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VAMISOUND VM55 Building Instructions

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VM55
BUILDING
INSTRUCTIONS

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Summary of Contents for VAMISOUND VM55

  • Page 1 VM55 BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS...
  • Page 2 VM55 BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS Dear friend, first of all thank you for your support and choice of the VAMISOUND product. We wish you a happy DIY and the joy of a new microphone in your arsenal!! Jan and Milan...
  • Page 3 Before you start building your new microphone please carefully read this building instructions. Attention: VM55 is a medium-heavy project. The circuit is made up of only a few components. However, it should be borne in mind that certain manual skills will be required or the successful completion of the mic construction.
  • Page 4 VAMISOUND VM55 full kit includes a microphone body consisting of several parts, printed circuit board, transformer, capsule, capacitors, resistors and one teflon pin. You also received a paper microphone box with foam filling. Under the top foam filler you will find the capsule and transformer.
  • Page 5 As mentioned the VM-14 transformer and capsule can be found in the second layer under the microphone. Just remove the top layers of foam. Now that you know what to find where we can get to building. Start fitting the pcb with resistors. On the right notice that the R1 resistor is placed in the air and one of its legs is on the teflon pin.
  • Page 6 Continue by fitting the output capacitor (the yellow one), the zener diode (ZD) and capacitor C1 one leg of which is also on the teflon pin. In next sequence install electrolytic capacitor C3. Also pair of caps C5 and C6. Place fet transistor Q1 in place and solder its pin to the teflon pin.
  • Page 7 Notice the two white dots (or black on some pieces) on the transformer near the bottom edge of the circuit board. They mark the beginning of the transformer windings and will help you solder the wires into the correct holes. Solder the blue primary wire, which is marked with a dot, to the pad on the board that is marked as P+.
  • Page 8 Take the microphone body and the small screwdriver included in the kit and unscrew the bottom of the microphone with the XLR insert. ATTENTION!!! Screw the three screws in the bottom of the microphone inwards (clockwise - tighten)!!!!! Do not try to unscrew them outwards through the microphone tube.
  • Page 9 Unscrew the XLR insert out of the bottom part of the microphone. In the next step solder the XLR connector insert to the board. Carefully align the connector to the board so that the pins are directly on the rectangular soldering pads on the board. Be especially careful not to overheat the connector pins and melt the plastic part.
  • Page 10 Unscrew the front metal ring of the microphone and remove both grilles and the inner plastic separation ring.
  • Page 11 Take the capsule and the insulating tape (strip) that was included in the parts. Carefully peel off the yellow covering film from the tape and stick it without much pulling around the whole capsule. Trim the overhanging piece of tape. Then insert the taped capsule into the microphone head as shown.
  • Page 12 Now take the two included teflon insulated wires and solder them carefully to the capsule. The red wire to the central terminal and the white wire to the side terminal as in the picture. Make sure both wires measure exactly 60mm including the exposed soldering section. No less. Take the microphone head and insert the rear grille, then the grey spacer ring with the circular cutout as you see in the picture.
  • Page 13 Now you can clearly see where the front of the microphone is located and where the capsule diaphragm goes.
  • Page 14 Now it's time to solder the cables leading from the capsule to the circuit. Before that, however, do not forget to shorten the Teflon pin so that its metal part is 3mm long.
  • Page 15 Solder the red cable directly to the teflon pin from the bottom side of the circuit board. The white one to the pad marked BCK on the circuit board. Notice that the microphone head is now with the diaphragm facing downwards.
  • Page 16 At this stage you can carefully connect the microphone to the preamp and measure the voltage on the XLR pins and on the different points of the circuit (on zener diode, on drain and source of FET). Slide the microphone tube onto the microphone head part. Do not screw anything on. Note that the XLR insert sticks out because the cables from the capsule have enough slack (hence their min.
  • Page 17 Now screw the bottom of the microphone and the XLR insert together.
  • Page 18 Carefully unscrew (= counterclockwise) the three hexagonal screws from the bottom out into the microphone tube. Again, be careful not to unscrew these screws all the way out of the tube. Screw them out only about to the edge of the microphone tube so that they do not protrude. Now comes probably the most tricky part of the whole construction.
  • Page 19 Before you close the microphone completely make sure that the circuit board fits snugly into the two cutouts (rails) in the head section of mic and that the microphone cables are not pinched anywhere. Now that the microphone is completely closed, you can unscrew (= counterclockwise) the last three hexagonal screws.
  • Page 20 Congratulations. Your new microphone is now ready for sound tests.

  • Page 21: Additional Info

    WIRRING INFO 1) Join pad 1 on the pcb via resistor leg to xlr "ground lug" (on connector insert) = its mic body to XLR1 pin (0V) connection. 2) Capsule wiring: Centre terminal wire (red) to teflon pin marked as FD from the bottom side of pcb. White cable from capsule to BCK pad on the mic pcb.

  • Page 22: Bill Of Material

    BILL OF MATERIAL Part Value Tol. Min.V Dimmensions link 1 link 2 notes olt. Resistors 10 % 6.5x2.5mm mouser link 1-25K selected * FET1 bias setup mouser link mouser link mouser link 2K21 mouser link matched to R7 2K21 mouser link matched to R6 Part Value...