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BREAK-IN
Don't break into anyone's layout room to steal their B-units. Or any units for that
matter! We'll send some of our front-office staff after you if you do. Don't believe us?
You should hear the threats we get from Lystra when she doesn't get her way! So just
buy more for yourself. LOTS MORE! But this isn't about that kind of break-in.
Every locomotive needs a break-in period. Your F7B/F9B is no different and has
been tested at our factory for about a minute ... maybe. Just long enough to know
that everything is assembled and working right. But that is not enough time to get the
gears to mesh nicely or to even out any jerky operation in a new motor. We suggest
that, after reading this manual, you put your F7B/F9B on a test loop and just let it
run in each direction for an hour or two. Fast and slow. Actually, don't wait until
you're done reading the manual. Put it on the track now! Start running it and let it run
while you continue reading the manual. There already should be enough grease in
the gearbox so you don't need to add any. Just let the thing run and keep reading.
MINIMUM RADIUS REQUIREMENTS
Being a reasonably small, 4-axle unit, the F7B/F9B will have no problems navigating
18" radius curves and #4 crossovers. If you want to run passenger trains on anything
tighter, try rapid transit modelling. I hear streetcars can go around pretty tight corners.
Even though our model has sprung buffer plates, the F7B/F9B very much prefers
broader curves, especially if coupled to another unit or to a full-length passenger
car. For tight-radius curves, we include an extra-long long-shank coupler in the box
to prevent interference with the rear buffer.
CHANGING THE COUPLERS
Changing the couplers is very straightforward. Place a white tablecloth on your
workbench or kitchen table. Place a foam cradle (available from Micro-Mark,
product #80784 or ESU, product #41010) or that CP-branded hand towel you stole
from the Chateau Lake Louise on top of the table cloth and lay the F7B/F9B on
its roof. Use a small Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the coupler box and slide it
out without destroying the surrounding details, especially the yokes surrounding the
couplers. Should the yoke break off, be sure to use the most colourful of language in
the ensuing tirade. Snap the lid off, replace the coupler, and snap the lid back on.
Slide the coupler box back in and replace the screw. Pick up the F7B/F9B and look
around the white tablecloth for all the little roof details that may have fallen off. If you
used the CP towel, look near the "P." Glue them back on with white glue. Hey – don't
say we didn't warn you! And on that note...
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