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Now onto the fun stuff… First, please ensure that nothing is missing from the Duck kit and that none of the contents have been damaged. If anything is missing or damaged please contact your place of purchase immediately to make arrangements for replacement parts to be supplied.
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Duck. These instructions are based in metric units but I have also tried to include the equivalent imperial measurement as much as possible.
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the tip). Use a straight edge (ruler) held against the wingtip to mark the correct width (25mm) and correct angle onto the balsa trailing edge and then cut along this line. 7. Repeat for the second wingtip using the other length of balsa trailing edge. Keep both remaining pieces for the elevons.
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In consideration of safety and durability, nothing should be installed or embedded in front of this line. NB: If you wish to use your Duck in combat competitions please consult your local rules for the minimum leading edge and nose setback requirements to ensure this distance complies.
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24. Position one of your servos so that its control arm is aligned with the line you just marked and one of its mounting lugs is touching the line setback from the leading edge ie. it should be as far forward as possible and orientated so that the servo moves directly...
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“x” for later reference and discard the remaining piece of the plug. 34. Using hot-melt glue (best), spray adhesive (sprayed into a puddle and then spread on) or 5 minute epoxy (not ideal), glue the base slice back into the bottom of the battery cut-out hole, creating a base for the battery recess.
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41. Glue the bottom slice of the foam plug into the bottom of the servo cut-out hole forming a base for the servo recess. Use the marks on its front side and top to orientate it correctly, ensuring a perfect fit. 42.
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52. Coil up the excess length in the leads and insert them (along with the electronic elevon mixer if used) into the recess you made next to the receiver. Slice off an appropriate thickness from the top of the remains of this foam plug to form a lid and glue it in place flush with the top surface of the wing.
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61. Then apply diagonal strips of filament tape to the wing as per the following illustration. 62. Go outside again and spray the entire top surface of the wing with spray adhesive. Let dry for about 5 to 10 minutes (or until aggressively tacky). 63.
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edge pieces and rotate it around so that it’s lying upside down on top of the wing with its leading edge flush with the foam sub-trailing edge. Use 3 of the 65mm (2 1/2”) long by 25mm (1”) wide strips of filament tape to attach the balsa elevon to the foam wing by wrapping around pieces at either end and in the middle of the elevon.
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81. It’s now time for covering. 82. Spray the entire underside of the glider with spray adhesive and let dry for 5 to 10 minutes (or until aggressively tacky). 83. Bend over the elevons and cover the hinge gap area using 48mm (2”) wide coloured covering tape.
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90. Install the Dubro E-Z connectors onto the control horns. Just use the re-useable nylon push-nut for now until its position on the control horn has been finalized. The second hole from the top is a good place to start. 91.
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BALANCING Correct fore-aft balance is achieved by adding lead to the nose of the Duck. You can use a large fishing sinker or sinkers beaten into shape with a hammer, lead flashing (thin lead sheet) rolled/beaten into shape, a slurry of lead shot mixed with glue, or even melt it yourself to the correct size and shape.
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Now determine where your glider’s 105. current balance point is. There are several ways you can do this. Manufactured balancing stands are best but you can also make your own by vertically mounting sticks of dowel into a base of wood with dowel ends sharpened...
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Too little movement and the glider will become unresponsive and also not very fun to fly. The correct amount of elevon movement for the Duck is determined by its balance point, the pilot’s skill level and the desired flight characteristics.
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“sweet spot”. Presuming it’s trimmed properly for level flight, when optimally balanced the Duck should tend to pull up only just a little (or hold course) from a 45 degree dive from altitude and require only a very small amount of “down” elevator control for level flight when flying inverted.
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