Riverlea Duratuf TAMAHERE Assembly Instructions Manual

Base size: 4.000m x 2.000m

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ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

TAMAHERE

BASE SIZE: 4.000m x 2.000m

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Page 1 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS TAMAHERE BASE SIZE: 4.000m x 2.000m...
Page 2 BEFORE YOU BEGIN THE ASSEMBLY PLEASE NOTE SOME IMPORTANT POINTS TOOLS REQUIRED • Electric / Battery Drill • 5/16” Hex Drive Screwdriver Bit (for screwing in the Tek Screws) • 3.5mm Steel Screwdriver Bit • 10mm Steel Screwdriver Bit • (If anchoring to a concrete floor) 12mm Concrete Drill Bit And Concrete Drill •...
Page 3: Parts List
PARTS LIST TIMBER FRAMING DESCRIPTION LENGTH DIAGRAM CHECKED Front/Back Base Plate 70 x 45 H4 (Green) 4.000m End Base Plate 70 x45 H4 (Green) 2.000m Front/Back Top Plate 70 x 45 H1 (Red) 4.000m End Top Plate 70 x 45 H1 (Red) 2.000m Lintel 70 x 45 H1 2.490m Stud 70 x 45 H1 (Yellow) 2.295m Stud 70 x 45 H1 (Yellow) 0.320m...
Page 4 DESCRIPTION LENGTH PART# DIAGRAM CHECKED Front Corner Flashing 2.455m 1001 Back Corner Flashing 2.385m 1002 Door Top Flashing 2.595m 1003 Door Head Flashing 2.400m 1004 Door Jamb Flashing 1.970m 1005 Barge Flashing 2.395m 1006 Spouting 4.115m 1007 Downpipe Cover Flashing 2.260m 1008 Front Roof Flashing 4.115m 1009 Front Top Plate Flashing 4.000m 1010 Spouting End Cap...
Page 5: Optional Extras
OPTIONAL EXTRAS CLEAR ROOF DESCRIPTION LENGTH DIAGRAM CHECKED Clear Roof Panel 2.330m PLY FLOOR DESCRIPTION LENGTH DIAGRAM CHECKED Plywood 17mm treated 2.000m x 1.200m Plywood 17mm treated 2.000 x 0.400m Joists 70 x 45mm H4 3.910m Joists 70 x 45mm H4 2.000m Joists 70 x 45mm H4 0.444m Aluminium Door Step Flashing 2.395m Floor Screws 75mm Floor Screws 40mm Tek Screws 100mm SOLID TIMBER FLOOR KIT DESCRIPTION...
Page 6: Concrete Base
FOUNDATIONS • No doubt by now you will have decided what sort of fl ooring base you are going to use. • If you choose to pour a concrete fl oor, this is the best option as the cladding overlaps with the fl oor preventing the water from fl owing inside the shed. Please see the details below for pouring your concrete fl oor. • The second option is to install your shed on a Duratuf Timber Floor Kit. If you have one of these fl oor kits, please make sure that you read through the instructions fully fi rst and proceed to build this fl oor prior to starting your shed. You will need to ensure that the ground is fi rm and fl at and the the fl oor is anchored down securely • If you chose to position the shed directly onto the ground, the water can fl ow down the walls and under the bottom plate and into the shed. CONCRETE BASE BUILDING A CONCRETE SLAB FLOOR • Prior to setting up the boxing for your concrete fl oor you will need to mark out the area to 300mm bigger than the size of the shed. Remove any soft soil or dirt, fi ll with sand or...
Page 7 TIMBER FRAME End Base Plates - 2 Front/Back Base Plates - 2 End Top plates - 2 Front/Back Top Plates - 2 Studs - 14 Nogs - 11 Lintel - 1 Front Roof Packer - 1 Centre Roof Beam - 1 TIMBER FRAME - BACK WALL Select: 1 x 4000mm Base Plate...
Page 8 TIMBER FRAME - FRONT WALL Select 1 x 4000mm Base Plate 1 x 4000mm Top Plate 1 x 2490mm Lintel 4 x 2295mm Studs 2 x 1930mm Studs 5 x 320mm Jack Studs (short studs) 2 x 665mm Nogs • Select 1 x 4000mm base plate (Green), 1 x 4000mm top plate (Red) and 4 x 2295mm studs (Yellow). • Lay out the top and bottom plates and the two outside studs, ensuring that the notches face outwards as shown. Nail together at the corners using two 75mm nails per corner.
Page 9 ASSEMBLING THE TIMBER FRAME • Select 2 x 2000mm base plates (Green) and 2 x 2000mm top plates (Red). With the front wall lying on the ground, fit the notched out ends into the corresponding check outs in the front wall framing. • Ensure Green joins to Green and Red joins to Red and nail with 2 x 75mm nails. • Position the completed back wall frame on top of the 4 upright framing plates. • While someone supports the frame to ensure that it doesn’t move around, nail this back frame in place with 2 x 75mm nails at each corner.
Page 10 ASSEMBLING THE TIMBER FRAME • Position the Top Plate Packer on the top of the framing, Top Plate Packer Centre Roof Beam flush with the front. This provides the slope for the roof. • Nail to the top plate using 75mm nails - 1 at each end and 4 evenly spaced. • Take the centre Roof Beam and position over the 2 end wall studs and attach using 2 x 75mm nails at each end. • Select the Roof Beam Angle Braces and screw them under the centre roof beam and onto the centre end wall stud as shown using 4 x 40mm screws.
Page 11 FLOORING - CONCRETE SLAB If your shed has a concrete slab floor, position the frame onto the base. Note: if the shed floor is against a house or fence, you can position the shed after it has been built (but before you install the roller door). Please note that the design of the shed means that the wall cladding protrudes below the bottom timber plate.
Page 12 FLOORING - TIMBER FLOOR KIT If your shed has an OPTIONAL TIMBER FLOOR KIT, fit this now. • Take all 5 x 4000mm Floor Joists and place them parallel (with the narrow side of the joist on the ground) as per the diagram. The outside joists are 2000mm apart and the centre 3 joists are 500mm spaces (to the centres). Joists • Select 2 x 2000mm floorboards and lay them on the top of the joists, one at each end as per the diagram. Nail the floorboards to the joists, flush at the corners, with 2 x 50mm clouts at each end. • When completed, Measure diagonally from one outside corner to the other, note the measurement and then measure the opposite diagonal distance. These measurements must be the same for the shed to be square. Adjust if necessary.
Page 13 FLOORING - PLYWOOD FLOOR KIT If your shed has an OPTIONAL PLYWOOD FLOOR KIT, fit this now. • Take the 5 x 4000mm long floor joists and lay them out parallel to each other on their short edges as shown (45mm face to the ground). Lay the 2 x 2000mm Joists across the ends. • Using 8 x 75mm screws, screw the outside joists together at the corners using 2 screws per corner. • Take 1 x 444mm Joist, and using it as a measuring packer, position the next internal joist at one end and fasten with 2 screws. Repeat at the other end. • Position and attached the other remaining 2 x joists the same way.
Page 14 ATTACHING DPC TO FRAME Waterproofing is important to prevent leaks and keep the timber framing dry. Your shed has been supplied with a roll of DPC tape (Damp Proof Course) If your shed is positioned on a concrete or raised timber floor it is important that you install the DPC before attaching the cladding to prevent water flowing between the bottom plate and floor.
Page 15 ATTACHING THE DOOR HEAD FLASHING The door head flashing sits up underneath the lintel to cover the timber framing that would otherwise be exposed to the weather. • Select the door head flashing and hold it up underneath the lintel. It should fit snugly between the door studs. • Holding the flashing in tight, nail it to the lintel using 6 x 30mm clouts, 3 x on the underside of the lintel and 3 on the front face of the flashing evenly spaced. Timber Lintel Door Head Flashing - ensure that the folded edge is under the lintel.
Page 16 WALL CLADDING TO AVOID CORROSION: • Where at all possible try not to trap metal filings between two sheets. Remove all metal filings before riveting. • Carbon in pencils reacts with the Zinc/Aluminium coating on steel. Use an ink pen to mark the steel as required. CLADDING FIXING AND OVERLAP DETAIL WALL CLADDING FIXING PATTERN 25mm Tek Screws BASE PLATE FLOOR...
Page 17 WALL CLADDING - BACK & ENDS Note - When attaching wall cladding, always ensure that the top sheet is flush with the top of the top timber framing plate and that the ends of the cladding sheets are flush and parallel with studs. This will ensure that wall panels are square. Always screw wall sheets through the trough (inner rib closest to the frame) of the profile. TOP WALL SHEET • Take a 5000mm length rear wall sheet and hold it in position at the top of the back wall. It must be flush with the top of top timber plate and both ends must be flush with the outside of the studs at either Fig.1...
Page 18 FIXING WALL CLADDING - FRONT The front wall cladding is attached the same way as the other side walls, except that the bottom cladding sheets either side of the roller door will overlap a lot more than the side and back walls. This will be explained in the step below “BOTTOM SHEET”. OVERDOOR CLADDING SHEET Steel flush with timber frame Fitting the top cladding sheet on the front wall will be a lot easier with 2...
Page 19 ATTACHING THE FLASHINGS Now it is time to fi nish the corners by fi tting the Corner Flashings. PLEASE NOTE: Do NOT screw tek screws too tightly into the corner and door side fl ashings as they will pull in and leave a dent. We will screw the corner fl ashings onto each corner using six 55mm tek screws per corner, 3 x into each face of the fl ashing, 2 x at the top, 2 x at the bottom and 2 x in the middle. The top screws should be approx 250mm...
Page 20 FITTING THE SPOUTING This shed comes with a built in spouting and downpipe system so that you can easily manage the water runoﬀ . CUTTING THE DROPPER HOLE • Preparation for fi tting the end caps, you will need to cut out the hole for the 200mm downpipe dropper. • Determine which end you want the downpipe and mark a line 200mm in from the end of the spouting as per the diagram on the right. You will be cutting a 80mm hole in the centre of the base of the spouting. • Place a mark in the centre of your 200mm line, and using this as the centre, scribe a mark with a diameter of 80mm.
Page 21 FITTING THE DOWNPIPE FITTING THE DOWNPIPE • Silicone the lip of the dropper that will be in contact with the spouting. Place it in the hole. Make sure it is straight. Add extra silicone as required for a watertight seal. Allow the silicone to dry. • Measure and cut the downpipe to the right length, push it up tight and secure tightly by using one rivet through into the dropper and riveting the two brackets to rear wall cladding. • Position the downpipe cover flashing over downpipe and rivet to wall cladding using 6 rivets. FITTING THE FRONT TOP PLATE FLASHING • The Front Top Plate Flashing sits on the top plate and comes down the front of the shed over the top of the front wall cladding. The folded edge of the flashing is on the front part of the flashing.
Page 22 ROOF If an optional clear roof sheet has been supplied, this can be fi tted in any of the middle positions. (Note - both edges of clear roof sheet overlap the steel sheets at each side vs the steel sheets that are under on one edge and over on the other).
Page 23 SPOUTING & BARGE FITTING THE BARGES • Select the left hand barge flashing. This will fit in between the front roof flashing and the back gutter. We will be attaching the barges to the spouting at the back first and fitting the front flashing last. • Hold the flashing in firmly against the side of the shed spanning over the roof corrugate and down the side of the shed. Barge Flashing • Line the end of the barge up with the back of the spouting. The barge should fit over the top and bottom of the spouting. Drill a 3.5mm hole into the top of the spouting in the corner and fix 2 x rivets (see arrows 1 & 2). • Repeat the process with the barge on the other side. • Once both barges are riveted to the top of the spouting with 2 x ATTACHING THE BARGE FLASHING rivets, it is time to fit the front barge.
Page 24: Before You Begin
ROLLER DOOR BEFORE YOU BEGIN • This Roll-A-Door is designed and tested to provide security, attractive appearance and smooth, low eff ort operation provided it is installed and operated in strict accordance with the following safety warnings. Failure to comply with the following instructions may result in death, serious personal injury or property damage. • NOTE: Do not unwrap packaging around roller door until requested, as this will untension the door. SERIES 1 ROLL-A-DOOR DESCRIPTION ITEM PACKED CHECKED Rolled plastic wrapped door “A” Style brackets, left & right hand side Door guides, left & right hand side Steel locking bars SMALL PARTS BAG CONTAINING: Guide clips (door size dependent) 4-10 Door handle and fi xing to suit Bottom rail stops and 6mm screws Faceplate and lock assembly (2 keys) Locking bar retainer Locking bar covers...
Page 25: Parts Checklist
ROLLER DOOR PARTS CHECKLIST REQUIREMENTS BEFORE INSTALLATION • Level and plumb - The door must be installed in an absolutely level position, if opening is not level and square, appearance and/or sideroom requirements will be aff ected. The fl oor should be level or recessed across the opening to avoid gaps. MEASUREMENTS • Opening width - As the standard door overlaps each side by 30mm or more, the door should be 60mm wider than the 1800mm opening. • Opening height - The door opening height (or drive through clearance) indicates the distance between the ground and rubber seal at the bottom of the door, with door fully open. For doors with a handle, the bottom rail is recommended to hang a minimum of 80mm below the lintel. OPENING WIDTH LINTEL HEIGHT...
Page 26 ROLLER DOOR LINTEL HEIGHT DRIVE THROUGH CLEARANCE DRIVE THROUGH CLEARANCE for doods with handle HEADROOM REQUIREMENTS FOR DOORS • Headroom - A minimum of 410mm of headroom is required. If the door is installed lower into the opening than shown below, additional loss of door opening height will result. RECOMMENDED HEADROOM Required for door with handle...
Page 27 ROLLER DOOR INSTALL FIRST BRACKET • Measure the door curtain width and mark where edge of curtain will be, allowing for over lap on each side of the opening. • Add clearance of 20-30mm from edge of curtain to inside edge of bracket to determine positioning of the bracket. • Headroom. Measure up 120mm from underside of the lintel. • Mark two hole positions using top and bottom slots on the bracket. • Drill both holes, then attach bracket using the 50mm x 10mm coach screws and washers supplied. 120mm Line for edge of door 20-30mm INSTALL SECOND BRACKET Water Level •...
Page 28 ROLLER DOOR centering axle WARNING! practice correct lifting techniques axle “fl oats” in either direction POSITION DOOR BOTTOM RAIL AT 3 O’CLOCK • Centre the door with the opening, while ensuring the fl oating axle is also centred with the door. Do this by lining up previous marks with the hub,then lift both the axle and the door together until it is centred with the opening. • Rotate the curtain and axle so that the bottom rail of the door is positioned as shown (3 o’clock). • Push the axle forward in the slots (toward the opening) and tighten the nuts fi rmly without overtightening.
Page 29: Attaching Stop
ROLLER DOOR ATTACHING STOP To attach bottom rail stops to bottom rail of door. • Hook stop behind lip in rail, as shown. stop • Secure from underneath the rail with screws supplied. Trim the weatherseal fl ush with the end of the bottom rail. GUIDES • Check that curtain overlaps equally on both sides, roll-a-guide bottom rail lip and cut the guides (C) so that top of guide is the same height as the top of the brackets (B) • Slide four guide clips (E) into each guide (C). Position the bottom clip 200mm from the fl oor with the bottom rest evenly spaced along the guide. rail To prevent clips from sliding down the guide, temporarily secure them with adhesive tape.
Page 30: Fitting Handle
ROLLER DOOR FITTING HANDLE • Fit the handle (F) to the outside of the door using the screws (P), nuts and washers provided CENTRE LIFT LOCK Wear appropriate gloves as some edges of the door are very sharp. • Raise the curtain until the lock corrugation is visible Raise the curtain until the lock corrugation is visible above the door guides. Legs • Install locking bar retainer (I) in line with lock corrugation by pushing retainer towards door edge, sliding the legs under the Nylofelt®...
Page 31 ROLLER DOOR Faceplate Lock Lock bar cover assembly Double sided adhesive tape WARNING: Locking bar covers must be installed to prevent Lock bar cover possible fi nger entrapment. CLEAN UP • Remove all swarf (drill fi lings) with a soft brush or rag. • Hose down roof and walls thoroughly. • For Coloursteel sheds use touch-up paint provided on all nail heads, rivets and exposed cuts.
Page 32: Troubleshooting
ROLLER DOOR TROUBLESHOOTING SYMPTOM POSSIBLE CAUSE REMEDY Door is hard to Door jamming in the guides Check: operate in ANY a) the guide clearances DIRECTION b) the guides are plumb c) that the guide surfaces are clean and free from oil d) that the locking bars are the correct length e) that the weatherseal is correct length The door is hard The spring tension requires a) If the door is hard to lift, but tends to drop, refer to section to operate in ONE...
Page 33: After Installation Care
ROLLER DOOR ADJUST TO SPRING TENSION WARNING: Ensure that pipe wrench is fi tted correctly to the axle and if it is gripped onto the axle do not underestimate the tension in the spring when undoing the clamps. CAUTION: THIS ADJUSTMENT REQUIRES 2 PERSONS TO COMPLETE. a) With the door rolled up tie two ropes around the door roll approximately 300mm from each end, as a safety precaution. b) With a person at each end of the door, hold the axle fi rmly with a large pipe wrench (Stillson) at TO LOOSEN least 450mm long. SPRING TENSION c) Loosen the “U” bolt nuts at both ends and KEEP A FIRM GRIP ON WRENCH.
Page 34 ROLLER DOOR We suggest you record your full Key letter and Number on the front of this manual and if replacement keys are required they can be obtained from your nearest B&D office, simply by quoting this number. If the keys have been lost and the number not recorded, it can be found stamped into the locking arm at the back of the mechanism. NYLOFELT® On no account should you use grease or oil in the door guides or on the Nylofelt® running strips – the grease or oil will clog the Nylofelt® and spoil the operation of the door. An occasional wipe with a cloth dampened with mineral turps or methylated spirits, down the inside of each guide, is very beneficial in removing any trace of grease or dirt. After the guides have been cleaned, a silicon spray may be used in the guides. NOTE: WD40 or similar oil based sprays are not silicon and should not be used. Care should be taken not to damage the Nylofelt®, however, if Nylofelt® is cut or damaged, a lighted match should be used to quickly seal the ends of the nylon braiding, so as to stop any further deterioration. Regular maintenance required B&D recommends that you check the operation of your Roll-A-Door® at least every six months (more regularly in extreme environments or frequent use). The effort required to manually open and to manually close the door should be about the same (if door has an automatic opener, put into manual mode before testing door). If the door is difficult to operate in either direction (up or down) then check: 1) that the Nylofelt® running strips on each side of the door have not slipped from the edge and are jamming the door; 2) that the door is running correctly in the guides and the guides are straight and perpendicular; and 3) that the inside surfaces of the guides are clean and free of obstructions. (see paragraph on care of Nylofelt®) If you have checked these (and corrected where necessary) and the door is still difficult to operate, then your door will need a service to adjust the spring tension and possibly other operational parts of the door. This service should only be carried out by an experienced door technician, using the correct tools. If you have an automatic opener fitted to your door, it is particularly important that you ensure the optimum operation of the door, otherwise you may reduce the effective life of the opener. To keep your door running well, it is recommended that your door be serviced, by an experienced door technician, every 12 months (more regularly in extreme environments or frequent use), or earlier if required. Spring tension It is natural for springs to lose tension over time. When spring tension is adjusted or when your door is first installed it is usual to apply a little more tension than is required for balanced operation, to allow for the normal “settling in” of the springs.
Page 35: Warranty Registration
Do NOT mark cladding with pencil Do NOT allow manures, chemicals or other corrosive materials to have direct contact with cladding • Force majeure or other causes beyond the control of Riverlea Group Ltd. This warranty does not cover material installed in severe and very severe environmental situations, or in any area where the mild steel corrosion rate (as published by BRANZ) exceeds 200g/m2. Minimum maintenance must be carried out in accordance with instructions below. Should the cladding fail to perform as specifi ed above, the liability of Riverlea Group Ltd shall in all cases be limited to replacing or repairing the defective product. The balance of the original warranty will cover any repaired or replaced material. Riverlea Group Ltd will not be liable for any consequential loss or damage, labour or transport charges. All claims made in writing within 21 days of discovery, quoting the reference number at the top right hand corner of this page. MAINTENANCE Following are the minimum maintenance requirements for cladding used in Kiwi Garden Sheds and Fortress Sheds. • Washing all surfaces by rain, and annual hosing of sheltered areas using a hose and soft nylon brush. • Within 2km of coast—wash every 3 months as above. After a storm, wash the cladding and the gutters as soon as possible to remove any highly corrosive salt deposits. • Volcanic Ash Fallout—wash as soon as possible, removing fallout from roof and gutters. • Gutters to be kept clean of leaves and dirt. Should you require additional technical information please contact us at the details below. WARRANTY REGISTRATION Please visit http://www.riverleagroup.co.nz/warranty-garden-sheds to validate the Warranty on your shed. Click on the Warranty Registration Link and complete all details. If you are unable to access the computer, please phone us on 0800 438 274 and one of the customer services team will help you to acti-vate the warranty on your garden shed. Many thanks, from the Team at Riverlea Group.