Summary of Contents for Oktober 7
- Page 1 OKTOBER CAN SEAMERS Model 7 Operation Manual Original Version. January 14, 2020 Oktober Can Seamers 5 Colfax St. NE, Grand Rapids, MI 49505...
- Page 2 SET-UP Check out the how-to videos on our website! To remove your seamer from its box, lift as shown below. It is heavy (~45lbs) so use caution while lifting. Locate your seamer on a flat, level tabletop or bar-height surface. Make sure there is enough room around the seamer to move around it easily.
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Page 3: Safety Precautions
!!!SAFETY PRECAUTIONS!!! -Since canning is likely to create a wet environment, make sure the flooring and footwear worn around the seamer is non-slip. -Always plug the seamer into a GFCI outlet to avoid shocking hazards. -Pay attention to things like loose clothing, long hair, etc. The can and upper and lower chucks will be spinning and can cause injury if anything gets wrapped around them. - Page 4 MODEL 7 SEAMER DIAGRAM...
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Page 5: Getting Started
The MODEL 7 Oktober Can Seamer is designed to seam aluminum beverage cans. Aluminum beverage cans come in many different sizes, and the model 7 can be configured to seal many of them. Cans with the same “end” size (can top) can generally be sealed using the same “tooling”... - Page 6 below. It is a good idea to run through the steps a few times without a can to get a feel for it. Helpful tip: The can-guides (two extended screws below the upper chuck) are designed to hold the can upright and in the correct position to close the splash guard door.
- Page 7 7. Once the roller makes contact, continue to rotate the lever until it stops. It should take 1-2 seconds for the roller to rotate between initial contact and the hard-stop.
- Page 8 Daily Maintenance -Wipe down the seamer with warm water and a rag to keep it clean of sticky residue. You can add a small amount of sanitizer or dish soap, but it is NOT suggested to use other cleaners. Warm water is all that is needed to break up sticky residues.
- Page 9 Our method of seam inspection requires a “tear-down tool,” some nippers or wire cutters, and a set of calipers. The tear-down tool and calipers are available on the Oktober website. When measuring the seam thicknesses, the calipers should be parallel to the inside taper of the can (as shown below), rather than parallel to the straight sides of the can.
- Page 10 Complete the first operation ONLY, remove the can from the seamer, and measure the first operation seam thickness as shown. First Operation Seam Thickness: Size 200 and 202 ends .074in - .078in Size 206 ends .074in-.078in Size 300 ends .104in - .112in Place the can back into the seamer and run the second operation.
- Page 11 Using nippers or wire cutters, cut a notch through the entire remaining seam. Pull the seam out of the can body as shown. Start from the notch that you cut with the nippers. Measure the “cover hook length” in at least 3 places around the inside lip of the removed seam.
- Page 12 Measure the “body hook length” in at least 3 positions around the perimeter of the can. Body Hook Length: Size 200 and 202 ends .055in - .075in Size 206 ends .060in - .080in Size 300 ends .072in - .088in -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------...
- Page 13 Calibration If any of the measurements from the seam inspection aren’t within the specifications, it may be time to adjust the seamer’s calibration. Infeed Calibration If the first or second operation seam thickness is incorrect, you can adjust them by adjusting the infeed adjuster screws (see diagram) The adjusting screws and their locknuts can be accessed with the back cover still attached to the seamer through access slots.
- Page 14 Vertical roller position The gap between the roller and the top surface of the upper chuck needs to be set to a minimum (see diagram above). Basically, the gap should be as small as possible, while allowing free rotation of the roller when it is engaged over the chuck (operation handle is against the hard stop).
- Page 15 Before adjusting the base force, make sure the wave spring and washers are located correctly inside the lower adapter (see MODEL 7 SEAMER DIAGRAM). To adjust the base force, first back off the lower base adjuster nut a couple turns.
- Page 16 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Changing Tooling To change between different end sizes, you will need to swap out the upper chuck, 1 and 2 operation roller assemblies, the base shaft assembly, and the can guide spacers. You will also need to re-calibrate the base force and roller positions (see instructions above).
- Page 17 This side faces out This side faces the inside of the housing -Place the new upper chuck into the bearings and housing. The chuck fits very precisely into the bearings but should slide in without a lot of force. Don’t force the chuck into the bearings or it can get stuck.
- Page 18 Roller Assemblies -Loosen both vertical adjust locking screws. -Remove the roller assembly retaining nuts and pull the roller assemblies down and out of the housing. -Rub a small amount of grease onto the roller assembly axle and place the new roller assemblies up and into the housing.
- Page 19 Other Maintenance Seaming Rollers: The bearings in the seaming rollers are oil-impregnated bronze bearings and are nearly maintenance free. If the rollers become sticky, they probably need to be thoroughly rinsed with water to break up the sticky residue. In extreme cases, you can remove the entire roller assembly out of the seamer and soak it in warm water (see diagram above).
- Page 20 lower the pulley to be in-line with the larger pulley. Tighten the screw, place the belt onto the pulleys, and test by spinning the large pulley by hand. If the belt stays on both pulleys it is aligned properly. If the seamer does not turn on, it may be because either the thermal overload switch (located on the bottom of the motor) or circuit breaker (white button located on the backside of the electrical box) has tripped.
- Page 21 Check to ensure that the wave spring and washer are located properly under the lower adapter (see MODEL 7 SEAMER DIAGRAM). The base force (clamping pressure) will not be correct without the spring in place.
- Page 22 Broken Handle If you do happen to break a handle off, it is easy to replace. Chances are, the broken threads are still in the roller housing. To remove them, use a small drill bit (1/8in works well) to “drill out” the threads. You won’t actually drill into the metal, but the bit will use friction to spin the threads out the other side of the hole.