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Silver Wings CR.42 Build Manual

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This kit gives the builder the option to do either an Italian, German or Swedish version. Be sure to review the
instructions and highlight which parts you will need for the version you are building. Also note that I used standard
superglue for all assembling, with the exception of the struts, where I used slower setting superglue gel to give me
more time for adjustments.
As with other Silver Wings kits, parts cleanup is fairly simple, and due to the soft resin they use for their kit, a sprue
cutter can even be used to snip most parts from their pour stubs. After that, a few scrapes with the Xacto knife and/or
sanding stick and the part is ready for use.
With these kits, since there are no part numbers to worry about, I like to clean up all the parts and then begin the
build. The only exception to this is the struts. Any parts can be painted as appropriate after cleanup and before
assembly as well. A few things to note when preparing your kit parts for use:
Do not remove the number "tabs" from the struts (unless you mark them in some other way, such as a tape
tag) as the numbers are crucial in aiding proper strut placement. (Photo 1)
1:32 FIAT CR.42
BUILD GUIDE
General
Parts Cleanup

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Summary of Contents for Silver Wings CR.42

  • Page 1 Parts Cleanup As with other Silver Wings kits, parts cleanup is fairly simple, and due to the soft resin they use for their kit, a sprue cutter can even be used to snip most parts from their pour stubs. After that, a few scrapes with the Xacto knife and/or sanding stick and the part is ready for use.
  • Page 2  The wings have excess resin “rods” on the upper tips (see Photo 2), these must be removed as the outer wing should be smooth.  Check your fuselage framing for any breaks before you remove the pour blocks. You should repair any breaks with superglue before removing the pour blocks.
  • Page 3  Test fit your propeller to the engine block and enlarge the hole as necessary to achieve a good fit.  The cockpit sides have 3 frames that must be attached, and are placed in bags labeled "A"; "B" and "C" (Photo 4).

  • Page 4: Cockpit Assembly

    While the PE control levers fit into the slots in the side control panel, you may want to drill small holes to give them a stronger attachment point. Cockpit Assembly Cockpit assembly is shown on pages 2 and 5 of the instructions. If you've built any other Silver Wings kits, assembly should be familiar to you. ...
  • Page 5  I then attached the opposite side framing piece, starting at one end and moving towards the other to ensure the best alignment (see Photo 7).  I then added the upper rear framing (Photo 8) and finaly the upper front framing (Photo 9). Once complete, test fit the frame into the fuselage to be sure everything is lined up properly.
  • Page 6  Next, I attached the PE framing to the floor. I attached PE20 and PE21 and let dry (Photo 10). It would appear that PE22 is meant to be folded in half and then attached, but it was rather thick when I tried that, so I ended up cutting it in half and attaching it to the cockpit floor (Photo 11).
  • Page 7  Slide the floor into place, and then attach the PE side consoles as appropriate (see page 2 of the instructions) see Photos 14-17.
  • Page 8  I then attached the firewall subassembly to the front of the cockpit floor (Photos 18/19) rather than to the fuselage sidewall as shown on page 7 of the instructions. Fit was so good on mine I did not need to glue it, which gives the option to wiggle it should you need to for final positioning in the fuselage.

  • Page 9: Fuselage Assembly

     Attach the seatback to the upper cockpit frame using the flange on the seat. You should be able to move the bottom slightly to get it into position. Attach the rear cockpit bulkhead in position on top of the seat flange (Photo 20).
  • Page 10  As mentioned previously, I prefer to install the forward bulkhead to the cockpit floor rather than the fuselage halve as shown in the instructions  Attach the tail wheel (or trap between the fuselage halves if you want it to move) ...

  • Page 11: Engine Assembly

     Glue the fuselage halves together.  Attach the tail ski if you are building the Swedish version. Engine Assembly Engine assembly is covered in the upper section of page 6 of the instructions, although you can complete this step at any time during the assembly of your model.
  • Page 12  When set, I attached the front cylinders. Photo 26 shows them in position (as well as the drilled out pushrod holes in the crankcase).  Cut the pushrods (one or two at a time if you are prone to losing things like me) from their pour blocks and test fit it to the engine block/cylinder head by first inserting it into the drilled hole, and then pulling it up to meet the rocker on top of the cylinder.
  • Page 13  Once set, attached the intake pipes which fit to the left side of the cylinder heads (when viewed from the front) and to the manifold base.  Add the parts that goes on the bottom of the front of the engine block. ...
  • Page 15 Rear Empennage The rear empennage is covered on page 9. Note that you can install these parts at any time after the fuselage is completed.  I began by attaching the vertical stabilizer to the fuselage  I then attached the tail planes to the fuselage. Photos 32 shows the completed assembly. You can use the provided tail lamp, or I would recommend a piece of clear sprue for the tail lamp.
  • Page 16 Upper wings and wing attachment The upper wings should have 5mm of dihedral according to the instructions (page 11). As shown on page 10, you will need to join both upper wing halves to the center piece. As with the lower wings, I recommend you drill out the appropriate holes for the struts.
  • Page 17  Drill out holes for the inner cabane struts (parts IX, X, XI and XII) in the forward fuselage (see photo 35) and test fit the inner cabane struts using the clear wing template. I found I had to bend/push mine a bit to get them into the correct position.
  • Page 18 extra holes you see in the clear wing template are for the "N" shaped cabane struts, which it turns out are not needed for strength and can be added after the upper wing is glued in position.
  • Page 19  Once dry, test fit the upper wing into position. Add the outer cabane struts (parts I, II, VII and VIII) and when satisfied, glue into position (photos 39/40).  Once dry, you can add the "N" struts into position (photo 41).

  • Page 20: Main Landing Gear

    Main Landing Gear The main gear struts are shown being assembled on page 4 of the instructions, and shown being attached on page 12  Glue the two fairing halves together for each spat as shown on page 4, trapping the wheels between them (be sure to read the two following notes before doing so).

  • Page 21: Final Assembly

     When dry, attach to the underside of the aircraft using the gear support struts (photo 42) to align the gear in the correct position. Photo 43 shows the starboard side gear attached. Final Assembly  Insert the engine into the cowling. I did not find it necessary to glue in place. Attach the gun troughs (shown on page 6) in place after placing the engine in the cowling.
  • Page 22  Assemble the propeller as shown on page 11. Note that the spinner cap should rest on the prop hub as shown in photo 45.  Attach the PE instrument cowl (after bending into shape), headrest, windscreen and venturi tube in position as shown on page 9 if you have not already done so.