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PCS NOTE Resistor R11,R12 Resistor R5,R10 Resistor R13,R14 Resistor R1,R9 If you want your Optodist to close better for VCA duties use 10K on R9. However, doing this will lessen the distortion effect. Resistor 100K Resistor 100R Resistor 4.7M Diode...
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Step 1 Solder resistors. Resistors are not sensitive to mounting direction. R1 68K, R2 100K, R9 68K R8 skip this one, R13 10K, R14 10K R8 is unnecessary but present in all photos, don't solder it at all. On version 1.1 this is removed. R5 1K, R10 1K R11 10R, R12 10R...
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R3 100R R4 4.7M Step 2 Solder reverse polarity protection diodes. The stripe on the diodes must be on the same side as indicated in the silk screen. D2 SB130, D3 SB130...
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Step 3 Solder ceramic capacitors. Ceramic capacitors are not sensitive to mounting direction. C3 100nF, C4 100nF, C5 100nF, C6 100nF, C10 100nF, C11 100nF C2 100pF, C9 100pF Step 4 Solder sockets. Match the IC sockets indent (pin 1) with the silk screens. IC1, IC2 sockets.
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Step 5 Solder Electrolytics. Long leg is + (anode). C7 10µF, C8 10µF Step 6 Solder transistors. Match the curved side with the silk screen. Q1 BC557B Q2 BC547B...
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Step 7 Solder trimmer. Only 3 of the 5 holes are used, the extra 2 holes are for fitting trimmers with different appearence. TRIM1 2K Step 8 Solder jacks. J1, J2, J3...
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Step 9 Remove the nuts and washers from the potentiometers. Cut off the small metal tab sticking out indicated by a red circle below and solder them in place. Please pay attention that POT1, POT2 and POT3 is not placed in a linear order.
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The following 2 steps (switch and LED's) can be done at the same time if you wish. Step 10 Remove the nuts and washers on the switch. The nuts are very similar looking to the jack nuts but they are not the same. The jacks nuts will not fit on the switch but the switch nuts will fit on the jacks so be careful not to mix them up with each other.
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If you have Alpha potentiometers like the one on the left you place one washer under the panel and one nut over the panel. The last kits with theese pots were shipped in May 2014 and is long gone by now. If you have custom potentiometers like the one on the right you place two washers and one nut under the panel and one washer and one nut over the panel.
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Step 11 D4, D5, D6, D7 (LED limiter), D1 (orange) The long leg of the LED's (anode, +) goes in the square hole. Put the LED's in place (don't solder yet) and temporary mount the panel the same way as in the previous step. Carefully flip the module over.
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Correct the LED positions with your hands making sure each LED has slotted into their respective panel hole. Solder them in place. Step 12 Solder the keyed boxed power header. Pay extra attention to the direction. The triangle (pin 1) must be at the -12V side. In the picture below you can see the direction of the keyed opening in the boxed header.
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Step 13 Mount the IC's and optocouplers. The IC's indent or dot marking pin 1 must match the silk screen direction. Be careful not to cut the legs too short on the optocouplers. Make sure the Optocouplers dot match the dot/bevel marking in the silk screen.
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Step 14 Mount the panel. Use 8 mm wrench socket for the jacks and switch and 10 mm for the potentiometers. Switch: Only use one of the originally attached switch nuts and none of the original switch washers. Instead use the same washer model as for the jacks (included in the switch bag).
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Step 16 Mount the power cable. Red stripe at -12V. Finished module!
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Calibration Patch an audio signal with a relatively clean waveform that is easy to hear when clipping starts on, for example a sine. Listen to the audio signal. Turn up Gain fully CW (clock wise, right) position. Turn up Signal In to fully CW (clock wise, right) position. Turn down Gain CV fully CCW (counter clock wise, left) position.
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