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Raspberry Pi PICADE 3D Assembly Manual

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Summary of Contents for Raspberry Pi PICADE 3D

  • Page 2 Table of Contents 1. BOM 2. Preflight Check 3. Preparations 4. Assembly 5. Optional Features 6. Software...
  • Page 3 1x On/Off Button (with or without integrated LED) 1x 3" Speaker 4Ω (5W) 1x 30x30x10 Fan 5V 1x Raspberry Pi Camera Cable – 30cm (for the Display) Optional Parts: 1x Micro-HDMI to HDMI Cable (For External Display) x Bluetooth Gamepads (8BitDo tested)
  • Page 4 Some Bolts,Nuts and Stuff: 28x M3 Threaded Inserts (M3x5/M3x6) 36x M3 Allen Bolts SocketCap (M3x6/M3x8) 4x M3 Allen Bolts SocketCap (M3x20) 12x M3 Washers 8x M3 Nuts 4x RubberFeet Fancy Lights: LED-Strip or Neopixel Bars to Put behind the FrameBar for Cool Effects Filament: 1-1,5 Kg for the Complete Build (depends on Print Settings) Recommended Print Settings:...
  • Page 5 2 Preflight Check Before you begin, please check of all Parts and Tools needed are in Front of you. Printed Parts: 1 Baseplate [ ] 6 Cover_Backpanel [ ] Light_Tunnel* [ ] 2 LeftPanel [ ] 7 Display_Frame 3 RightPanel [ ] 8 Display_Top 4 FrontPanel [ ] 9 Joystick_Button [ ]...
  • Page 7 1 Nuts,Bolts etc. 6 Picade X Hat 11 Joystick 2 Magnets 7 Speaker 12 Buttons 3 Fan 8 On/Off Button 13 Wires 4 Raspberry Pi 9 7“Touch Display 14 Controller* 5 Micro SD Card 10 LightStrip/NeoPixel* 15 MicroHDMI-HDMI* [ ]...
  • Page 9 Tools you will need: 1 Allen Key Superglue 2 Tweezer Wires or Jumper Wires 3 Solder Iron 4 Deburring Tool 5 Side Cutter...
  • Page 10 Win32DiskImager requires an .img file extracted from the .img.gz image downloaded. You can use a program like 7zip to do this. For macOS: Raspberry Pi Imager, Etcher, Apple Pi Baker, or the dd command For Linux: Raspberry Pi Imager, Etcher, or the dd command MacOS/Linux users can optionally extract the .img image from the...
  • Page 11 If you want to enable ssh by default as well, you can create a blank file called ssh in the boot partition too. This is a 'flag' file and will be deleted during boot after ssh is enabled. When everything is finished, you can unload the Micro-SD Card from your Computer and put it into your Raspberry Pi.
  • Page 12 4 Assembly Part 1 - Preparing the Printed Parts with Threaded Inserts Before we start with the Assembly its neccessary to prepare our Printed Parts with the threaded inserts. So its time to fire up your solder iron and get those Inserts melted in. We need the following Parts: - Baseplate - Back-Panel...
  • Page 13 Go on with the Back-Panel with two Inserts for the Cover...
  • Page 14 The Joystick_Button Part gets a total of 5 Inserts...
  • Page 15 The Last Part Display_Top takes another 6 Inserts. 2 on each side Attention: Do not hurry on these steps, as the Tolerances are very tight and you get in Trouble if the Inserts are not Lined Up correctly.
  • Page 16 Part 2 – We need Buttons…. And Speaker….and the Joystick…..and POWERbutton :) For this Step we need all the Panels (If you chose the HDMI Backplate, we prepare this as well) and the Button_Joystick Part. The Buttons have a tight fit and do not clip in fully, in Case you wonder.
  • Page 17 Screw in the M3 Bolts for the Speaker and turn over the part Arrange the Speaker on the Bolts and put on the Washers if your Screws are long enough, otherwise screw on the nuts with the help of a tweezer to tighten them.
  • Page 18 The Left-Panel is holding our Power Button. Prepare it with the Wires before and screw it on tight. Wiring depends on the Type of Button.
  • Page 19 For the Joystick Part we need all the leftover Buttons and the Joystick. Clip in the Buttons like on the other Parts and take the M3x20 screws, Washers and Nuts...
  • Page 20 Put in the Screws and Flip over the Part to align the Joystick part with the connector near to the Buttons. Pro Tip: Take some Tape to hold the Screws in Place and to Prevent Falling off when Flippin‘ over.
  • Page 21 Put on the Washers and Nuts but not tighten them full. Flip over and adjust the Joystick to be centered in the Hole. After that, tighten the screws. Now put on the DustCover and Screw on the Big Joystick Ball. So lets start with the fun Part and bring it all together.
  • Page 22 Before screwing the Pi onto the Baseplate, gently screw those M3 screws through the Pi Holes. The Pi comes with M2.5 screws, so we have to widen them to fit M3 screws. Be very careful in this step as it can Damage your Raspberry Pi!
  • Page 23 After the Raspberry Pi was tight-fit in place we Plug-In the Display Cable. After this step we can Put on our Picade X Hat. If you Have some Heatsinks on the Pi (Recommended) dont push the HAT to much on the GPIO Panel as the Board may collide with the Heatsink which can produce a short.
  • Page 24 Part 4 – Display Preparation To Prepare our Display, we need 4x M3 Screws and 4 Washers. Optionally 8 Neodym Magnets if you want to hold the Display in the Case when its not tight fit. Put in the Display so the USB port is looking to the Right.
  • Page 25 Screw in the Screws with some washers. Add more Washers if your Screws are longer, so you don‘t damage the screen. Don‘t tighten them fully. Adjust the Display so it fits and then tighten one screw after the other. If you need the Magnets, just glue them into the holes. Watch out for the right direction After that it should look like this:...
  • Page 26 Part 5 – Put it all together After we prepared all our Parts needed, its time to assemble everything. First we start with the Backplate and the Side Panels. Screw in all the Bottom Screws. Do not overtighten. Plug in the micro-hdmi cable into port 0 (HDMI0) if you choosed to use the HDMI Out. Then go on with the other Side-Panels.
  • Page 27 Before we place our other parts, we should connect the Buttons to the Picade X Hat. Take the 4x Pair Cable from the Wiring Loom Kit and connect the Buttons to the correct Plugs on the Picade (Utility Header). Also Plug in the Power-Button. Be aware to the Polarity of the LED if you have a button with built in LED.
  • Page 28 As we need to Power the Fan and our Display. (If you are Planning to run the Lighting of the Sign from the Pi, add a additional Cable to Power your Light Strip) Its Recommended to build a Y-Cable for this. Take some Jumper Wires and solder them together like this: The Male Wires go into the Picade Hat and connects tot he Fan.
  • Page 29 Now its time to Put on the Display_Top Part. If you want some Lights for the Sign (you WANT that!! ) its time to prepare it with your favorite LED Strip or LED-Bar… Attach the Strip with some 3M Tape or Double-Sided Tape. Leave the Cable long enough and put some JST-Connectors on it for clean cabling.
  • Page 30 When the LEDs are in Place its time to marry the Part with our Prebuild Base. Screw in the 6xM3 Screws to stabilize. Tight the Screws when all are in Place so you can adjust a little bit. Its important that the insert nuts are placed very well. Halfway done.
  • Page 31 Now we have to connect the cables to our Picade HAT. If its too difficult to plug them into the headers, take off the Display_Top Part. Connect the Cables like its printed on the Picade Hat. Be sure to Check the GND Pin on the Joystick Cable. Put back on the Top Part in case you removed it.
  • Page 32 Take the Display Part and connect the Flat-Cable to the Display. The Contacts should be facing to you. Connect the Power Cable to the Pin-Header (GND and 5v) Now push in the Display to the Case. Start on the Top and take care of the cables not to slip in between.
  • Page 33 To finish this Step, just push in the Light-Sign and we are Ready to go. If you see some Light shining through the Case from your LED Strip, slide in the „Light-Tunnel“ Part (Printed in Black Filament) to Prevent Light Bleeding. If the LED_SignPart is too loose.
  • Page 34 If you see something on the Screen: Congratulations! You made it! To calibrate the Buttons and Configure Retropie Head over to: https://retropie.org.uk/docs/...
  • Page 35 To Configure the Picade X Hat refer to: https://github.com/pimoroni/picade-hat For more Information about Retropie visit: https://retropie.org.uk/ Donations: https://www.paypal.me/andre1289 Questions or Feedback Welcome: andre@superperf.de...