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GABLE ROOF CARPORT
RECOMMENDED
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
This document remains the property of FBHS (Aust) Pty Ltd
February 2019 – Version 2

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Summary of Contents for Fair Dinkum Sheds GABLE ROOF CARPORT

  • Page 1 GABLE ROOF CARPORT RECOMMENDED INSTRUCTION MANUAL This document remains the property of FBHS (Aust) Pty Ltd February 2019 – Version 2...
  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    Table of Contents Introduction Components Step 1a – Marking out the Perimeter of the Carport with Footing only Step 2a – Footing Set-Out for Concrete Block Pad Footing Step 1b – Marking out the Perimeter of the Carport with Slab Step 2b – Footing Set-Out for Concrete Slab Step 3 –...
  • Page 3: Introduction

    Due to the large range of sizes and styles available, it is not possible to prepare an instruction manual for all styles, sizes and models. The following instruction manual is an EXAMPLE of a 6m wide x 6m long Gable Roof Carport. Things to do before you commence construction a.
  • Page 4: Components

    Components TOPHAT EAVE PURLIN Step 1a – Marking out the Perimeter of the Carport with Footing only Measure the width and the length of the centerline of the block pad footing and ensure that it is equivalent to the centerline of the columns as per Engineering Plans. Measure the 2 diagonals from centerline to centerline of the block pad footing and ensure that the dimensions are equal, level and square.
  • Page 5: Step 2A - Footing Set-Out For Concrete Block Pad Footing

    Step 2a – Footing Set-Out for Concrete Block Pad Footing Mark and set-out the perimeter of the Carport with pegs and strings. In this example, the size of the carport is 6.0m wide x 6.0m long. Refer to Engineering Plans for the actual size and specifications of your specific job.
  • Page 6: Step 1B - Marking Out The Perimeter Of The Carport With Slab

    Step 1b – Marking out the Perimeter of the Carport with Slab The distance between the inside face of the SHS Posts is referred to as “Raft Dist”. This distance is equal to the span of the building minus 2 x ”Frame Dist”. The “Raft Dist” is equal to the measurement of an assembled rafter on the slab from RAFT POINT 1 to RAFT POINT 2.
  • Page 7: Step 2B - Footing Set-Out For Concrete Slab

    Step 2b – Footing Set-Out for Concrete Slab Mark and set-out the perimeter of the Carport with pegs and strings. In this example, the size of the carport is 6.0m wide x 6.0m long. Refer to Engineering Plans for the actual size and specifications of your specific job.
  • Page 8: Step 3 - Preparation Of Carport Posts

    Step 3 – Preparation of Carport Posts Check levels of footings and if required, cut posts accordingly to suit the building height requirements as the posts are supplied in stock lengths. Set-out and bore two holes at the top of the carport posts to match the punching (holes) detail of the Haunch Bracket.
  • Page 9: Step 4A - Post Sleeve On Base Plate Set-Out On Footing Only

    Set-out and bore two holes at the bottom of the carport post, 60mm from the bottom of the post to the first hole and 180mm from the first hole to the next hole. Holes at bottom of post are required for the post sleeve to be bolted to the post, Refer to “Base of Post”...
  • Page 10: Step 4B - Post Sleeve On Base Plate Set-Out On Slab

    Step 4b – Post Sleeve on Base Plate Set-out on Slab Using the set-out string marking the perimeter of the building as a guide, mark the position of the post sleeve on base plate. The post sleeve which is inserted to the bottom of the post is in on the sidewall by the flange width of the Eave Purlin plus 1/2 of the post size from the slab edge set-out.
  • Page 11: Step 5 - Fitting Of Rafters With Apex Bracket

    NOTE: The post sleeve on base plate comes in 4-hole. Refer to the Engineering Plans for the specifications of the post sleeve and the bolt. Step 5 - Fitting of Rafters with Apex Bracket Layout the rafters and apex brackets on the slab. Split rafters equally on 2 sides and stand on flanges.
  • Page 12: Step 6 - Fitting Of Columns With Haunch Bracket

    into position. Repeat procedure to the rest of the rafters. Stand rafter assembly side by side, measure and mark on the rafter the position of purlins based on the spacing specified on the engineering plans. Move aside for later use. Step 6 - Fitting of Columns with Haunch Bracket Layout Columns and Haunch Brackets on the slab, approximately at bay spacing distance.
  • Page 13: Step 7 - Fitting Of Eave Purlin To Column

    TIP: Layout the haunch brackets web face up to determine the Left and Right Haunch Bracket. Where the column attachment is on the left, it is the Left Haunch Bracket and where the column attachment is on the right, it is the Right Haunch Bracket. Step 7 - Fitting of Eave Purlin to Column Stand the SHS column on one flange side.
  • Page 14: Step 9 - Sidewall Frame Assembly

    Peel the protective plastic cover of the gutter. Fix the stop ends and rivet into position. Position the downpipe nozzle under the gutter and trace the inside of the nozzle with a permanent marker. Cut the holes in the gutter with tin snips, silicone, drill and rivet into position. CAUTION: Use caution in handling cut steel as it is extremely sharp.
  • Page 15: Step 10 - Other Sidewall Frame Assembly

    are not equal, adjust the wall frame until the 2 measurements are the same. Refer to “Standing the First Sidewall Assembly” to illustrate the location of the temporary tophat. NOTE: THE TEMPORARY TOPHAT CAN BE REMOVED ONCE STABILITY OF THE BUILDING IS ACHIEVED.
  • Page 16: Step 12 - Standing The Second Sidewall Frame Assembly

    Step 12 - Standing The Second Sidewall Frame Assembly NOTE: OTHER TEMPORARY BRACING REQUIREMENTS ARE OMITTED FOR CLARITY. RESPONSIBILITY FOR ENSURING STABILITY OF STRUCTURE REMAINS WITH THE BUILDER Step 13- Installation of Endwall Rafter Starting at the rear end of the building, carefully lift the Rafter Assembly to fit into the haunch bracket.
  • Page 17: Step 14 - Installation Of Intermediate Rafters

    NOTE: OTHER TEMPORARY BRACING REQUIREMENTS ARE OMITTED FOR CLARITY. RESPONSIBILITY FOR ENSURING STABILITY OF STRUCTURE REMAINS WITH THE BUILDER Step 14 - Installation of Intermediate Rafters Fix the remaining intermediate Rafters to the Haunch Brackets. Refer to “Installation Of Endwall Rafter”...
  • Page 18: Step 15 - Fixing Of Roof Purlins

    Step 15 - Fixing of Roof Purlins Lift the pre-joined roof purlins into the rafters to line up with the temporary screws of the rafters for the purlin location. Roof purlins to flush with the outer face of the rafters on gable endwalls. Attach the roof purlins with one screw per connection initially.
  • Page 19: Step 17 - Fixing Of Header Beam (Optional)

    Flanges not notched – This option is to have the webs of knee and apex brace attach to the webs of the rafter and column where open sides face the opposite direction as the rafter and column. Flanges notched – This option is to notch the flanges of the knee and apex brace, attach to the webs of the rafter and column where open sides face the same direction as the rafter and column.
  • Page 20: Step 18 - Fixing Of Roof Sheeting

    Step 18 - Fixing of Roof Sheeting CAUTION: Prior to fixing the roof sheeting into position, it is imperative to check that both side walls and gable endwalls are plumb and straight by using a string line along the inner face of the columns.
  • Page 21: Step 19 - Fixing Of Flashings

    Step 19 - Fixing of Flashings Fix all flashings with pop rivets or wall screws as required. Ensure that all flashings are completed using the correct fasteners as required. Ensure that all flashings are secure and watertight. Run a bead of silicone on the overlap and joints of flashings as required. Step 20 - Fixing of Gutter Refer to Step 8 “Gutter”...
  • Page 22: Completion

    Completion Make a final check of the completed structure. Ensure that all base cleats have been tightened down firmly. Ensure that all bolts are complete and tightened. Check that the roof and wall screws are complete and tightened. Remove the temporary tophats on 2 sides of the building. Brush the completed structure down including the roof with a soft hair broom to remove any swarf (metal dust and fillings caused by an angle grinder).

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