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Din Sync RE-101 Manual

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Thanks for purchasing the RE-101 case kit. It's quite straightforward to assemble but some due
care and attention must be taken. Please read through all of this document before proceeding,
it'll help it make sense.
First and foremost, the production of the enclosure has been quite challenging. This is due to
the design of the SH-101 boards themselves and maintaining compatibility in the RE-101. What
this means is that all boards are mounted on the "ceiling" of the enclosure, not a problem on the
original moulded plastic but challenging to recreate these mounts on a 2mm aluminium panel.
Standoffs in the first production prototypes were quite weak. After consultation with the factory
we tried anodizing the standoffs when colouring the panels and the result was great, invisible
standoffs (no marks on the front panel) in 2mm with decent strength. I say decent because, they
aren't strong per se since thin aluminium is already "weak" Anyway as you will see in the
manual it's recommended to use threadlock and finger tight for the standoffs, this combination
makes a very robust and strong solution. In some cases, some standoffs missed anodizing and
have been factory fixed with epoxy. If you find a loose standoff or break one you can use a small
amount of epoxy to repair it, don't get it on the threads (if you do, fit the relevant standoff before
it dries)
The point here is that with the large amount of standoffs and the difficulty in the manufacturing
process, it's inevitable that some may need field repairs, epoxy is your saviour.
Tools you will need
Torx screwdriver for the case and bender screws
Phillips screwdriver for the m3 screws
Small pliers for the m3 nuts
Thread lock for the standoffs
Cable ties for cable management
Optional
Midi jacks, see the goblin cpu manual for details of wiring
If fitting a bender then you'll need generic coupling housings, (crimp) 2x male and 2x female to
make the connections between the bender pcbs. Same as these links below, these are generic
components and you should be able to find them at your usual vendors.
https://www.reichelt.com/se/en/shop/product/print_connector_single_connector_angled_6-pin-2
17631
https://www.reichelt.com/se/en/shop/product/empty_coupling_housing_crimp_technology_6-pin-
147625

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Summary of Contents for Din Sync RE-101

  • Page 1 Thanks for purchasing the RE-101 case kit. It’s quite straightforward to assemble but some due care and attention must be taken. Please read through all of this document before proceeding, it’ll help it make sense. First and foremost, the production of the enclosure has been quite challenging. This is due to the design of the SH-101 boards themselves and maintaining compatibility in the RE-101.
  • Page 2 BASE FIT WEDGE FIRST! Take the base, and place it with the midi jacks away from you to the left, then carefully remove the red backing tape for the gel on the base pad and place this firmly into the top right corner. This will later form, via downward pressure into part of the vertical pcb support.
  • Page 3 In some of these examples the panel is placed on a piece of foam. If you have some masking tape you can place this on the edges of the base and use this as a worktop while working on the panel, very handy with the controls of course and when fitting the LEDs.

  • Page 4: Let's Get Started

    LET'S GET STARTED Each section of the synth has a corresponding hardware bag for panel fitment. They are as follows Synth M3 screw x 7 18mm F/F standoff x 7 10mm M/F standoff x 7 Washer x 7 Control M3 nut x 14 Washer x 14 17mm M/F standoff x14 Sequencer...
  • Page 5 First mark these seven standoffs Begin by marking these seven standoffs for the synth layer with a marker pen, this will really help later!
  • Page 6 Add a small drop of thread lock to the standoff and then place the 18mm (silver F/F) standoff from the synth bag, screw it down finger tight only (no need to clamp it down, it’s not a car wheel). Repeat on all the rest of the marked standoffs.
  • Page 7 Now you can add the seven brass M/F standoffs as so. Add thread lock to these and then finger tight only. Other layer (control / bender) Add the control board standoffs, again use thread lock and finger tight.
  • Page 8 Add the brass standoffs from the bender bag, again use thread lock and finger tight. Fit the four 8mm standoffs from the sequencer bag. You know what to do, thread lock and finger tight, but perhaps a little less is needed here.
  • Page 9 Fit the ten 8mm M/F standoffs to the mini key section, again threadlock bla bla ;) Now take a short break, have a cup of tea or something while the threadlock dries a little.
  • Page 10 JACK BOARD RISER First place your jack board, it’ll take a little wiggle then slot in. (Sorry in our example pic we don’t have all the jacks fitted) Then we need to fit the blue printed guides. These alone are not what is supporting the pcb, they simply hold it vertically in place so that it stands correctly in conjunction with the pad which is compressed when you first fit the case screws.
  • Page 11 Place the blue guides as shown. The guides in our pictures are prototype and will look slightly different to what you have but placement is identical.
  • Page 12 Connect the blue guides to the pcb with 3x m3 nuts and screws.
  • Page 13 Now secure the blue guides to the panel with the 3 dome nuts, don't over tighten them!
  • Page 14 LEDS If you have already fitted your LEDs then you should remove them and clean up the holes so that a new LED can be fitted that can move easily for height adjustment. Don’t worry, we included a new set of LEDs ;-) read below before you rush off and do anything. Since the panel is cnc milled then we can’t get a sharp corner on a slot hole.
  • Page 15 Things start to get more straight forward from here Place the control panel, it fits over the tall synth standoffs Place the synth and mini key, m3 screws for the synth and m3 nuts for the minikey. Washers for both! Two notes about the mini key, sometimes some of the black and white caps can sit loose on the switches, not a problem when its assembled but can be annoying if you hold it upside down and they fall off (you have been warned heh) The other point is that since there are a lot of keys you...
  • Page 16 Dome nuts for the sequencer board, no washers. Fit the silver caps to the tact switches. Nuts and washers for the bender board, if you have them fit the dust protectors for the large switches.
  • Page 17 Of course your boards will be built, these unpopulated boards are just for clarity. You can now fit the 3.5mm “vanity” jacks, they don’t currently do anything and actually can't be used for the mini bender as this requires one of the jack shields to not be connected to ground which obviously doesn't work well on a metal panel.
  • Page 18 BENDER ASSEMBLY (CAN WE IKEA THIS?) Notice the lack of headers, what do you mean you don’t have any, you could do it with wires but then you can’t remove it later, it’s a solution i guess ;-P Buy some headers and come back, there's links on the intro page to what we need here. (who reads manuals anyway).
  • Page 19 make sure you fit this board correctly, check three times before soldering ;-)
  • Page 20 Now fit to the mount as below.
  • Page 21 Place the spring on the joystick, so that it sits as so. Now place the joystick on the mount so that the spring retainers align and close the gap fully making sure that the spring legs are outside of both retainers.
  • Page 22 It should look like this, don’t tighten the black screw yet Now using a flat head screwdriver rotate the shaft fully counterclockwise, and then hold the joystick in the centre and turn it clockwise until the line marker is aligned with the notch. Gently tighten the black screw but not fully as we need to calibrate the bender.
  • Page 23 You need to make a cable like this, only 4 wires are used but if you had 6 it's no problem as long as pin1 goes to pin1 on each end. The header orientation should be like this, connect up the bender.
  • Page 24 Calibration is quite simple, you just need to set the centre point of the potentiometer in relation to the joystick. Calibrate your bender centre position Power on the machine, press the hold button and any key on the keyboard, turn off any modulations, open the filter so you can hear a steady tone from the VCO.
  • Page 25 Your machine, if built, likely looks a lot like this now. Use a few cable ties to tidy it up a bit. Remember there is limited depth in the base! Now we will close the case for the first time, this has to be done fully vertically and not angled like this as you can see the pad is under the jack board assembly.
  • Page 26 Gently place the panel down on the base, making sure there are no snagged cables, it will not close fully yet because of the pad. Just place the 6 black screws, you know the ones you lost when you opened the case ;-). Now gently push in the centre and tighten the screws, not fully but until they reach the panel.
  • Page 27 Again on the bender side, not tight just to the panel. Now again on the jack board side,this will now be starting to compress the pad.
  • Page 28 Now repeat the last three steps gently tightening the screws until the panel fits tight and the pad is fully compressed. And so now you are pretty much ready to go, just fit the fader caps and knobs. Happy acids!