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RCRCM Typhoon 2M Instruction Manual

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Typhoon 2M Instruction Manual
Typhoon is a CNC machine moulded, CAD designed slope model
aircraft. This plane has had a development period of over 2 years,
and four separate models to evolve into the highly agile thoroughbred
that you now own. We hope you have a lot of fun with it.
RCRCM Aeroteam, proud manufacturers.

Unpacking

Please unpack the plane carefully making sure that you have
•
retrieved all of the small parts.
Don't throw the box out until you are 100% sure it's empty!
•
Check that all the parts are supplied.
•
If any are missing please contact your vendor immediately.
•
Typhoon 2M parts

Before construction

Start with a clean workbench and cover it with some foam, or a
•
soft thick cloth to protect the finish of the wings and fuselage as
you work.
Be careful not to place the wings or fuselage on any screws or
•
tools etc that can dent or scratch the skin.

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Summary of Contents for RCRCM Typhoon 2M

  • Page 1 Typhoon 2M Instruction Manual Typhoon is a CNC machine moulded, CAD designed slope model aircraft. This plane has had a development period of over 2 years, and four separate models to evolve into the highly agile thoroughbred that you now own. We hope you have a lot of fun with it.
  • Page 2 Be very careful using epoxy and CA so that you don't get any • on to the surfaces of the model during assembly. You can tick off the bullet points on this instruction manual if you • want to follow it to the letter. Remember - check twice –...
  • Page 3 • the flaps need to have about a 20 degree offset towards the leading edge and set at + 35 degrees. Make up your own, or use the RCRCM wiring harness and check • continuity before installing. I use a thin piece of piano wire to thread through the wing plug •...
  • Page 4 Note that the Typhoon is a little tight for servos room so no servo • mounts are included. Instead the servos need to have a couple of turns of masking tape wrapped around them so that they can be glued in without damage. When you are satisfied that you have the correct position for the •...
  • Page 5 First remove the control rod or snake inner. • Attach the clevis to the rod with thick cyano, and when • cured – test that it is very well secured by pulling on it as hard as you can! Next, insert and epoxy the rudder control horn into the •...
  • Page 6 Servo tray: Note: The servo tray as supplied is a blank plywood plate. The reason for this is that these days there are so many servos available and each flyer has his/her favorites. It is impossible to make a generic servo plate with holes that fit all. So we decided to supply a high quality plywood blank that can be cut to fit any installation.
  • Page 7 Then simply cut the snakes to fit, remembering to leave space • for the adjustment clevis. Check for movement and adjust accordingly. • Done! Installing the wiring harness Use the RCRM wiring harness or make your own. • Check continuity! •...
  • Page 8 This can be custom made or just fishing weights etc Here we will deal with the custom made version First, fill a paper (not plastic!) cup with sand – not too wet, • just damp. Alternatively an antique bone china coffee cup will do.
  • Page 9 Now for the last part: • Trial fit the nose weight into the fuselage. Note that you can fettle it with a hammer if it’s a bit too big: Bit of a banger huh? Now fully assemble the plane and test the CG at 80mm to •...
  • Page 10 Flaps? Crikey – they work too! Now you might need the last bit: Control surface movements and CG settings C/G = 80 mm from Leading Edge to start. Move back slowly in small increments to further improve control responses. Control surface settings: (All measured from the outboard trailing edges) GENERAL: Ailerons = + 7 mm, -5 mm Flaperon = +/- 8 mm...
  • Page 11 Crow-Elevator compensation = -4 mm THERMAL (WHAT?) OR PUSSYCAT Thermal or Cruise flap = -2 mm Thermal or Cruise Aileron = -1mm PACEMAKER SWITCHED ON? Ailerons/flaps reflex up = 1-1.5mm...

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