1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Austin Manuals
  4. Music Pedal
  5. AUSTINDRIVE
  6. Assembly manual

Austin AustinDrive Assembly Manual

Hide thumbs Also See for AustinDrive:

Advertisement

Table of Contents

AustinDrive
Illustrated Assembly Guide

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the AustinDrive and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for Austin AustinDrive

Summary of Contents for Austin AustinDrive

  • Page 1 AustinDrive Illustrated Assembly Guide...

  • Page 2: Pcb Assembly

    PCB Assembly • Solder the Sockets to the PCB • Bend and Solder the Components to the PCB • Install the Pots and LED on the back...
  • Page 3 FRONT BACK...
  • Page 4 Schematic...
  • Page 5 Install FOUR Sockets These hold the amplifier chip, and allow you to change the tone components easily. Each socket has a “U” shaped notch. Align the notch in the socket with the notch printed on the circuit board. Install, and bend the corner pins over to keep the sockets from falling out! Solder all 32 pins.
  • Page 6 D1 Diode 1N5819 This diode protects the circuit from reverse power. Pinch the diode body with your fingers, and bend the legs down. Match the silver stripe on the diode with the stripe on the circuit board.
  • Page 7 FIVE, 1 MEG Resistors: R4, plus: R1, R2, R8, R9 R1 reduces footswitch “pop.” R2 sets the input level of the first stage. R4 limits the gain of the first stage. R8 & R9 divide the power voltage in half, to be the center (“BIAS”) voltage. Bend the resistors as shown, with one leg bent-over along the body.
  • Page 8 10K – R3, R10 R10 limits the brightness of the LED R3 sets the level of the input buffer. Bend the resistors as shown, with one leg bent-over along the body. (NOTE: It does not matter which leg is bent-over.) The body of the resistor goes in the hole with the circle.
  • Page 9 47 Ohm 1/4W – R7 This resistor is bigger than the others because it needs to handle more power (heat.) R7 reduces power supply noise by drawing more power from the power supply. 100K – R5 Helps define the gain of the 3 amplifying stage.
  • Page 10 0.1uF (104) – C1, C2, C3, C4 These capacitors have “104” stamped on them These capacitors are not “polarized.” They can go in forwards or backwards. Each blocks DC “offset” voltage from leaking into the next gain stage. They are called “Coupling Capacitors” because each one connects one part of the circuit to the next part.
  • Page 11 Electrolytic Capacitors 10uF – C7 (Red Oval) 100uF – C5 (Blue Oval) 47uF – C6 (Black Oval) Hold each capacitor in your RIGHT hand with the stripe facing you, and bend the legs UP. These capacitors smooth the DC power supply and reduce noise.
  • Page 12 2N3904 – Q1 This is the buffer amplifier for the pedal, and it reduces high-frequency loss. The transistor has one flat face. Bend the center leg slightly backwards, away from the flat face. Orient the transistor as shown on the screen print on the board, and solder slightly above the board as shown below.
  • Page 13 Back Side of Board C250K FIRST: Break-off B250K this tab → Values are marked here → LED & Spacer Slide the spacer onto the legs of the LED, before soldering the LED to the board. Short leg goes to square hole These potentiometers (“pots”) give user adjustments for drive level and Save the legs of this LED after you cut...

  • Page 14: Enclosure Assembly

    Enclosure Assembly • Install the True Bypass Jumper on the Switch • Install the Foam Pad • Wire & install the Input & Output Jacks • Install the DC Power Jack • Strip & Twist the hookup wires • Bend and cut the first components for the sockets •...
  • Page 15 Wire the True Bypass: Jumper 1 and 7 with a piece of wire. • Use needle-nose pliers to bend the jumper to fit through the holes in Pins 1 and 7. • Solder the jumper in place. • Be sure the jumper does not touch Pin 4, and that the ends do not touch the other pins.
  • Page 16 Wire the Input & Output Jacks 4-5mm Input Jack Output Jack...
  • Page 17 Install the Foam Pad, Footswitch and Jacks 1. Peel and stick the foam pad just under the center hole for the LED. 2. Install the switch and the Jacks. 3. See the details below for the order of the footswitch nuts and washers. 4.
  • Page 18 Bend and cut “Starter” Components Bend and cut the first components for the sockets: • 2x 22k Resistors • 2x 1N914 Glass Diodes • 2x 1N4007 Silicon Diodes • 1x 2200pF (222) Capacitor The values of these components are in the middle of the range.
  • Page 19 Strip the Enclosure Wires Strip each enclosure wire about 4-5 mm. (¼ inch) • • Yellow Red/Black twist • Green White • Blue • 2x Black 4-5mm...

  • Page 20: Final Assembly

    Final Assembly Illustrations on the following pages • Install the first TONE components in the sockets: • 2x 22k resistors in GAIN 1 & GAIN 2 Socket • 2x 1N914 Glass Diodes in TONE 1 Socket* • 2x 1N4007 Silicon Diodes in TONE 2 Socket* •...

  • Page 21: Socket Functions

    SOCKET FUNCTIONS Tone Socket 1 GAIN 1 gain stage) Top 2 Rows Op-Amp Amplifier Chip GAIN 2 Tone Bottom 2 rows Socket 2 47uF 35v gain stage)
  • Page 22 Install the TONE Components JRC 4558 Op Amp 1N914 Note Pin 1 Orientation 1N4007 222 Capacitor 22k Resistors 47uF 35v (Top row and bottom row) Diode stripes point in opposite directions, To evenly clip the top and bottom of the signal...
  • Page 23 Black to Big Wire the board Below • Black are wires from the DC Power Jack. 47uF 35v White and Blue switch the LED on & off. • Green Yellow are the input and output from the circuit. • Black wires are signal grounds.
  • Page 24 Wire the PCB to the Switch & Jacks NOTE: With the pedal NOTE: in “playing position” Electrolytic Capacitor (with the graphics up) colors may vary from batch-to-batch. Input is on the right. 47uF 35v output is on the left. Input Output Jack Jack...
  • Page 25 TEST Your Pedal! Use a guitar and amplifier to test your pedal. The components you have bent and installed so far will deliver a drive sound in the “middle-range” of what this pedal can deliver. Listen to how it sounds, then decide how you want to change it: •...
  • Page 26 Tone Shaping Basics: MORE Distortion: • Lower-value GAIN1 and GAIN2 resistors (2.2k to 10k) • 1N4007 diodes in both TONE1 and TONE2 • Lower-value capacitor in TONE2 • --OR-- Remove the capacitor from TONE2 • LEDs in TONE1 and 1N4007’s in TONE2 (LEDs = Louder!) Less Distortion: •...
  • Page 27 Define Your Tone GAIN 1 drives the TONE1 diodes. GAIN 2 drives the TONE2 diodes. Lower values allow more signal = increased gain. Experiment with different values for GAIN1 & 2, …But 2.2k resistors in both gets very muddy! Arrrgh! Top 2 rows are GAIN1 Bottom two are GAIN2 Crunch...
  • Page 28 Gain Stage 1 (“TONE1”) DIAGRAM PHOTO SCHEMATIC • 1N914’s here provide a “smooth” overdrive NOTE: • 1N4007’s deliver more “harsh” distortion Components can • LED’s are louder, but have less distortion be in any row EXPERIMENT! – Try mixed combinations of diodes across this socket, or 2 pointing one way, and just one going the other.
  • Page 29 Gain Stage 2 (“TONE2”) 4004 PHOTO SCHEMATIC DIAGRAM • 1N914’s provide smoother distortion with lower treble NOTE: • 1N4007’s deliver harsher distortion and higher treble Components can • LED’s are loud, but have less distortion be in any row EXPERIMENT! – Remove the capacitor, Mix different diodes in this socket, try 2 diodes pointing one way, and one pointing the other.

  • Page 30: Filter Capacitor

    Filter Capacitor The Capacitor values in the kit are: 4004 • 501 (500pF) • 102 (1000pF) NOTE: • 152 (1500pF) Components • 222 (2200pF) can be in any • 332 (3300pF) • 472 High (4700pF) The capacitor in gain stage 2 cuts-down high frequencies. It’s like a tone knob. Higher-value capacitors remove more high frequencies.
  • Page 31 Notch Op-Amp (U1) Pin 1 Pin 1 on the chip has a dimple next to it Or it has a notch on the same end A Dot is on the PCB next to Pin 1 FOUR different Op-Amps are included, but you only need one. I chose vintage Op-Amps designed in the 1970’s: •...
  • Page 32 Tradeoffs • You might be tempted to start with the highest gain possible (low values for GAIN1 and GAIN2 resistors) for the most distorted pedal you can build. • The problem with that is: MASSIVE GAIN from low-value GAIN1 and GAIN2 resistors overloads the low frequencies, and it gets muddy.
  • Page 33 Use masking tape or place a business card in the inside cover, to insulate from short-circuits.

  • Page 34: Troubleshooting Basics

    Troubleshooting Basics LED doesn’t light-up when clicked: • LED installed backwards? • Battery red/black wires backwards • DC Jack wired incorrectly • Dead battery, bad power supply, or a broken wire in the battery clip and connector. No sound at all, with switch clicked on or off: •...

Table of Contents