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The Albatross is a unique slow flyer designed to put its nose on the horizon and level its own wings without a pilot. It is
very quiet and designed to use inexpensive electronics. It is one of my favorite night planes and small park flyers
because it is quiet and easy to fly. The fuselage is a strong solid block of EPP foam which increases its durability. You
will cut holes in the EPP fuselage to install your radio rather than installing electronics in a hollow fuselage. We
recommend you build your Albatross with a pod mounted motor because it protects the prop and motor and leaves room
for a camera up front. The Albatross is available with ailerons for more advanced flying and FPV but don't underestimate
the stability and fun of the polyhedral wing.
Instructions included for the front mount and pod motor and the polyhedral and aileron wing
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The optional pod mount and/or aileron wings do not change the CG location.
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Laminate included only for the fuselage. The wing is NOT laminated.
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The aileron wing has the ailerons precut in the wing.
Center of Gravity: 3.75" (9.5 cm) back on the wing.
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Elevator throws: 3/8" (1 cm) up/down. Rudder 1" (2.5 cm) left/right. Ailerons: 3/8" up/down.
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On the polyhedral wing the wing tip angle is up 5" to top of the foam on each wingtip.
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On the polyhedral wing the rudder servo is plugged into the aileron plug on the receiver.
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The aileron wing has each wing tip up 2.5" on each wingtip or 5" up on one tip when the other wing is flat.
Front wing dowel is back 9" from the nose of the fuselage.
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The back wing dowel is ½" behind the back of the wing.
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Use six to eight #64 size rubber bands to secure the wing.
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Best flying weight: 19-27 oz (570-810 gm) Lighter always flies better!!!
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2812 motor, 25A ESC, 2 (or 4 for wing with ailerons) mg90 servos.
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1300 to 3000 mA 3S lipo battery recommended.
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Launch at 1/2 throttle and throttle up.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED
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All electronics and accessories as desired (motor, props, esc, transmitter, receiver and servos)
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Low-temperature hot glue gun (and low-temp rated glue)
"Goop" brand glue, (Shoe Goo, or Quick Grip glue can also be used)
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Reinforced packing tape, preferably 2" Scotch Extreme Tape
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Metal straight edge
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Soldering iron (either adjustable-depth tip, or a wheel collar to restrict depth)
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Fine grit sand paper
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Pliers or side cutters
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Razor blade
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Electric drill and small bit
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Philips head screwdriver
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Iron for applying laminate (hobby iron is preferable, but clothing iron may be used)
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Velcro strip
ALBATROSS by CRASHTESTHOBBY.COM
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Summary of Contents for CRASHTESTHOBBY.COM ALBATROSS
- Page 1 ALBATROSS by CRASHTESTHOBBY.COM The Albatross is a unique slow flyer designed to put its nose on the horizon and level its own wings without a pilot. It is very quiet and designed to use inexpensive electronics. It is one of my favorite night planes and small park flyers because it is quiet and easy to fly.
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Page 2: Hinging The Rudder And Elevator
The tail, the rudder, and the elevator are hinged with a thin layer of “Goop”, Shoe Goo or Quick Grip glue. Laminating the tail adds a lot of weight behind the CG. We recommend you don’t laminate the tail surfaces so you can keep your Albatross light. - Page 3 Install a carbon spar in the horizontal elevator to add strength and improve the function of the elevator. Cut a slit with a razor blade 2.5" back from the front of the horizontal tail that is 12" wide leaving 3" on each end uncut. Sand the flat carbon spar lightly so the CA glue will have a better grip.
- Page 4 25. Put hot glue in the slot, and then insert the spar. Fill in any gaps above the spar with hot glue, and smooth the surface. 26. Use snips to cut off any excess spar sticking out on the sides. 27.
- Page 5 45. Use hot glue and glue the spars in the slots making sure they are touching each other and well glued to the wood brace. 46. Cut the ailerons in the center of the wing so there is a 1" gap on each side between the aileron and fuselage so there is room to attach the rubber bands to the rear dowel.
- Page 6 53. Gently push the servo wire into the slit leaving the last 1" of the wire out of the center of the wing. 54. Using hot glue or goop, glue in the servos and secure the wires where they come out in the center of the wing. 55.
- Page 7 67. Press the wing dowel into the slit in the foam down 3/4" from the top of the fuselage. 68. Use a Phillips screwdriver to STAB a vertical hole in the TOP of the fuselage behind the dowel. 69. Some builders prefer to pre-drill a hole with a 3/8” bit. 70.
- Page 8 Build instructions for fuselage with nose mounted motor 81. Two layers of Formica plate will be glued on the front of the fuselage 82. Put the hot glue on the foam first because the Formica plate causes the glue to cool too quickly. 83.
- Page 9 92. Hold your motor mounting base on the Formica plates, and use a pen to mark the holes for the screws. 93. Use a drill and a small bit to drill pilot holes in where you placed the marks. 94. Screw your motor mount base to the nose of the plane. Do not over-tighten the screws, as it may crack the Formica plates. Install the dowels that will hold the rubber bands that secure the wing.
- Page 10 104. Use your ruler to mark the center point at the front and back of the horizontal tail piece. Make a matching center mark on the top of the fuselage, just in front of the piece you just cut out. 105.
- Page 11 SERVOS & PUSH RODS 112. The servos should sit no more than 2” (0-5 cm) in front of the upright tail piece with the arms facing outwards, and the leads pointing towards the nose of the plane. 113. The servos can either be upright or laid on their side. Both methods work well. 114.
- Page 12 122. Use a pointed blade or box knife to cut a slot completely through the elevator for the horn. Start just behind the hinge line. 123. Remove the extra tab that comes attached on the back of the horns. 124. Push the horn up through the bottom of the elevator so that the base is flat against the bottom of the elevator. Use hot glue along the base of the servo horn, and around the top and bottom of the horn, to keep it in place as the hot glue cools, make sure the horn is facing straight forward, and that the holes in the front of the horn are directly over the elevator’s hinge.
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Page 13: Battery Placement
CENTER OF GRAVITY - CG The CG on the Albatross is 3.75” (9.5 cm) back from the leading edge of the wing, and relative to the wing, not the fuselage. Install the wing mounting dowels back 9" and 21" from the nose of the plane. Install your battery 2" back from the nose of the fuselage. - Page 14 165. NOTE!!! Launching the Albatross is different than other planes. The Albatross is designed to be self stabilizing so it will level its nose and wings without flyer input but it has to be moving for this to happen. The downward angle of the motor mount mean the plane is much more likely to nose dive than take off until it is up to speed if it is launched with too forceful a throw, or with too much throttle or throttle advanced too quickly.
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