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CDI 173-3672 Installation And Troubleshooting Manual page 4

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MISS AT ANY RPM:
1.
Disconnect the Yellow wires from the Stator to the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. If the miss clears, replace the Regulator/Rectifier.
2.
In the water or on a Dynamometer, check the DVA on the Orange wires from the Power Pack while connected to the Ignition coils. You
should have a reading of at least 150 DVA or more, increasing with engine RPM until it reaches 300-400 DVA maximum. A sharp drop
in DVA right before the miss becomes apparent on all cylinders will normally be caused by a bad Stator. A sharp drop in DVA on less
than all cylinders will normally be the Power Pack or Timer Base.
3.
Connect an inductive tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder usually
indicates a problem in the Power Pack or Ignition coil. Occasionally a Timer Base will cause this same problem. Check the Timer Base
DVA (see NO SPARK ON ANY CYLINDER).
4.
Perform a high speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a miss at high speed when
the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
5.
Check the Trigger and Charge coil flywheel magnets for cracked, broken, or loose magnets.
HIGH SPEED MISS OR WEAK HOLE SHOT:
1.
Disconnect the Rectifier and retest. If the problem disappears, replace the Rectifier and retest.
2.
Connect DVA meter between the Brown/Yellow and the Brown wires and do a running test on each set. AT NO TIME SHOULD THE
VOLTAGE EXCEED 400 DVA. If it does, the regulator circuit in the Power Pack is faulty. The voltage should show a smooth climb and
stabilize, gradually falling off at high RPM (above 5000). If you see a sudden drop in voltage right before the miss becomes apparent,
the problem is likely in the Stator.
BATTERY CHARGING ISSUES:
1.
Regardless of whether the charging issue is overcharging or not charging at all, the #1 cause of all charging issues is the battery often
due to improper style and/or charging neglect. #2 is the battery's connections. #3 is the Regulator/Rectifier. #4 is the Stator.
2.
The recommended type of battery for outboards is a single (NOT more than one) 850+ CCA dual purpose or cranking/starting non-
maintenance-free battery.
Non-maintenance-free batteries (lead-acid flooded cell; has vent caps on its top) have heavy, thick plates. They're ideal for outboards,
3.
where batteries are commonly drained by accessories while fishing, etc. when there is no charge applied to a battery while the battery
is in use. Its heavy plates can withstand constant discharging and charging. These batteries have much more reserve time and are
much more suited for this behavior.
NOTE: Some Maintenance free batteries will have vented caps on top. When in doubt, change the battery to a non-
maintenance free type.
4.
Maintenance-free batteries should NEVER be used in an Outboard application. A new, fully charged maintenance-free battery may
work fine at first but their life span is dramatically shortened due to the constant charging and discharging. This activity will cause the
cells to become weak, and/or the cells will become dead. When this happens, the battery is unable to accept a full charge, thus putting
the Rectifier/Regulator at extreme risk of failure. Therefore, maintenance-free style batteries commonly cause charging issues shortly
after installation.
5.
Check all battery connections, particularly at engine ground. Make sure that all connections are tight and free of corrosion. Do NOT use
wing nuts as they tend to loosen over a period of time from vibration. A loose connection WILL cause a premature battery and/or
Regulator/Rectifier failure(s).
6.
If there is no change, try a single (NOT more than one) known good fully charged battery that is 850+ CAA Dual Purpose, or a
cranking/starting battery that is non-maintenance free. Make sure the battery is a lead acid flooded cell battery (has vent caps on its
top).
7.
Measure the DVA across the Stator's Yellow battery charge wires, while connected to the Regulator/Rectifier. At idle the DVA will
normally between 8-25 DVA. If not, disconnect the Yellow wires from the Regulator/Rectifier and retest. DVA will normally be 17-50
DVA at idle. If the voltage is low, the Stator is possibly faulty. Perform a visual of the Stator for browning and varnish dripping. These
are signs that the Stator has overheated. If the visual inspection shows any of these signs, replace the Stator.
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Rev D • 6/19/2023
Installation and Troubleshooting Guide
This installation is to be completed by an Authorized Dealer or Professional Service
Technician. For questions regarding installation or warranty, call CDI Tech Support
at 866-423-4832. Do not return to the Dealer or Distributor where the part was purchased.
Contact CDI Electronics Directly for Return Material Authorization.
CDI Electronics • 353 James Record Road SW • Huntsville, AL 35824
www.cdielectronics.com
• Tech Support: 1-866-423-4832 • Order Parts: 1-800-467-3371
Page - 4 of 5
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