1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Quantum Manuals
  4. Boat
  5. STAR 2003
  6. Tuning manual

Quantum STAR 2003 Tuning Manual

Hide thumbs
Table of Contents

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual
STAR
TUNING GUIDE
2003
Quantum San Diego

Advertisement

Table of Contents
loading
Need help?

Need help?

Do you have a question about the STAR 2003 and is the answer not in the manual?

Questions and answers

Related Manuals for Quantum STAR 2003

Summary of Contents for Quantum STAR 2003

  • Page 1 STAR TUNING GUIDE 2003 Quantum San Diego...
  • Page 2 Another result of this construction is that our sails will be more durable. These are some suggestions for tuning to get the best speed from your Quantum Star Sails. Following the Table of Contents is a quick set up guide that includes all the critical measurements.

  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS 1. Quick Set up Guide ..........1 2. Rig Tuning ............3 a) Intermediates b) Spreader Angle c) Shrouds d) Mast Butt e) Shroud Cars f) Jibstay 3. Mainsail Trim ............6 a) Mainsheet b) Outhaul c) Cunningham d) Main Traveler e) Boom Vang f) Mast forward adjustment at deck g) Sliding Mast Butt...

  • Page 4: Quick Set Up Guide

    1. QUICK SET UP GUIDE 1. Rig Tuning Intermediates - Between 73 mm (2 7/8") and 76 mm (3"). We suggest starting at 2 15/16" (75mm). Spreader sweep back - Set at 127mm (5") to 139mm (5.5") Shrouds - Uppers should be 23- 24 on the Pro Loos Gauge (31- 32 on the old silver Loos Gauge).
  • Page 5 3. Jib Trim Jib Shape - In most conditions the leech should trim to mark on spreaders (458 mm (18") off the side of the mast) with just a little shape in the foot. Jib lead fore and aft - The lead usually ends up about 2200 mm (86.5") from the headstay.

  • Page 6: Rig Tuning

    2. RIG TUNING Your rig pretty much gets tuned before the boat goes in the water. In this next section we pretty much describe what you need to do in the correct order. Both the intermediates and the spreader angle need to be adjusted before the mast goes in the boat.
  • Page 7 they sweep back more it will require a little more lower backstay but makes it easier to get bend in light air. If your spreader doesn’t come back as far on one side you will need less lower on that tack. Check that they are even with the same line from tip to tip.

  • Page 8: D) Mast Butt

    Shrouds cont... on the old Loos gauge). The new gauge tends to be more accurate from gauge to gauge but we have still found some that read as much as 2 units different. Be sure to setup the boat consistently when taking this measurement. First put 5 units on the backstays.

  • Page 9: Mainsail Trim

    two forward of the lowers. If you don't have a method of loosening the shrouds for downwind (with adjustable tracks, levers or a sliding mast butt) putting the uppers further forward will allow them to loosen more as the mast goes forward.
  • Page 10 previous experience and what input we are feeling at the time from the boat. If the tiller is telling us that we have too much weather helm maybe the mainsheet is too tight. Getting the trim right takes experience and experimentation. The mainsheet is similar to the jibsheet.
  • Page 11 As you discover the best trim for your main put a mark on the sheet for reference. If you have a double mainsheet look at the distance of the boom off the deck at the transom. When you go around the leeward mark or start the next race you can get in the ball park much faster.

  • Page 12: D) Main Traveler

    Outhaul cont... side let it off a little. Often when I have to start leaning in or I can’t keep the crew over the side, I’ll let the outhaul off a little. If you have a lot of chop then you also want to let off the outhaul a little.

  • Page 13: G) Sliding Mast Butt

    upwind, keep the aft end of the top batten parallel to the boom. F) Mast forward at deck Normally no mast lever needs to be used upwind. In light air some forward lever can be experimented with. When reaching only use enough forward lever to keep the mast from reversing, don’t induce any bend.

  • Page 14: B) Jib Sheet

    mast. It becomes quite simple because we trim to this mark in all but the lightest and windiest conditions where we may twist off a little more. The fullness is the other half of the formula. Judge the fullness by the foot. If the foot is too flat or tight, the cloth will roll up and even flap sometimes.

  • Page 15: E) Jib Lead Fore And Aft

    on the O-ring. If you don’t use the 2-1 purchase system then you gain even more room. If you don’t have the tracks sunk in the deck you have to sail with the jib a bit higher. Most older boats are set up using the lock on the side of the mast for the jib halyard balls.

  • Page 16: F) Jib Lead In And Out

    F) Jib Lead In and Out In most conditions, the jib cars should be set at 356 mm (14") from the center line (9.5 degrees). I have found that I rarely have to make a change from this mea- surement unless I overstand the mark. Even in the extremely rough conditions at the '88 Olympics we found that 356 mm worked fine although we learned that we had to sheet the jib a little looser.

  • Page 17: A) Track System

    A) Track system All boats built since the mid 80's have not used the track system but this is still a very good way to control the backstays. The tracks have the advantage of transferring load to the boat so they are easy to pull back. It is also easy to see on a jibe when they are back far enough to hold up the mast.
  • Page 18 I feel the Buchan System is the best. Going upwind the course adjustment stays set all the time. Any adjustment can be made independently with the upper or lower adjustment just like on the track system. Off the wind only the course adjustment is used so when you arrive at the leeward mark the backstays are just pulled back to the stops and you are set up just like you were on the last weather leg.

  • Page 19: Rigging A New Mast

    As you get overpowered then start to pull on the upper. When over powered I have found it very fast at times to pull very hard on the upper and the lower. This reduces headstay sag flattening the jib. With the looser intermediates some are sailing with higher upper backstay tension.

  • Page 20: Sail Care

    on your measurement certificate, if it isn’t the log describes how to measure it. Use this measurement by measuring down from the punch mark on the mast and make a mark on the mast which will be the bearing point of the mast on the step. Subtract for the butt plug length and cut off the extra mast.

  • Page 21: B) Folding And Storage

    Before raising the main hook up the jib tack, jib sheets and get the jib head out ready for the halyard. If it is windy we will raise the sails as quickly as possible and get away from the dock to prevent excessive luffing. To raise the main have one person feed the luff in as the other pulls the halyard.
  • Page 22 Please let me know how everything is going with your Star sailing this season. We look forward to adding you to our winning list. If you have any other questions regarding tuning, drop us an email or give us a call at anytime.
  • Page 23 Notes...
  • Page 24 Crewing in a Star By Magnus Liljedahl I always loved sailboat racing. There was nothing that I would rather do. To I always loved sailboat racing. There was nothing else that I would rather do. To line up on the starting line and then play the game is what it is all about. To succeed, you must stick with the sport for a long time.
  • Page 25 ing, biking, rowing and kayaking are some of my favorites. Stretching and main- taining a good diet are other important factors that you should make a part of your daily routine. You may want to consider a licensed Health Fitness Instructor i.e. a personal trainer.
  • Page 26 · Hoist the jib some and then continue zipping it up. If it is windy, your skipper will have to help you. As you lean up against the mast, hand the head back to him so that he can hook it up and start hoisting while you are holding on to the forestay, standing up, zipping the luff..
  • Page 27 · Try to find the weather mark before the start. This will be your job all day, so the sooner you will find it, the better off you are. · Look for the breeze and don’t block the compass as your skipper tries to find the favored end of the line.
  • Page 28 before you get around the weather mark, it will be of great help for your team. Keep looking back. You will eventually find them. As you approach the weather mark your job is now to find the offset mark. Is it up or down from the weather mark? Will we be reaching to it or is it going to be tight? Are we lifted going in to the mark or are we headed? This information will help in deciding what gybe will be favored on the run.
  • Page 29 will your competition. We have substituted the masthead fly with two pieces of yarn (each about six inches) on each shroud, below the spreaders. It is a good practice to keep calling the distance you are in front of disturbed air. This way you give your skipper has chance to “double check”...
  • Page 30 the mast back before you take the pole down is that it is a lesser chance that the jib will blow around the forestay. Pay attention to any course change as you get around the mark. Make sure that the leeward backstay is in tight. Be observant as always. Reaching: To be fast on the reach, spells hard work and proper technique.
  • Page 31 Once you cross the finish line, you may rest. Sail trim and boat handling: I usually trim the jib, keeping the leach at the band on the spreader. I do trim and ease a fair amount as we sail along. In general, if it isn’t too choppy, I will some- times sheet block-to-block (when both fully hiked).
  • Page 32 Quantum San Diego 2832 Canon Street San Diego, CA 92106 Phone: +1.619.226.2422 Fax : +1.619.226.0682 E-Mail: gszabo@quantumsails.com mreynolds@quantumsails.com...

Table of Contents