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Normally, your main drains should be centered in the hopper. You can position them differently
if you wish, but maintain the required distance.
• Dig a hole 12" deep, and about a 6" wider than the drain assembly. Position the drain
assembly and temporarily secure to the ground with rebar and tie wire at your desired
position.
• Make sure to set the height of the drain assembly to your finished floor dimension (refer
to the dig spec). This is done to the top of the drain body and not the trim rings/drain
covers.
• Make sure to level both drains (front and back) to the finished floor dimension.
• In order to protect the drains and screw holes from debris and concrete, you'll want to
duct tape over the top of the drain bodies.
• Dig a trench (wide/deep enough to fit the entire pipe) from the center of the assembly
at the connecting T, across the hopper, up the hopper wall, and under the pool wall that
is closest to the filter system. Run the pipe through the trench, under the pool wall, and
stub up above the expected level of the concrete footer for the wall.
• Cover the end of the pipe with tape or a pipe cap to prevent concrete from entering the
pipe when pouring concrete later.
• Fill in the remainder of the hole around the drains with sack crete up to about 2" below
the top of the drains. Typically, this is about even with the excavated pool floor around
it. This will lock the drains in place, and prevent movement in the event of some minor
settling or muddy ground conditions as well as many other problems associated with
drain movement.
• You can wait to do this in order to use the same concrete that you are using for your
footer if you wish but be careful that the drains do not get moved in the process.
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