Related Manuals for 3D Upfitters Ender 3 S1
Summary of Contents for 3D Upfitters Ender 3 S1
- Page 1 Ender 3 S1/Pro/Plus Enclosure Kit Installation Manual 1.5 February 2023 Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC...
- Page 2 This page was intentionally left blankety blank Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC...
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Page 3: Before You Start
This installation manual covers the enclosure design for the Creality Ender 3 S1 and Ender 3 S1 Pro, and Ender 3 S1 Plus ONLY. The Ender 3 V1, V2, and Max all require different enclosures! If you have a different enclosure version, please read previous versions of the manual available on the website. -
Page 4: Preparing The Printer
Preparing the Printer Remove any filament from the hot end (which will require heating the hot end) and remove the filament spool from the spool holder. Turn the printer off and unplug the power cable from the printer’s power supply. Don’t Panic If You See This! ... - Page 5 How to Remove The Plastic or Paper Acrylic Panel Covering Everything You Wanted to Know About Screwing But Were Afraid to Ask Screw Tool Needed Usage Relative Size 30-50mm Attach fan/filter, attach large Hex Cap 3mm Hex Wrench front latch mounts Head 12mm Hex 3mm Hex Wrench...
- Page 6 The most confusing thing about assembling this enclosure will probably be which fastener or screw to use. Luckily it's easy to figure out once you know the system. While the same screw to use will be detailed in each section of the manual, you probably won't need to refer to it once you know the secrets.
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Page 7: The Front Panel
There are also smaller connectors at the top and right sides when viewed from the front. The front should look like the picture to the right. Again, please note that the Ender 3 S1 Pro and Plus models will not have a front vent. Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC... - Page 8 Locate the magnetic latches and use the wood screws to attach them to the latch mount, as shown below. The magnetic metal strips should be facing out of the enclosure. Hand tighten only enough, so the magnetic latch doesn’t move, as the latch will be later adjusted front-to-back to ensure the door is flush with the frame.
- Page 9 slot. Use a 14mm or 16mm cap head screw to attach the door. Now that the latches are mounted, it is time to connect the strike plates. Each plate has a squishy adhesive covering the same size as the plate. Carefully attach the adhesive side to the acrylic at the location of each latch.
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Page 10: Left Side Panel
2. Left Side Panel Note: the ender 3 S1 Plus model has a vent on the left side, while the other two models do not. Attach the left side to the front forming an L-shape that will stand up on its own, then attach one L and one R connector at the back. - Page 11 Note that the left side will also be the location of the fresh air intake vent, but that will be installed after the enclosure is placed over the printer. Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC...
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Page 12: Back Panel
3. Back Panel The back of the enclosure is shown below. The four corner connectors are mirror images of the front. The large hole is either for an air filter (purchased separately) or can be covered by the included plastic disc using M4 12mm screws. On the top and each side are “mid panel corner connectors,”... - Page 13 The back panel also contains the removable grommet cable portal. Locate the grommet and insert it into the grommet holder. This is where you’ll insert the power cable, USB cable, and wires you want to run in or out of the enclosure. Insert the grommet holder/grommet combination into the U-shaped hole in the right-side panel.
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Page 14: Right Panel
Attach the right panel as shown above at each of the four corners. You can now attach the latch mount on the front using 2 M4 12mm cap head screws. The new Ender 3 S1 has a different display that inserts into a mounting platform and attaches via the two corner connector screws on the right panel. - Page 15 Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC...
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Page 16: Top Panel
5. Top Panel Before attaching the top, now is an excellent time to insert the support beam. It is a tad wider than the enclosure so that it doesn’t fall out when moving the enclosure. Use access through the doors to attach the top of the enclosure using M4 12mm screws. - Page 17 Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC...
- Page 18 √ √ The air vents for the Ender 3 S1 model are inserted outside and attached using M4 12mm screws. This will bring cold air to the air intake vent of the case, cooling the electronics inside. Keeping the fan on the back panel running to help draw air through the case’s vents and outside is essential, especially when printing PLA and PETG.
- Page 19 The right tray is unique because it has a hole to fit around the rubber foot. As you insert the tray, lift the printer's right side so that the tray slides under the square rubber foot. This foot fits into the square hole in the vent. Copyright 2023 3D Upfitters LLC...
- Page 20 7. Tighten Gaps Once the enclosure is completely put together, it is time to ensure that each panel is held tightly to each adjoining panel. The connectors are designed with a small amount of play that allows you to make minor adjustments for the perfect fit. 1.
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Page 21: Temperature Gauge
9. Temperature Gauge The optional thermometer will let you know the temperature inside the enclosure. It attaches to the left side of the door piece using the same hole as the topmost corner connector, as shown. It comes with a longer screw to fit through everything. 10. - Page 22 11. Managing Enclosure Temperatures There's not much to a 3D printer enclosure. Although ours look fancy, they're similar to putting a card box over the printers since both designs are passively heated by the heated beds. We generally get two types of customers: 1.
- Page 23 internal temps between 35C and 40C for 3D printers that use E3D hot ends because E3D recommends that temp range to avoid clogging. Keeping the temperatures in that range puts the least stress on the equipment and follows the manufacturer's guidelines.
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