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Related Manuals for Daedalus Starling V3FP
Summary of Contents for Daedalus Starling V3FP
- Page 1 Daedalus Spinning Wheels Starling v3FP...
- Page 2 Bobbin, Flyer, Motor Mount, Serial Plate, 3mm Allen Wrench, Rear Kevlar Tension Belt Right Side with Tension Knobs Left Side with Tension Anchors Extension Cable, Orifice Reducer, Drive Belt, Orifice Hook, Maiden Cup, Tie Knob, Face Maiden Bearing, Pinion, Guide • Rear Bearing • Rear • Right Tension Dial • Motor Cable...
- Page 3 Welcome to the Flock! Thank you for purchasing the most popular Daedalus electric spinning wheel to date! It was designed to be quiet, long-lived, and to require little to no maintenance during its lifetime. Should you need any assistance in the future with your wheel, please do not hesitate to contact us at support@daedalusspinningwheels.com Getting Started To watch a video on how to assemble your wheel please scan the QR code below. When setting up your wheel after assembling from flat-pack you’ll want to make sure that everything is properly aligned for optimal spinning. (This is also a wise procedure after traveling with your Daedalus wheel.) The motor mount is designed to be easily removed and reinstalled facing the opposite direction, in order to change tensioning systems from Scotch to Irish. In Scotch tension the motor drives the flyer and the tension belt provides resistance to the bobbin, allowing yarn to wind on. In Irish tension, it’s the opposite: the bobbin is led by the motor. Because of this feature, you will need to make sure the motor and its pinion pulley are properly aligned directly underneath the appropriate whorl before spinning.
- Page 4 To do so, check the pinion pulley (the groove that holds your drive band) on the front of the motor. It should be located directly below the belt groove on the flyer above. Verify that the drive belt is parallel to the front frame by observing it from the side. Use your thumbs to adjust the position of the motor mount as necessary. If the motor mount feels too tight to move, push one side downward until it pops off the carbon tube. If necessary, this wheel can be flat-packed to aid in portability. To disassemble, you’ll need to use the 3mm Allen wrench included in your spares tool kit. Simply remove the flyer, pop off the motor mount, and loosen 4 screws to separate the front and rear pieces from the body tubes. To see all our videos on how to use your wheel scan this QR Code with your mobile device:...
- Page 5 Two-Speed Pinion The black pinion pulley on the front of the motor has two grooves: the smaller one is Low Speed and should be used primarily. If you increase the speed to 100% in Low Speed and still need more, switch the motor belt to the larger High Speed pulley and enjoy a significant increase in speed! When changing the motor belt from one pulley to the other, you will need to move the motor mount assembly slightly, to re-align it under the groove. You can view from the side and determine if the belt is parallel to the front frame. Below are examples of alignments for the two-speed pinion.
- Page 6 Scotch Tension Basics Our wheels ship out in Scotch tension setup. The motor will be facing forward and the pinion pulley will have just enough space between it and the front frame to slip on the rubber drive belt. Viewing from the side will verify that the drive belt is parallel to the adjacent front frame. The tension belt is located in your spares kit. (It’s a short piece of Kevlar with a spring and an adjustable cinch plate.) Install your flyer, bobbin, motor drive belt, and tension belt. Place the tension belt so that the spring is on the LEFT side when spinning singles (clockwise, Z) but swap the tension belt with spring on the RIGHT side for plying (counter clockwise, S). This way the spring can actually do its job on the “taut” side of the tension belt. The goal is to have the Right Tension Dial (1) adjusted into the middle of its adjustment range, with no slack in the tension belt and very little expansion of the spring. This is a good starting point and makes sure there is a usable range on the dial so takeup can be increased or decreased.
- Page 7 Increase Tension To reduce the slack on the tension belt, simply rotate the Left Tension Hook outward (2) until the slack is gone, then use the knob on the right to fine-tune from there. After traveling, a small adjustment may be required. Starling tension uses a spring, and you can look at it to see how much tension is Decrease Tension being applied. The usable range goes from spring collapsed to fully extended at almost double its length. If you still need more takeup, consider using Irish tension instead.
- Page 8 Setting Up for Irish Tension Irish tension provides more takeup, or pulling in of the yarn, than Scotch tension. Changing to Irish tension is as easy as removing the flyer, tension belt, and motor drive belt. First, detach the motor and its mount by pushing down on one edge with both thumbs. The other side now comes free easily. Turn the motor so that it now faces the rear, and snap it back onto the carbon tubes. Place the motor drive belt over the rear frame and re-install the flyer. Install the motor drive belt over the bobbin’s small whorl. Verify the alignment of the clear motor drive belt to the rear frame. If needed gently slide the motor until it aligns directly underneath the small whorl of the bobbin. Install the tension belt at the front, over the flyer groove. Please note that your direction switch will be opposite in Irish tension as compared to Scotch (meaning that I is S and II is now Z).
- Page 9 Slide the motor mount in a rocking motion until it aligns under the small bobbin whorl at the rear of the bobbin and the other end of the chassis. Verify this visually from the side to ensure the drive belt is parallel with the rear frame. When moving the tension hook pieces from one end to the other, your overall tension may be affected. Fine-tune them in their new placement.
- Page 12 Start it up! Before you get started, always make sure the direction switch on the Speed Controller is in the middle (neutral) position, or else the wheel will attempt to start when you’re not ready. Please read the directions for using the Speed Controller for more in-depth information. Direction Switch I - Clockwise Z twist (commonly chosen for spinning singles) 0 - Neutral II - Counterclockwise S twist (commonly used for plying) (Note: this is for Scotch tension setup; Irish tension is the reverse) • Tie a leader (a long loop of fingering weight yarn or your personal preference) onto the bobbin, usually just through the pattern on one end of the bobbin whorls. Use the provided orifice hook to route the leader through the yarn guide, then through the shoulder of the flyer, and then through the orifice. • Plug your 15V 5 amp wall power supply (or your 15V battery) into the Speed Controller.
- Page 13 • The module should light up and show the current set speed. Adjust this as necessary using the Up/Down arrows, and then press the Daedalus logo (Start/Stop) on the Speed Controller. The display will show “- - -“, which is stopped. • Attach your fiber to the leader loop. Verify the display says “---“, which means it is stopped. Flip the direction switch to the desired direction. • When ready, press the Daedalus logo (Start/Stop). The wheel will slowly accelerate for 3 seconds to your set speed %. You can fine-tune your speed while spinning by using the Up/Down arrows. When it’s time to advance your yarn guide, press the logo (Start/Stop) and the wheel will slowly decelerate for 3 seconds and come to a stop. • Increase or decrease your speed using the Up and Down arrows. Pay attention to the takeup and adjust the tension knob accordingly. Fine-tune your speed as you get comfortable. You will need to slightly adjust the tension as you change your speed and as the bobbin fills with yarn.
- Page 16 Changing the Bobbin When it’s time to change your bobbin, simply slip off the tension belt, lift the rear end of the flyer and rotate the assembly to either side. The maiden pivots freely, so the drive belt almost never needs to be removed. Keep track of the small rear bearing by placing it back onto the rear magnets until you can get the new bobbin installed. With the new bobbin on the flyer shaft, replace the rear bearing and rotate the assembly back onto the chassis, making sure the small rear bearing goes back onto the magnets. Replace the tension belt and you are ready to spin again! When set up for Irish tension, your drive belt is on the bobbin , so simply slip that off before removing the bobbin.
- Page 17 RPM Speed Table The following RPM (rotation per minute) stats were recorded from a typical Starling V3FP after a short break-in period. Top speed will increase around 3-4% from these numbers after approximately 100- 200 hours of use. Actual performance figures vary between wheels by less than 1.5% (30 RPM at top speed), due to slight variations in components and build. Please use this as a general guideline. When using a battery to power your wheel, you may find that your battery times out (shuts itself off) at slower speeds. This is due to the wheel not being able to draw enough power from it. If you find this to be the case, try plugging in another item while in use, via the USB port. We recommend a USB light (available on our website), a small fan, or simply charge your cell phone while you’re spinning. Speed Low Speed High Speed Low Speed High Speed Scotch Scotch Irish Irish RPM 2180 2360 1820 2050 1970 2150 1640 1860 1760 1920 1450 1650 1540 1680...
- Page 18 Speed Controller Menu To access the Speed Controller menu, put the direction switch in the neutral (middle), position. Press the Start/Stop button and make sure you see a speed percentage number. Press Menu to see option No.1, and press Menu again to reach the next option. There are five total options. Adjust each menu option by using the Up/Down arrows. Press the Start/Stop button to save changes and exit the menu at any time. Here are the five menu selections: 1) 030 Start time delay, in tenths of a second. This shows a 3-second delay, though the full range is 0-10 seconds. (Keep the start delay low to get the wheel up to speed quickly, or increase it for a slower start. If you feel the yarn is being yanked from your hand when the wheel starts, increase this value.) 2) 030 Stop time delay, in tenths of a second. This shows a 3-second delay. Again, the actual range is 0-10 seconds. A setting of 2.060 would be a longer, 6-second delay. (5-7 seconds seems right for high-speed plying on a laden bobbin, though your mileage may vary.) If you’re getting backlashing, where the yarn feeds back off the bobbin during a Stop, increase this value just until the backlashing stops.
- Page 19 3) 001 Minimum speed setting, as a percentage of RPM. This shows a setting of 1%, the lowest speed selection possible while spinning. This setting is not commonly changed from 1%. (If you never use speeds under 30%, you could change this setting 3.030 and your Speed Controller won’t go slower than 30%) 4) 100 Maximum speed setting as a percentage of RPM. This shows a setting of 100%, meaning that you could go full throttle and spin at max speed, provided you feel comfortable doing so. This setting represents the maximum speed you’d like your Speed Controller to allow for. A new user may want to make sure they never accidentally go too fast and might limit their top speed this way. (For instance, changing this setting to 4.070 would keep the controller from going above 70% speed.) 5) 001 Speed increment adjustment size. This shows 1% increments, meaning that every time you press Up/Down, the speed will change in steps of 1%, 2%, 5%, etc., depending on the setting you’ve selected. A setting of 5.005 means every press of the Up/Down buttons will increase or decrease your speed by the initial 5% (e.g., 5, 10, 15, 20% instead of 1, 2, 3, 4%). It would be very uncommon to change this setting from the default value of 1% increments.
- Page 20 Spares Kit & Accessories Motor Extension Cable, Drive Belt, Tension Spring, Cinch, 3mm Allen Wrench Rubber Grommets, Rear Bearing, Rubber Feet, Flyer O-rings, Kevlar Tension Belt...
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Page 21: Maintenance
Maintenance Our wheels are designed with high grade, sealed roller bearings that are greased from the factory and will never require oil or any other attention. No parts of our wheels require oil or grease of any kind. If you notice your achievable tension being less than before, the Kevlar tension belt may need to be cleaned of aluminum oxide buildup. Inspect the area of the belt that contacts the aluminum drum. If there is a large buildup of dark powder, you can freshen it by gently brushing the belt with your thumb to remove most of the alumina. The contact area of the Kevlar may show some “seasoning,” in the form of being a little fuzzy. This is to be expected and should not change the tension profile. The provided belt material is 1.5 mm Kevlar (yellow). You may experiment with other Kevlar braids from 1.0 to 3 mm for a softer or firmer tension profile. You are welcome to try other materials like cotton, nylon, or silk. To clean your e-spinner, please use a lint-free cloth. If needed, dampen the cloth with water only. Please do not use detergents or cleaners. Canned air is recommended for keeping crevices clean of fiber and yarn debris, but be certain to keep the can upright while spraying to avoid damaging the surface. If you live in a high humidity area, you may notice some slight tarnishing on the maiden bearing. This can be cleaned with a jewelry polishing cloth. Please inspect your rubber o-rings for any cracks, as dry rot can happen in extremely dry climates. They can be protected with any oil and are easily replaceable with the spares provided in your kit. If you need any assisance with your wheel, please do not hesitate to reach out to support@daedalusspinningwheels.com... - Page 22 Daedalus Battery All of our Daedalus e-spinners require 15V power. Our official Daedalus Battery can change voltage simply by pressing the power button until 15V appears. The Daedalus Battery uses an 18v 3amp power supply. Do not swap this power supply with your wheel’s power supply for any reason. Input (long side of battery) - for charging your battery Output (short side of battery) - for powering your wheel Best Practices • Do not attempt to charge the battery and operate the wheel at the same time. • Do not use your wheel’s power supply to charge the battery. Conversely, do not use the battery’s power supply to power your wheel. Label your cords to avoid a mixup. • If your e-spinner is going slower/faster than you remember it spinning at your usual settings, check the battery setting to ensure that it is still set to 15V.
- Page 23 All Daedalus Spinning Wheels use 15V power supplies. Using anything other than 15V can be harmful to your wheel and void your warranty. When using a battery, please ensure it is set to 15V. Daedalus Spinning Wheels LLC and Spotted Ewe Fibers LLC will not be held liable for any damages incurred to persons or property due to the use of non-approved third-party manufactured components on our products. Doing so will void your warranty. Please email us with any questions regarding modifications or third-party equipment.
- Page 24 Daedalus Spinning Wheels Starling v3FP...
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