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Singer Memo-Matic 322 Instruction Book
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Singer Memo-Matic 322 Instruction Book

Singer Memo-Matic 322 Instruction Book

Automatic punchcard knitter, with automatic motif-maker
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INSTRUCTION BOOK
Memo- Ma tic*
automatic punchcard knitter by
SINGER
Model 322-323
with automatic
Motif-Maker

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Summary of Contents for Singer Memo-Matic 322

  • Page 1 INSTRUCTION BOOK Memo- Ma tic* automatic punchcard knitter by SINGER Model 322-323 with automatic Motif-Maker...
  • Page 2 Congratulations on Your Purchase of the New Knitting Machine MOD. 322-323 Before you start to knit on your Knitting Machine MOD. 322-323, we recommend that you carefully read this instruction book. By using these "Easy to Follow" directions you will be able to take full advantage of the excellent performance of your machine.
  • Page 3 Names and function of component parts Tuck stitch pattern in colours ..39 Accessories Slip stitch pattern ....42 Carriage Slip stitch pattern in colours ..45 Main body of machine Knit-in (Fair Isle) ....48 1. Assembling procedure... . . 1 Single motif ....
  • Page 4 ..•• p� ® � )� � ® ® � Extra round brush ..... Used for tuck knitting. (D One-point cam ....Used for single motif. (2) Plate cam ......Placed on the needle bed behind the needle butt ® Card snaps ......Used to join both ends of the punched card. to cover the range, diamond to diamond, where @ Oil container ......
  • Page 5 * CARRIAGE* Row Counter Lever Memory Bank A lever for advancing the row counter. The memory bank is installed inside the carri age cover. Side Lever The si de levers have two positions. I For moving the carriage without kni tti ng . .&...
  • Page 8 (3) Remo ve the accesso ry box. (4) Take the clamps from the accesso ry box and insert into the slit on the underside of the machine to secure it to the table. Rubber feet are provided underneath the machine so it will not slide on the tab.
  • Page 10 ( 13) Install the auto-tension in the order indi­ cated in the diagram. The auto-tension rod can be installed on either side of the case handle. By using an additional auto-tension complete (sold sepa­ rately) you can knit four different yarns at a time.
  • Page 12 Be sure the yarn passes under the copper _ colored guide pin. (3) Turn the auto-tension dial to set the nu­ merals to the ► shaped cut according to the thickness of the yarn to be knitted. With any kind of yarn, adjust the tension dial so the tension spring will keep the dis­tance (A-space) in 10-20cm (4 to 8 inches).
  • Page 14 '�(. � ( 1 ) Set the stop knob and each part on the Stop knob Side lever s (right and left) carriage as follows. Stop knob ..• Cam lever ..STOCKI NET Stitch dial ..7 (for 4 ply wool of medium thickness) Side levers ..
  • Page 15 (4) Threading the yarn feeder (D. Hold the yarn with both hands as illustrated, and slip it in to the slit in front of the yarn feeder at the right side of the pin. Next, pass the upper part of the yarn under the yarn guide and hold it lightly at the upper part of the yarn feeder.
  • Page 16 * At this time, the yarn which is threaded , 1- through the yarn feeder should have tension on it. If it is loose, pull it from the back through the auto-tension to give it a proper tension. How to unthread * To unthread the yarn, unlock the upper part of the yarn by passing it under the yarn guide, then pull it downward...
  • Page 17 (5) Move t�e carriage slowly to the left and the y_ a rn will be hooked by the needles and sinker posts alternately. . * I f th i · s pulled t igh t at the last Note· e yarn yarn from feeder...
  • Page 19 The Relation between the stit ch dial and yarns ( 11) The stitch dial is used to change the size of the stitches. It is adjusted by setting the dial number to the .& mark at the center. The numerals on the dial are so arranged that the higher the numeral, the larger the stitch, and the lower the numeral the smaller the stitch.
  • Page 21 (2) Take the heel of the second stitch and place it onto the empty second needle. (3) Increasing two or more stitches at the edge. * This method should be practised on the side with the carriage. (1) Bring the required number of needles to D position.
  • Page 22 { 5 }' Decreasing two or more stitches at the edge. * This method is used for sha ping the ba se of armholes, neck opening, etc. ( 1) Push the needles forwa rd until the stitch is behind the la tch. (C position) Threa d the ya rn through the hook and after pushing ba ck the needle, knit one stitch.
  • Page 26 (4) Push the desired number of needles which have been resting in D position, back to C position and knit the third row. (5) When the needles are pushed back to C po­sition, be sure they are correctly positioned within the range marked by the sign 1 ).
  • Page 27 � *Finishing* (8) How to remove the garment from the machine. * After knitting is completed, knit 8-10 rows usiAg scrap yarn. Remove the yarn from the yarn feeder and move the carriage across. (Be sure the cam lever is set at "STOCKI­ NET".) Note: Hold the yarn away from the carriage when it is moved across to prevent en­...
  • Page 28 {IO} Winding Method. When the garment is completed, measure the yarn across the garment 3 times and cut it. Thread the tapestry needle with the.yarn. (It is easier to weave with the carriage on the left side if you are right handed).
  • Page 29 {11} Binding off Pl Ribbing. The knitting should be completed with the carriage on the left side for easier work. Cut the yarn with the end 2½ times the width of the garment on the machine. Take the stit­ ches off on a hand knitting needle. Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn.
  • Page 30 {12} -24- How to join the garments. Kitchner stitch or weaving* { 1) Remove both pieces from machine after knit- ting 8-10 rows of waste knitting. Hold the two pieces in the left hand with right sides facing each other. Insert the threaded tapestry needle into the first stitch on the piece facing you from the outside.
  • Page 31 {13) Seaming the side edges. Thread a tapestry needle with the yarn 1.5 or 2 times the length of the seam. * Mattress stitches (Blind stitches) The side edges can be seamed neatly without showing the seam. This method is especially recommended for seaming stockinet and Fair Isle.
  • Page 33 (7} Hemming a garment. A double hem is often used for the lower edge and cuffs of ladies' and chldren's wear. (1) After knitting 8-10rows of waste knitting, knit one row with a nylon ravel cord. (2) Tighten the tension dial 2/3 (2 points) from the number used for the garment.
  • Page 34 (8) Mock Ribbing. Mock ribbing is very easy to knit and makes a nice hem. It is especially recommended for cuffs and waist bands for child and sports wear. (1) Bring the required number of needles to B position, using a 1 x 1 needle pusher, push every other needle back to A position.
  • Page 35 * The twen ty punc hed cards (each repre sent­ ing a diffe rent patte rn) that come with the knitt ing mach ine have a seria l num ber begin ­ ning with No. 1 throu gh 20 and alpha betic al mark ings A, B, C and D respe ctive ly.
  • Page 36 The Relation between the • • • • • • • • •• •• • • • • • • • • • • •• Pattern Marks on the Needle •• • • • • • • • •• • • •...
  • Page 37 Installing the Card Guide* * Insert the ca rd guide vertica lly a s illustrated Card guide ___ - into the receiving hole in center of the case behind the pa ttern panel. Ca rd guide Pattern panel How to set the Punched Card* (1) Set the stop knob to �...
  • Page 38 How to Read the Operation Table The operation table is di vided into two secti ons, line O and line@. Li ne O is the preparatory step to memorize the pattern in the memory bank. The actual pattern knitting begins with line @. The yarn feeder is divided into two sections, each indicated by <D and ®·...
  • Page 40 > < CARD No. I 2-A TUCK(Solid) Tuck stitches are formed by knitting together the yarn crossed over the needle and loops below which are pulled up by the needle selection. * Attach the accessory weights on both edges of the knitting piece. * Install the separators on both outsides of the knitting needles as instructed on page 52.
  • Page 43 TUCK (Solid) <11> A= Light blue 1 Pat.= 4 sts, 4 rows. > > < TUCK(Resting Needles)< 2 TUCK(Resting Needles) CARD No. 3-A CARD No. 4-A 1 Pat.= 4 sts, 8 rows. A= Red brown A= Mustard 1 Pat.= 6 sts, 4 rows. (N.
  • Page 45 - � -...: 1 � � < I> CARD No. I 2-A TUCK(Colours) Let's learn pattern knitting using two colours. * Attach the accessory weights to both ends of the knitted piece. * Install the extra round brushes on the back A= Blue l Pat.= 12 sts, 24 rows.
  • Page 46 * As the yarn in the yarn feeder is to be changed at the mentioned row, rest the yarn (color B ) as illustrated at the end of the needle bed. B e sure the two yarns do not become entangled with each other. Also be sure the yarn is threaded correctly through JJJJIJJJJJJJ!IJIJ the yarn feeder to prevent it from coming...
  • Page 47 < > CARD No.4-A TUCK(Colours) A- = White l Pat.= 2 sis, 4 rows. A= White l Pat.= 4 sis, 4 rows. Green e= Brown > < < > CA RD No.3-A CARD No. I 2-A TUCK (Appli) TUCK(Colours) .•. ,! -!_'•...
  • Page 48 < > SLIP STITCH(Solid) CARD No. 18-A Slip stitch patterns are formed by the yarns ·- < crossing at the back of the loops which were not "· - knitted and pulled up by needle selection. * Attach the accessory weights to both ends of the knitted piece.
  • Page 49 < > < > SLIP STITCH(Solid) CARD No.8- A CARD No. I 0-A SLIP STITCH(Solid) Pink 1 Pat.= 3 sts, 18 rows. A= Yellow Pat. 12 sts, 20 rows. < > < > SLIP STITCH(Solid) CARD No.9-A CARD No. 1-A SLIP STITCH(Solid) A= Light blue A= Grey...
  • Page 50 < > < > CARD No.3- A SLIP STITCH(Solid) CARD No. 11-A SLIP STITCH(Solid) Brown Yellow l Pat.= 4 sts, 8 rows. l Pat.= 8 sts, 24 rows. SLIP STITCH(Solid) <1D> CARD No. I 2-A l Pat.= 12 sts, 24 rows. Yellow -44-...
  • Page 51 q 1€ < > SLIP STITCH(Colours) CARD No. I 8-A * Let's practice the slip stitch patterns using two colours. * Knit, changing the yarn in the yarn feeder as for coloured tuck knitting. * Attach the accessory weights to both ends of the knitted piece.
  • Page 52 > > CARD No. 12-A SLIP STITCH (Colours)< 2 SLIP STITCH (Colours) < 3 CARD No. 3-A � . A= White 1 Pat.= 12 sts. 24 rows. 1 Pat.= 4 sts, 8 rows. A= Light blue B= Red B= Brown <...
  • Page 53 -47- === l* - -l * > > SLIP STITCH (Colours)< 8 CARD No.8-A CARD No. I I -A SLIP STITCH (Colours)< 9 A = Red 1 Pat.= 8 sts, 24 rows. A= light blue Pat.= 8 sts, 24 rows. White White Blue...
  • Page 54 V" Y" ..-r?">. ·--_,.,; • :,..�-v;..; v ,..._ < > FAIR ISLE CARD No. 20-A • In Fair Isle knitting, two yarns of different colours are knitted simultaneously at one op­ eration. • The two yarns are threaded through yarn feeder (D and �...
  • Page 55 > CARD No.4- A FAIR ISLE < 2 White Light blue l Pat.= 4 sts, 4 rows. l Pat.= 12 sts, 24 rows. B= Red Light blue > FAIR ISLE <4> CARD No.9-A CARD No. I-A FAIR ISLE< 5 Light blue Green l Pat.= 12 sts, 24 rows.
  • Page 57 < > FAIR CARD No.8-A ISLE(Appli.) A= White Pat.= 3 sis, 18 rows. · B= Navy blue C= Light blue SIDE DIR. RUSSEL YARN CAM LEV. STOP C A R[ (NO. RS.) LEV. LEV. KNOB MEM. • F. I (BOTH) F.

  • Page 58: Single Motif

    > < CARD No. 19..:A SINGLE MOTIF * I n Single Motif, a single pattern in fair isle ( Knit-in) can be knit in any position desired. I t is also used in vertical line patterns. This type of knitting is a practical application for fair isle knitting using punch cards.
  • Page 59 * Place the plate cam on the needle bed and behind the needle butts of the selected pat­ tern portion of the knitting needles, the plate cam must be positioned between two o marks on the needle bed in order to cor­rectly complete a full motif_ "...
  • Page 60 * When the single motif pattern is positioned too far from the center of the garment, or the complete knitting width is very wide, the tension may be insufficient to eliminate yarn slack. It is therefore recommended to knit within a range of 150 stitches to the center of the needle bed.
  • Page 61 <I> CARD No. I 4-A WEAVING * · This is the method in which a fancy yarn, or thicker or bulky yarn is knitted into the fabric bringing the pattern to the wrong side of the garment and giving it a weaving effect. In this case, a medium size yarn is used for main knitting and a thicker yarn for weaving.
  • Page 62 (5) Change the setting of the carriage as instruc­ted in line 8 of the operation table. BIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII (6) To prevent the knitted patterns from being shaped wrong, bring the end needle nearest the carriage to D position and knit one row. (7) Repeat operations in (6).
  • Page 64 CARD No. 7-A A= Grey I Pat. = 4 sts, 8 rows. A= White I Pat.= 2 sts, 4 rows B= Green > > CARD No. 3-A WEAVING(RestingNeedles)< 2 CARD No. 4-A WEAVING(Resting Needles) < 1 �. A= Blue I Pat.= 8 sts, 4 rows. A= Yellow {N.

  • Page 66: Punch Lace

    < > CARD No. I 5-A PUNCH LACE Punch lace is a unique feature of this ma­ chines. By using a fine transparent nylon thread and wool or synthetic yarns.together, beautiful lace garments which have never been designed can be created. * Attach the accessory weights to both ends of the knitted piece.·...
  • Page 67 (3) Change the setting of the carriage as in­ structed in line @ of the operation table. (4) Thread the nylon thread through the yarn .BI I I I I I II I I I I I I I feeder ® (Be sure it is at the left side of the ◄...
  • Page 69 < > LACE KNITTING CARD No. I-A This is an open work knitted with thin cotton yarn, summer yarns or very fine wool. By using the technique of resting needles and tucking stitches, delicate lacy fabric can be knitted very easily.
  • Page 70 After needle arrangement is completed, pat­tern knitting can begin. Change the setting of the car r iage as instructed in line of the operation table and continue B I iii I I I ► knitting. TUCK The patterns on the next page are knitted in the same manner.
  • Page 71 10 l:illll:11: ! .111lfl 9 � * PATTERN STITCHES WITHOUT USING PATTERN CARD* r-- h -H- H-tt I I I 11 I .L4+9.i�Qi 01 ..1.. I II I I I I 1...- � �?- 1 - H -H � � J I.I.
  • Page 72 onto the empty needles. (5) Pull these 6 needles to D position and knit 6 rows. (6) Repeat the above procedure crossing the stitches in the same direction. After three or four patterns hav� been worked, purl one stitch on each side beg inning at the bottom stitch.
  • Page 73 ,-'6 ( 1) For ribbing, use the tension dial one number smaller than in stockinet. (2) Work the same number of rows for ribbing in stockinet. Bring the third needle from the left-hand side to D position. Then by pushing it back to B position, the stitch will drop.
  • Page 74 - - - - - - (1) Set th e tension dial one number lower than in stockinet. (2) Knit 2 rows. (3) Open the latch of all the needles and purl all the stitches of the last row using a tap­ pet.
  • Page 75 ( 1) Knit two rows in stockinet. (2) Referring to the knitting symbols of the dia­ gram , droo the stitch m arked with (-} and purl them with a tappet one by one. (3) Repeat the procedure ( 1) and (2). -69-...
  • Page 76 * Knitted cords are often used for bands capes hoods, etc. (1) Place the carriage on the right side of the needle bed. D epending upon the thickness of the cord, bring 3-5 needles to D position. Cast on the stitches by the wrapping method as illustrated.
  • Page 77 If the carriage has jammed while knitting. * If the carriage jammed while knitting, follow the instructions mentioned below, do not move it by force. Loosen the arm nuts and pull the arm to­ ( 1) wards you. (2) By lifting the handle backward the center part of the carriage will be rarsed.
  • Page 78 - <2 In pattern knitting. > This machine memorizes the pattern which you desire from the punched cards. Slide the Stop knob ..• carriage across the needle bed once and the Cam lever ..Slip pattern is imprinted in the memory bank. Side levers ..
  • Page 79 Relation between Touch levers and patterns in each from of Knitting. � Perforated area of punch- Unperforated· area of punched card ed card (Touch lever ris- (Touch lever lowers). Needle goes back �s) Needle comes out Tucked Tuck stitch Knit (Non-knitting, yarn is over the hookl Slipped...
  • Page 80 How to Correct a Dropped Stitch While Knitting. 1. Correcting a dropped stitch. ( 1) Insert a one eye transfer tool into the stitch below the dropped stitch, and replace the stitch into the hook of the needle together with the loose yarn. (2) Slowly pul l the needl e out until the stitch is behind the open latch leaving the loose yarn in the hook.
  • Page 81 Replacing damaged needles* When replacing damaged needles, follow the steps below. (1) Push the needle retainer under the needle b ed in either direction using a pencil or a screw driver. Try to push upward along the needle bed when pushing it out. (2) Pull the needle retainer at one end until it clears the needle.
  • Page 82 If the yarn is entangled in the "Memory Bank". (1) If the yarn is en tang led on the gear wheel of the "Memory Bank" shift the carriage to the side of the machine as illustrated. (2) Carefully disentangle the yarn using a tappet. If the carriage.
  • Page 83 (1) Remove the punched card from the pattern panel while turning the feed dial. (2) Special care should be taken not to make a crease on the punched card. (2) R eplace all the accessories in the accessory box in an orderly manner as they were origi­ nally packed.
  • Page 84 (5) Place the accessory box on the right-hand side of the needle bed 2-3 cm (3/4-1 ") from the end. (6) Replace the cover. (7) Fasten the latches. (8) Store the well cleaned machine in a dry �- .." j •...
  • Page 85 The Knit-Contour can definitely assist you when you knit and knitting will be easier and more pleasant. {For Model SK-323, Knit-Contour, Pattern Paper, and Stitch Scales are not included.) * NAMES OF COMPONENT PARTS AND THEIR OPERATION* Paper Holder: Change Dial: When you are going to knit at gauge rows above 60, set this dial to Holds Pattern Paper against the 60-120, and when the gauge rows are belo w 60, set this dial to...
  • Page 86 * How to measure a Stitch Gauge* Knit a tension swatch to calculate the num­ ber of stitches and rows. For a swatch cast on 60 stitches and knit about 80 rows using the yarn and the kind of stitches for the gar­ ment.
  • Page 87 Wlll!ll/l/ I/II/Ill! Ill !l I II f I I I I I I I I Ill I I I I\\\\\ I I I I I\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\� (5) Knit another 30 rows in the same manner. (6) Knit 2 rows with the distinguishable yarn. (7) Unthread the yarn and knit 20 rows with knitting yarn.
  • Page 88 How to set Stitch Scale (1) Select the stitch scale with the number equal to the number of stitches counted on the swatch. (2) Open the paper holder toward you. (3) Insert the stitch scale into the clip so as it is facing you.
  • Page 89 (2) Next, adjust the number of gauge rows to the red arrow in the row number window by turning the row number dial. The row numbers are indicated in two rows. Be sure to read the row corresponding to the 30-60 or 60-120 depending on the row count on your gauge.
  • Page 90 (2) Insert the pattern paper into Knit-Contour. (3) The pattern paper must be inserted so that the title . w ill appear on the top part of the paper. ( 1) Open the pattern paper holder. (2) Change the paper lever position from .,, to •...
  • Page 91 (5) Return the Pattern Paper by turning the Feeding Dial until the Starting Line for knit­ ting will come under the upper edge of the Stitch Scale. Now the knit contour is ready for starting knitting. Preparatory Steps for Knitting. (1) Determine the number of stitches required for starting knitting by your Stitch Scale.
  • Page 92 (3) After cast-on and waste knitting (refer to page 14) . set the Change Dial as follows: When the gauge row is within the range of: 30-60 ..30. 60 60-120 ..60. 120 Remark: For waste knitting, set the C hange Dial to .,, mark.
  • Page 93 Knit your own work using the knit contour. The numbers in the positions of increase and decrease are identical with the numbers in "Fundamental techniques of knitting" In knitting, check these numbers with each other. *Pullover* First of all, take gauge referring to page 82 to determine the number of stitches and rows per 10 cm.
  • Page 94 {2) Front Knit in the same manner as for the back as illustrated. (3} Sleeve (1) Set the pattern paper adjusting the starting line for knitting. Knit ribbed part by using < the ribbing attachment. Knit sleeve increas- < ing stitches as instructed on page 14. FRONT (2) Knit the sleeve cap by the methods on page 15 when decreasing more than two �titches...
  • Page 95 * Knit children's pullovers in the same way. Shoulder seam Ease the sleeve Both sides evenly Man's Cardigan Under arm Sleeve side rather tightly Wrong side of Bodice Back. Knit i n the same way as for a pullover. (2} Front (1) Front is knitted i n two pieces.
  • Page 97 .{ 1·} Lady's Sleeveless Pullover* 1) Front and Back. (1) Set the Pattern Paper adjusting the Starting Line for knitting to the Stitch Scale. (2) Knit back and front working decreases and increases along the crossing points of the contour lines and the Stitch scale. (refer to the paragraph "Pullover") (2) Finish (1) Join both shoulders on machine.
  • Page 98 * Lady's Skirt* (1) Back & Front of Skirt. Knit two pieces of the same pattern for the front and back. (1) Set the Pattern Paper adjusting the starting line for knitting to Stitch Scale. (2) Knit the facing of lower edge at stitch dial tightened by½...
  • Page 99 LADY'S BEDROOM SLIPPERS· Materials: 4 ply wool of medium thickness ... 2oz. Elastic ..20 ins. (51 cm) Stitch dial: Around 5 Gauge: 1 in. (2.54 cm) = 8 stitches, 11 rows (4 ins. (10cm) square= 32 stitches, 44 rows) (1) Bring out 120 needles (60 needles on each side of 0) to B position.
  • Page 100 (10) Seam instep and hem leaving an opening for elastic on the wrong side. (11) Sew approximately 3/4 in. ( 1.8 cm) of the heel portion from the wrong side. Fold over Wrong side 3/4 . (2 cm) and sew down to the sole side. (12) Pull the elastic through the hem.
  • Page 101 KNITTING SYMBOLS The following set of sy mbols has been adopted to help y ou understand y our patterns at a glance and to save countless lines of description on each stitch. TUCK STITCH LEAN STITCH KNIT STITCH LEFT A few loops on marked rows Face loop of stockinet pulled up onto one needle Transfer the stitch to the left...
  • Page 102 • • A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY S.�2/323(El'...

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Memo-matic 323