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Summary of Contents for GM LAB X1000
- Page 1 X1000 MONOPHONIC SYNTHESIZER A DIGITAL SYNTHESIZER PROJECT BASED ON RASPBERRY PI PICO...
- Page 2 DCO able to drastically reduce the amount of components normally used for a synthesizer back in the days. With GMLab X1000 you have a similar concept: a single digital chip is able to manage almost all the synthesizer. It's a very basic monophonic synthesizer, easy to learn and to operate with all the sections well defined by knob colors and labelings.
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Page 3: Mounting Instructions
MOUNTING INSTRUCTIONS Welcome to the mounting instruction sheet for the GMLAB X1000 monophonic synthesizer. assemble this correctly work properly, a good skill and experience with electronics and computers is required, plus some tools and a little bit of patience and attention. You must be able to recognize electronic components, resistors, capacitors, integrated circuits, you must be able to solder them properly on the PCB. - Page 4 20x REDCUBE M3 mounting supports 4x M3x20 M/F plastic HEX spacers 4x Rubber feet 27x M3x5 screws 3x M3 nuts 1x 40 pin long female header (2x20 pins) 3x Push switches 21x Transparent Potentiometers 2x 20 pin long male header 1x 2 pin male header 1x 6 pin male header 1x 9 pin male header...
- Page 5 NOTE ABOUT REDCUBES Redcubes are little components that allow to fix the side panels of the synthesizer without compromizing aesthetical result product. They need soldered bottom PCBs. procedure is not very easy and we suggest to do this operation before anything else.
- Page 6 - You will notice that the pad is a little bit bigger in the inside area: that is the place where you have to start soldering it. Put the tip of your soldering iron there and start applying the soldering tin wire to it: hold them firmly, don't apply the solder tin on the pad before positioning the REDCUBE, otherwise it will be difficult then to re- position it again.
- Page 7 - The soldering tip needs to heat both the PCB and the REDCUBE before the tin starts melting. This requires time, it can be from 10 to 30 seconds depending on the temperature. - When the solder tin starts melting you will see the tin going everywhere in the pad and also underneath the REDCUBE, firmly attaching it to the PCB.
- Page 8 ACTIVE BOTTOM BOARD fig. 1 fig. 2...
- Page 9 STEP 1: Let's start from the electronics. All passive components, first, starting from the lowest till the tallest. Take the resistors, bend the terminals 90 degrees (if not already bent) and add them to the main PCB in the correct positions (check the schematics, silkscreen on the PCB and the component numbering and value).
- Page 10 There are other 2 headers that you need to add: they are those for the DAC board: Now we are ready for next step: integrated circuit and the Raspberry Pi Pico board. STEP 3: Add the Integrated Circuits. Pay attention not to keep the solder pin for too long, and that all pins have been soldered correctly.
- Page 11 Let's now proceed with the voltage regulators: they are special integrated circuits that, in this case, also need to be screwed onto the PCB using three 3x5 screws and three M3 nuts. Before soldering them, you have to bend the pins; please also pay attention on their codes, they are three different ones.
- Page 12 Last thing to do in this step is adding the brain of your synthesizer: the Raspberry PI PICO board. There's a smart way to do this. First of all, plug 1x20 male headers 1x20 female headers previously soldered, like this: Then insert there the Raspberry PI PICO board.
- Page 13 Now proceed and solder the pins: STEP 4: Add the MIDI connector, the DC plug and the TRS 6.3 jack and solder them: this is an easy procedure.
- Page 14 STEP 5: this is the last step for the bottom board and consists in mounting the 4 plastic Hex spacer and the 4 rubber feet, one for each corner of the PCB. This should be the end-result: Now your bottom board is complete and it should look as the fig. 1 and fig.
- Page 15 TOP PANEL BOARD Fig. 3 Fig. 4...
- Page 16 STEP 6: the top panel board, once mounted, will be the the control surface of your GMLab X1000, where you will find all the potentiometers and the pushbuttons. The potentiometers we selected, have a transparent shaft, when the jumper in the header named "LED_PWR" in the bottom board is plugged in, the SMD LEDs premounted on this PCB will lit in different colors illuminating the potentiometer's shaft.
- Page 17 Then insert the potentiometers one by one in the board and start soldering them. When you are done, the board should look as the photos fig. 3 and fig. 4 on page 15. STEP 8: In this step, you are required to connect together the bottom board the top board...
- Page 18 STEP 9: The very last step is mounting the four side panels for your X1000. Please note that they are all different. You have one for the rear side, where you will also find labelings for the connections. One completely black for the left side, another one for the left side with a small window for the USB connector of the PI PICO board.
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