Related Manuals for J&H Saturno V3.6
Summary of Contents for J&H Saturno V3.6
- Page 1 Saturno V3.6 P-30 Endurance model J&H Aerospace www.jhaerospace.com Alexandre Cruz’s contest winning P-30, optimized for laser cut precision assembly...
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Page 2: Building Instructions
Saturno V3.6 J&H Aerospace Building Instructions Congratulations on your purchase of the Saturno! You are about to build a high performance rubber model capable of competitive, long flights. This is a full kit containing all parts necessary for rigging a fuse dethermalizer equipped competition model. - Page 3 Building the Saturno You will need a large, flat surface to build your model successfully. We recommend a large piece of foam or a suspended ceiling tile, as these surfaces readily receive pins required to hold the components down during assembly. Before beginning construction, be sure to acquire the materials and tools necessary to complete your model.
- Page 4 Lay parchment paper over you plans to avoid getting components stuck to the plans. Begin building by laying out the fuselage sides as shown over the plans. For best results, build the second fuselage right over the first. This method will require you to separate the sides later using a razor blade, but it provides virtually identical fuselage sides.
- Page 5 Once you have completed the fuselage sides, assemble the fuselage jig as shown. This device will allow you to easily jig the sides together into a straight fuselage. Slide the fuselage sides into the jig and begin adding cross pieces to join them together as shown. If you stagger the cross piece stations relative to the jig frames, you can avoid gluing the fuselage to the jig.
- Page 7 Carefully remove the fuselage from the jig. You may have to slit some of the jig formers to slide the fuselage completely out. Join the rear of the fuselage together and add the rear gussets (long thin triangles) and cross pieces as needed.
- Page 8 Add the pylon rails as shown, making sure to align them with the curvature of the top of the pylon. Cut a pair of ½” long lengths of 1/32” piano wire and press them into the front and back of the pylon as shown, securing them with thin CA glue.
- Page 9 It is now time to begin building the wing. The wing is built in four separate panels, and the inner panels are different lengths. Pay close attention to this assembly process. Match the dihedral breaks to the ribs so that the inner dihedral ribs are angled less than the outer dihedral ribs.
- Page 10 The leading edge is now added. And finally remaining ribs are installed. Lastly, the spars are added. You will need to flip the panel upside down to add the bottom spar. Note that many of the spars are keyed to the wing and must be oriented correctly. The top and bottom spars are different to allow for dihedral.
- Page 11 Next, the right inner panel is assembled in the same manner. The dihedral mating faces should be sanded for a good match. The outer panels only use one dihedral gage.
- Page 13 The wingtips use doubled up outer ribs as shown which should be added after the spars are installed. Sand them to a smooth transition as shown after assembly. This is also a good time to give all of the wing parts a careful sanding. You can leave the undercamber supports in place for now or cut them out as you sand the wing panels.
- Page 14 Locate the plywood wing joiners and match them to the dihedral breaks. You can glue each joiner to a wing panel before beginning to jig the panels into place.
- Page 15 Once you have finished joining the wing panels and sanding the dihedral breaks and removing the undercamber wedges, your wing is complete!
- Page 16 Assemble the stab over the plans as shown. You may wish to sand the leading and trailing edges prior to assembly. The lower stab spar is added after assembly. Finally, the stab tips are installed and sanded to match the overall profile.
- Page 17 Take your time sanding the fin to an airfoiled section as shown. It is made from 1/8” balsa to prevent warps, but this means it is optimal to remove a lot of material as shown. Sanding to this fully streamlined section will both lighten your model and provide better yaw response.
- Page 18 Add the plywood rubber motor reinforcements inside the fuselage as shown. The stabilizer leading edge is held down using a Shocer style slotted mount. It is assembled from a layer of plywood and a layer of 1/16” balsa as shown. Attach it to the fuselage as shown.
- Page 19 The structure for your Saturno is now complete. Give the entire structure two coats of nitrate dope in preparation for covering. We chose to use polyspan to cover the fuselage, which required the use of Sig Stix It to provide a good heat activated bond.
- Page 22 Cut off another ½” long piece of 1/32” wire and insert it at the back of the fuselage as shown, securing with thin CA as shown. Also glue the vertical tail to the underside of the fuselage, aligning it with the fuselage centerline. The stab should now rubber band in place neatly as shown.
- Page 23 Drill the nose block as needed for a few degrees of down and right thrust and install the prop shaft and propeller. You can create a freewheeling bail using the techniques in the Technical Library at freeflight.org or you can just bend the end of the shaft over at 90 degrees like we did.
- Page 24 Verify that the wing rubber bands correctly in place as shown. Note that the pylon is rubber banded to the fuselage. Do not glue the pylon down yet! Cut a piece of 1/8” aluminum tubing to size as shown. It should be generous enough in length that if it slides to one side or the other a quarter inch or so, it doesn’t fall free.
- Page 25 Drill into the top of the fuselage below the stab trailing edge as shown to make a pilot hole for a 2-56 nylon incidence screw.
- Page 26 Carefully thread the screw into place. The hole should be deep enough to allow the screw to be 3/8” long and be screwed all the way down, maximizing your adjustment range. Drill a hole in the left wingtip for the dethermalizer line...
- Page 27 Clip a small snap swivel into the hole in the wingtip. Use a reliable fishing knot to secure the Spiderwire to the snap swivel as shown.
- Page 28 With the wing roughly positioned on the fuselage, tie a loop in the other end of the Spiderwire such that a slip knot around the rear peg will leave a couple of inches of slack in the line so that it does not pull the wing out of alignment. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to flare the end of a piece of ¼”...
- Page 29 Roll the tubing under a knife near the edge of your workbench as shown to cut off a ½” length at the flared end.
- Page 30 Drill a ¼” hole into the front of the wing pylon as shown to receive the snuffer tube.
- Page 31 Glue the snuffer tube securely in place. Insert and glue in place a ½” length of 1/32” piano wire behind the snuffer tube as shown to secure the wing hold down band in line with the snuffer tube so that the band will be fully severed by the dethermalizer fuse.
- Page 33 You can flare the ends of another length of ¼” aluminum tubing slightly shorter than the inner width of the fuselage to make a sleeve for the rear peg. A braided motor of 4 strands of 1/8” rubber will give you a solid climb and a very long motor run with the supplied propeller.
- Page 34 With the model fully assembled, rubber motor installed and tensioned, propeller in place, etc., locate the wing on its pylon so that the model balances at the location described on the plans or at a location you determine to be optimal for your flying style (consider the location shown on the plans to be the forward CG limit, as we have found that a surprising amount of incidence is required at this CG location).
- Page 35 Congratulations, your Saturno is now finished. Weigh it to verify that the completed airframe is at least 40g after balancing with clay or lead to achieve the correct CG shown on the plans. For contest flying, 4 strands (two loops) of 1/8”...
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