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Matchless Motor Cycles 41-G3L 1941 Maintenance Manual And Instruction Book

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BOOK No. 101-MCI
MAINTENANCE
MANUAL
AND
INSTRUCTION
BOOK
for
MOTOR CYCLE, SOLO, 350 c.c.
O.H.V., MATCHLESS
MODEL 41-G3L
MATCHLESS
MOTOR CYCLES
PROPRIETORS:
ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LIMITED
EDITION M.M.I

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Summary of Contents for Matchless Motor Cycles 41-G3L 1941

  • Page 1 BOOK No. 101-MCI MAINTENANCE MANUAL INSTRUCTION BOOK MOTOR CYCLE, SOLO, 350 c.c. O.H.V., MATCHLESS MODEL 41-G3L MATCHLESS MOTOR CYCLES PROPRIETORS: ASSOCIATED MOTOR CYCLES LIMITED EDITION M.M.I...
  • Page 4 INDEX. (General Arrangement)................. INDEX (Detailed) s 4, 5 & 6 ................INDEX (Illustrations) Page 3 ..........BLANK (For Notes) s 40, 55, 63, 71,74 & 96 ....CARBURETTER SERVICE INFORMATION Paras. 104 to 109 Page 72 ................... CONTROLS Page 11 ....................
  • Page 5 ILLUSTRATIONS. GENERAL ILLUSTRATIONS..................Controls Illustration Page 11 ................sectioned Clutch do. 44 ..............exploded do. 35 Crankcase ................ exploded do. 41 Cylinder ..............Engine cross section do. 17 ............... exploded Flywheels do. 30 ................
  • Page 6 INDEX. (Detailed) CARBURETTER SERVICE INFORMATION............... Page Para. Carburetter adjustment ................. Carburetter function ..........Carburetter tuning useful information ................Carburetter, type ..............Control levers and cables ..............Twist grip adjustment CONTROLS....................Page 11 Para.
  • Page 7 ENGINE SERVICE INFORMATION............Para. Page Big-end liner removal and fitting ..................Camshafts ................Camshaft bushes ..................Cam contour ..............Cylinder barrel, removal ..............Cylinder barrel, replacement ..............Cylinder head removal ..............Cylinder head replacement ..
  • Page 8 TRANSMISSION SERVICE INFORMATION..Camshaft Para. Page ............Chain adjustment. Dynamo chain ............Chain adjustment. Front chain ............Chain adjustment. Magneto chain ............Chain adjustment. Rear chain ................Chaincase refitting ....................Clutch ................Clutch adjustment ..
  • Page 9 DATA CUBIC CAPACITY … … … … … … … … … … 347 c.c. STROKE 93 mm.=3·6614 inches. … … … … … … … … CYLINDER BORE … … … … … … 2 F inches=2·7187± ·0005 inch. (Re-bore to + ·020 inch when wear exceeds ·008 inch).
  • Page 10 … … … … … C O N T A C T BREAKER POINT SEPARATION ·012 inch. … … … … I G N I T I O N SETTING a inch BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTRE. (With the ignition control fully advanced). SPARKING PLUG (14 mm.) ½...
  • Page 11 CLUTCH THRUST ROD—OVERALL LENGTH … … … … 9d inches. CLUTCH OPERATING FORK TO NOSE OF OPERATING LEVER CLEARANCE Q inch. GEAR BOX MAINSHAFT—OVERALL LENGTH … … … … 10¼ inches. … … … … … BALL BEARING FOR GEAR BOX M A I N GEAR :— INTERNAL DIAMETER …...
  • Page 12 In the instructions references are made and attention. Compiled and Issued by the Manufacturers MATCHLESS MOTOR CYCLES ( P R O P R I E T O R S : A S S O C I A T E D...
  • Page 13 illustration 1 CONTROLS. Valve lifter lever. Clutch lever. Throttle twist grip. Twist inwards to open. When fully closed, engine Front brake lever. should just idle when hot. Rear brake pedal. Air control lever. Pull inwards to increase air supply. Once set, Gear change pedal.
  • Page 14 LUBRICATION ENGINE LUBRICATION. This is by dry sump system. Oil feeds, by gravity, from oil tank under saddle to pump in crankcase. Pump forces oil to various parts. Oil then drains to bottom of crankcase sump. Pump then returns oil to tank. Process is continuous while engine is revolving.
  • Page 15 4 ENGINE OIL CIRCULATION. Engine oil pump forces oil through :— (a) Passage cut through timing side axle, timing side flywheel and crank pin to lubricate big-end bearing. The splash passes to interior of cylinder, to lubricate cylinder and piston, and then falls into crankcase sump. (b) Passage in crankcase, controlled by ball valve, direct to cylinder, to assist in cylinder and piston lubrication and then falls into crankcase sump.
  • Page 16 ADJUSTMENT OF OIL FEED. The internal flow of oil is regulated by fixed restrictions. No adjustment is provided except for the oil feed to the Inlet valve stem. This adjustment is made by a needle pointed screw located in the right side of the cylinder head. It is locked in position by a nut.
  • Page 17 CHAIN LUBRICATION. Front driving chain and dynamo chain run in oil bath. (Front chaincase.) Use engine oil (M-220). Maintain level to height of the inspection cap opening. Oil in front chaincase also lubricates the engine shock absorber and transmission harshness generally indicates level of oil in chaincase is too low. Remove chaincase inspection cap each week, inspect level of oil, and top-up as necessary.
  • Page 18 FRONT FORK LUBRICATION. No part of the TELEDRAULIC Front Fork requires lubrication, but it is necessary to test the level of the hydraulic fluid, and top-up, if necessary, every three thousand miles. Test level and top-up by :— (1) Support motor-cycle, vertically, with the weight on both wheels. (A steady under each footrest is best method.) (2) Unscrew the two hexagonal plugs at top of fork inner tubes.
  • Page 19 Illustration 3 Cross Sectional Drawing of 41-G3L Matchless Engine...
  • Page 20 ENGINE SERVICE INFORMATION For almost all service work to the upper part of the engine it is neces- sary, in order to obtain accessability, first remove petrol tank. NOTE :—Every part, no matter how small, has a definite function. When dismantling, do not Jose any pins, washers, packings, gaskets, or rubber glands.
  • Page 21 24 TO REMOVE THE ROCKER BOX. Remove the petrol tank. (See Para. 22.) Remove the three nuts, and washers under them, retaining the rocker box side cover and take away the cover. Take the opportunity to determine if excessive wear has taken place on the valve operating mechanism by :—...
  • Page 22 Turn over engine several times to ensure all parts have bedded home. Test rocker box fixing bolts for tightness. Check tappet clearances and re-set, if necessary. (See Para. 52.) Replace rocker box oil feed pipe. Do not allow union, screwed into rocker box, to turn when tightening union nut.
  • Page 23 Replace the cylinder head by :— Carefully clean the top edge of the cylinder barrel and the under face of the cylinder head. Ensure the fibre washers are in position surrounding the tappet guides. Fit the cover tubes, with their rubber gaskets and metal washers, into the cylinder head.
  • Page 24 30 TO REMOVE AND REPLACE THE VALVES. Remove the cylinder head. (See Para. 26.) Rest, in turn, head of each valve on small wood block and compress springs to allow removal of valve split collets. The collets are a taper fit in the valve spring collars and it may be necessary to give the collar a sharp tap to release them.
  • Page 25 VALVE GRINDING. It is advisable to grind in the valves at every decarbonisation. Clean stems with very fine emery cloth, using up and down motion with cloth held between thumb and forefinger. Clean both valve guide bores with rag. Ensure both valve ports are free from carbon. Inner valve spring should have a free length of 1 m inch.
  • Page 26 Illustration 5 The inlet valve guide is shown withdrawn and the inlet valve stem oil adjusting screw is also withdrawn. (See para, 7.) (By courtesy of " Motor Cycling ") To fit a new guide :— Place an engine valve in the head and, holding same firmly in contact with the valve seat, slide the new guide on the stem, taking care to correctly align the oil hole in the guide with the oil way drilled in the head.
  • Page 27 In the refitting process care must be taken to have each guide projecting T inch above the crankcase face, and the exhaust guide must be positioned, when fitting, so that the gap for exhaust lifter application faces the rear. The exhaust valve lifter collar lies in a shallow groove cut in the exhaust tappet and is slit to facilitate removal and refitting.
  • Page 28 Remove :— Nut, and washer, on right-hand side of saddle lug bolt. Carburetter, by unscrewing venturi air tube, the two fixing nuts and withdrawing the control cables through their rubber clips. Footrests, by removing nut, and washer, on left-hand side of footrest rod, pulling away rod from right-hand side and prising the two arms from position.
  • Page 29 Place under engine a stout box of a height suitable just to make contact with the engine and, from now onwards, the help of a second person is required. Remove the rear frame assembly by :— Remove the frame front fixing bolt. Remove the seat lug bolt.
  • Page 30 Remove the front chaincase and clutch by :— Place tray under engine to catch oil. Remove battery from its carrier. Remove screw binding chaincase metal band. Remove metal band. (Prise up battery carrier if necessary.) Remove rubber band. Remove nut, and washer, in centre of chaincase front. Take away outer half of chaincase.
  • Page 31 39 TO DISMANTLE THE ENGINE. Remove the engine from the frame. (See Para. 38.) Remove :— Rocker box. (See Para. 24.) Camshafts. (By withdrawing.) Cylinder head. (See Para. 26.) Cylinder barrel. (See Para. 28.) Compression plate and paper washer. The t w o fibre washers surrounding the tappet guides. Small timing pinion nut.
  • Page 32 Illustration 9 An exploded drawing' of the Connecting Rod and Flywheel Assemblies. T O DISMANTLE FLYWHEELS. A puller, as illustration 10, should be used. The Crankpin has parallel shanks which are a tight fit in the flywheels. Remove both Crankpin nuts and then extract Illustration 10 Crankpin, in turn, from...
  • Page 33 TO ASSEMBLE FLYWHEELS. Fit Crankpin into timing side flywheel by:— Place a thrust washer on the Crankpin shank. Introduce Crankpin in flywheel so that the oil hole in the Crankpin will register with the oil hole in the flywheel. (It is through those holes that all the oil pumped to the big-end bearing passes.) Press the Crankpin fully home and proceed to assemble the connecting rod and big-end bearing.
  • Page 34 Therefore, before attempting to reassemble a newly linered connecting rod, the Crankpin assembly should first be offered up. If, when doing so, it is found impossible to introduce the rollers, or if, when fitted, the assembly is stiff to rotate, it is then necessary to correct the bore diameter by a hand lapping process.
  • Page 35 FITTING NEW TIMING SIDE FLYWHEEL AXLE. The timing side flywheel axle is not keyed to the flywheel and, in order to ensure correct valve timing and oil passage register, it is necessary to fit the shaft in the flywheel in such a position that the mark on the small timing pinion is exactly in line with the centre of the crankpin.
  • Page 36 DRIVING SIDE BALL BEARINGS. The driving side main bearings are two ball bearings (identical) spaced by a distance washer and collar. They may be removed with a plain drift 1¼ inches diameter and the inside of the crankcase should be supported on a tube 2v inches outside diameter, not less than 2 c inches inside diameter and 1¾...
  • Page 37 Illustration 16 (By courtesy of " Motor Cycling ") For reamering the bushes a pilot reamer, as illustration 16, should be used, in order to ensure correct alignment. When reamering the bushes the timing gear cover should be firmly screwed to the timing side crankcase. Note which way the bush, in the timing gear cover, for the inlet camshaft, is fitted because it has an internal worm thread designed to sling oil back into the timing gear chest.
  • Page 38 Assembly is done in an arbor press and the cam wheel is a very tight fit on its shaft. The component parts are not fisted as separate spares. When any replacement is needed it is invariably better to fit a new assembly. These are listed in the Spares List.
  • Page 39 Illustration 19 52 TAPPET ADJUSTMENT. The top ends of the t w o long push rods have screwed extensions. These are locked in position by nuts, thereby providing tappet adjustment. The correct tappet clearances, with valves closed and engine cold, is NIL. This means the push rods should be free enough to revolve and, at the same time, there should be no appreciable up and down play.
  • Page 40 Replace tappet cover, fibre washers and retaining nuts. In normal conditions tappet adjustment should not be necessary more frequently than about every five thousand miles or after decarbonising and grinding valves. If adjustment is found necesssary more frequently the cause should be investigated at once.
  • Page 41 To dissemble an overhead rocker assembly :— Reverse above procedure. NOTE: It is essential to remove the rocker box from the engine before removing an overhead rocker assembly. (See Para. 24.) 54 TO RE-TIME THE IGNITION. The maximum advance is a inch. Have available a stout screwdriver, or an old type tyre fever with turned up end, and a bar of metal about ¼...
  • Page 42 55 OVERSIZE PARTS AND RE-BORING CYLINDER BARREL. Pistons and rings, ·020 inch larger than standard, are available. This degree of oversize is such that it is essential for the cylinder barrel to be re-bored to accom- modate it. (See " Data," page 7.) The cylinder barrel standard bore is 2·7187 ±...
  • Page 43 Illustration 21 Exploded Drawing of Cylinder, Piston, Cylinder Head, Valves, Rocker Box and Rocker Gear.
  • Page 44 TRANSMISSION SERVICE INFORMATION GEARBOX. The gearbox fitted to the G3L Matchless is a type C.P. Burman. This provides four forward gears and has a positive foot gear change, operated by the right foot, and a kick-starter. It is retained to the main frame by being clamped between the two engine rear plates by two bolts.
  • Page 45 First, or lowest, gear. Sliding gear (C) on mainshaft is In mid-way position, i.e. disengaged from gears B and D. Layshaft sliding clutch ( W ) moves to right and engages with gear G. Power passes through clutch A, to mainshaft T, to mainshaft sliding gear C, to lay- shaft gear G, to layshaft clutch W, to layshaft V, to layshaft gear E, to main gear B, to chain sprocket J.
  • Page 46 61 THE CLUTCH. Illustration 23 Showing Clutch, Gear Box Mainshaft and Clutch Operating Mechanism. Clutch operating lever A is moved in direction of arrow to disengage the clutch. Operation of clutch handlebar lever moves lever A in direction of arrow and causes it to press against operating plunger B, which, in turn, presses against steel ball C, against the clutch thrust rod D which pushes against the clutch spring pressure plate F.
  • Page 47 Adjust clutch spring adjusting nuts by :— Obtain access, as detailed in Para. 38. Screw home one-half of a complete turn each clutch spring adjusting nut. Test machine for clutch slip. If necessary, repeat, by screwing home a further half-turn but be careful to adjust each of the nuts a similar amount.
  • Page 48 It will be appreciated that, as the result of wear on the fabric inserts in the clutch friction plates, the plates will tend to close up towards each other. This increases the effective length of the clutch thrust rod. On the other hand, the clutch control Inner wire tends to stretch in use.
  • Page 49 66 GEARBOX CAMSHAFT AND FORKS. Two forks slide on the camshaft. The smaller (C) engages with the sliding gear on the gearbox mainshaft. The larger (D) engages with the sliding clutch on the gearbox layshaft. (Illustration 25.) A peg (B) passes through each fork and engages in a profiled groove cut in the cam- shaft.
  • Page 50 Consequently, if the kick-starter crank permanently drops downwards (denoting a broken return spring), or swings to the rear when the motor cycle is in motion (denoting a weak return spring, or a spring that has not been wound up enough, see Para.
  • Page 51 The mainshaft ball bearing, in the kick-starter case, Is retained by a washer and spring circlip and, upon removing the circlip, the bearing may be pushed out of position. The dismantling is now complete. To re-assemble the gearbox :— Replace in the gearbox shell the main gear ball bearing with its oil retaining washers and circlip.
  • Page 52 Place the rocking pawl on its peg, so that it is the same way " round " as it was originally. Take the spring box and quadrant assembly and fit it in the kick-starter case cover, ensuring the steel pin, on the cover, engages between the two larger springs in the spring box.
  • Page 53 If the gearbox is removed from the frame, and/or if the internal shafts and pinions are removed, and the nut has not previously been slackened by the method mentioned above, a " chain grip " is then required, as illustration 26. A chain grip can be made from a bar of steel, about ½...
  • Page 54 REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT, To provide rear chain adjustment the rear wheel is bodily moved in the frame fork ends, which are open-ended and slotted, Tighten the rear chain by :— Place machine on rear stand. Slacken nuts on rear wheel spindle. Slacken nut on each chain adjusting bolt, t w o or three turns.
  • Page 55 MAGNETO CHAIN ADJUSTMENT. The magneto platform hinges on its rear fixing bolt. This provides movement to enable the magneto driving chain to be adjusted. Tighten magneto driving chain by :— Remove magneto chain case cover. Slacken :—Nut on right-hand of dynamo strap square crossbar. Nut on left-hand of dynamo strap square crossbar.
  • Page 56 Fit spacer (inside chaincase, d inch long) to the centre fixing bolt. Fit nut to centre fixing bolt and fully tighten. Fully tighten long-headed bolt holding rear chain guard to front chaincase. Ensure dynamo sprocket key is in position. Take dynamo driving chain and place it round the small sprocket of the engine sprocket assembly and the sprocket that fits on the dynamo shaft and fit those three parts, in one movement, to the driving side flywheel axle and the dynamo shaft.
  • Page 57 Engage top gear, apply the rear brake and then fully tighten the engine shock absorber retaining nut. Check front driving chain for adjustment. (See Para. 71.) Check dynamo driving chain for adjustment. (See Para. 73.) Fit outer half of front chaincase by :—. Ensure faces of both halves of chaincase are clean.
  • Page 58 WHEEL, BRAKE AND TYRE SERVICE INFORMATION TO REMOVE THE FRONT WHEEL. Place machine on rear and front stands. (Some machines may not be fitted with a front stand. In those cases, place under the engine a box, of suitable height and strength, to lift the front wheel well clear of the ground.) Remove :—...
  • Page 59 WHEEL ALIGNMENT. When the wheel alignment is correct a piece of thin string stretched taut across both wheels, about four inches from, and parallel to, the ground, should just touch each tyre at both sides of the wheel centres. Alternatively, a straight wooden batten, about five feet long, is handy to use for checking wheel alignment.
  • Page 60 82 TO DISMANTLE A WHEEL BEARING. Remove the wheel from the machine. Unscrew spindle nut on brake side and take away brake cover plate with brake shoes, etc. Illustration 27 In all relative details the construction of the front and rear hubs is similar Slacken :—...
  • Page 61 Remove :— Spring ring fitted just inside the hub end. Plain steel washer. Felt washer, with the spacing collar encircling it. Plain steel washer. The spindle, complete with rollers and cages, and one outer cup, by pressing them out of the hub shell, from either end, leaving one outer bearing cup in position. If desired, the remaining cup can also be pressed out of the shell.
  • Page 62 BRAKE SHOES. The front and rear brake shoes, springs and expanders are interchangeable. The two shoes in each brake are not identical, they are " handed." One end of each shoe bears on a fulcrum fixed in the brake cover plate. The other end accommodates a detachable thrust collar.
  • Page 63 BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT. The position of the rear brake pedal can be adjusted within narrow limits. This is done by means of a bolt screwed into the heel of the pedal. The adjusting bolt is locked by a thin nut. The best position, for normal use, is to position the pedal so that, when the brake is "...
  • Page 64 RIMS, SPOKES AND SECURITY BOLTS. The front and rear rims are 19 inch by 2½ inch and accommodate the same size of tyre (26 inch by 3·25 inch), but they are not interchangeable because the nipple holes in the front rim are smaller than those in the rear rim. The dimensions of spokes will be found on page 9.
  • Page 65 TYRE FITTING. To re-fit an inner tube and outer cover :— Place one edge of cover right Into well of rim, and, commencing diametrically opposite, and using the hands only, work the cover over the edge of the rim. Replace the security bolt and screw on its nut a few turns. Replace the valve "...
  • Page 66 FRAME AN D FORK SERVICE INFORMATION 95 STEERING HEAD ADJUSTMENT. The steering head races are of the floating, self-aligning type, and have spherical seats. Therefore they do not fit tightly in the head lug and handlebar clip lug. The two races in the head lug and the race in the handlebar clip lug are all identical. The lowest of the four races (fork crown ball race) is dissimilar, to the others.
  • Page 67 The normal level of oil reaches a line diagonally across the bottom edge of the oil level screw hole. It will be seen that all parts located below this level are con- tinuously submerged in oil. Bearing this in mind, it is at once clear that the upward movement of the sliders, upon impact with a road bump, in addition to meeting resistance from the springs, also causes oil to be swept down by the close-fitting steel bushes 40-G12M-FF192.
  • Page 68 This oil is forced upward through the holes A in the bottom ends of the damper tubes and also through holes B in the bottom ends of the main inner tubes. At the same time, oil pressure lifts the damper valve 40-18-FF58 and fills the tube between this valve and the plunger sleeve 40-G12M-FF56.
  • Page 69 For testing and topping-up instructions see Para. 17. It is important those instructions are carefully followed. To make the various stages of assembly quite clear it must be assumed that the fork is completely dismantled and then, for assembly instructions, follow the stages detailed in Paras.
  • Page 70 (c) Make the inner tube left assembly by :— Exactly the same as for the right-hand assembly (b). (d) Make the right-hand damper tube and slider assembly by :— Take a damper tube rod and fit, in the drilled end, a damper stop pin. Place a damper valve on the same end of the rod, reduced end outwards, so that the valve body can slide over the stop pin.
  • Page 71 98 FITTING THE FIVE FORK SUB-ASSEMBLIES TO THE MACHINE Fit the fork crown, steering column and handlebar clip lug by :— Place a frame ball race in the top of the main frame head lug, load it with grease and fill with twenty-eight steel balls (x inch diameter). Lay a frame ball race over the steel balls.
  • Page 72 Fit the front mudguard, front stand, front wheel and make final adjust- ments by :— Fit front mudguard and stays. Fit front stand, (See Para. 100.) Offer up front wheel, twisting same till the slot in the front brake cover plate engages with the stud op the left-hand slider, and secure with the two clamps, The clamps are each retained by two c inch nuts, under which is a plain steel washer.
  • Page 73 102 TO REMOVE OIL TANK AND BATTERY CARRIER. Two studs on the seat tube, one facing to the front, the other facing to the rear, engage with t w o right-angle stays on the oil tank and t w o similar stays on the battery carrier and t w o washers and nuts, fitted to the studs, retain the oil tank and battery carrier in position.
  • Page 74 CARBURETTER SERVICE INFORMATION 1 04 THE CARBURETTER. An AMAL type 275/IJ carburetter is fitted. It is tuned during the road tests of the machine and it should not be necessary to interfere with the standard setting but instructions for doing so are given in Para. 106. 1 05 CARBURETTER FUNCTION.
  • Page 75 Weak mixture is always indicated by popping, or spitting, at the air intake. A rich mixture usually causes bumpy, or jerky, running and, in cases of extreme rich- ness, is accompanied by the emission of black smoke from the exhaust. CARBURETTER ADJUSTMENT.
  • Page 76 TWIST GRIP ADJUSTMENT. A screw is provided in one-half of the twist grip body to regulate the spring tension on the twist grip rotating sleeve. This screw is locked by a nut and it must be screwed into the body to increase the tension. The most desirable state of adjustment is that when the grip is quite free and easy to turn but, at the same time, will stay in the position in which it is placed, The complete twist grip can be moved on the handlebar by slackening the two screws...
  • Page 77 ELECTRICAL SERVICE INFORMATION The electrical equipment comprises three independent electrical circuits, as follows :— (a) IGNITION—Magneto, High-tension W ir e and Sparking Plug. (b) CHARGING.—Dynamo, Cut-out and Regulator, Ammeter and Battery. (c) LIGHTING A N D ACCESSORIES—Lamps, Wires, Switch and Horn. MAKE OF ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT.
  • Page 78 Illustration of Contact Breaker showing:— Contacts. Lock nut. Contact breaker securing screw. Screw carrying lubrication wick. Screw securing contact breaker spring. Illustration 34 Remove the screw retaining the contact breaker spring blade to the contact breaker body and take away the backing spring and the spring blade. (There is a spring washer under the head of the screw.) Unscrew the screw carrying the lubrication wick and take away the fibre insulating...
  • Page 79 NOTE RE CONTACT BREAKER. Check the contact breaker point gap after the first one hundred miles and five hundred miles. Owing to the Initial settling down, there is a tendency for the gap to alter in the first few hundred miles of use. This may Seriously affect the ignition setting.
  • Page 80 The magneto platform is retained to the machine by :— At the rear by the seat tube bottom lug bolt passing through it. (This bolt also passes through the rear of the engine rear plates.) At the front by the dynamo square crossbar, each end of which is threaded and has on the right-hand end an extended nut, and on the left-hand end an ordinary c inch nut.
  • Page 81 MAGNETO TEST AND REPAIR. Dismantle magneto. (See Para. 121.) When the armature has been removed it should be examined for actual structural faults, such as cracked or bent shaft. Any flaw in the winding needs special equip- ment to detect. If the condenser is faulty a new one CAN be fitted, but in the event of either of these faults, it is desirable to fit a complete service armature.
  • Page 82 SPARKING PLUG. The sparking plug has a thread of 14 mm. and the reach is ½ inch. The following plugs are used :— LODGE … … … … Type H-53 LODGE … … … … Type H-14 … … … …...
  • Page 83 NOTE RE DYNAMO REMOVAL. Electrical breakdown of the dynamo is most unusual and therefore before assuming this unit is defective it should be tested, as follows :— Disconnect the two dynamo wires. (See Para. 37.) Join the two dynamo ter- minals with a short length of wire.
  • Page 84 The dismantling is now complete and it will be noticed that :— (a) The two sets of balls, in their cages, are in position on the armature shaft. The balls and cages are easily removed by prising with a screwdriver. The inner races are a tight fit on the shaft and must be removed w i t h a special extractor.
  • Page 85 TO DISMANTLE A M I L L E R DYNAMO. Remove dynamo from machine. (See Para. 126.) (In this process the commutator end cover (which is retained by one round-headed screw which has a spring washer under it) is taken away as are the three dynamo wires.) The Miller dynamo consists of four main components :—...
  • Page 86 TO ASSEMBLE A M I L L E R DYNAMO. Reverse the procedure described in Para. 131, bearing in mind the following points:— (1) Fit the right-hand end plate to the dynamo body first. (2) Pass the red wire and the adjacent green wire through the triangular slot in the end plate..
  • Page 87 Check commutator for cleanliness and clean by :— Remove commutator band. Commutator must be clean and free from trace of oil or dirt. Clean commutator by pressing against it a fine duster while the engine is slowly turned over. If commutator is very dirty, moisten duster with petrol. Illustration 37 Showing Lucas Dynamo Commutator and Brushes FITTING NEW DYNAMO BRUSHES.
  • Page 88 TEST AND REPAIR DYNAMO FIELD COIL. (LUCAS AND MILLER.) The fitting of the field coil requires the use of a pole shoe expander. If this is not available do hot attempt to replace coil. When fitting new coil tighten pole piece fixing screw to fullest extent. TEST AND REPAIR ARMATURE.
  • Page 89 THE BATTERY. (LUCAS AND MILLER.) When examining a battery, do not hold naked lights near the vents as there is a danger of igniting the gas coming from the plates, When the vent plugs are removed ensure the ventilating holes in each are quite clear. Remove dirt with bent wire.
  • Page 90 145 THE HEADLAMP. (LUCAS.) A Lucas type DU-42 headlamp is fitted. To remove the lamp front (including reflector and mask), release the spring clip located at the bottom of the lamp front and pull outwards the bottom of the front. The ammeter, switch and wire loom are retained to a panel which may be detached from the lamp shell by removing the three fixing screws.
  • Page 91 14 8 THE REAR LAMP. (LUCAS.) A Lucas type L-WD-MCTI rear lamp is fitted. The body, with bulb holder, is secured to the rear mudguard by two bolts, with washers and nuts. The bulb is 6-7 volts, 3 watts, S.B.C. The cover, carrying the red glass, is secured to the body by a spring clip and a rubber sleeve encircles the body, serving the dual purpose of a water seal and locking device for the cover.
  • Page 92 through the collet and bend back the wire strands. Pass the bared end of the second wire through the gland nut and bend back the wire strands. Then screw the gland nut into the threaded sleeve and complete the operation by sliding the rubber sleeve over the metal assembly.
  • Page 93 KEY TO CABLE COLORS BLUE & PURPLE RED & YELLOW BLUE & BLACK WHITE RED & BLUE WHITE & GREEN RED & WHITE RED & GREEN WHITE & BROWN RED & BROWN WHITE & PURPLE RED & BLACK WHITE & BLACK YELLOW GREEN NOTE- LEFT HAND SWITCH...
  • Page 94 Illustration 40 Miller Wiring Diagram...
  • Page 95 USEFUL INFORMATION MECHANICAL TROUBLES. Sudden failures are generally due to one definite thing. Gradual failure may be due to a combination of circumstances. In any case of failure In operation no adjustment should be made, nor any part tampered with, until the cause of the trouble has been located.
  • Page 96 Loss of power may be due to :— Faulty sparking plug. Lack of oil in tank. No tappet clearance, or too much clearance. Weak valve spring, or sticky valve stem. Valve not seating properly. Brakes adjusted too closely. Ignition lever creeps to full retard position. Badly fitting, or broken, piston rings.
  • Page 97 Illustration 41 Tools...
  • Page 98 TOOLS. In addition to the tools illustrated in illustration 41, the following tools are included in the standard tool kit of a 41-G3L Matchless :— Tool bag … … … number 17520 Part „ Screwdriver … … … LTK-13 Pliers …...