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The Cessna 185 Skywagon is a large six passenger high wing mono plane with conventional
fixed gear and used a 6 cylinder Continental engine. In 1961 they started production and at the end
of its production run in the mid 1980's they produced over 4,400 of this rugged aircraft which
became very popular as a back country and Alaska Bush plane. This plane has a high load lifting
capabilities and excellent STOL characteristics. Pilots love to fly and modify there Cessna 185 by
adding huge tundra tires, floats, ski's, stall fences, vortex generators and drooped wing tips. So for
all you civilian buffs, there's a lot color schemes out there. There are also some (not a lot) of
military color schemes or be creative with your own scheme.
The construction of the full scale 185 is mainly of aluminum and fully skinned. All the control
surfaces are sheeted in corrugated aluminum. With this model, balsa, lite ply and birch aircraft ply
are used in the construction and covered in film (Monokote or UltraCote).
This 1/3 scale model has a true scale outline with no deviations in wing or tail area's, but has
been designed to be more of a sport scale build. I.e. open wing and fuselage structure. The airfoil
is not scale but uses a thickened Clark Y airfoil recommended by Peter Goldsmith. Thanks Pete!
The model construction is a full kit and built up. Although, this model is not a beginners build,
the fuselage is fairly easy to construct following the manuals' construction steps. The majority of
the fuselage is built flat on the work table. The wings are built up with traditional ribs and spars and
is built in one piece flat on the work bench with the use of build tabs on the outer wing panel. The
wings are finished in 1/8" thick balsa sheeting with cap strips. The wings are joined to the fuselage
with an aluminum wing tube and has aluminum wing struts. The stabilizer halves and fin uses
carbon fiber tubes with birch ply mounting tabs which makes it easy for removal.
Features; One piece fiberglass cowl, heavy duty two piece landing gear from 5/16" thick 6061
T6 aluminum. Functional doors and luggage door with latches and magnets. Laser cut windshields
and windows. CNC routered birch ply parts for clean no charred edges. Plenty of floor strapping
slots for receivers, batteries or telemetry mounting.
This model was thought up at an aero tow meet to fill the gap in large scale glider towing. Build
it as a tow plane "tug", scale or a sport scale model. Thinking outside the box on this project... It
wound up being a consortium design project via text messaging about ideas and what features
they were looking for in a robust model that can handle the rigors of aero towing duty. Credit goes
out to the three tow pilots in the North East that started it all; Kevin Kremer, Jim Dolly and Len
Buffinton. Thanks guys! It was a lot of fun and new way of thinking, tinkering and designing
something different.
BIGGER FLIES BETTER ! HAPPY BUILDING! Gunny Bumburs owner Aviation Concepts rc
Although the construction manual covers almost every detail, you the builder are
responsible for the construction, final selection of materials and airworthiness of your
finished model. Read the manual, use the plans and don't leave your brain at the shop door.
You, the builder, assume any and all responsibility for any error, omission or loss incurred
by building or flying this kit - as in all things you construct, you are the one responsible for
the use, liability or losses incurred in the process, if any.

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Summary of Contents for Aviation Concepts Cessna 185 Skywagon

  • Page 1 The Cessna 185 Skywagon is a large six passenger high wing mono plane with conventional fixed gear and used a 6 cylinder Continental engine. In 1961 they started production and at the end of its production run in the mid 1980’s they produced over 4,400 of this rugged aircraft which became very popular as a back country and Alaska Bush plane.
  • Page 2: Table Of Contents

    TABLE OF CONTENTS FUSELAGE FORMER SUB ASSEMBLIES………………………………....................1 TOW PLANE PACKAGE ………………..........................2 TAIL GEAR MOUNT SUB ASSEMBLY….………………....................2 FUSELAGE BOTTOM SUB ASSEMBLY.………………………..................4 TOP SUB ASSEMBLY ………………..………………………………...................9 SIDE SUB ASSEMBLY ………………………………......................11 DOUBLER SUB ASSEMBLY ……………………………………………................12 ATTACHING DOUBLER TO SIDE ASSEMBLY......................12 TEST FIT OF FORMERS………………...........................19 DOOR HINGES…………………………...........................19 GLUING FORMERS TO FUSELAGE BOTTOM….….....................20 TEST FIT FUSELAGE SIDES AND TOP…….........................22...
  • Page 3 TIPS, LEADING AND TRAILING EDGES………….......................104 CARVING, SHAPING & SANDING………………......................107 HINGING……………………………………………......................107 MOUNTING FIN……………………………………......................107 TORQUE TUBE……………………………….........................108 STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR ..…………......................111 TOP SHEETING……………………………….........................115 MOUNTING SERVO………………………………......................116 BOTTOM SHEETING……………………..…........................117 TIP BLOCKS….………………………………........................118 HINGING………………………………………........................119 HORN AND PUSHROD……………………........................120 RIGHT WING ………………………………........................121 FLAP HINGING………..……………………........................146 WING TIPS…………….……………………........................149 AILERON HINGING…..……………………........................151 AILERON SERVO TRAY…………………........................153 WING STRUTS …………………………….........................154 FINISHING...
  • Page 4 WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer, or birth defects or other reproductive harm. Gluing together hardwood pieces ie. Bass, spruce and birch ply. Because these pieces are very dense it is recommended that you make “Gluing Dimple Holes” by drilling (1/32” dia. drill bit) multiple tiny dimpled holes in both adjoining pieces.
  • Page 5: Former Sub Assemblies

    4. Epoxy together F5A to F5B. FUSELAGE: (Former Sub Assemblies) 1. Glue together former F7A to F7B. Make sure both etched formers’ call out part numbers are facing up towards you. 5. Epoxy together F4A to F4B. 2. Glue F7C to F7A using two alignment dowel pegs. Then cut and sand the dowels flush.
  • Page 6: Tow Plane Package

    (Tow Plane Package) 7. If you have purchased the “Tow Plane Package,” now is a good time to install the four 6-32 blind nuts to the back of former F5A/F5B. Back means that the formers’ etched part call out numbers is down facing the work bench.
  • Page 7: Stabilizer & Elevator Sheeting

    10. When the epoxy has set or cured, Use a 1/16” dia. drill bit and drill out the 6 holes. 12. Epoxy FL10 assembly onto FL9B using the tail gear wire as a guide. Note; the block and wire has to be pushed to the front as far as it will go.
  • Page 8: Fuselage Bottom Sub Assembly

    13. When the epoxy has fully cured, use a punch to pop out the wire over a vise. (Fuselage Bottom Sub Assembly) 15. The fuselage is built from the bottom on up. Hang up the fuselage side view on your wall for reference. Lay down drawing 4-7 onto your clean and flat work 14.
  • Page 9: Bottom Wing Sheeting Layout

    17. Glue together FB2A to FB2B. 16. When removing FB1 from the sheet be careful not to break off the temporary square brace at the end. 18. Glue FB1 to FB2 assembly. Remove and discard the tail wire slot. 19. Using 3 alignment dowel pegs, place the FL9 tail mount assembly onto the rear of F1B and trace around its perimeter.
  • Page 10 20. Glue 1/4” square balsa sticks on top of the fuselage bottom assembly along the sides (flush with the edge of the lite ply.) Use aliphatic wood glue to give you working time for positioning. Use a small hammer to tap the T pins into the lite ply to hold the sticks into position.
  • Page 11 22. Place the bottom assembly balsa sticks side down and glue onto the sides 3/8” balsa triangle stock. 23. Sand the little bit of the balsa that protrudes above the lite ply flush. Then flip over and sand the other side even and flush.
  • Page 12 25. Epoxy in the tail gear mounting assembly using 30 minute epoxy and the 3 dowel pegs. Also add some gluing anchor dimples into the lite ply. Clean up any epoxy that might have squeezed through on the other side. 24.
  • Page 13: Top Sub Assembly

    (Top Sub Assembly) 26. Glue together FT1 to FT2. 28. Glue on FD8 using dowel pegs. Trim and sand 27. Glue FD7 and FD6 into position using alignment pegs flush. dowel pegs. Do not glue the pegs in. Remove the pegs and insert four 4-40 blind nuts.
  • Page 14 30. Add some epoxy around all the blind nuts. 32. Glue on the two FR3 reinforcing. 33. Test fit all the formers onto the top assembly. They 31. Flip the top over and glue on the 3/8” balsa triangle must be a loose sliding fit and plug in fairly easily. stock.
  • Page 15: Side Sub Assembly

    36. Now glue these two assemblies together. (Side Sub Assembly) 37. Finally glue FS1 into position. 34. Glue FS3A to FS3B. 38. Repeat steps for the other side. 35. Glue FS2A to FS2B.
  • Page 16: Doubler Sub Assembly

    42. Repeat steps for the other doubler. (Doubler Sub Assembly) 39. Glue FD1A to FD1B. (Attaching Doubler to Side Assembly) Important; You will be making a Right and Left Hand Assembly! Steps shown is Right Hand 40. Glue FD2A to FD2B. 43.
  • Page 17 45. Lay the doubler down on top of the side aligning the six alignment holes. Insert the dowel pegs. 47. Cut half the length off of the bristles of an epoxy brush or a chip brush and a an angle. 46.
  • Page 18 50. Glue FD3 into position using two dowel pegs. Remove the pegs and insert two 4-40 blind nuts. 49. Repeat for Left Hand Assembly. 51. With the doubler side down, add three magnets to the main door, No need to be concerned about the magnets polarity at this time.
  • Page 19 52. Using the same procedure, add two magnets to the left fuselage side luggage door. (There is no door on the opposite side.) 53. Glue FD3 into position using three dowel alignment pegs. The back end is to be flush with the bottom of the fuselage.
  • Page 20 54. Glue on the 1/4” square balsa sticks. See drawing 5-7 for locations.
  • Page 21 55. Glue on the 3/8” balsa triangle stock.
  • Page 22 56. Glue on the 3/8” square balsa stick to the front top of the fuselage side. 58. Drill dimple holes and epoxy FL9 into position. 57. Epoxy two FL9’s together using dowel pegs. Cut 59. Add dabs of epoxy to the magnets and blind nuts. and sand pegs flush.
  • Page 23: Test Fit Of Formers

    (Test Fit of Formers) 60. Test fit all the formers into both of the fuselage sides. They all face forward i.e. part numbers faces front. The fit of these do not have to be a loose sliding fit like the fuselage top. Sand where necessary to fit especially between the balsa sticks, Remove formers.
  • Page 24: Gluing Formers To Fuselage Bottom

    (Gluing Formers To Fuselage Bottom) 62. Add epoxy glue into the three glue holes and where it will make contact with the wood. Press the hinge into position and use a scrap stick to push the 63. Place former F10 into position and trace around hinge down and flush with the fuselage side.
  • Page 25 64. Glue in formers F6 through F9. F7C (the doubler on former F7 must face forward). Use the F6 - F11 ANGLE SET GAUGE and a T pin or two to set the correct angle of these formers. All these formers angle rearward.
  • Page 26: Test Fit Fuselage Sides And Top

    (Test Fit Fuselage Sides and Top) 65. Test fit the fuselage sides onto the formers. Use some clamps to hold things together, Also test fit FM3A and the top assembly onto the fuselage. . (Gluing on the Fuselage Sides) 66. Glue FM3C on top of FM3A. Then glue this assembly into the rear of the fuselage.
  • Page 27: Glue In Remaining Fuselage Formers

    67. Glue all these fuselage formers to the sides only. (Glue in Remaining Fuselage Formers) The fuselage top will be glued on at a later time. 69. Test fit formers F5, F4, F3 and F2. 68. Glue FM3B into place. 70.
  • Page 28 72. Use 30 minute epoxy and glue in former F4 (Logo and serial number must face forward) using plenty of clamps. (Note the use of bar clamps at the top.) No need to pre clamp in the remaining two formers. 71.
  • Page 29: Landing Gear Mounting Structure

    73. The remaining two formers F3 and F2 must be (Landing Gear mounting structure) glued in at the same time. The etched part numbers must face forward, especially the recessed perimeters 74. Flip the fuselage over (be careful of the tab on the of the lightening holes of former F2.
  • Page 30 75. Hammer in eight 10-32 blind nuts into FL5. Four of 76. Hammer in two 6-32 blind nuts into FL6. These them sit in a pocket and must not protrude above the also sit in a pocket and must not protrude above the surface.
  • Page 31 77. Test bolt together the two plywood plates with all 78. When cured, trim off or sand excess epoxy eight 10-32 bolts and both 6-32 bolts. The arrows on especially off the front edge (arrow side.) Place the these two parts will be facing the same direction, i.e. landing gear plate into position (arrows facing forward) front of the fuselage.
  • Page 32 80. Familiarize yourself with this step before beginning. Use 30 minute epoxy to glue in the landing gear plate assembly. Use a couple of clamps to secure the back edge down onto the rear gussets and two bar clamps to keep the front edge in full contact with all four of the front vertical edges of those gussets.
  • Page 33: Internal Floor Sections

    (Internal Floor Sections) 81. Glue in FF1A and then FF1B. 83. Glue in both FR1’s.The back end fits into the round hole in F5B and the front end is on the insides of FL7‘s. 82. Flip fuselage over and glue in on center FF1C and FF1D.
  • Page 34 84. Check and realign the fuselage front end as you did in step 79. Securely glue in FF2 from the top side and bottom. This will lock in the final alignment of the fuselage front end. 85. Cut and glue in 1/4” square balsa sticks on top of the front edge of FL5 the landing gear mounting plate.
  • Page 35 86. Slide FF3 in place as shown and check for fit. When satisfied, glue on top of the 1/4” square balsa sticks and along both sides only. 88. Epoxy in a 1/2” balsa triangle stock across the front. 87. Temporary clamp into position FR2 lining up the front bottom edge with the fire wall F2B.
  • Page 36: Fuselage Forward Bottom Sections

    89. Glue into position both FR2‘s. The back ends are (Fuselage Forward Bottom Sections) on the outside edges of FL8‘s. 92. Glue FL1 into position and use a straight edge to keep the ends straight. 90. Cut 3/4” balsa triangle stock and use 30 minute epoxy to glue into position in both front corners.
  • Page 37 94. Glue FB3A to FB3B together. 97. Next is to glue on the 3/8” balsa triangle stock. 95. Glue on 1/4” square balsa sticks. 98. Trim back the balsa stick and triangle if needed at former F5. 96. Glue on 1/4” square balsa sticks to FB4.
  • Page 38: Tail Tube Sockets

    99. Glue the remaining two floor assemblies in place. 102. Cut another piece of 1“ long 3/4” balsa triangle and glue it under the previous triangle to the fuselage side. (You may have to pull up on the fuselage bottom 100.
  • Page 39 104. Insert FRONT STAB FUSE and REAR STAB FUSE and secure with glue in the gluing slots. 106. Glue in REAR FIN FUSE socket. Make sure it is fully seated into the pocket of the tail gear mount. 105. Trim the sockets flush with either a fine tooth saw or razor blade.
  • Page 40: Fuselage Top Structure

    108. Glue on FM4B onto FM4A. (Fuselage Top Structure) 107. Add glue to the top of the fuselage formers that will make contact with the fuselage top rear section. Tape into position at the former locations. 109. Glue this assembly into position behind former...
  • Page 41 110. Glue in MID FIN FUSE socket tube. 112. Trim back the balsa stick and triangle if needed at former F7. 111. Glue in FRONT FIN FUSE socket tube. Trim and sand all tubes flush.
  • Page 42 The following steps, you will be making a Left and a 113. Glue in FR5 and 1/2” balsa triangle stock. Right hand assembly. 115. Glue FW4 to FW5. 114. Glue in both FR4’s. 116. Glue FW6 and FW3 into position as shown.
  • Page 43 117. Glue in FW4A. 120. Familiarize the next couple of steps before beginning. Add glue to the structure that will mate up to 118. Repeat previous steps to make the opposite hand the fuselage. Also add glue in the area between the structure.
  • Page 44 121. Clamp assembly into position. The clamps should be where there is structure behind FW5. Do not add any clamps in the “hatched area” as shown in the second picture. 122. Glue FW2 in place. 123. Glue FT3A and FT3B together.
  • Page 45 124. From the narrow end mark a line 9 3/4”. 127. Mark a line across the front edge of the slots onto the square sticks. Then mark the length of a 3/8” balsa triangle stock again from the narrow end and glue into position.
  • Page 46 128. Trim the triangle stock behind former F6 2” back 129. Glue the top assembly on. as shown. Test fit the top assembly on and sand or trim the end of the triangle stock that was added to the top assembly. 130.
  • Page 47 133. Clamp on a 90° angle that is straight and flat to FW5. (These can be purchased at your big box stores. 1” to 2” L x 1/8” thick). 131. Sand the sides of FW5 smooth and flat from any protruding parts or glue.
  • Page 48 135. Cut the main wing tube socket to a length of 15 137. Place FT4 on two 3/8” square balsa sticks as 3/4” long but not more. shown with weight in the center to pre form it while gluing into position both FG2. 136.
  • Page 49: Fuselage Corners

    139. When cured, sand the sides of FW5 smooth and (Fuselage Corners) flat from any protruding part of the top or glue. 141. Run a sanding block on the balsa triangles to ensure they are on the same plane. 140. Glue on both FW7’s, Use 1/2” diameter dowels to align the rear.
  • Page 50 144. Next glue in FC1A followed by FC1B. 145. Glue in a long FC3 first followed by a short FC3. Draw a straight line from the rear to the front and trim away excess.
  • Page 51 146. Glue on FC4 to the front bottom corner. The 148. Then glue on FC5B. arrow faces forward. Use clamps and allow glue to cure before proceeding to next piece. 149. Plane and sand flush the balsa corners even with the top and sides first.
  • Page 52 150. Tape on TAIL CONE AND F11 RADIUS TEMPLATE. 152. Continue rounding over FC2. The front is a quarter round circle. 151. Starting from the top rear corners, plane and sand the balsa corners to shape. Use F9 and F7 CORNER R.
  • Page 53: Landing Gear Cover

    153. Finish rounding off the fillet block to a pencil point. (Landing Gear Cover) 155. Cut the balsa corner away from the landing gear area by using a razor saw flush with the front and rear of the pocket. Cut down so the saw is even with the 154.
  • Page 54 157. Bolt on the landing gear halves with 10-32 x 1” long socket head bolts and lock washers. (Pictures shows a one piece gear which is not available). 159. Place assemblies back onto the landing gear. Insert but do not glue in two 5/16” diameter dowel alignment pegs.
  • Page 55 161. Carve and sand excess balsa to shape. 160. Drill a 5/64” diameter pilot hole into the landing gear plate and secure the cover down with two #4 x 1/2” long screws.
  • Page 56: Pull Pull Cable Exit

    (Pull Pull Cable Exit) 162. Retrieve the two 12” long brass tubes from the kit. Cut the bigger one 5/32” dia. in half by using an x-acto knife and rolling it on your work surface. 164. On one end of the 1/8” diameter brass tube use a small “V”...
  • Page 57: Rudder Servo Mount

    166. Hold the end down where it makes contact with 167. Snap off and remove the guide tubes. the balsa so it wont ride up and spin the other end of the brass tube while applying slight pressure until it comes through.
  • Page 58: Tail Cone

    171. Glue the FM2’s to FM1’s as shown. Make sure 169. Epoxy into position at the rear of the fuselage. both edges of FM2’s are on the same plane. I.e. angled the same way. (Tail Cone) 172. Measure up from the bottom of the servo mount 170.
  • Page 59 173. Glue the cone mounts into position. The bottom edge of the lower mounts are glued on or just slightly above the line. The upper ones are glued flush with the top of the servo mount. The mounts are parallel with the fuselage sides.
  • Page 60 177. Glue FD9 onto FT8. Then (using wood glue) glue it into the side pieces using your workbench to line up the front edges and tape onto the fuselage while the glue cures. 179. Tape the cone back onto the fuselage and sheet the bottom (cross grain) from 3/32”...
  • Page 61 180. Install four 4-40 x 1/4” long bolts through the TAIL CONE MOUNTING TEMPLATES and the mounts. Tape them onto the fuselage. Remove bolts, tape cone into position then mark the holes. 182. Carve and sand the tail cone to shape. 181.
  • Page 62: Engine Box

    183. Cut a slot into the bottom of the tail cone by taping (Engine Box) on the TAIL CONE AND F11 RADIUS TEMPLATE, Mark the width of the opening onto the bottom of the 184. Drill mounting holes for your engine. The holes tail cone.
  • Page 63 186. Lay FE1 the (BOTTOM) of the engine box THIS 187. Using 30 minute epoxy, epoxy on the Left and SIDE UP on your work bench (arrow points to the right Right sides onto the fire wall followed by FE2 (TOP) side of the engine box.) Glue F1 on top of FE1.
  • Page 64 189. Install your blind nuts for your engine (1/4-20 or 6mm T nuts not included in kit). Epoxy (30 min.) 1/2” balsa triangle stock inside the remaining corners of the engine box. Stand it on its back edge to ensure all sides are on the same plane then clamp and tape together.
  • Page 65 Insert the engine box stopping short and add epoxy 191. Epoxy the engine box into position using 30 minute epoxy. Before starting, read ahead and do a across the top of the marked lines. dry run first with all clamps and supplies on hand. Add epoxy to the inside perimeter of the opening on former Slide engine box fully into place and use plenty of clamps.
  • Page 66: Top Decking

    (Top Decking) 194. Glue in 3/8” square balsa sticks. Trim and sand both ends flush. 192. Epoxy (30 min.) 3/4” balsa triangle stock around the engine box behind former F2. 195. Glue FT5 on edge to the fuselage side as shown. Allow to cure before proceeding.
  • Page 67 198. Glue FT7 into place. Arrow faces forward and is at the center and the text side is up. 196. Soak the balsa sheet with Windex or water mixed with ammonia. Add clamps and allow to dry before 199. Sand the deck smooth and flush with F2 in the adding glue.
  • Page 68: Instrument Panel

    203. Cut out the right instrument panel decal. Near the (Instrument Panel) left edge is a bank of instruments that align vertically. Trim on this edge and apply it to the balsa dash 200. Glue FIPA to FIPB together. When dry sand the overlapping the left decal as needed.
  • Page 69: Fuel Tank Platform

    208. The G-10 frames will be on the outside. (Fuel Tank Platform) The front edge of the UPPER WS FRAME lines up on the edge of the lite ply roof. Tape the windshield 205. Dry assemble the tank parts into the airframe first. centered left to right as shown.
  • Page 70 209. Using #0 x 1/4” long micro screws, install a screw 211. Fold the windshield down and around as shown in one of the holes near the center. Continue installing and install a screw into the top corner. This is a the screws across the top edge alternating one at a temporary screw holding the corner, time left and right.
  • Page 71 212. Push the center of the windshield down onto the 213. You will probably now have a bow along the side balsa deck and install a #0 x 3/8” long screw. Do not that needs to be “trimmed to fit”. Remove the over tighten the screw as to strip the balsa.
  • Page 72 215. Remove the top four screws from the top side 216. Wrap the LE WS FRAME around the leading edge root rib against the windshield. Then drill a #60 curved section and install the LE WS FRAME tightening the screws so it can just move in its slotted dia.
  • Page 73 217. Drill the next pilot hole and install a 1/4” long screw. This screw can be tightened all the way. 220. Fit and glue FWS to the top of the balsa deck and to the top of the main former centered among the row 218.
  • Page 74: Windshield Mounting Fillet & Dash Hood

    221. Remove the windshield completely and remove the protective backings if still on. With thin CA glue soak the balsa screw holes in the deck. Allow the glue a minimum of 10 minutes to cure. (Windshield Mounting Fillet & Dash Hood) 222.
  • Page 75: Windshield Re-Installation

    Next, around both the LE with its frames. (one long screw in the bottom front not too tight as shown in step 216). 225. Once the fillet has fully cured, remove the screws and the false windshield strip of plastic. Then down along both the sides.
  • Page 76: Luggage Door

    In both corners at the leading edge crazing will be present. Nothing to be alarmed about. (Luggage Door) Part # 227. Take a magnet and hold it close to the magnet that is on the fuselage. It will jump on to it with correct pole orientation.
  • Page 77 228. From the outside, thin CA the magnet into place. 230. Bolt on the offset door hinges as shown using 4- Then followed by epoxy or regular CA glue. 40 x 5/16” long flat head bolts with the small pattern lock nuts.
  • Page 78 231. Install the door and bolt to the former using four 4- 232. Check the gap around the door, sand where 40 x 3/8” long socket head bolts and the four blue necessary. aluminum lock nuts only. 233. For the door handle, thread (screw in) into the center hole a 4-40 x 3/8”...
  • Page 79: Main Doors

    235. Glue FG1 to the inside of the door within the etched lines. 236. Glue FA2 into position. (Main Doors) Part # 234. Install three magnets into the door like you did in steps 227 and 228. Note; the inside surface of the doors has etched lines around the window.
  • Page 80 237. Locate one short and one long G-10 hinge and scuff both sides in the area of the three glue holes only with a file or rough sand paper. The longer hinge will go at the top of the door just under the window frame. The shorter one will be at the bottom of the door.
  • Page 81 239. Use either epoxy or thick CA glue and glue on the hinge cap at the same time. (Get glue into the holes). 240. The door hinge pin is a 2-56 x 3/8” long philips head bolt with a small pattern lock nut. If the top hinge has difficulty seating in or the bolt holes don’t line up, then you still have epoxy present under the hinge in the fuselage against the former.
  • Page 82: Door Latch

    (Door Latch) 241. Locate the door latch hardware bag and insert the body through the door and secure with the large nut. 243. Glue FA3 into position as shown and adjust the nuts to achieve the desired fit. Once satisfied, cut off the excess protruding threads.
  • Page 83: Window Spacer Frames

    (Window Spacer Frames) 244. Glue in the 1/16” ply spacers and wipe away any excess glue. You can buy a tub of small binder clips at Staples and clamp the frames in place or use the actual glass pieces with tape to hold the frames in the fuselage while the glue cures.
  • Page 84: Tail Wheel Assembly

    247. Insert a 7/32” diameter collar onto the tail gear (Tail Wheel Assembly) wire as shown in the first photo. Then slip on a thin nylon flat washer followed by the tail wheel assembly 246. Assemble the tail wheel by inserting a 8-32 x 2” followed by another nylon washer.
  • Page 85: Main Wheels

    248. Install the tail gear with the three aluminum 249. To aid in the removal of the tail gear wire tie a straps. Secure with #2 x 1/2” long philips head screws. piece of string together and slip it under the wire where it goes into the fuselage and pull up.
  • Page 86 10” wheel 11.6” bush wheel 251. Assemble axles onto the landing gear. Tighten hex nut onto axle bottoming it out onto the threads. Add flat washers followed by a lock nut. Slip on your wheel and the wheel collar. Mark and cut down the axle.
  • Page 87: Fuselage Truss Bracing

    (Fuselage Truss Bracing) 252. Cut and glue in 3/8” square balsa truss bracing on the fuselage sides, bottom and one on the top. These are glued onto the corner balsa sticks, not onto the lite ply sheets. Check wing and stab tubes for parallel alignment before gluing in the bracing.
  • Page 88: Fuselage Splice Reinforcing

    The remaining two are glued to the fuselage side behind former F7. (Fuselage Splice Reinforcing) 254. Locate ten 1/16” ply reinforcing plates. Eight of these get glued around the inside of the fuselage between formers F7 and F8.
  • Page 89: Steps

    255. There are two more slightly larger splice plates that gets glued to the underside (inside) of the fuselage bottom FB3A/FB3B. Note; pictures show it on the outside of the fuselage for clarity but they are glued underneath. 257. Add tape to the balsa corner where the bump out is on the one hole.
  • Page 90 261. Tape around the protruding tube and block sand down to the tape. Then de-burr the inside of the tube 259. Using a 7/32” diameter drill bit, drill through the with an x-acto knife. balsa rounded corner and all the way through the 3/4” square bass block.
  • Page 91: Rear Wing Bolt Reinforcing

    262. Insert the step fully and mark the center line of the aluminum step onto the bass block. Then draw a cross line in the middle of the block. (Rear Wing Bolt Reinforcing) 264. Locate the 1/2” diameter dowel with hole in the center and epoxy into place.
  • Page 92: Mounting Engine

    266. Drill and dowel peg the firewall with 1/8” diameter (Mounting Engine) dowels by 1/2” long. 265. Use one or both of the 3/8” thick ply FES spacer plates or sturdy standoffs to space out your engine (8 3/8” plus or minus from back of spinner to engine box firewall).
  • Page 93 270. We added an aftermarket arm and manual linkage for the choke. 269. Locate and mount your throttle servo. An extra servo mount is included if you wish to add a choke servo to your engine. 271. Inside the engine box is plenty of room to mount your ignition module, battery and remote kill etc.
  • Page 94: Exhaust Stack Extension

    Straight tail piece shown. 272. Glue into position the 1/16” ply firewall covers. A rubber grommet is supplied for the passage of the fuel line through the firewall cover. 273. Mark and cut as shown. (Exhaust stack extension) Do to the tall height of the fuselage and the engine being mounted high it might be necessary to extend the exhaust stacks by 1 1/2”...
  • Page 95 275. With the muffler removed, file a chamfer or radius 274. Drill four 3/32” diameter holes half way down the on the end of the muffler stack. Clean out all the filings. flared end 90° apart. Then cut four vertical slots to the holes.
  • Page 96: Mounting Cowl

    278. Center the COWL OUTLET OPENING template on the bottom of the cowl, mark and cut out. 279. Locate the 1/4” thick lite ply C1, C2 and CP cowl mounting parts. Make three mounts using C1 parts and six mounts using the C2 parts. Use slow or thick CA glue and add a fillet of glue on the inside corners.
  • Page 97 280. Epoxy on the three C1 mounts to the fire wall as 282. Sand the top three mounts to the contour of the shown. top decking. And also check that the side mounts are flush. 281. Epoxy the C2 mounts to the sides as shown. Three on each side.
  • Page 98: Cooling Baffles

    285. Drill 1/16” diameter pilot holes and install #4x1/2” long screws with bonded washers. When finished, thin CA harden the screw holes. 284. Slip on the cowl and your spinner. Once satisfied with the alignment, tape the cowl in place. COOLING BAFFLES: 286.
  • Page 99: Choke & Needle Valve Access

    CHOKE & NEEDLE VALVE ACCESS: 287. Make openings in the cowl for your needle valve and choke wire access using scrap cardstock as guides.
  • Page 100: Needle Valve Modification

    NEEDLE VALVE MODIFICATION: This is a modification I made on my DA 150 engine because of two reasons. The first is you would need to make a long skinny screw driver to reach the needle valves and the second is the mufflers are in the way for a straight shot to them making it difficult to engage the tool into the needle valve slotted head.
  • Page 101: Fin And Rudder

    FIN AND RUDDER (Tail Tube Sockets) 1. If you haven’t cut the tail tube sockets yet, then see step 103 in the fuselage section of this manual. Gather up the FRONT FIN, MID FIN AND REAR FIN tubes and check that they fit through the fin ribs. 3.
  • Page 102 4. Dry assemble all the ribs over the plans. 6. Glue in G5 and P5. 5. Clamp a 90° angle “straight edge” to the bottom rib and glue together the tips of D6 and R3. Then add glue to the remaining structure. 7.
  • Page 103 8. Glue on C7 and C6. 10. Glue in the cardboard socket tubes. Do not trim off the excess. 9. Sand the overhanging balsa C7 flush with the bottom of the rib.
  • Page 104: Sheeting

    11. Glue in M3 to both sides of P4. Carve and sand the (Sheeting) one on the top side to the ribs. 12. From a 3/32” thick 6” wide balsa sheet cut the dorsal fin sheeting. Cut the other side from the same sheet.
  • Page 105 14. From a 3” wide sheet, cut the rear fin sheeting. Cut 16. Glue the fin and rudder skin together. the other side from the same sheet. 15. Cut the rudder sheeting from a 6” wide sheet. Use the scrap cut off sheet to fill in the bottom rear of the sheeting.
  • Page 106 17. So there wont be “a lump” under the skins, bevel 18. Glue on the fin sheeting first. Use a clamp where the dorsal meets the fin. C3 and C4 and the front section of rib R2. 19. Glue on the dorsal fin sheeting.
  • Page 107 22. Cut and separate the fin from the rudder using a razor saw. 20. Glue on the rudder sheeting. Use a 1” 90° angle to keep the trailing edge straight i.e. not to create a wavy edge. Weigh down with weights. 22.
  • Page 108: Tips, Leading And Trailing Edges

    25. Glue on FTE to the back of the fin. 23. Glue on the skins to the other side. IMPORTANT! Do not use any weights on this side or you may warp the L.E. of the rudder or T.E. of the fin. (It has a slight 26.
  • Page 109 28. Glue on DLE. Then cut and sand the overhanging 29. Epoxy (15 to 30 min.) R1D to the bottom of the fin. piece flush with the bottom of the rib. Arrow faces towards the front. 30. Glue on R1C and R1E.
  • Page 110 32. Glue RLE on to the leading edge of the rudder followed by the top tip block. 31. Cut the fin tip FT to your choosing. The slanted forward “balance” line is scale. For use as a dedicated tow plane, cut the block on the hinge line. 33.
  • Page 111: Carving, Shaping & Sanding

    (Carving, shaping & sanding) 34. Carve and shape the leading edge of the fin first followed by the top block. Then do the dorsal fin leaving the DFR dorsal fin radius last. (Hinging) 35. Mark the hinge point locations and drill 3/16” diameter holes.
  • Page 112: Torque Tube

    37. Lower the fin onto the fuselage and if it is not sitting all the way down, then one or more of the tubes are just a little too long. Remove the tube in question. Check it without the tube in place to verify. Adjust length of tube as needed.
  • Page 113 39. Using a 3/16” dia. drill bit, drill through the balsa 42. Using 30 min. epoxy, thoroughly glue the rod into blocks that is glued into the base of the rudder. Then the tube and the toque tube assembly into place. drill a few 1/16”...
  • Page 114 45. Cut the head off of a 4-40 x 1 1/4” long socket 46. Mount this to the tube using two 4-40 hex nuts and head bolt and file black oxide off the end. Silver solder blue thread locker so its 1/16” inside of the tail cone the ball onto the end.
  • Page 115: Stabilizer And Elevator

    STABILIZER AND ELEVATOR 1. Cut out the parts from the three 1/2” balsa sheets and the stabilizer joiner tubes to length. 3. Glue two M1’s together. 4. Assemble ribs S2 through S7 onto D1 and D2. 2. Glue B1 and B2 onto rib S3 as shown. Then C1 and C2 on the back sides.
  • Page 116 5. Insert the rear and front cardboard stab tubes into 8. Clamp on S1 (do not glue on) and trim the socket tubes flush. place followed by the M1, The arrow faces forward on M1 and the servo wire notch is on top. Do not glue yet. 6.
  • Page 117 11. Glue in gussets G1, G2 and 3G. 10. Glue in P1 followed by ribs E1 and E2. 12. Cut and glue on the hinge blocks from 1/2” x 3/8” balsa sticks. If you are going to do the scale elevator balance, then glue the last two hinge blocks to rib S6.
  • Page 118 Picture shown is going to be for the tow plane version. 14. Lay a strip of tape down over the ribs and sand C3 to the contour of the ribs. The bottom will be done 13. Glue M2 in place on both top and bottom of P1. later.
  • Page 119: Top Sheeting

    (Top Sheeting) 15. Make up the 3/32” thick balsa skins. See SKETCH- 3 in the back of this manual. 16. Glue on the skins using tape and weights. 18. Carve and sand M1 flush with the ribs. 17. Cut the elevator from the stabilizer using a razor saw.
  • Page 120: Mounting Servo

    19. Lay a strip of tape down over the ribs and sand C3 21. Install your servo arm onto the servo. Center the to the contour of the ribs opening of the cardboard ELV. SERVO ARM TEMPLATE and tape onto the ribs. Mark left or right onto the template.
  • Page 121: Bottom Sheeting

    22. Remove the servo and thin CA harden the 24. Skin the bottom of the stabilizer using tape only. mounting holes. 25. Use the templates and cut the servo arm exits from the bottom of the stabilizers. (Bottom Sheeting) 23. Skin the bottom of the elevator using tape at the sides and leading edge.
  • Page 122: Tip Blocks

    26. Glue on the balsa leading and trailing edges and 27. Epoxy on S1 to the root of the stab. plane and sand them to the skins’ contour. Do not round the L.E. or bevel the elevators yet. (Tip Blocks) 28.
  • Page 123: Hinging

    (Hinging) 30. Mark the hinge point locations and drill 3/16” dia. holes. Bevel the leading edge of the elevators. 29. Glue the stab tip assembly together and to the stab and elev. Carve and shape to the skins. 31. Round over the stab. tips, leading and trailing edges.
  • Page 124: Horn And Pushrod

    (Horn and Pushrod) 32. Reinstall your servo and arm. Mark the location for the elevator G-10 control horn. It has an engraved letter “E” on it. Cut the slot in the elev. behind the D2 lite ply. 34. We like using heavy duty 4-40 ball links and titanium rods.
  • Page 125: Right Wing

    RIGHT WING 1. A pin-able work board is not necessary. Lay down the right wing sheet and tape wax paper over the inboard panel covering the main spar and drag spar. 4. Install a 6-32 blind nut into the recessed pocket of WM4 and secure with epoxy.
  • Page 126 6. Glue WM1 to rib W4A. (Mirror image for Left Wing) 8. Pre mount your flap servo now and thin CA harden the servo mounting holes. (Mirror image for Left Wing) 7. Glue W4B and W4C to rib W4A. (Mirror image for Left Wing)
  • Page 127 9. Glue WM2 to rib W6. (Mirror image for Left Wing) 11. Glue WM3 to rib W8. (Mirror image for Left Wing) 12. Slip on rib W6 and W7/W8 onto WM4/WM5 10. Glue rib W7 to rib W8. Second picture, Do not add assembly.
  • Page 128 14. Glue rib W1B to the spar using the W1B ANGLE 17. Slip in the wing tube socket but do not glue to the ribs at this time. Also do not trim it flush with the root SET GAUGE. All remaining ribs out to the tip will be perpendicular to the work surface.
  • Page 129 21. Glue on rib W17 to the spar perpendicular to your work surface. Line up the tab marks on the plans. 20. Lay down the outer panel bass spar against the end of the inboard spar and up on the WJ17. The spar ends will be glued together later.
  • Page 130 25. Glue on rib W11. 24. Using 30 minute epoxy, add a little epoxy glue between the spar ends and glue the WJ assembly down onto the spars. Place the scrap spar piece that was cut from the inboard panel and place it into the top spar rib notches for alignment.
  • Page 131 29. Glue in WD2. Do not glue to W1B at this time. 27. Insert and then seam the two left over pieces with tape and glue from W2 to W4A. Coat the edges of the tape with glue also. Do not glue conduit tube to W1B at 30.
  • Page 132 31. Use the W1B ANGLE SET GAUGE to now glue 33. Install WD4A/WD4B into position but do not glue in yet. the rib to the conduit tube and to WD2 and WD3. 32. Glue together WD4A to WD4B and WD5A to 34.
  • Page 133 35. Glue in WD1. Arrow is towards the root and points WS6 on both sides of the spar. Glue in the remaining sheer webs on the inboard wing panel. Note, SW1B the arrow is towards the root rib and points up. 36.
  • Page 134 41. At one end add a bevel around the 1/2” diameter dowel and glue into position. 42. Lift the wing off your building board and thoroughly glue all your joints. 40. Trim and sand flush with the rib the top and bottom spars at both ends of the wing.
  • Page 135 43. Cut 8 flap hinge blocks from 3/8” x 3/4” balsa stick. 44. Place the wing back down onto the plans and glue them to the drag spars as shown. Use flap rib W4D to set the angle of your hobby table saw (if you have one) and run the stick through the saw to cut the edge to an angle.
  • Page 136 48. Cut to shape two blocks from 3/4” x 1” balsa pieces to sandwich the horn. Remove or add material to the pieces to adjust the location of the flap horn. Then epoxy the blocks, horn and W4D into place. 46.
  • Page 137 50. Glue in gusset WG4 below the bottom edges of the 52. Clean up any protruding sheer webs. two overlapping drag spars. 53. Carve and sand the top of the balsa leading edge 51. If you need to clean up the drag spars lay strips of cap to the contour of the ribs.
  • Page 138 54. Add a piece of wax paper onto a scrap piece of lite ply or the aileron servo hatch and hold this flat up against the bottom of the drag spars and rib W12. Glue WA3 into position. Arrow points to W12 rib. Then glue in W12A.
  • Page 139 57. Add a 1/8” thick scrap balsa between the aileron 60. Glue this to the trailing edge of the outboard wing and flap rib. The balsa and T pin has to be below the panel. Position it so it overhangs the drag spar by top edge of the ribs.
  • Page 140 61. Cut to length 1/8” thick by 2” wide balsa sheeting and glue this to the trailing edge of the inboard wing panel. Position it so the front corner edge is even with the previous sheeting installed. 64. Use one 1/8” x 6” dedicated sheet to sheet the last rib bay out at the wing tip.
  • Page 141 66. Use the left over 45° leading edge scrap piece to 68. Trim to size and pre soak the leading edge top make and extend the aileron top sheeting. The aileron sheeting with Windex and dry clamp it to the wing so it sheeting is from a 4”...
  • Page 142 69. Cut and glue on the 1/8” x 1/2” wide top cap strips 71. Carve and sand the balsa leading edge cap to the centered on the ribs. contour of the ribs. Protect the ribs with tape. 72. Reinforce the ribs on both sides of the wing strut mount using 1/8”...
  • Page 143 73. Cut to length 1/8” thick by 1” wide balsa sheeting and glue this to the trailing edge of the inboard wing panel. Position it so it overhangs the drag spar by about 1/16”. 76. Cut to length from the 6” wide dedicated sheeting and glue it to the first two rib bays at the root.
  • Page 144 78. Sheet the last rib bay out at the wing tip from the 6“ 80. Reinforce the bottom 1” wide sheeting where the wide dedicated sheet. Trim the front edge so it is on flap hinge blocks are located by using 1/8” thick x 1/2” half the spar width.
  • Page 145 83. Glue a cap strip across the front and remove the 82. Screw the flap balsa hatch WF2 to WF1 using #2 x hatch and thin CA harden the screw holes. 1/2” long screws. Glue this into the wing but don’t accidentally glue the hatch in.
  • Page 146 84. Screw the aileron lite ply hatch WA2A to WA1 86. Glue in 3/8” balsa triangle stock to both sides of the using #2 x 1/2” long screws. Glue this into the wing but aileron bay. don’t accidentally glue the hatch in. Then glue a cap strip across the front and remove the hatch and thin CA harden the screw holes.
  • Page 147 89. Sand the perimeter of the wing, aileron and flap. Cut and remove the protruding W7 rib extension, Mark the location of the flap hinges on the wing. 88. Locate the wing strut mounting bolt hole. Cut the balsa skin away to fit the lite ply WM6. Glue this in and the 1/64”...
  • Page 148 wing in the flap area. 90. Face the leading edge of the flap with 1/4” thick x 2“ wide balsa sheet. Cut a notch to fit over the extension of the flap horn. 91. Trim a 1/2” thick x 3” wide balsa to a width of 2” and face the leading edge of the aileron.
  • Page 149 94. Cut a 3/8” thick x 3” wide balsa sheet in half length 95. Make a hole in the trailing edge for the flap horn to wise and glue onto the leading edge of the wing. Note pass through. the 45° overlap at the wing break. 96.
  • Page 150: Flap Hinging

    98. Locate the two Flap Drill Jig pieces as shown in first picture. Glue one of long narrow pieces onto one of the FLP DRL JIG (tall side) piece flush with the bottom and flush on the sides. Orientation as shown in picture.
  • Page 151 99. Glue in the 3/16” I.D. brass tube. The tube must be 101. Glue on the last tall side piece. within the tall side piece and not be overhanging. Then glue on one of the short narrow pieces as shown. 100.
  • Page 152 102. Mark a line down the center of the bottom of the 104. Repeat for the wing side. (WING of the jig is drill jig. against the wing). 105. Dry test fit all the flap hinges. 103. Center the drill jig onto the flap “marked” hinge line.
  • Page 153: Wing Tips

    (Wing Tips) 106. Stack and glue WT2A through WT9A to WT1. Then stack and glue WT2B through WT9B into position. Pictures shown are for the right wing tip. (Mirror image for Left Wing) 107. Rough shape and sand the wing tip and glue on with the aileron taped into position.
  • Page 154 108. Temporary tape on W1A and shape the leading edge.
  • Page 155: Aileron Hinging

    110. Trace the root and tips with the AILERON BEVEL (Aileron Hinging) GUIDE. Bevel the ailerons only and dry fit with hinges to the wing. 109. With the aileron still taped to the wing, mark the hinge locations. Mark your centerlines with the HINGE CL TOOL and drill 3/16”...
  • Page 156 111. Locate the aileron horn pocket and cut away the 113. Deflect the aileron to its full down position. Now skin. lower the flap slightly. You’ll notice the bottom edge of the aileron gets closer to the flap. Mark a parallel line on the aileron to give a 1/16”...
  • Page 157: Aileron Servo Tray

    (Aileron Servo Tray) 114. Locate one of the SIDE MOUNT SERVO TRAY. 116. Trace the aileron mounting rail onto the aileron servo cover. Install your servo into the tray and mark its position. Trim the servo mount where necessary and glue into position. 115.
  • Page 158: Wing Struts

    WING STRUTS: 1. Remove the ailerons and flaps from the wings and slip on the root end caps. (Do not glue them on at this time). Also check that the wing tube socket does not protrude past the root end cap. 4.
  • Page 159 5. Locate the strut attachment straps. They are labeled L, R and W’s. L strap is left side at the fuselage, R strap is right side at the fuselage and the W straps are out on the wings. Test fit the fuselage straps into the slots on the fuselage.
  • Page 160 Left and Right strut ends shown Left strut ends shown Right strut ends shown 7. Sand smooth and test fit them into the wing struts. They should slide easily.
  • Page 161 8. Slip in the Right strut end into the Right wing strut. This end of the strut has a full height single bevel cut. 10. Repeat last two steps for the Left wing strut. 11. Doing a dry run, bolt on the wing struts. Tape a 1/32”...
  • Page 162 12. Check that the wings are parallel to the stabilizers. 13. When satisfied, remove the struts and roughen up If one wing needs to be raised you can simply add the inside of the wing struts. Epoxy in the strap ends shims between the aluminum strut and wing.
  • Page 163 14. Once the epoxy has cured. Remove them and mark the ends for drilling holes. The first mark is 3/8” from the edge and then 1” from the first mark. 16. Drill holes on your drill press using a 9/64” diameter drill bit.
  • Page 164 A look at the finished strut ends. 18. The last thing to do is to glue on the root end cap. A thickened mixture of epoxy is brushed onto the end cap and set into place. (You can thicken it with cabosil, micro balloons or thixotropic silica).
  • Page 165: Finishing

    FINISHING: 1. Prep the model for finishing. 2. Cover the bottom of the fuselage first then glue in the two yellow pull pull exit guides for the tail wheel steering. 4. You can now remove the tail wheel assembly to continue with finishing the covering.
  • Page 166 Finish covering. Windshield and frames installed. Cooling baffles painted flat black and screen added to Fuselage almost finished. air inlet. Screen is glued in from the inside of the cowl.
  • Page 167 Tail installed. Door latches installed. (these decals not included) Paint the thin G-10 door hinge caps. The very short ones glue onto the fuselage in front of the hinge knuckle. The longest hinge caps are glued onto the top door hinge. Do not accidentally glue them onto the fuselage or the door wont open.
  • Page 168 Glue in the top and side windows using RC-56 or clear Install your pushrods. (rods, clevises or ball links etc. canopy glue. not supplied in kit.) Landing gear and cover mounted. The luggage door on the left side behind the wing is an excellent place to mount and access your receiver switches.
  • Page 169: Balancing

    3. Raise the model off the floor using a pulley and rope BALANCING: system etc. Add weights on top of the cowl in the location of the engine box. With the model finished, locate the two CG BALANCE TOOL and slip it onto the wing tube. Install the wings and bolt on the wing struts out at the wings only.
  • Page 170 CG right on with 10” utility wheels. 4. Screw the weights onto the sides of the engine box. Here we have about a pound screwed on. These removable weights are for fine tuning the CG. And still OK with Du-Bro 7” wheels. 5.
  • Page 171: Control Throws

    CONTROL THROWS: Control throws are measured at the widest part of the control surfaces. CONTROL HIGH RATE LOW RATE EXPO AILERONS 1 3/4” UP 1 1/2” UP 1 1/2” DOWN 1 1/4” DOWN ELEVATOR 3 5/8” UP 3 1/4” UP 3 5/8”...
  • Page 172: Additional Items Needed

    ADDITIONAL ITEMS NEEDED: Gas engine: 85cc to 120cc for scale or sport flying. 150cc to 200cc for aero towing gliders. We used a DA 150 for all around sport and aero towing with a Mejzlik 28,5 x 12 S carbon fiber 3 bladed prop. Spinner: 4 ½”...

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