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Bad sensor, safety – if the internal logic detects open sensor wire, incorrectly wired sensor, or some bad
sensor transmitted value conditions; the green LED reverts to a pulsing mode. Basically the appropriate
sensor is set internally to a 0° value and there will be an attempt to cause the electric heat output to go
"DT flat".
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OT sensor – approximately 1/10 second blip every ½ second
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ST sensor – two, 1/10 second blips every ½ second
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Both bad – ½ second on and ½ second off, alternating
Analyzer readout, sensor temperature constant 32° or 0° – these two values represent digital bit
patterns that are hard to predict an error function. A blinking green light may or may not be experienced.
Typically the cable is too long, wrong type of sensor wire, or some electrical interference on the sensor
cable.
WarmFlo Furnace Interface Internal Fuse – the internal fuse is between the fan center "R" and all
other WarmFlo II functions, including the "R" going to the outdoor unit. Use only two amp, fast blow.
WarmFlo Controller Fuse – the WarmFlo II board itself does not contain a traditional fuse. At the "R"
input terminal is a automatic reset, short current protection device. If there has been a short circuit
condition, and the green LED is off, at least 2 to 3 minutes "cool off time" is required for this "fuse" to
reset.
In order for the installer to completely understand the WF II functions and operational sequence it is
recommended to thoroughly read and understand the information below. This knowledge can help in
determining settings that can be set according to the end customers needs.
Normal Heating Operation – Whenever the WarmFlo II Y tab is at 24 volt (with reference to "C"), the
WarmFlo II controller begins turning on the Electro-Mate elements (assume outdoor temperature is below
disable value) and automatically controls the warm air temperature as sampled by the warm air sensor
(ST). However, if added heat is not required, no element power is used.
Depending upon Electro-Mate model, the heating section may have one, two, three, or four stages. Stage
one is pulse modulated (approximate 10-second cycle) based upon the WarmFlo II controller automatic
requirement. Stages 2, 3, and 4 are turned on and off with a relay. However, Stage 2 is only used when
needed by the WarmFlo II supply air temperature calculations. When the warm air sensor is calling for
more than the heat pump and Stage 1 100% output, Stage 2 turns on. Stage 1 may not necessarily remain
at 100%, but is modulated downward to meet the requirements of the warm air sensor.
Also on the next call for heat, the WarmFlo II controller remembers what stages were on and starts at that
point. A clamp-on amp meter at the service input can be used to "visualize" the Stage 1 modulation
and/or Stages 2, 3, and 4 functions.
Efficiency* – the characteristic of a heat pump dual heat system is the heat pump's ability to deliver
warm air at efficiencies greater than 100%. Gas and oil systems are always less than 100% (60% through
90%), resistance electric (Electro-Mate) is always exactly 100%, but the heat pump is always at least
100% (-20°F) or greater, up to about 200% for air source.
The user needs to realize it is to his advantage to run the heat pump either continuously or at the longest
possible thermostat call cycles. This is contrary to the basic understanding of most users. However,
realizing again the heat pump is a device that delivers greater than 100%, this system can only deliver
greater than 100% if it's running, let it run. Because of WarmFlo's design concept and its internal
"brain" the heat loss curve (diagonal lines, above) allows the compressor to operate with a minimal
amount of electric resistance supplement or temperature boost.
Where should I set the efficiency dial? – As you can visualize from the curves above, the lower the
setting, the flatter the curve, the less electric resistance is added to the heat pump compressor warm air.
07/31/2007
OPERATIONAL INFORMATION
27
HI320
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