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ARTEMIS, The Wacky Robot Build Guide
Introduction
Welcome to CircuitMess Artemis, the
Wacky Robot build guide!
By following this build guide, you'll learn how to assemble your Wacky Robot Artemis!

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Summary of Contents for Circuitmess Artemis

  • Page 1 ARTEMIS, The Wacky Robot Build Guide Introduction Welcome to CircuitMess Artemis, the Wacky Robot build guide! By following this build guide, you'll learn how to assemble your Wacky Robot Artemis!
  • Page 2 Artemis is a beginner-friendly 19-piece kit. With Artemis, you'll learn, except soldering, about different electronic components and how a running light circle works. After you finish building Artemis, you'll have fun watching it sparkle. Age group This product is 9+.
  • Page 3 It should take you approximately 1 hour to fully assemble your Artemis. Skills You don't need any specific skills before getting your hands dirty with this DIY project. The main objective here is to have fun and learn something new.
  • Page 4 In case something is missing, please contact us at contact@circuitmess.com. Send us a photo of everything that came in the box, and we'll get back to you as soon as possible to resolve the issue. Here's the list of components: 1.
  • Page 5: Circuit Board

    9. Capacitor 10. On/off switch 11. 555 timer (the smaller one) and 4017 digital counter (the bigger one) 12. Transistor 13. Bolts (12) 14. Metal screws (2) 15. Large standoffs (2) 16. Standoffs (12) 17. PCB 18. Wires (8) Electronics 101 Let's learn something about the components you've got! 1.
  • Page 6 What does it do? Your circuit board has two functions: ● It holds all the electronic components in place. ● It provides electrical connections between the electronic components. Because of the circuit board, all electronic components can work together as a team. What are those tiny lines on my circuit board? They allow electrical charges to flow between components.
  • Page 7 These are also referred to as “FR4” sheets. The FR4 sheets are used as the insulating non-conductive material, and copper is used as a conductive material. If material is conductive, it conducts electricity; electrical charge can flow through that material easily. FR4 and copper are both sandwiched together in thin sheets, and that’s how you get a circuit board.
  • Page 8 2. Resistors Resistors are the most basic electronic components found in almost every electronic device. They fall in the category of passive electronic components. Passive electronic components do not generate electrical power and do not need electrical power to work. They just modify the flow of electrical energy in their own unique way.
  • Page 9 Resistance Resistors have a property of resistance - they lower the amount of electrical energy flowing through the circuit. They “resist” the flow of electrical energy. The unit of resistance is called ohm and it was named after German physicist Georg Simon Ohm.
  • Page 10 Scientists and engineers have come up with different symbols for each and every electronic component. This is an electronic symbol for a resistor: This is Georg Simon Ohm:...
  • Page 12 3. Switch The switch you got in your kit helps you turn the device on and off. You can easily do so with one simple push. A switch controls the flow of power to an electric device - in other words, it connects and disconnects an electrical circuit.
  • Page 13 rechargeable battery. This is an electronic symbol of a capacitor:...
  • Page 14 A capacitor can absorb energy from a circuit and store it temporarily. Later on, this stored energy can be released back to the electronic circuit. We can measure the ability of a capacitor to store electrical energy. We call this property - capacitance. The unit of capacitance is called Farad (we use the letter F as a short for Farads).
  • Page 15 The transistor is an electronic component that can be used as part of an amplifier or as a switch. It is made of semiconductor material. Transistors have 3 terminals: the emitter, the collector, and the base. When the emitter is connected to the negative terminal of the battery and the collector to the positive terminal, no electricity will flow in the circuit.
  • Page 16 Watch out - LEDs are polarized! Light-emitting diodes (LEDs) are polarized. This means that they only allow current to flow in one direction. Because of this, you need to pay attention to how you are going to place your LED in the electronic circuit.
  • Page 17 Electrical energy flows from the anode to the cathode and not in the opposite direction. Resistors and LEDs make a great team! LEDs can be damaged if they receive too much energy. Oh no! The coin cell battery supplied with your CAPACITRON is too much for the poor little LEDs.
  • Page 18 Historical fun facts: A Russian inventor Oleg Vladimirovich Losev made the first LED in 1927.
  • Page 20 LEDs use energy far more efficiently with very little wasted heat. Meet the tools! Soldering iron For Artemis' assembly, any entry-level soldering iron will suffice. Although, if you plan to dive into the world of DIY projects, you should consider getting a more expensive one with more features.
  • Page 21 Make sure that the sponge isn't dripping wet or bone dry - it should be damp. Diagonal cutter pliers We prefer this type shown in the picture (Plato, model 170), but any other type will do. How do I solder? One of the things you'll do as a part of Artemis' assembly process is soldering!
  • Page 22 Have you ever done that before? If your answer is no, we suggest you look at the following few links where you'll find useful tutorials and blogs about soldering. It will only take you 10 minutes to get into the zone and understand how it's done. Here are the links: ●...
  • Page 23 Here are the pictures that can help you recognize good and bad solder joints:...
  • Page 25 These are the rules for soldering you should follow every time: ● Never inhale the dust and the fumes that can be produced by the soldering iron! ● Soldering iron gets hot! Do not touch the tip of the soldering iron! Even if the soldering iron is turned off or completely disconnected from the power source, there is still a possibility that it’s very hot and, therefore, can cause very uncomfortable pain if touched.
  • Page 26 The soldering iron is very easy to use but only when used properly. Step 1 - plug it in Put the soldering iron on a soldering iron stand, and plug it into a power outlet.
  • Page 27 Step 2 - Select the right temperature The temperature will be set to 390 degrees Celsius by turning the soldering iron on.
  • Page 28 Step 3 - Don't forget to turn it off when you're finished We’ll tell you when you’re done with soldering, and you'll unplug the iron from the power outlet to turn it off. Please use the metal stand every time you are not using the soldering iron to make sure you don't burn the surface or the circuit board.
  • Page 29 Make sure to not touch the soldering iron tip for at least five minutes after you have turned it off. Artemis, meet your maker! Part one - Resistors The first components you will need for assembling Artemis are resistors. There are three different resistors with different color bands. This is how they should be placed (left to right):...
  • Page 30 1. Golden-brown-red-red 2. Brown-blue-orange-golden 3. Golden-orange-blue-red Carefully bend them into a U-shaped form. Take them one by one, and place them onto the circuit board.
  • Page 31 Insert it one at a time, or all three at once, making sure that they are pushed all the way to the board, and then flip the board around. If this is your first time soldering, go over the rules, videos and photos once again. To ease the soldering process, bend the resistor's legs like this:...
  • Page 32 Check if all the soldering joints look clean, and if there are no soldering bridges. Straighten the resistor's legs, and take the cutter pliers. Here, it is very important to turn the board around when cutting the legs off to avoid getting anything in your eyes.
  • Page 34 Part two - Switch If you successfully soldered the resistors, it's time for the switch. These are the components you'll need for this part:...
  • Page 35 Place the switch here:...
  • Page 36 Turn it around and start soldering. It will ease the soldering process to solder the far-left and the far-right pins first, and then those in the middle. Check that the switch is vertical to the board after connecting the first pin. If it isn't, move it with your fingers.
  • Page 37 This is what the back of Artemis should look like by now:...
  • Page 38 Part three - 555 timer and 4017 digital counter For the next step, we'll need these two components.
  • Page 39 Place them here, and make sure that the cut-off part on the components matches the cut-off part on the board.
  • Page 41 Flip the PCB, and start soldering.
  • Page 42 This is what the back of Artemis should look like right now:...
  • Page 43 Part four - Potentiometer The potentiometer (the round red thingy) will be soldered next.
  • Page 44 Place it here:...
  • Page 45 Turn the PCB around and start soldering:...
  • Page 47 Part five - Connector The kit contains two connectors, however you'll only use one right now. One will be placed on the front of the PCB, and the other one will go at the back.
  • Page 48 Place this one here:...
  • Page 49 Make sure that the cut-off side of the component matches the cut-off side on the PCB. Turn it around and start soldering:...
  • Page 51 Part six - Capacitor...
  • Page 52 These are the components we'll need for the next step: Place it here, making sure the white side of the capacitor matches the white side of the PCB:...
  • Page 54 Turn it around and start soldering:...
  • Page 56 Part seven - Transistor Take the PCB and the transistor:...
  • Page 57 Place it here, and as always, make sure that the cut-off side matches the cut-off side on the PCB.
  • Page 58 The transistor does not have to get all the way to the board. Turn the board over and start soldering:...
  • Page 60 Part eight - Second connector Take the second connector now: This one will go on the back of the PCB. Ensure that the cut-off side of the connector matches the cut-off side on the board:...
  • Page 61 Flip the board and start soldering:...
  • Page 62 This is what the board should look like right now:...
  • Page 64 Let's give Artemis a crazy look! Now, we'll put the casings on Artemis. But don't turn off your soldering iron just yet; we'll need it again. Firstly, take all of the acrylic casings that look like this. There should be eight of them:...
  • Page 65 Don't forget the other side:...
  • Page 66 It's time to give those parts a crazy look with the stickers you got in the kit:...
  • Page 69 Take a close look at this photo and make sure that this is the way you placed the stickers on the acrylic parts: If everything looks like in the photo above, take the wires and the LEDs.
  • Page 70 Now, we need your full attention! Take one LED and one of the acrylic parts and do this:...
  • Page 72 As you can see, one of the LED's legs is longer than the other. The length represents polarity. The longer leg (+) is positive, while the shorter leg (-) is negative. Make sure the red wire is soldered on the longer leg and the other side of the red wire is soldered on the PCB's plus sign.
  • Page 74 To begin, solder all of the LEDs and wires together. Make sure not to place the tip of the soldering iron directly on the acrylic part because it will start melting. The best way to do it is to attach the tip of the wire to one of the LED legs (preferably closer to the acrylic part) and begin soldering on that connection.
  • Page 75 Now is the time to connect the other end of the wire to the PCB. As mentioned previously, the red part of the wire (the one connected to the longer LED leg) goes to the plus sign. Put the wire on the silver part and start soldering. You don't need to use a lot of solder.
  • Page 76 Now, take the pliers and cut the rest of the legs of the LED. Make sure to turn it away from your eyes.
  • Page 77 When you connect all of the wires and LEDs to the board, your Artemis should look like this.
  • Page 79 Take the black bolts now and the little black spacers. Put the bolts through the acrylic part and the PCB like this:...
  • Page 80 Take the spacer and fasten it with your fingers on the back side:...
  • Page 81 This is what it should look like:...
  • Page 82 Repeat the step for all acrylic parts:...
  • Page 84 One thing that's missing is the battery holder. Take these components: Put the metal screws through the battery holder like this:...
  • Page 85 Add the spacer at the back and fasten it with your fingers:...
  • Page 86 What your battery holder should look like:...
  • Page 87 This is how you need to put the battery holder on the PCB:...
  • Page 88 Connect the battery holder to the connector:...
  • Page 89 Add the spacers on the front:...
  • Page 91 And, finally put the batteries in: Make sure you put them on the right side (check the + and - signs).
  • Page 93 Amazing! Turn on Artemis and see whether the LEDs light up in a circle one by one. If they are, you did a good job! If some of the LEDs (or none of them) are not lightning up, check the soldering joints or contact us at contact@circuitmess.com and we'll help you.
  • Page 95 This is what the components should look like. They need to be completely transparent: Take one of the black bolts and place it like this:...
  • Page 96 Add one of the long spacers and fasten it with your fingers:...
  • Page 98 Repeat the process for the second bolt and spacer:...
  • Page 100 Connect it with the other acrylic part and fasten the bolts with the long spacers:...
  • Page 101 Put Artemis on the stand like this:...
  • Page 104 Don't worry if you need to use a bit of strength to put it on the stand, that's normal. If everything is working and Artemis is on its stand, you successfully completed this guide! Congrats.