment tabs on each bracket into the reciprocating slots on the walkway.
  • Page 63 Ensure each mounting tab is inserted into its respective slot. b.) Once each walkway is glued to its respective support brackets install the walkway grate by using a couple small dabs of medium viscosity super glue to the underside of the grates. NOTE: Each grate has an outline around the see-through grating, these outlines should be facing up! See the next photo for reference.
  • Page 64 Walkway A (the grate for walkway A is G16) Walkway F (the grate for walkway F is F9) The Long Staircase is also shown in position below (Super glue is used at the bottom and at the top to hold it in position). Walkway F Long Staircase Walkway A...
  • Page 65 Walkway C Walkway B Walkway D (the grate is F11) Walkway E (the grate for walkway E is F7) Walkway E is installed in the center of the main tower structure, it runs between the lower man door and the lower window (used to maintain the internal coal chutes and rigging). See the next image for the location of Walkway E.
  • Page 66 Walkway E (looking through the lower man door)
  • Page 67 Walkway G (the grate for walkway G is F17 & F18) Walkway H (the grate for walkway H is G29) NOTE: Do not mount walkway H to the pillar now, it will only get in the way while adding coal chute details. It can be mounted as the last step in the assembly process.
  • Page 68 Note the orientation of grate G29 on the top of the H walkway. Step 22 Mounting the Bucket Track Supports C11 (12pcs) NOTE: C11 is comprised of 3 different length brackets. These brackets are marked as A (shortest), B (medium) and C (longest). The photo below illustrates where these brackets are marked. B (4pc) C (3pc) A (5pc)
  • Page 69 Length A x 5 b.) Now place the four pieces of C11 marked as B in the four sets of square holes on the back wall of the main tower structure. Apply a small dab of super glue if necessary. (These supports should sit at a 90-degree angle with the wall.
  • Page 70 c.) Now glue the 3 remaining supports (C11 size C) to the two vertical posts. One support mounts flat against the foundation. The other two align with the scribed alignment lines on the vertical posts. These supports should be at a 90-degree angle to the support posts and level. Use super glue to secure the vertical support posts to the foundation as well.
  • Page 71 a.) Using super glue attach the top and bottom plates (E2) to the I-beam webs (E3). Glue the top and bottom plates (E4) to the I-beam webs (E5). b.) Locate the 1/32” brass rod in the accessory box. Remove the protective paper from the adhesive on the back side of one piece of H17 (large pulley).
  • Page 72 d.) Using the 1/32” brass rod sandwich the two pulleys you made in the previous steps between the larger two I beams. There are already holes in the I-Beams to thread the wire through. Using a small dab of super glue, glue the brass rod in place to hold each pulley. e.) Using a small dab of super glue on the tabs of E3 insert each I beam into the slots in the main tower (on the same side as the bucket track).
  • Page 73 Single Pulley Beam & Supports G11 (2pcs) G12 (4pcs) G13 (4pcs) G14 (2pcs) H17 (2pcs) H18 (1pc)
  • Page 74 a.) Using super glue attach the top and bottom plates (G12) to the I-beam webs (G11). Glue the top and bottom plates (G13) to the I-beam webs (G14). b.) Locate the 1/32” brass rod in the accessory box. Remove the protective paper from the adhesive on the back side of one piece of H17 (large pulley).
  • Page 75 d.) Using the 1/32” brass rod sandwich the pulley you made in the previous steps between the larger two I beams. There are already holes in the I-Beams to thread the wire through. Using a small dab of super glue, glue the brass rod in place to the pulley. e.) Using a small dab of super glue on the tabs of G11 insert each I beam into the slots in the main tower (on the same side as the bucket track).
  • Page 76 Lift Cable Return Roller E21 (1pc) E22 (2pcs) E23 (1pc) H19 (2pcs) H20 (1pc)
  • Page 77 a.) Assemble the pulleying the same manner as the last two, using the 1/32” brass rod from the accessories box. b.) Assemble the pulley bracket as shown below. E21 is the middle horizontal piece and E23 is the plate, that mounts up against the main tower structure. c.) Use the 1/32”...
  • Page 78 Resin Spindle a.) The resin spindle is glued between the vertical plates, it does not rotate freely like the other pulleys up to this point. See the photo below showing how it is assembled. b.) Glue the assembly to the main tower structure as shown below.
  • Page 79 Step 24 Mounting the Lift Bucket Rails E1 (1pc) E32 (1pc) a.) Position the two tracks on the inside of the top tower bucket roof. Using a toothpick and medium viscosity super glue work your way up from the bottom, applying glue to the support bracket and pressing the track against the bracket.
  • Page 80 Note the position of the track in relationship to the support brackets, as shown below. (The bucket rails are on the inside of the support brackets!) Step 25 Coal Bucket E38 (2pcs) E40 (2pcs) E44 (1pc) E16 (1pc) E17 (4pcs)
  • Page 81 a.) Assemble the coal bucket. Part E38 (with the two ears) will be the side of the bucket mounted between the rails. b.) Locate the two rollers (E17) and mount them to the two ears on E38, as shown below. Once the rollers are glued in position cut the ears off flush with the outside edge of the E38 ear.
  • Page 82 d.) Position the coal bucket anywhere you like on the bucket rails. The rollers on the bucket itself mount in between the rails. The rollers on the bucket pivot assembly sit on top of the rails, as shown in the next photo.
  • Page 83 For the time being place the bucket assembly aside, we will come back and glue it into position towards the end of the manual (when we route the rigging and concrete counterweight). NOTE: You can fill the coal bucket with scale coal now and give it plenty of time to dry. You can also place a piece of filler material in the coal bucket (such as crumpled up newspaper or a foam block cut to fill most of the space) and glue the coal to the top of the filler material using a mixture of white glue and water mixed 50/50 (with a drop of dishwashing soap to help the substance flow around the coal better).
  • Page 84 Step 26 Building the Coal Chutes E37 (6pcs) E39 (3pcs) E45 (3pcs) E46 (3pcs) H12 (3pcs) 1/32” Brass Rod L-Angle Styrene 1/8” H-column Styrene 3 Resin Cast Coal Doors a.) Glue the three chute assemblies together, ensuring the scribed line on parts E37 are facing the outside (they will be used for alignment of some angle iron shortly).
  • Page 85 b.) Locate the 0.060” L angle styrene strip in the accessories box. Glue the strip along the top of the scribed line on both sides of the chute as shown in the next photo. Once the glue has set using a sharp knife cut the angled styrene even with both ends of the chute (as shown in the photos).
  • Page 86 f.) Set the coal chutes aside for the time being, we’ll get back to them shortly. g.) Locate the three resin casted coal drums in the accessories box. It is very important to note that there are 2 different drums in your kit. Two left hand drums and one right hand drum. They are identified as shown below.
  • Page 87 i.) Once three holes in each drum has been drilled use the 1/32” brass wire and a dab of super glue to insert the brass rod into each hole. The wire that goes into the indent hole (offset from the drum) should be cut at a length of 2 ½”...
  • Page 88 m.) Once the coal door rods have been trimmed to the correct length carefully slip the ends of the coal chute over the rods. This will create the coal chute/coal door assembly and allow the chute to pivot freely. Step 27 Coal Door Rod Support Brackets E30 (6pcs) E31 (6pcs)
  • Page 89 a.) Build the 6 support brackets by placing E31 into E30 to create what is shown below. b.) Mount 4 of these brackets as shown in the photos below: (the hole in the bracket should be on the top).
  • Page 90 c.) Mount one of these brackets as shown in the next photo (underneath the inner slope sheets) inside the cavity of the main tower. d.) Mount the remaining bracket to the opposite side as shown below. Step 28 Mounting the Chain Retainers & Brackets E18 (2pcs) E33 (4pcs) E26 (2pcs)
  • Page 91 b.) Attach both chain retainers to the front wall of the main tower structure, as shown below (note the orientation of these chain retainers! c.) Locate four pieces of part E33 as shown below. d.) These four pieces (E33) are used to direct the chain against the inside of the legs of the coaling tower.
  • Page 92 e.) Finally, there are two chain retainers for the two inside coal chutes (E18). They are mounted in the two horizontal slots directly above the E33 parts you just attached. See below.
  • Page 93 Two pieces of E18 mounted inside the structure, on the two inner slope sheets. Step 29 Sanding Pipe Pulleys E19 (6pcs) E20 (3pcs) H17 (6pcs) H18 (3pcs) a.) Locate the parts E19 and E20 which create the three pulley brackets for the sanding pipes. Assemble a total of 3 pulley brackets as shown below.
  • Page 94 c.) Make a total of 3 pulleys. These pulleys mount in between the side plates of the pulley bracket. Use 1/32” brass rod as the axle and assemble the sanding pipe pulleys like the photo shown below. d.) There is a total of 3 sanding pipe pulleys on the main structure (as shown in the next 3 photos).
  • Page 95 Step 30 Mounting the Coal Drums & Chutes Locate the 3-coal drum door and chute assemblies from step 26. These chutes should now be mounted to the main tower structure. The long rod should be inserted into the single brackets mounted in step 27.
  • Page 96 For the chute on the outside wall, do your best to center the chute between the chain retainers (installed in step 28). Ensuring the 1/32” brass rod is level. Step 31 Mounting the Heavy-Duty Pulleys H12 (4pcs) H15 (8pcs) H17 (6pcs) H18 (3pc) a.) Make four of the large spoked pulleys sing parts H12 and H15.
  • Page 97 Position the small pulley approximately 1/16” away from the bracket, then position the large spoked pulley up against the small pulley. Cut the 1/32” rod even with the side of the large spoked pulley as shown above. e.) The last pulley assembly occurs underneath the middle platform on the front of the main structure.
  • Page 98 Step 2, position a second small pulley as shown above. Then position the large spoked pulley as on the end of the shaft on the right (to the right of the pulley).
  • Page 99 Angled view of the upper pulley rod Step 32 Mounting the Sand Pipe Plumbing Resin Sand Pipe accessories from accessories box (6 pieces molded on sprue) 0.100” Round Styrene from accessories box (2 rods) 0.040” x 0.040” square styrene strip from accessories box (1 piece) a.) Carefully remove the 5 resin molded detail parts from the resin sprue.
  • Page 100 b.) Pay close attention to the ball valves! Two have plates on the tops and one has a hole in the top. The two with the plates on top are mounted to the outside of the main tower assembly. The one with the hole in the top ball is mounted inside the main structure.
  • Page 101 d.) Locate the alignment scribes on the opposite side and mount the remaining ball valve with a top plate between the lines. e.) Locate the remaining ball valve with the hole in the top and glue it inside the main structure as shown in the next photo.
  • Page 102 f.) Mount one of the top sand line covers to the side of the structure as shown in the photo below (mount the cover approximately 3/16” below the angle for the roof. The horizontal position is not imperative, it is your choice where you mount this cover. In the photo below we mounted it closer to the catwalk.
  • Page 103 h.) Locate the 0.100” diameter styrene rods in the accessories box. Carefully place two bends in the rod as shown below. The position of these bends is not critical. NOTE: It is important that the vertical pipes be parallel with the vertical sides of the main tower structure.
  • Page 104 i.) Repeat this process for the opposite side using the other 0.100” diameter styrene rod from the accessories box. j.) Locate the 0.040” x 0.040” styrene strip in the accessories box. Cut 10 pieces of this strip to a length of approximately ¼”. These will be used for standoff spacers on the sand lines. (see below).
  • Page 105 n.) There is no sand delivery pipe to the ball valve inside the main structure. Step 33 Mounting the Hand wheel & Bearing Block Resin cast bearing block (from the sprue the sand pipe accessories were molded to) (1 piece) E48 (1pc) a.) Remove the handwheel bearing block from the resin sprue and file the back down flat.
  • Page 106 c.) Using a 1” length of 1/32” brass rod inserts it into the bearing block with a dab of super glue. d.) Locate the hand wheel (E48) and glue it to the 1/32” brass rod (leave a space of about 1/8” between the bearing block and the hand wheel).
  • Page 107 f.) Glue the bearing block to the leg (positioning the bearing block between the alignment scribes) with the hand wheel facing the right (it will be accessible from the platform we glue in one of the final steps).
  • Page 108 Step 34 Mounting the Ladders and Cages 3 O scale Ladders and Cages in the accessories box 0.040” x 0.040” square rod in the accessories box a.) Locate a total of three cages and cut three sections with four spans of protective railings, one section with three spans of protective railings and one section with a single span of protective railings.
  • Page 109 e.) Once the ladder is painted black use super glue to attach the spacers to the coaling tower main structure as shown in the next photo.
  • Page 110 Ladder / Cage B a.) Cut a ladder to an overall length of 7 ¾” (as shown below). b.) Using a 4-protective railing cage position it on the ladder as shown below. (NOTE: Due to the location of the walkways you will need to glue the ladder to main structure first, then glue the cage to the ladder once the ladder is in position!) c.) Cut ten 0.040”...
  • Page 111 Ladder / Cage C a.) Cut a ladder to an overall length of 7 7/8” as shown below. b.) Attach a 4-protective railing cage to this ladder measured as shown in the next photo. (Glue this cage to the ladder.)
  • Page 112 c.) Cut ten 0.040” x 0.040” spacers approximately ¼” long and equally space them on the backside of the ladder. d.) Position the ladder on the main tower structure as shown in the next photo.
  • Page 113 Ladder / Cage D a.) This final ladder will be comprised of two pieces of the left overs you have from the previous 3 ladders. Cut one ladder to a length of 7 1/16” (It is imperative that the side rails of the ladder be cut at the bottom of the next rung on the ladder.
  • Page 114 b.) Cut another ladder to a length of 1 7/8”. Notice the side rails on the ladder (LH side) are cut even with the rung. c.) The overall length of the spliced ladder will be 9”. d.) Cut eight 0.040” x 0.040” square styrene rods approximately ¼” long to serve as spacers on the backside of the ladder.
  • Page 115 Spliced ladder located here Step 35 Rigging the Chains a.) Locate the cardboard wrap with the scale chain, the cardboard wrap with the fine wire and the baggie with the small beads, all from the accessories box.
  • Page 116 b.) The method for stringing the black beads on the chain is the same for all the chains we will apply to the coaling tower. Insert a small piece of the fine wire into the last ring in the chain, fold it over so it creates a tight180-degree bend at the end of the wire.
  • Page 117 c.) Begin creating the required chains starting with the sanding pipe chains. Cut three lengths of chain approximately 6” long. Thread three beads onto one end of each chain. Space the beads approximately 3/8” apart. d.) Next cut three chains exactly 20” long. These will be used to hold the coal chutes in position. e.) Using a piece of fine wire on one end of the chain thread it through the H-column at the end of the coal chute.
  • Page 118 (Note: fine wire was applied to both ends of the chains (on either side of the coal chute). This will assist in routing the chain through its respective brackets (and adding counterweight beads as well) g.) Starting on the inside of the tower, route each chain through the hole in the upper most bracket on the inner slope wall.
  • Page 119 i.) The chains should hand down, close to the legs. Make any necessary adjustments to position the coal chute, either in the up or down position. You must decide about the position of the coal chute at this point, as you will be gluing the chains in place. j.) Once you are satisfied with the position of the coal chute (ensure the chains to the chute are equally taught, ensure there is no slack between the upper retainer bracket and the lower chain retainers).
  • Page 120 k.) Remove 8 black beads from the baggie and string 4 beads onto each of the two hanging chains. These will imitate the counterweights for the chute. Space the beads approximately 3/8” apart. l.) Repeat this same process for the other interior coal chute on the opposite side of the tower. m.) The rigging for the exterior coal chute is much different from the two interior chutes.
  • Page 121 n.) Cut two additional lengths of chain to 12” long. Thread four black beads onto the middle of the chain, approximately 3/8” apart. Using the fine wire, connect the ends of each chain to create two loops. o.) Place the chain on the large spoked pulleys located on the two interior chute rods. The twisted fine wire should be positioned between the pulley and concrete face of the coaling tower (to disguise / hide the twisted wire)
  • Page 122 The beads (counterweights) should be positioned at the bottom of the chain.
  • Page 123 p.) Using the remaining chain carefully string the chain around the top of the large spoked pulley (connected to the rod with the two small pulleys on the exterior of the structure). The chain drops down and routes around the smaller diameter pulley below it. Glue one end of the chain to the large spoked pulley at top (from the 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock position).
  • Page 124 r.) At this point the chains and counterweights for all the coal chutes should be rigged, as well as the handwheel chain. The overall rigging should look like the next photo.
  • Page 125 Step 36 Mounting the Sanding Pipes a.) Locate the 3 sanding pipe resin castings from the accessories box. b.) Drill a 1/16” hole in the flat bracket molded on the top of the pipe. c.) Locate the chains you created at the beginning of the previous section (step 35). The chains route over top of the pulleys as shown in the next photo.
  • Page 127 Step 37 Rigging the Bucket & Counterweight A17 (1pc) Resin Cast Concrete counterweight (in the accessories box) a.) Locate the resin cast concrete counterweight in the Accessories box. Begin by drilling two 1/32” holes in the top of the counterweight (there are dimples in the top of the weight to mark where the holes should be drilled).
  • Page 128 b.) Using the 1/32” brass wire carefully bend a small length to match the shape shown below. Use a dab of super glue to hold the wire in the resin counterweight. c.) Refer to the complimentary painting video to paint & weather the counterweight before applying it the model.
  • Page 129 e.) Using super glue attach the counterweight to the back side of the main tower structure underneath the buck track supports (against the concrete face of the tower). Ensure it is centered between the supports for the bucket rails. f.) Locate a piece A17. This will be used to hold the string inside the top tower. Route the black string (from the accessories box) through the two holes as shown in the photo below.
  • Page 130 Part A17 Counterweight Bucket To Hoist House Opening (NOTE: Bucket rails & supports omitted for clarity) j.) The coal bucket should fit snugly in between the rails / tracks and should be require glue. However, a couple dabs of super glue will ensure the string stay taut and has no slack in it. k.) The next photo illustrates what the rigging looks like when it is completed.
  • Page 131 Step 38 Windows and Doors G5 Single Man Door Frame (3pcs) G3 Single Man Door (3pcs) K1 Window for Man Door (3pcs) E10 Door panel insert (3pcs) G1 (or G10) Window (4pcs) G2 (or G11) Window Frame (4pcs) K3 Window Glass (4pcs) a.) Assemble the doors and windows in the same method as step 16 for the hoist house.
  • Page 132 Step 39 Top Tower Roof a.) Locate Top Tower Roof halves, from the mitered roof components. Using the same methodology as we did with the hopper shed and hoist house tape the two halves together and glue them to the peaks on the top tower. b.) NOTE: It would be a good idea to paint the underside of the eaves before gluing the roof to the top of the tower! This will prevent you from having to mask this later.
  • Page 133 Step 40 Electrical Covers E34 (no exterior lamps) (6pcs) E35 (with exterior lamps) (6pcs) a.) If you are not planning on installing exterior lamps over top of the doors on the structure use parts E34 to cover the holes located above the doors (3 on the main coaling tower, one on the sand house and two on the hoist house).
  • Page 134 Step 41 Routing the Sand House Vacuum Line Clear Vinyl Tube (from the accessories box) 18-gauge multi conductor wire (from the accessories box 5/8” nylon washer (from the accessories box) a.) The multiconductor electrical wire is provided to keep the vinyl tubing in position. It inserts inside the vinyl tubing and will retain its shape once formed in the desired position.
  • Page 136 NOTE: There is about 5-8” of extra vinyl tubing supplied with this kit. Do not be afraid to cut some of the tubing to create the length and look you feel is right for your model. Do not cut the wire though, just stick it into the hole and let it hang inside both structures.
  • Page 137 Step 42 Coal Bucket Pit Safety Railing G4 (2pcs) F16 (1pc) F17 (1pc) a.) The final handrail assembly goes around the base of the bucket rails (to protect workers from falling into the pit!). The railing is designed to fit over top of the foundation. It must be glued...
  • Page 138 once the coaling tower is mounted in its final resting place on the layout. We recommend you paint the railing a safety color, such as yellow or white. The assembly of this handrail is shown below.
  • Page 139 Step 43 Foundations for Sand House & Hoist House A16 (1pc) C2 (1pc) Eyelet with wood threads (accessories box) a.) A16 is the foundation for the Hoist House. See the complimentary painting video for instructions on how to paint and weather. Glue the Hoist House foundation to the table surface (or screw it in place using some small wood screws).
  • Page 140 Step 44 “Planting” the Coaling Tower Components Refer to the footprint schematic at the end of this manual for details on where to place the components of this kit. We recommend you paint a black rectangle underneath the coal bucket and bucket track (in between the safety railings) to simulate the pit that the bucket drops into to scoop up coal to deliver up to the top of the tower.