DIYElectronics Prusa i3 Build Manual

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Prusa i3 Build Guide

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  • Page 1 V5 Premium Kit Prusa i3 Build Guide...
  • Page 2 Hi! Congratulations on your purchase of the DIYElectronics.co.za Prusa I3 kit, the best South African 3D Printer Kit! Hopefully this should serve as complete guide to get your printer setup and printing! This guide will start with a step by step mechanical assembly, followed by electronic wiring and calibration.
  • Page 3: Table Of Contents

    Contents [1] Y-Axis ..............................3 [1.1] Y Carriage – Sub-assembly: ......................5 [1.2] Y-Bed Undercarriage Sub-assembly ....................6 [1.3] Y-Axis assembly ..........................7 [1.4] Y-Belt Idler Pulley Sub-assembly ......................9 [1.5] Y-motor mount Sub-assembly......................10 [1.6] Y Motor Sub-assembly ........................11 [1.7] Y-Axis timing belt ..........................
  • Page 4: Y-Axis

    [1] Y-Axis...
  • Page 5 Front y-bed 624f gasket carriage flanged bearing Rear y-axis LM8UU gasket motor linear mount bearing M10x480 Bearing Nema 17 threaded holder stepper motor M8x475 y-belt M10 Nut smooth tensioner linear front y-belt outer holder Washer plate Front IEC mains inner and switch machine plate...
  • Page 6: [1.1] Y Carriage - Sub-Assembly

    [1.1] Y Carriage – Sub-assembly: Parts needed: • 1x aluminium carriage • 2x M8x 475mm smooth stainless steel rod • 4x LM8UU linear bearings • 8x printed bearing holders • 1x printed y-belt holder • 2x M3x 10mm ch screws •...
  • Page 7: [1.2] Y-Bed Undercarriage Sub-Assembly

    [1.2] Y-Bed Undercarriage Sub-assembly Parts needed: • 2x M10x480 threaded rod • 8x M10 nuts • 8x M10 washers Thread M10 nuts and washers onto the two M10 threaded rods as seen in the image above. Make sure that the distance between the outer washer on one side and the nearest inner washer is 155 mm.
  • Page 8: [1.3] Y-Axis Assembly

    [1.3] Y-Axis assembly Parts needed: • Y Carriage Sub-assembly • Y Bed Undercarriage Sub-assembly • Inner front plate • Inner back plate • Front printed gasket • Back printed gasket • 4x M10 nuts Assemble the Y-Axis by sliding the plates and gaskets onto the ends of the smooth and threaded rods.
  • Page 10: [1.4] Y-Belt Idler Pulley Sub-Assembly

    [1.4] Y-Belt Idler Pulley Sub-assembly Parts needed: • 1x printed Y-belt idler (Bearing holder) • 2x 624 flanged bearings • 1x M4x 25 machine screw • 2x M4 washers • 1x M4 nyloc nut • 2x M3x 20 machine screws •...
  • Page 11: [1.5] Y-Motor Mount Sub-Assembly

    [1.5] Y-motor mount Sub-assembly Parts needed: • 1x motor mount • 4x M4x10 machine screws • 8x M4 washers • 4x M4 nuts Fix the Y-motor mount to the rear inner end plate using 4x M4x10 screws, washers, and nuts as shown in the image.
  • Page 12: [1.6] Y Motor Sub-Assembly

    [1.6] Y Motor Sub-assembly Parts needed: • 1x Nema 17 stepper motor • 1x GT2 20t pulley (with 2 M3 grub screws) • 4x M3x8 machine screws • 4x M3 washers • 1x Allen key Fix the Y axis Nema 17 stepper motor to the motor mount using four M3x10 machine screws with washers as seen in the picture above.
  • Page 13: [1.7] Y-Axis Timing Belt

    [1.7] Y-Axis timing belt Parts needed: • 1x Timing belt • 4x Cable ties Make sure that the centre of the GT2 pulley, centre of the Y-Belt holder, and the centre of the Y-belt idler bearing are all in line with each other. If they are not, you will need to loosen the pulley grub screws and position the pulley (possibly flip it around).
  • Page 15: [1.8] Outer End Plates

    [1.8] Outer end plates **NOTE** The cutout for the IEC connecter is no longer present on the rear outer plate. The IEC connecter now is included in the PSU kit Parts needed: • 1x rear outer end plate • 1x USB male to USB female adapter •...
  • Page 16 Next up is fixing the outer end plates to the front and rear gaskets. Do this by inserting three M3x20 screws with washers through the read outer end plate – through the gasket and rear inner end plate. Place washers on the protruding ends of the screws and tighten with M3 nuts.
  • Page 18 Well done! Your printer’s Y-Axis assembly is now complete!
  • Page 19: X-Axis

    [2] X-Axis...
  • Page 20 Parts needed: 420mm smooth LM8UU linear linear rods (x-axis) bearings 320mm smooth linear Nema 17 stepper rods (z-axis) motor Printed x-end GT2 pulley (with grub screws) Printed x-end motor M3x10mm machine screw Printed x-axis carriage M4x25 machine screw Y-axis tensioner M4x20 machine screw F624 idler bearing M4 washer...
  • Page 21 STEP 1 • Insert two M8x420 linear rods into the printed x-end motor bracket STEP 2 • Slide two LM8UU linear bearings onto the bottom rod and one on the top • Snap the printed x-axis carriage onto the bearings. •...
  • Page 22 STEP 4 • Slide two LM8UU linear bearings onto each M8x320mm z-axis linear rods • Press fit the bearings (with rods inserted) into their cavity slots. It is VERY important that the bearings seat perfectly into their slots. • Check that the x-axis runs smoothly up and down the bearings.
  • Page 23 STEP 5 • Slide the 20tooth GT2 pulley onto the shaft of the Nema • Tighten the two grubscrews with a suitable Allen key – thereby fixing the pulley to the motor shaft. TIP* Try to orientate your cables so that they come out the bottom of the motor, this will help you in the long run with uniformity of your printer.
  • Page 24: [2.1] X-Axis Tensioner Sub-Assembly

    [2.1] X-Axis Tensioner Sub-assembly Should be M4 nyloc nut STEP 7 • Fix the two 624f bearings to the printed x- axis tensioner with an M4x25 machine screw, two M4 washers, and an M4 nyloc nut. STEP 8 • Slide an M4 nut into the rear captive slot. •...
  • Page 25 STEP 9 • Slide the x-axis tensioner Sub-assembly though the printed right side x-end. NOTE** This can sometimes be a tight fit. You don’t want to break the x-end so sanding or filing of the sides of the tensioner may be required. STEP 10 •...
  • Page 26: Z-Axis

    [3] Z–Axis Parts needed: Aluminium 6mm frame Nema 17 stepper motor with leadscrew Printed z-axis bottom left corner Printed z-axis bottom right corner M3x10 machine screw M3 washer...
  • Page 27 STEP 1 • Fix the printed z-axis bottom left and right corners to the laser cut aluminium frame. Using 6 M3x10 machine screws. NOTE: You need to make sure that the machine screws are screwed tight, but do not over tighten and strip the thread of the frame.
  • Page 28: Xz-Axis Mate

    [4] XZ-axis Mate Z-axis Sub-assembly X-axis Sub-assembly Printed z-axis top left corner Printed z-axis top right corner Leadscrew nut M3x10 machine screw M3x20 machine screw M3 nut...
  • Page 29 STEP 1 • Slide the x-axis Sub-assembly down over the z-axis lead screws. You need to make sure that the distance between the x-axis ends are perfect!! • The z-axis 320mm linear rods need to be press fitted into the bottom z- axis corner mount holes (red arrow).
  • Page 30 STEP 3 • Press fit the top right z corner to the right 320mm linear rod. • Use a mallet to tap the x-end (indicated by arrows) until the top right z-axis corner line up with the aluminium frame holes. STEP 4 •...
  • Page 31 STEP 5 • Thread the two leadscrew nuts onto the leadscrews until the flanged section of the nut seats flush up against the top of the x-ends. STEP 6 • Make sure that the threaded brass nut holes line up with the x-end holes and use four M3x20 machine screws.
  • Page 32: Yz - Axis Mate

    [5] YZ – axis Mate ZX axis Sub-assembly Y axis Sub-assembly Assembled Kit Kapton heater pad and thermistor (Attached to above Aluminium Bed) Bed springs M3x25 countersunk machine screws...
  • Page 33 STEP 1 • Slot the Y-axis assembly down into the slots of the aluminium frame. Keep in mind the 155mm clearance distance mentioned in the first section. STEP 2 • Tighten the M10 nuts with a size 17 spanner. Make sure that the feet of the aluminium frame and the printed gaskets are level! *TIP Working on a flat surface will help.
  • Page 34 STEP 5 • Using four M3x25 countersunk screws, fix the print bed to the y-carriage. Make sure that there are springs wedged between the bed and the carriage. • Ensure that the heater pad wires under the aluminium bed face the back of the printer.
  • Page 35: Electronics And Extruder Assembly

    [6] Electronics and Extruder Assembly Arduino Mega Ramps 1.4 12V power supply kit Printed standoff M4x10 machine screw M3x20 Auto Bed Levelling Kit Extruder and hotend Sub-assembly...
  • Page 36 STEP 1 • You will receive both your Arduino Mega and Ramps 1.4 control board assembled and ‘mated’ together. Evenly apply force to the edges of both boards to pry the two apart. • Fix the Arduino mega to the frame using four M3x20 machine screws and standoffs between the frame and the bottom of the Arduino.
  • Page 37 STEP 3 - *REFER TO CHARLSTRUDER INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE EXTRUDER* STEP 4 – Mounting Extruder and Auto Bed Level Probe Mount • Fix the completed extruder and Auto Bed Levelling Probe mount to the x-axis carriage using two M3x35 machine screws, M3 washers, and M3 nuts.
  • Page 38: Endstops

    [7] Endstops Parts needed: Printed X-Endstop holder Printed X-Endstop holder End switch You will not need this Z-Endstop due to your inductive probe STEP 1 Time to attach your two end stops, one for each axis as seen in the image. First thing you need to do is insert the end switches into the printed parts.
  • Page 39 STEP 2 • Snap the x-axis end switch holder onto the two M8 smooth rods. STEP 3 • Snap the y-axis end switch assembly to the M10 threaded rod. The top ‘hook’ keeps the mount vertical.
  • Page 40 STEP 4 Now it’s time to position the two end switch assemblies. The point of this is to ensure the tip of the nozzle ‘homes’ to the front left corner of the bed. • First up is the x-axis. Position the X end-switch assembly so that the tip of the nozzle lines up with the left edge of the print bed when the switch makes contact with the x-carriage.

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