Table of Contents Introduction & Disclaimer Tools and components required for assembly Assembly tips Elevators Wings Rudder o Horn installation o Option 1 – Push/Pull setup o Option 2 – Pull/Pull setup Under Carriage o Tail wheel assembly & installation o Main landing gear installation Fuselage Setup...
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Introduction Congratulations on your purchase of the new TS 120cc Edge/Slick/Extra. Hailing from the pioneering factory of leading aerobatic models, the TS 120cc Edge/Slick/Extra has been specifically designed and developed to cover all aspects of aerobatic flight. With extensive design work the TS 120cc Edge/Slick/Extra. has been developed to be a strong yet light weight aircraft that is precise for your IMAC schedules, superior in stalled/ high alpha flight and capable of performing the very latest extreme 3D aerobatic manoeuvres.
Tools and components required for assembly To complete the TS 120cc Edge/Slick/Extra you will require the following tools: - Hobby knife with a selection of sharp blades Electric drill & various drill bits Covering iron/heat gun Needle files Adjustable spanner Small flat head and Philips screwdrivers Allan keys/drivers (1.5/2.5/3/4mm) Sandpaper and block...
Assembly Tips Before starting work on the model, inspect the fuselage, wings, stabilisers, rudder and the under carriage for any damage/defects. If possible, do a dry fit of the major components to check the fit. Use the covering iron or heat gun to shrink out any wrinkles that may have developed during transit from the factory.
Elevators Locate the elevator fittings bag from the accessories box. It will contain the items as shown in the image below: - Take the horns and back plates and rough up the surfaces with rough sandpaper. This will provide the glue with a key when it is installed in the elevator. Repeat this process for all the horns and back plates.
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Enlarge the slot in the covering to allow the horn assembly to be dry fitted. Tip: - If the horn assembly is a tight fit, insert one horn into a slot and ‘work’ it back a forth, and in and out to loosen the hole.
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Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and liberally coat the insides of both slots and the horn assembly. Insert the horn assembly and push in firmly, remove the excess epoxy with alcohol and a clean kitchen towel. Insert a 3mm bolt through the horns to keep them aligned whilst the epoxy cures. Tip: - Use the bolt to line the holes in the horns up with the hinge line of the elevator.
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Make up the servo pushrods using the turnbuckles and ball links as shown. Use the spanner found in the spares bag in the accessories box to help. Note: - There are two types of ball links in the hardware bag, one with a base on the brass ball and one without.
Wings Locate the aileron fittings bag from the accessories box. It will contain the items as shown in the image below: - Note: - If you wish to use the 3 servo per wing option, there is an extra set of horns and back plates in the spares bag in the accessories box.
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Insert the horn assembly and draw around the base plate. Remove the horn assembly and again, carefully cut inside the drawn lines, leaving about 2mm clearance. Clean the area with alcohol. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and liberally coat the insides of both slots and the horn assembly, as we did with the elevator slots and horns.
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Insert the horn assembly and push in firmly, remove the excess epoxy with alcohol. Don’t forget to add the 3mmm bolt to keep the horns in line. When the glue on the horns has dried sufficiently, you can start to cut out for the servos. Locate the holes that you will be using and carefully cut the covering away to expose the servo support beneath.
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Pull the string from the wing root and carefully draw the servo wire through, take care not to catch the plug on any of the wing ribs. Repeat this process for the other servos. A completed servo bay is shown below for reference, notice that the bolt is directly above the hinge line.
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Make up the servo pushrods using the turnbuckles and ball links as shown. Use the spanner found in the spares bag in the accessories box to help. Note: - There are two types of ball links in the hardware bag, one with a base on the brass ball and one without.
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Fuselage Before starting to fit your engine or radio equipment into the fuselage, take a few minutes to apply thin cyano to the tabs and slots in the plywood construction. This will considerably stiffen the fuselage, and fill any gaps that may have been missed during construction in the factory. Locate the power fixings hardware bag in the accessories box, the contents will be as follows: - You will find a range of templates for mounting your engine in the accessories box too.
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Tip: - To assist the engine installation, temporarily fit the undercarriage legs. Choose the template that most closely matches your engine and line the laser etched lines with those on the firewall, and clamp in place. Tip: - Cut notches from the template edges to allow you to clearly see the lines on the firewall. Now, using an electric drill, drill a hole through one of the top holes of the template and through the firewall.
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Take your engine and temporarily bolt it to the firewall using a bolt, a stand-off and a washer supplied in the hardware pack. Use another stand-off to support the opposite corner of the engine's back plate. Remove the cowl bolts from the front of the fuselage and offer up the lower half of the cowl to check the how well it is centred.
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Once you are completely satisfied with the test fit, use the template to drill the remaining three holes and fit your engine properly. Note: - We have used 5 minute epoxy to fix some 18mm triangle stock around the motor box and ‘F1’. This is optional and not a requirement.
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Locate one of the servo hole ‘doublers’ from the accessory box, and glue it on the inside of the motor box to help with the throttle servo screw support. Drill a hole through the firewall for your carburettor feed line from the fuel tank, and run the tube through it.
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Example of a throttle servo, header and canister installation is shown below: - Make up a throttle linkage using the carbon tube, push rod and ball links included in the hardware pack and set your throttle up in your preferred manner.
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Cut out the canister tunnel vent panels and iron down the edges. Locate the vent panels from the accessory box and fit to the corresponding area on the tunnel. Drill pilot holes through the panels into the hardwood support below and fix with wood screws. Tip: - To neatly remove the covering on the vent panels, first iron down the covering to the panel.
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Tip: - Apply masking tape to the area you need to cut out. Doing this does two things, firstly, it allows you to draw the outline on the cowl without the mark rubbing off and secondly, it offers some chip protection to the paint when cutting.
Undercarriage Tail wheel assembly & installation Locate the tail wheel assembly in the accessories box. Using a 1.5mm Allen driver, remove all the grub screws from the collets and tiller hub. Apply blue threadlok to them and replace. Remove the collets either side of the wheel and apply some grease to the axle.
Main landing gear installation Note: - If you temporarily attached the under carriage legs to the fuselage, now is the time to attach it properly. Locate the under carriage hardware pack from the accessories box. It will contain the following items: - Also, gather together the spats, cuffs, wheels and under carriage legs ready for assembly: - First, notice that the undercarriage legs are airfoiled, the front of the legs is thicker than the rear.
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Offer the under carriage legs up to the mounting plate on the fuselage, don’t forget the correct orientation. Using the bolts, spring washers, washers and nyloc nuts in the hardware pack, fix the under carriage to the fuselage. Be careful not to over tighten. The bolt assembly is as shown here: - Offer the spat up to the axle and mark a line either side of the axle nut.
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Offer the spat up to the under carriage leg. If it does not fit easily, carefully rub the edge of the leg with sandpaper, both front and rear to ease the edges. Only rub a little of the leg at a time, check the fit of the spat regularly to ensure that you are not taking too much off.
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Remove the grub screw from the rear collet and add a drop of blue threadlok to it then replace. Screw the grub screw down in the position of the flat on the axle, and place the wheel and repeat the procedure for the front collet. Slide the spat over the wheel and using some blue threadlok on the M3 bolts, bolt the spat in place.
Rudder The 120cc Extra/Slick/Edge has been designed with flexibility for the customer in mind; therefore there are two options for controlling the rudder, a push/pull setup or a pull/pull setup. We have left the rudder setup until last so that you can decide which option will give you the best centre of gravity to suit your flying style.
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On the rudder, locate the slots for the horns and carefully cut the covering away to expose the slot. Tip: - Hold a torch, or bright light to the other side of the rudder while you look for the slots… the light will illuminate through the covering.
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Install a 3mm bolt into one side of the horns to keep them aligned, fit a back plate, and push the horns part way though the rudder. Mix up some 30 minute epoxy and liberally coat the rough area of the horn and the back plate with the glue. Get as much glue into the slot as you can manage. Tip: - a thin piece of scrap carbon rod works really well for getting the epoxy down into the slots.
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Now find a point on the rudder hinge line that is in line with one of the horns. Move the horns about until you find the point at which the horn is central to the hinge line. Also consider that the centreline of both holes should also be in line with the hinge line. This can be achieved by taking a rule and lining it through both holes and then pushing it back against the hinge line.
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Now dry fit your servos and drill the pilot holes for the servo screws. Add a drop of thin cyano to the holes to harden the plywood mounting plates, as we did on the wings. Run the included extension leads through the tube inside the fuselage and connect them to your servos.
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Tip: - You may need to stagger the pushrods so that they don’t interfere with each other during their travel. Option 2 – Rudder Pull/Pull setup Locate the following items from within the rudder hardware pack: - Add a drop of oil to the ball links and screw the brass component into the ball link. Locate the pull/pull cable in the fuselage and thread two of the ferrules over the end of one of the wires.
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Repeat this for the other cable. Dry fit your servos and drill the pilot holes for the screws, and add a drop of thin cyano to harden the plywood. When the cyano is dry, install the servos using the hardware included with them. Centre your servos and install the 3.5”...
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Fit the rudder by first removing the rudder hinge pin. Line up the pre-installed hinges and then slide the pin through them. Remove the grub screw from the small collet, add a drop of blue threadlok to it, reinsert it and then attach the collet to the end of the hinge pin. Now the rudder is installed, secure the counterbalance of the rudder to the top of the fin so that it cannot move.
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Install the ball links into the rudder horn using the hardware in the rudder pack. Locate the self-tapping wood screw and a washer from the hardware pack. At the end of the rudder hinge pin recess, drill a small pilot hole and add a drop of thin cyano to it to harden the wood. Screw the screw into the hole.
Setup Install your radio equipment, fuel tank, vent pipe, fuel dot, ignition kill switch & batteries. The image below is of our installation for reference Servo setup Create a new blank model in your transmitter and then attach the servos to your receiver. Make sure that all trims and sub trims are set to zero before you begin.
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Step 3 Now you have 4 linkages identical in length and the left wing in-board servo finished, we will move on to the left wing "out-board" servo. First attach your out-board servo linkage to the 1.75" hole on your servo arm ONLY. Warning - Do not fully attached the linkage to horn and servo arm until you have matched the out- board servo end point to the in-board servo end point.
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The 120cc Extra/Slick/Edge was supplied in the United Kingdom by Gashanger Hobbies / Global RC. The model was assembled and the manual completed by James Dalton & Will Waring. We wish you every success with the maiden flight, and hope that you enjoy many more flights with your T-Storm Bird.
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