Andrew O'Malley DOTKLOK Assembly Instructions Manual

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D O T K L O K Assembly Instructions

www.technoetc.net/dotklok

Required tools / materials

• soldering iron

• solder

• wire strippers

• flush cutters / wire nippers / diagonal cutters

• multi-bit screwdriver

• small / needle-nose pliers

Optional tools / materials

• helping hands

• solder fan / defumer

• multi-meter

• solder sucker/vacuum

• solder wick

• lint-free / microfiber cloth

PART I: PCB ASSEMBLY

Your final PCB will look like this, once fully assembled

1 January 2015

www.andrewomalley.etsy.com

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Summary of Contents for Andrew O'Malley DOTKLOK

Page 1 D O T K L O K Assembly Instructions 1 January 2015 www.technoetc.net/dotklok www.andrewomalley.etsy.com Required tools / materials • soldering iron • solder • wire strippers • flush cutters / wire nippers / diagonal cutters • multi-bit screwdriver • small / needle-nose pliers Optional tools / materials •...
Page 2 TIP: the foam housing for the LED screen makes for a handy parts tray while assembling DOTKLOK. If your PCB is labeled “DOTKLOK 1.1” you will need to solder a wire across the JP1 pads in order for the board to work with the power supply included with your kit.
Page 3 1. Solder HDR1 (six pin, right-angle header, no polarity), with long pins facing out from PCB. Note, long pins facing out from 2. Solder SK2 (small, 8 pin chip holder) at IC2 and SK1 (large, 28 pin chip holder) at IC1, matching the notch of the chip holder with the notch on the PCB diagram.
Page 4 SK2 (small 8 pin chip holder) at IC2. Note, notch (dotted circle) faces left SK1 (large 28 pin chip holder) at IC1. Note, notch (dotted circle) faces left 3. Solder Q1 (16Mhz crystal, no polarity), C1 and C2 (22pF capacitors, no polarity, marked 220).
Page 5 Q1 (16Mhz crystal) with C1 and C2 (22pF capacitors) Solder R3 (10k resistor, no polarity, colour bands: brown-black-orange) and C5 (0.1uF capacitor with long leads, no polarity, marked 104), trim excess leads from back of PCB. R3 (10k resistor) and C5 (0.1 uF capacitor)
Page 6 Solder R1 and R2 (1k resistors, no polarity, colour bands: brown-black- red) and C3 (0.1uF capacitor with long leads, no polarity), trim excess leads from back of PCB. R1 and R2 (1k resistors) and C3 (0.1 uF capacitor) Solder R4 and R5 (2.2k resistors, no polarity, colour bands: red-red-red), trim excess leads from back of PCB.
Page 7 7. Solder CR1220 (coin cell holder). Note, coin cell holder must be placed so that the square edge points left. CR1220 (coin cell holder). Note, square edge points left Solder X1 (10 position screw connector). Openings MUST face outer edge of PCB. X1 (10 position screw connector) opening MUST be...
Page 8 X1 (10 position screw connector). Note, open part faces outer edge of PCB Solder C4 (10uF polarized capacitor), making sure (longer) positive lead (black side of cap) goes into square (left) pad. (Note: the negative side of the cap is marked with a silver/grey stripe); trim excess leads from back of PCB.
Page 9 C4 (10uF capacitor) longer (positive) lead (marked by the black side) MUST go into the square (left) pad on the board Solder HDR2 (two separate 8-pin upright headers) Short leads MUST go into the board for soldering; taller leads MUST face upright, coming up from top of board.
Page 10 As best as possible, ensure headers are soldered so they are straight and upright. You do not want them to be crooked Solder Q2 (32.768kHz crystal, no polarity). Important, push the crystal ONLY half way down into the board. Solder and trim excess leads from back of PCB.
Page 11 Once the crystal is soldered in the board, bend the crystal down against the PCB, so it covers the diagram on the Solder CN1 (power jack). Insert so that jack is facing outward from board. When inserting the component into PCB, the back and side leads can be bent to better hold it in the board.
Page 12 Solder the leads to the edge of the circular holes; note, the solder does not need to fill the hole, a decent solder connection just needs to be made Note how opening is facing out from board...
Page 13 DOTKLOK PART II: INSERTING THE CHIPS 1. Insert IC1 (ATmega328) into IC1 chip holder. Ensure notch on chip lines up with notch on chip holder. Make sure all pins are aligned. Note, chip pins may need to be slightly bent with pliers to ease insertion.
Page 14 Notch on chip must align with notch on chip holder. Make sure all pins are aligned before gently chip pressing the into place 2. Insert IC2 (DS1307) into IC2 chip holder. Ensure notch on chip lines up with notch on chip holder. Make sure all pins are aligned. Note, chip pins may need to be slightly bent with pliers to ease insertion.
Page 15 3. Insert coin cell into coin cell holder (CR1220), by slipping under metal tab. The “+” side must face upward when placed into coin cell holder. Note, writing or “+” side of coin cell must face upward when placed in coin cell holder...
Page 16 Note, inserted coin cell slips under metal tab with the “+” side of the cell facing upward PART III: TESTING THE PCB AND SCREEN You are probably anxious to test your newly populated PCB! However, before powering everything up for the first time, it is wise to do a visual inspection of the bottom of the circuit board.
Page 17 Test for continuity (or resistance) across the 5V and GND pads of the prototyping area If you do find a short circuit, you will need to hunt for and remove this short before proceeding; otherwise you will damage the board, the screen, and/or the power supply.
Page 18 B) Now, flip the screen over, face down, so you see the solder connections and electrical sockets. Screen placed face down so solder connections and electrical sockets show C) To attach the ribbon cable to the screen, place the ribbon cable so the connector pins are facing downward and the red side of ribbon cable is at the top.
Page 19 The DOTKLOK may take a few seconds to start up, this is normal.
Page 20 Plug the power supply into the board and plug the supply into the wall The display will show a simple time animation with hours and minutes F) Once you’ve ensured your screen works properly, you can unhook the power supply and remove the ribbon cable from the PCB. You should then use the white zip tie to bundle one loop of excess ribbon cable.
Page 21 Bundle one loop of excess ribbon cable with the zip tie provided III.2B Testing the Board & Screen – screens with chips on BACK The following steps are for the current Sure screens which have the chips and selector switch on the opposite side of the board as the LEDs. A) With the screen facing down, so the LEDs are not showing, ensure CS1, (pin 1 of SW1) on the screen is flipped to the up/on position and pins 2, 3, and 4 are all flush down.
Page 22 B) With the screen still flipped over, face down, connect the ribbon cable to the left connector (BR2), so that it extends leftward of the screen, and the red edge of the cable faces up/forward. Cable connected to BR2 Cable extends to left, and red edge is at top/front C) To attach the ribbon cable to the screen, place the PCB to the left of the...
Page 23 should show a simple time animation with hours and minutes. The KLOK may take a few seconds to start up, this is normal. A note about the power supply: only use a 5V supply as included with your kit, input voltages greater than 5V WILL DAMAGE the board! Plug the power supply into the...
Page 24 IF YOU PURCHASED YOUR KIT AFTER JANUARY 2015, YOU CAN SKIP THIS STEP, no notching necessary. Before proceeding with the assembly, you will need to notch out the top holes of the screen. This is done carefully with sharp wire nippers or a small saw. Due to a manufacturing discrepancy, this only needs to be done w/ the new Sure screens which have the chips on the back of the panel (opposite the LED side).
Page 25 PART IV: BUTTON PREPARATION Using the wire cutters, cut two 8” lengths of wire, two 7” lengths of wire, and one 3” length. Next, split the end of each into two halves. Each half should be about a centimeter (1/2”) long. Then, strip a few millimeters (1/8”) of insulation from the ends of each wire.
Page 26 Insert the split ends of the wire into the holes on the button; solder the connection 4. Solder the 3” wire to the sliding switch (B5) so that the wire is placed in the first two wholes on top the left. Note, the top is marked by the CSA logo.
Page 27 PART V: ASSEMBLING THE KLOK For this section, please refer to these DOTKLOK panel diagrams for hole identification:...
Page 28 1. Remove any protective sheets from the front and back acrylic panels. 2. Insert each ¾ inch screw (MS3) through the text-side of the back panel into the holes labeled “C”. The screw head should be face up on the text side of the back panel.
Page 29 Note, HDR1 on the PCB points to the 5. Flip the back panel over so the text-side is showing, then place each ¼ inch screw (MS1) into the holes labeled “E” near the rectangular slot. 6. Flip the back panel over (so no text is showing). Place B5 (sliding switch) onto the screws.
Page 30 7. Take the switch wires (no polarity) and insert one the wire into the first (top / closest to the CR1220 battery) slot and the second wire into the second (next closest to top) slot of the green screw terminal connector (X1). Tighten the connector screws with a screw driver, and make sure the wires are secured in the connector.
Page 31 9. From the test side of the front panel (marked with DOTKLOK text), insert each button with the 8” wire into the right-side holes labeled “B”. Then, flip the panel over to the backside (so you no longer see the text) and secure the buttons with the black, plastic nut by placing the serrated edge of the nut against the acrylic panel.
Page 32 wires are secure. Connect the B2 wires to the left- most openings in the green screw terminal connector 13. Connect the B1 wires (no polarity) to the next two openings (left-most, beside the B2 wires) in the green screw terminal connector (X1). Tighten the connector screws with a screw driver and ensure the wires are secure.
Page 33 14. Pass the wire from B4 under the PCB. Connect the B4 wires (no polarity) to the next two openings (left-most) in the green screw terminal connector (X1). Tighten the connector screws with a screw driver and ensure the wires are secure.
Page 34 17. Place each 1.5” screw (MS4) into the back panel (text-side showing) holes labeled “D”. Then, on the non-text / component side of the back panel, place each 1” spacer (S3) on to each screw, followed by each 0.125” (S4) spacer. Place each 1.5”...
Page 35 18B. For current Sure screens (chips/switch on back side) and short ribbon cable: Locate the screen with the connected ribbon cable. Connect the loose end of the ribbon cable to the PCB, ensuring the bump on the black connector is aligned with the HDR2 text on the PCB.
Page 36 20. Secure each screw with the 4-40 (N1) bolts. Note, the ribbon cable may push the screen up a bit while positioning. This is normal. Just press the screen down gently, yet firmly. Secure each screw with the 4-40 nuts 21.
Page 37 22. Align the top panel (DOTKLOK text showing) with standoffs. Place the black 3-8” screws (MS5) through the front panel (DOTKLOK text showing) holes labeled “A”. Place the black 3/8” screws into the front panel holes labeled “A” 23. Tighten the front and back screws (in the holes labeled “A”) with a screwdriver.
Page 38 27. Plug in the power supply and enjoy the fruits of your labor! Congratulations on assembling your DOTKLOK!! Show off a photo of your newly assembled DOTKLOK at: www.facebook.com/dotklok Support is available at the DOTKLOK forum: www.technoetc.net/dotklok/forum Thanks again for your DOTKLOK purchase, Etsy feedback would be greatly appreciated.