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Summary of Contents for bohm Stirling HB6
- Page 1 Stirling Engine HB6 Triangle-Sunlight and HB6 Tea-Time Instructions This document covers the following: Tools required Parts list Assembly in Maintenance Contact details: www.boehm- .com www.boehm- -shop.com info@ -technik.de...
- Page 2 Tools you will need to assemble your HB6 Triangle-Sunlight and HB6 Tea Time Temperature Stirling Engine: Cross-point screwdriver, Flat-bladed screwdriver, Elastic band, coffee/tea mug.
- Page 3 Bottom plate x1 Top plate x1 75mm O ring x2 Chamber Displacer Flywheel x1 wall x1...
- Page 4 Main pillar Piston Crank Yoke x1 Cylinder Hub/axle Gland...
- Page 5 Gland stem x1 Conrod Conrod bush x2 7mm ball-race 5mm ball-race bearing x4 bearing x1 3mm O ring x1 7mm O ring x1 13mm O ring x2 Chamber pillar x7 Bearing cup x1...
- Page 6 M2x6mm roundhead x2 M2x4mm roundhead x1 Yoke pin x1 M3x6mm countersunk x2 M2x6mm countersunk x7 M2x4mm countersunk x3 Bearing holder x1 Crank weight x1...
- Page 7 Slide the gland onto the gland stem, hold the stem between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand and roll the gland along the side of your right hand forefinger. As you roll it, work the gland along the whole length of the stem.
- Page 8 Fit one 7mm O ring into the groove in the bottom of the gland.
- Page 9 If you have solar (acrylic) plates you will need to remove the protective film from both sides of the top plate now. Once you have removed the film try to handle the plate by its edges, this will minimise fingerprints. Black (aluminium) plates do not have protective film.
- Page 10 Screw the gland into the top side of the top plate and fully tighten, you might need to wrap an elastic band around it for grip. Make sure that the O ring does not become pinched or fall out of its groove. If you have trouble with the O ring falling out you can turn the plate upside down and screw the gland in from underneath.
- Page 11 Fit one 13mm O ring into the groove in the bottom of the cylinder.
- Page 12 Screw the cylinder into the top side of the top plate and fully tighten, you might need to wrap an elastic band around it for grip. Make sure that the O ring does not become pinched or fall out of its groove. If you have trouble with the O ring falling out you can turn the plate upside down and screw the cylinder in from underneath.
- Page 13 Align the hole in the side of the main pillar parallel with the front of the packing tray and to the right as shown in the diagram and push the pillar into the hole in the tray. This will hold it still and upright while you perform the next few assembly stages.
- Page 14 Insert one 13mm O ring into the groove in the bottom of the pillar.
- Page 15 Position the top plate over the main pillar, with the underside of the top plate facing upwards. With the hole in the side of the main pillar aligned parallel to the front of the packing tray and to the right, the two holes in the plate must be aligned to the left, and the cylinder should be towards the back as shown in the diagram.
- Page 16 Screw the screws in until they both lightly touch the top plate, then fully tighten.
- Page 17 Remove the partially assembled engine from the packing tray.
- Page 18 Place the partially assembled engine over the top of a coffee mug. This will hold it still so that you can use both hands to perform the next few assembly stages.
- Page 19 Insert seven chamber pillars into the seven small holes in the plate; they should all be an easy fit. If you have solar plates the heads of the pillars will sit below the surface, if you have aluminium plates the heads will sit on the surface.
- Page 20 Position the packing tray over the partially assembled engine and align the hole in the bottom of the tray with the main pillar, gland and cylinder.
- Page 21 lower the tray down until it sits on top of the brass chamber pillars, the engine plate will fit inside the first step on the inside of the tray.
- Page 22 Hold the packing tray and engine firmly together so that the chamber pillars do not fall out of the top plate. Remove from the mug, carefully turn upside down and place back on top of the mug, with the main pillar inside the mug. The packing tray will hold the chamber pillars in a vertical position while you...
- Page 23 Wipe the chamber wall with a dry cloth to remove any fingerprints. Stretch one 75mm O ring over the rebate on one end.
- Page 24 Stretch another 75mm O ring over the rebate on the other end of the chamber wall.
- Page 25 Carefully lower the chamber wall and fitted O rings onto the upturned top plate. Make sure the O rings stay seated in their rebates, and that you do not dislodge any of the chamber pillars.
- Page 26 The top face of the displacer has been marked with a coloured dot near the centre.
- Page 27 One end of the gland stem is plain and the other has a small through it. The hole-end should point upwards in the next assembly stage.
- Page 28 Insert the gland stem hole-end upwards into the top face of the displacer; it will be a reasonably tight fit. You only need to push the stem in a quarter of the way for now; final positioning will be completed at a later stage.
- Page 29 Lower the displacer and stem into the gland. It should slide freely.
- Page 30 If you have solar (acrylic) plates you will need to remove the protective film from both sides of the bottom plate now. Once you have removed the film try to handle the plate by its edges, this will minimise fingerprints. Black (aluminium) plates do not have protective film.
- Page 31 With the underside facing upwards, lower the bottom plate onto the engine. Align the holes in the base plate with the chamber pillars and start inserting seven M2x6mm countersunk screws. Screw each screw nearly all the way in.
- Page 32 When all the screws are in start to tighten them, you might need to pinch each pillar with thumb and finger to stop it spinning while you tighten the screws. Work around the screws in the order 1, 3, 5, 7, 2, 4, and 6. Tighten the screws sufficient to hold the plate in place without any sideways movement, any tighter is...
- Page 33 The chamber pillars are deliberately short and will not touch the bottom plate. This is so that they cannot conduct heat directly between the two plates and retard engine performance.
- Page 34 Remove the engine from the packing tray.
- Page 35 Screw the bearing holder into the hole in the main pillar, you might need to wrap an elastic band around it for grip.
- Page 36 Fit one 7mm ball-race bearing onto the bearing holder and secure with one M2x4mm roundhead screw. The bearing has a dust shield on one side and is open on the other. The shielded side should face outwards after fitting.
- Page 37 Fully tighten the screw.
- Page 38 Fit the hub/axle into the flywheel. Screw in three M2x4mm countersunk screws a couple of turns each. The three holes in the flywheel and hub are spaced so that there is only one way that they will all line up together. This ensures the flywheel counterweight is in the correct position.
- Page 39 Screw the three screws in until they all lightly touch the flywheel, then fully tighten.
- Page 40 Fit two 7mm ball-race bearings into the recesses in the top of the main pillar. The bearings have a dust shield on one side and are open on the other. The shielded sides should face outwards after fitting.
- Page 41 Slide the axle through the bearings. The axle should be a good fit but not tight in the bearings.
- Page 42 Screw the crank weight into the side of the crank a couple of turns.
- Page 43 Slide the crank onto the end of the axle. The crank should be a good fit but not tight on the axle. Note: the screw on the end of the crank weight must screw onto the small flat on the end of the axle.
- Page 44 Make sure the crank weight is square on the axle flat, then fully tighten. You might need to wrap an elastic band around it for grip.
- Page 45 Gently push the flywheel back and forward, there should be a small amount of movement here. If there is not, slacken the crank weight, move the crank out a fraction and tighten. Make sure that when tightening the crank weight again it stays located on the small flat section on the axle.
- Page 46 Give the flywheel a sharp spin; it should keep spinning for several minutes. If it does not then you will need to go back and move the crank out a fraction more.
- Page 47 Fit one 3mm O ring onto the yoke pin.
- Page 48 Fit one 7mm ball-race bearing into the yoke cup. The bearing has a dust shield on one side and is open on the other. The shielded side should face outwards after fitting.
- Page 49 Insert the pin and O ring into the bearing and cup. Slide it all the way on so that the O ring sits against the bearing.
- Page 50 Fit the pin & cup into the hole into the top of the yoke.
- Page 51 Slide one 5mm ball-race bearing over the end of the yoke pin and fit it into the hole on the back of the yoke.
- Page 52 Fit the yoke sub-assembly onto the crank. The rounded slot at the bottom of the yoke fits over the bearing on the bearing holder. Do not attempt to tighten the yoke pin until the bearing is in the yoke slot.
- Page 53 Fully tighten the yoke pin.
- Page 54 Fit one conrod onto one conrod bush and secure with one M2x6mm roundhead screw. The screw only needs screwing in a couple of turns at this stage. Repeat for the second conrod. Note: the hooks on the bottoms of the conrods should be aligned as shown in the diagram.
- Page 55 Screw the screws in until they just touch the bushes. Do not over-tighten or you could cause the bushes to expand and pinch the conrod eyes, which could prevent your engine from running.
- Page 56 Fit the hook on the first conrod through the hole in the top of the gland stem.
- Page 57 Screw the conrod screw into the hole in the inside face of the yoke. Tighten only sufficient to lock, over-tightening will cause the conrod bush to expand and pinch the conrod eye, which could prevent your engine from running.
- Page 58 Gently press downwards on the top of the gland stem with the side of a flat screwdriver until the end of the yoke and conrod are at their lowest position. This will press the stem into the displacer and set the displacer to its correct position in the chamber.
- Page 59 Slowly rotate the flywheel to move the displacer up and down in the chamber. Check that it does not touch the bottom plate. If it does touch you can go back and press the top of the gland stem some more. Note, the chamber wall and 75mm O rings are shown cut away for clarity.
- Page 60 Check that the displacer does not touch the top plate. If it does you will need to unscrew the top of the conrod from the crank, leave it hooked in the gland stem and use it to pull the stem up in the displacer a small amount. Be careful not to bend the hook on the bottom of the conrod when doing this.
- Page 61 Fit the hook on the second conrod through the hole in the top of the piston.
- Page 62 Slide the piston and conrod into the cylinder. Some air pressure should be felt as you slide it in.
- Page 63 Screw the conrod screw into the hole in the inside face of the yoke. Tighten only sufficient to lock, over-tightening will cause the conrod bush to expand and pinch the conrod eye, which could prevent your engine from running.
- Page 64 Your engine is now fully assembled. Check that the flywheel rotates fully, a small amount of resistance will be felt on rotation due to the air pressure inside the main chamber. Check the piston does not bump into the bottom of the cylinder and re- check the displacer does not bump into either plate.
- Page 65 The engine is not self-starting; you will need to give the flywheel a little spin to get it going. After the engine has been on your heat source for half a minute to a minute gently spin the wheel and it should carry on running.
- Page 66 The engine only requires a very small temperature difference between the top and bottom plates to operate, anything hotter than hot water WILL damage it. DO NOT place it on any high temperature heat source (cooker, wood burning stove, candle etc.). This will melt a number of parts on the engine.
- Page 67 If your engine stops suddenly after a few revolutions the main axle ball-race bearings might need cleaning. Disassemble your engine (by following the assembly instructions backwards) until you gain access to the bearings. Remove them and rinse in Methylated spirit or Denatured alcohol. Then either blow dry with compressed air or allow to dry naturally on an absorbent cloth or...
- Page 68 If your engine is running slower than usual you might need to clean the piston and cylinder. Unscrew the conrod screw from the yoke and slide the conrod and piston out of the cylinder. Wipe the piston with a paper towel and clean the inside of the cylinder with a rolled up paper towel or cotton bud.
- Page 69 If your engine is running slower than usual you might need to clean the gland stem. Rotate the flywheel until the displacer stem is at its highest point, and wipe the stem with a cloth. Make sure there are no stray fibres from your cloth left on the stem.
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