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Table of Contents
Summary of Contents for LASER ARTS QF-2 DLG
- Page 1 50” Built-up Discus Launch Glider Span: 50”, Wing Area: 1.88 sq ft, Weight: 6.5 to 7.5 oz, Wing Loading: 3.46 to 4.0 oz/sq ft Designed by Paul Daniels Kit by Laser Arts Instructions Version 1.0, December 22, 2005 Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 2 15 or 30 Minute Epoxy Epoxy finishing resin (or thinned out 30 minute epoxy), or Minwax, or CA for fiberglassing the tails. Plastic Wrap or Wax Paper X-Acto Knife and Blades Razor Plane and Sandpaper Clamps Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
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Page 3: General Information
GENERAL INFORMATION: Thank you for purchasing the Laser Arts QF2 DLG kit. The QF2 was designed by Paul Daniels. You can see the development of this glider and find more information about Paul and his other designs on his web site at www.pldaniels.com/flying/... -
Page 4: Fuselage Assembly
Glue the other side to the assembly from the previous step. Make sure that the formers are sitting flat on the table and that the sides are vertical. Remove the 1/8” balsa F1 from the parts sheet. Glue F1 into place, making sure that the fuselage assembly remains straight while you glue it in place. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts... - Page 5 Glue the 1/8” balsa bottom to the fuselage assembly as shown below. If there is a little extra material, it should extend in front of Glue the ¼” boom reinforcement blocks into the fuselage as shown in the image below. PLEASE NOTE that the boom is shown as reference only, do NOT glue the boom in yet. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 6 12. Glue 2 of the 1/8” balsa FRONT wing mount parts with holes in them together (engraved with “WM”). Glue the other 2 1/8” balsa REAR wing mount parts (without holes) together. Make sure you get them glued together with the outside edges flush. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
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Page 7: Tail Assembly
After the tail parts are covered with the fiberglass, sand the tail parts smooth. (wear a mask to prevent breathing fiberglass dust) Don’t sand the fiberglass off, but make sure you get rid of the bumps and extra weight. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts... - Page 8 Use thin CA on the corners to make sure you have a good glue joint here. Be careful not to wick the thin CA too close to the bevel as that may reduce the bonding of this part to the boom later on. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 9 18. Glue the other grooved ¼” balsa pieces from step 13 to the vertical fin as shown in the image below. It goes on the LEFT side if you are RIGHT handed or on the RIGHT side if you are LEFT handed. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 10 Re-insert the boom and make sure everything is lined up as before. Allow the glue to set, making sure that everything stays aligned while it sets. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 11 Make sure you apply enough to wet it out. If you get too much on there, you can remove some of it using paper towels and blotting it off. You may need to cut small slits in the fiberglass to let it conform to the nose block. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
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Page 12: Building The Wing
Cut the remaining CF strip from the 24” piece into 4 separate 5” pieces. Mix up some 15 or 30 minute epoxy and spread it on one side the 1/8” balsa wing brace parts. Lay the CF strips on the wing brace parts as shown below. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts... - Page 13 10. Glue the lower wing spars to the sheeting as shown, making sure that everything is FLAT and that the spar is flush with the rear of the wing sheeting, and flush with the inside of the wing sheeting, with the excess out towards the tip. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 14 12. Press the trailing edge into place, starting with the outside trailing edge piece, then the inside as shown in the image below. Make sure everything is flat against the building table and use thin CA to secure the ribs to the trailing edge. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 15 1/16” scrap as spacers to hold the sheeting up between the ribs. 15. Glue in place the front part of rib 1A as shown in the image below, making sure it is vertical to the wing sheeting. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 16 Lightly sand it if you need to for it to fit properly. Also sand the front surface so it fits flush between the front and back of the spars as it will be slightly too thick without sanding. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 17 Make sure everything is pressed together, flush with the spars, and that the front joiner is pressed against the wing bottom sheeting, and use clamps to hold everything in place while the epoxy dries. Also make sure that the trailing edges and leading edge sheeting come together. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 18 Make sure the center section is flat while gluing these into place! Glue the smaller laminated rectangles into place as shown in the image below; making sure it is flush with the front wing brace. 29. Glue the front and rear 1A ribs into place against the center blocks. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 19 35. Bevel the inside front of the leading edge top and bottom sheeting to match the V-cut in the ribs. You can do this with sandpaper or VERY carefully shave it with a sharp razor blade. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
- Page 20 Rough up the Carbon Fiber throwing peg in the center with sandpaper and round off the ends. (DO NOT BREATHE THE CF DUST!!!!) Insert the CF peg through the hole and glue with epoxy. If you’re right handed, the peg goes in the left wing. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...
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Page 21: Mounting The Wing
Make sure the servo plate fits in the servo area of the fuselage. Trim/sand it if needed to fit properly against the fuselage floor. (You can also install the servos without the plate by using a strong thin double sided tape or similar. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts... - Page 22 When the plane begins slowing, push over to level out before it stalls. You want to have a little energy to move out, but not too much that you waste your launch height. Copyright 2005 Laser Arts...