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Summary of Contents for TURNABOT SLIPPER

  • Page 2 150g combat robots are known as “Fairyweight” in the US and “Antweight” throughout the rest of the world. Slipper is quite competitive “out of the box” and can be upgraded to be a serious contender in almost all 150g competitions.
  • Page 3 ! Safety ! First and Always ! Turnabots are among the safest combat robot kits available. *HOWEVER* There are still several things to be aware of: Assume that ALL electronic Lipo batteries can be VERY dangerous. joints and components Charging should ONLY be done in a Lipo have exposed lead.
  • Page 4 Often a later step clarifies earlier steps. These instructions will cover every single step in properly assembling your Slipper Kit. There are 3 sections to these instructions; each page is bordered by the below colors...
  • Page 5 Tools – Required and Useful Pre-Soldered Kit Standard Kit Required: Required: 1. Small Phillips Screwdriver 1. Soldering Iron / Station – at the very least you’ll want 2. 1.5mm hex (allen) driver (key) something with adjustable temperature and a small tip 2.
  • Page 6 Assembly is very straightforward (you can do it) Every single step will be covered in these instructions. If you have the Pre-Soldered Kit, start by laying out the parts. (If you have a Standard Kit, go to page 12) Yours may be different colors than the below images, but you’ll have the same shape parts. 1.
  • Page 7 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 1/7 Micro Servo Adapter installation: 1. If the Micro Servo Adapter does not have a split at the bottom you may want to snip it at the indicated location. 2. Place the Micro Servo into the...
  • Page 8 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 2/7 Charging Port/Battery Installation: 5. Insert the battery charging connector into the mount. This can be a bit tricky, but it’s worth making charging easy. 6. Place the Battery into the Chassis with the wires tucked into the front corner.
  • Page 9 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 3/7 Electronics Assembly Installation: 6. Place the Electronics Assembly into the Chassis. 7. Make sure the gearboxes seat securely into the pockets. Ensuring that the switch is in the OFF position (on the side with the missing leg, Left in this image) connect the Battery and the servo cable.
  • Page 10 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 4/7 Radio / Servo setup: 9. At this point in the assembly of any bot, BEFORE installing the wheels and servo horn and hard-mounting the servo, it’s a good idea to make sure that the bot won’t run away or put the servo horn...
  • Page 11 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 5/7 Motor (optionally Wheels) installation: 13. With the Servo Horn properly installed and the End Points set to ensure a safe servo range, install the Servo horn Screw. Install the Zip Ties to the motors. 14. You may want to use pliers and “roll”...
  • Page 12 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 6/7 Flipper Assembly and installation: 16. Assemble the flipper. The arms are printed to have Left Right Arms, the side that was on the printer bed has a slightly smaller hole which helps retain the aluminum rod.
  • Page 13 Pre-Soldered Slipper Assembly Page 7/7 Armor Installation: 22. The Turnabot should look like this. 23. Install the Top Armor, with the last 2 M2x6 screws and the Right Armor Left armor with the 4 Phillips screws. 24. BATTLE!!!
  • Page 14 Assembly is very straightforward (you can do it) Every single step will be covered in these instructions. With the Standard Kit, start by laying out the parts. Yours may be different colors than the below images, but you’ll have the same shape parts. 1.
  • Page 15 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 1/23 Micro Servo Adapter installation: 1. If the Micro Servo Adapter does not have a split at the bottom you may want to snip it at the indicated location. 2. Place the Micro Servo into the...
  • Page 16 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 2/23 Charging Port/Battery Installation: 5. Insert the battery charging connector into the mount. This can be a bit tricky, but it’s worth making charging easy. 6. Place the Battery into the Chassis with the wires tucked into the front corner.
  • Page 17 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 3/23 Placing components 1/2: 5. Place the components to prepare for wire trimming. First Insert the motors. We make a general practice of having “Plusses Up” to make it easier to see when installed. It helps know where the wires go.
  • Page 18 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 4/23 Placing components 2/2: 7. A dot of Blu-Tak under the motor connectors is very helpful for wiring. Place the Malenki-Nano between the right motor and the battery as shown. 8. Connect the male and female ends of the two motor connector wires.
  • Page 19 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 5/23 Trimming Motor Connector Wires 1/2: 10. Trim the four motor connector wires flush to the motor caps. This will allow you to solder the wires to the sides of the motor terminals, making as strong of a connection as possible.
  • Page 20 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 6/23 Trimming Motor Connector Wires 2/2: 11. Trim the motor connector wires to the FAR side of the appropriate solder rings on the Malenki. Leave enough wire to go through each solder ring. You can always trim extra later.
  • Page 21 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 7/23 Trimming Battery / Switch Wires: 12. To ease battery swaps the wires from the battery and switch are routed along the corner of the bot, then to the Malenki. The cut portion of Wire is routed along the corner and then to the B+ solder ring.
  • Page 22 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 8/23 Trimming Servo Connector Wires 1/2: 14. Route the Servo Connector Wire across the back of the bot. Trim the Red Wire flush with the B+ solder ring on the Malenki. 15. Trim the Brown Wire (or Black) flush with the solder ring on the Malenki.
  • Page 23 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 8/23 Trimming Servo Connector Wires 2/2: 16. Trim the Orange Wire (signal wire) flush with the far side of the solder pad closest to the solder rings. 17. The trimmed harness in the bot should look like the below image.
  • Page 24 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 9/23 Wire Lengths: 18. If you would prefer, you can cut your wires to the lengths visible in the images on the right. (You are reading this before starting, right?) You can see the lengths of the Left Motor...
  • Page 25 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 10/23 Strip all the wires: 19. Strip all exposed wire ends 1-2mm. Including the Left Motor Connector, the Right Motor Connector, the Servo Connector, the JST Battery Connector and the Cut Red Wire from Switch to Malenki.
  • Page 26 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 11/23 Tinning (Do NOT tin the Malenki): 20. Start by putting flux on ALL 15 of the wire ends, the 2 Switch Terminals, and all 4 of the Motor Terminals. (Flux is very sticky, take care not to get it on anything you don’t want it on.
  • Page 27 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 12/23 Solder the wires to the components: 23. Solder the Motor Connectors to the Motors, The Left is offset toward the back of the bot, the Right is offset toward the front of the bot. There are details on the...
  • Page 28 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 13/23 Solder the Switch: 24. The switch is near the front of the bot, meaning it can take a lot of impact. You’ll want to heavily tin the terminals to create a strong joint. 25. With well-tinned terminals and wires, hold them to give maximum contact areas.
  • Page 29 Power (Red) and Ground (Brown) connect to the Front. The B– (Black), Switch Power (Red), and Servo Signal (Yellow) connect to the Back. Note that Slipper does not use the Weapon (W) ports. The servo Signal wire (Yellow) is connected solder pad...
  • Page 30 (There are many great soldering videos on YouTube that are well worth watching if you are new to soldering. The Turnabot Soldering Videos will be released ASAP.) 30. With well-tinned motor wires securely and safely held through the through-holes, use the iron to heat...
  • Page 31 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 16/23 Solder the Left Motor Wires to the Malenki: 32. The Left Motor wires go through the “L” “Solder- Rings” / “through-holes” with the Red Wire closest to the “L” on the Malenki. 33. With well-tinned motor wires securely and safely...
  • Page 32 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 17/23 Solder the Power and Ground to the Malenki: Image below: Cut Red Wire and the Black wire from the JST Battery Connector (B+) route to the corner before going to the Malenki to simplify battery swaps.
  • Page 33 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 18/23 Solder the Servo wires to the Malenki: * Note * it’s helpful to have the Malenki on the Blu-Tak. 38. The servo Ground Wire (Brown in these photos) solders to the joint of the Black Wire from the JST Battery connector though the PWR–...
  • Page 34 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 19/23 Solder the Servo wires to the Malenki: * Note * it’s helpful to have the Malenki on the Blu-Tak. 38. The servo Ground Wire (Brown in these photos) solders to the joint of the Black Wire from the JST Battery connector though the PWR–...
  • Page 35 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 20/23 You’re almost done! Radio / Servo setup: 41. At this point in the assembly of any bot, BEFORE installing the wheels and servo horn and hard-mounting the servo, it’s a good idea to make sure that the bot won’t run away or put the servo horn...
  • Page 36 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 21/23 Motor (optionally Wheels) installation: 45. With the Servo Horn properly installed and the End Points set to ensure a safe servo range, install the Servo horn Screw. Install the Zip Ties to the motors. 46. You may want to use pliers and “roll”...
  • Page 37 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 22/23 Flipper Assembly and installation: 48. Assemble the flipper. The arms are printed to have Left Right Arms, the side that was on the printer bed has a slightly smaller hole which helps retain the aluminum rod.
  • Page 38 Standard Slipper Assembly Page 23/23 Armor Installation: 54. The Turnabot should look like this. 55. Install the Top Armor, with the last 2 M2x6 screws and the Right Armor Left armor with the 4 Phillips screws. 56. BATTLE!!!