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Sun Fun Kits V3.5 Assembly Manual Revision 1.3...
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Before you Begin: Thank you for purchasing your Sun Fun Kits V4 DIY heated battery kit, diy battery kits make assembling your battery quick and easy and only require basic tools and hardware to assemble. We recommend having a basic understanding of DC wiring in order to assemble your battery pack and you will also need the following tools: ●...
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Preparing your battery cells: Sun Fun Kits DIY battery kits support various prismatic cells, in this manual we will be using the EVE LF304 type, however the process is the same for other manufacturers such as CATL, REPT, Ganfeng and more, the V3 Kit includes spacers and other items to ensure maximum...
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1 set of 1.5mm and 1.0mm shims (3 pieces each). The shims should be placed between the inner cells and most installs will use about 3 shims. For Sun Fun Kits certified cells (280K and LF304) you should be able to use 3 x 1.5mm shims to complete the install and have a nice tight fit.
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If you find difficulty installing the 1.5mm shims you may go down to 1.0 MM shims, you can mix and match the 1.0 and 1.5mm shims as needed to suit your install preference. OPTION1: Basic Heating Element Setup: Version 3.5’s basic heating element includes dual heating pads on the inside walls of your kit. This provides good heating and will raise the inside temperature of your case evenly.
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Begin by placing your cells in a series configuration with the left side of the battery having the positive terminal on the lower left and the negative terminal on the lower right. Page: 6 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Note: You will want to have the textured side of the shim facing the cell you installed, with the smooth side facing the empty space. This will ensure the shim stays in place while you install cells. Page: 7 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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V3.5 kits support various cells and depending on your cell height you may or may not need cell spacers. For LF280K and LF304 cells sold by Sun Fun Kits, you will use the 4mm spacer on top of the aluminum braces to raise the height of the support so that it matches the cell. If you are using EVE LF280N or other cells that are 200mm tall you can skip this step as the aluminum bracket matches the height of your cells.
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The heated kits will provide additional resistance to cells when they are being installed, however, there is still sufficient space to insert the cells. It is recommended that you do not install fully charged cells as they will make the process challenging. Page: 9 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Once your cells are in the correct position; it is now time to install your bottom bracket. With our v3 kits we have made our cell bracket universal and it should fit virtually all cells in the 270-320 AH class. Install the bottom bracket with the M5 bolts and washers, you can use power tools to assist in this step.
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Locate the 2 silicone rubber heating elements and attach them to your cells using KAPTON TAPE or PET/Polyester high temp Tape. DO NOT USE SCOTCH™ or other forms of plastic tape, KAPTON (PET or Polyester BASED) is required to handle the heat being generated by the silicone pads.
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For the inner 2 cells you will use a shim for one of the cells to provide the final cell separator for the kit, you can select from either the 1.0m or the 1.5mm shim depending on how tight you want your install to be (the tighter the better for most installations).
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You will use the same method to install the final cell as in the non-heated kits and work the cell in. Some resistance is normal as this will ensure a tight fit and make sure your cells do not move around.
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You will now need to crimp connectors to the wires of your heating pads, to do this you will need to crimp 1 wire from each pad together for the yellow terminal (this will go to the positive lug on the case) and 1 wire from each pad to the black terminal (this will go to the heater port on the BMS).
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Setting Up Electronics & Cell wiring: Note: Before beginning this step it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you clean and wipe down all of your bus bars, washers, terminals and battery post with 90% isopropyl alcohol. Dirty terminals and connections will result in improper readings and poor results.
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The V3.5 kit system supports various BMS devices from manufacturers such as JBD (SFK Series), Daly, Ant, QUCC, and more. New device support is being added constantly; if you need a specific mounting plate made, simply contact Sun Fun Kits support at cs@sunfunkits.com Page: 16 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Begin by aligning your buss bars as follows: Page: 17 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Now you will add your series terminals and BMS balancing/monitoring wires as well as the active balancer wires (NOTE the initial negative post; and the final positive post are shared between both the active balancer & BMS, all other posts may be separate for each cell) USE EXTREME CAUTION! THE BLUE WIRE SHOULD NOT TOUCH THE POSITIVE TERMINAL OF THE FIRST CELL OR IT WILL ARC AND DESTROY THE CELL.
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Your cells should come with the bus bar, terminal studs or welded terminals. Tidy up your install using electrical tape, zip ties, or velcro strips. Setup the wiring schematic as follows: Note: CAUTION!!! In many prismatic cells the positive terminal is colored black and the negative terminal is colored brown! Please double check your cells with a volt/multimeter...
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With version 3.5 we have color coded the BMS wires to match the active balancer to assist in installs, you can use this combination to ensure you have matching connections. If you are using a supplementary balance, you should install this as well, you will need to share the final negative and positive terminals of the battery for the bms and the supplementary Page: 20 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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balancer.. Make sure the wired main lugs are the ones that touch the cell terminal and only stack the other bms and active balancer rings on top. Your voltages should read: 3.3, 6.6, 9.9,13.2 (Nominal Voltage). All V3.5 RTB kits include the active balancer, and we highly recommend using it as it reduces the balancing stress on your BMS and is able to balance out cells significantly faster during charging.
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Secure the riser plate using the 3 countersunk M4 screws. We recommend only using hand tools for this process (despite the youtube videos where the installer and author of this manual uses an impact hammer… The heated kits will power the silicon rubber heating elements either form dedicated ports on the BMS.
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For heated kits it is recommended to use kapton tape to secure the wires and flap of the silicon rubber heating elements to the sides of the riser plate. Page: 23 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Install the m4x15-25 mm bolts on the bottom, and the m4x15mm bolts on the top. NOTE: Make sure the balancing lead is NOT connected to the BMS! This will be inserted in a later step. Page: 24 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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With the plate secured, it is now time to start attaching the terminal cables to the BMS, this will vary depending on which BMS you are using, for all Sun Fun Kits BMS, we provide the BMS to you with appropriately sized crimped and ready-to-install wires that you easily attach to your kit.
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Image shown is from the v4 kit. Image shown is from the v4 kit. Page: 26 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Image shown is from the v4 kit. *The blue wire end with its wires crimped vertically is attached in this inverted lug manor. Secure the wire to the BMS terminal with the included m6 hex bolt. Image shown is from the v4 kit. Page: 27 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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*Similar to the blue wire, the black bms to case wire is also installed inverted, this allows for greater flexibility in wire routing. Secure with the included M6 hex bolt. Image shown is from the v4 kit. Heated kits will include 2 additional terminals that will need to be installed, these will vary based on the BMS and or thermal switch you are using.
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During the injection molding process some residual abs material may have gotten deposited onto the main brass conductor rings, these need to be cleaned. Using 300-400 grit sandpaper, gently scrub the conductor ring until all traces of residual abs plastic are removed. Once cleaned, use isopropyl alcohol to wipe clean and then begin to attach the main BMS and cell wires.
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Once you have determined your mounting preference, take your preferred mounting option and attach your top lid. ENSURE A TIGHT FIT! You must make sure the bolt is making proper and solid contact to the brass insert, a loose contact will generate heat and can lead to battery failure. Ensure at least 8-12 NM torque setting (appx 110 inch/lbs).
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Heated kits shall attach the positive terminal of the thermal switch/silicone heater terminal to the final post on the lid. NOTE: be sure that the heater terminal sits ABOVE THE MAIN LUG, it should never be below it as this will result in a poor connection resulting in a high resistance connection and will cause damage to your battery.
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Finish off by bolting down the top lid using the 4x15mm countersunk screws. USE HAND TOOLS! No Impact Drivers for this step! Optionally, if you would like to have a moisture/water resistant seal, you can use electrical safe silicone (low order) sealant between the lid and the lip of the battery. A good example is this brand: Page: 32 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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Simply apply a bead of it before closing the lid, we have a video of this process (shown on a v1 kit): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7AIX0kE1Lw The last step in your kit assembly is to attach the handles & grips. This process is very simple: thread the nylon rope through the plastic barrel and through the hole on the kit handles.
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Once done your kit is now complete and ready for testing. Monitoring Apps & Tests: You can now connect to your battery and perform tests; visit Google Play Store or Apple IOS App store and search for: Sun Fun Kits BMS https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.companyname.sfkble&hl=en&gl=US https://apps.apple.com/tt/app/sun-fun-kits-bms/id1600445506 Page: 34 V3.5 Manual - Revision 1.3...
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