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8.
Check the DVA on each Black/White wire to engine ground. You should have a reading of at least 150 V minimum (while connected to
the Power Pack). If the reading is low, disconnect the Timer Base wires from the Power Pack and recheck the Black/White terminals
ON THE POWER PACK. If the voltage jumps up to an acceptable reading, the Timer Base may have a problem in the internal wiring
9.
Check the Timer Base and Stator coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
NO SPARK OR INTERMITTENT SPARK ON ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS:
1.
Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Rectifier and retest. If the engine now has good spark, replace the Rectifier.
2.
Check the Timer Base resistance and DVA (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER).
3.
Swap the Timer Base wire sets (swap the #1 & #3 pair with the #2 & #4 pair) and see if the no spark problem follows a Timer Base
wire.
4.
Check the DVA on the Orange Primary wires from the Power Pack while connected to the Ignition coils. You should have a reading of
at least 150 V minimum. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the Orange Primary wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder
and reconnect it to a Pack Load resistor. Retest. If the reading is good, the Ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates
a bad Power Pack.
5.
Visually inspect the Ignition coils for burned or discolored areas or cracks in the casing (indicating arcing inside the coil).
6.
Swap the Ignition coil with one that has good spark.
7.
Rare causes include a weak Timer Base magnet. If possible, try another flywheel.
POWER PACK OR TIMER BASE REPEATEDLY BLOWS ON SAME CYLINDER:
1.
Check the Timer Base wires for shorts to engine ground as a shorted Timer Base wire can destroy a SCR inside the Power Pack.
2.
In contrast, a shorted SCR inside the Power Pack can destroy a Timer Base coil. Check the Timer Base resistance and DVA (see NO
SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER).
3.
Replace the Ignition coil on the cylinder dropping spark.
ENGINE WILL NOT STOP (KILL):
1.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the Power Pack. Connect a jumper wire to the Black/Yellow stop wire from the Power Pack and
short it to engine ground. If this stops the Power Pack from sparking, the stop circuit has a fault. Check the key switch, harness, and
shift switch (if present). If this does not stop the Power Pack from sparking, replace the Power Pack.
MISS AT ANY RPM:
1.
Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Rectifier and retest. If the miss clears, replace the Rectifier.
2.
Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually
indicates a problem in the Power Pack or Ignition coil. Occasionally a Timer Base will cause this same problem. Check the Timer Base
DVA (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER).
3.
Perform a high speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when
the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
4.
Check the Timer Base and Stator coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
5.
Disconnect the Rectifier and retest. If the system now has spark, replace the Rectifier.
BATTERY CHARGING ISSUES:
1.
Regardless of whether the charging issue is overcharging or not charging at all, the #1 cause of all charging issues is the battery often
due to improper style and/or charging neglect. #2 is the battery's connections. #3 is the Rectifier. #4 is the Stator.
2.
The recommended type of battery for outboards is a single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-
maintenance-free battery.
Non-maintenance-free batteries (lead-acid flooded cell; has vent caps on its top) have heavy, thick plates. They're ideal for outboards,
3.
where batteries are commonly drained by accessories while fishing, etc. when there is no charge applied to a battery while the battery
is in use. Its heavy plates can withstand constant discharging and charging. These batteries have much more reserve time and are
much more suited for this behavior.
NOTE: Some Maintenance free batteries will have vented caps on top. When in doubt, change the battery to a non-
maintenance free type.
4.
Maintenance-free batteries should NEVER be used in an Outboard application. A new, fully charged maintenance-free battery may
work fine at first but their life span is dramatically shortened due to the constant charging and discharging. This activity will cause the
cells to become weak, and/or the cells will become dead. When this happens, the battery is unable to accept a full charge, thus putting
the Rectifier at extreme risk of failure. Therefore, maintenance-free style batteries commonly cause charging issues shortly after
installation.
5.
Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure that all connections are tight and free of corrosion. Do NOT use
wing nuts as they tend to loosen over a period of time from vibration. A loose connection WILL cause a premature battery and/or
Rectifier failure(s).
Web Support:
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Rev E • 5/18/2023
Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics, LLC • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824 USA
www.cdielectronics.com
• Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
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