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J.A.E. Racing JAE12G4 Hybrid Building Instructions

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Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G
JAE12G
4
Hybrid
A Zippkits R/C Boat
Building Instructions
2014 JMP Hobby Group LLC – Indiana USA
www.zippkits.com
Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP
1

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Summary of Contents for J.A.E. Racing JAE12G4 Hybrid

  • Page 1 Z I P P M A N U F A C T U R I N G JAE12G Hybrid A Zippkits R/C Boat Building Instructions 2014 JMP Hobby Group LLC – Indiana USA www.zippkits.com Toll Free (866) 922-ZIPP...
  • Page 2 The JAE series was designed and developed as a result of a joint venture between IMPBA Hall of Fame member Rod Geraghty, David Hall, Ron Zaker Jr. & Martin Truex Jr. The main difference between this hull and all the others is the use of sharp edges on the bottom of the sponsons and tub, as opposed to curved surfaces.
  • Page 3 Tools and supplies needed to build  Sanding blocks with 80 and 150 grit paper  Drill with bits (1/16, 3/32, 5/32, ¼ inch)  Square  Flat file  FLAT Workbench  1/2 ounce Medium CA glue and accelerator ...
  • Page 4 Additional items needed to complete  .10-.20 air or water cooled Nitro engine  .150 Collet and flywheel for engine (Zipp 3541 for 5mm)  Starting belt if needed (Zipp 3548)  .150x16 inch cable w/welded 3/16 stub shaft (Zipp 3475) ...
  • Page 5 1/32 plywood parts: 1/16 plywood parts 1/8 plywood parts...

  • Page 6: Miscellaneous Parts

    Miscellaneous parts Foam parts Left Sponson Foam Right Sponson Foam Nose Foam Do an inventory of all the parts, to be sure that everything is there. If anything is missing or damaged, contact us as soon as possible, so that we can get replacements to you quickly.
  • Page 7 Tub Jig We recommend that you make a jig for the tub. This can be as simple as two straight pieces of ½ to ¾ inch thick wood. It can be as elaborate as 1/16 by 1-1/2 inch aluminum angle with adjustment slots for different tub widths.
  • Page 8 Let’s build the tub. First, mark the insides of the tub right and left. The sponson boom hole is toward the bottom of the tub side. Lay these out in a mirror fashion. Make these marks in the front portion of the sides, where it won’t be seen later.
  • Page 9 Flip the tub over and lightly sand the bottom. Holes in bulkheads must be as shown… Now is the time to use your tub jig. If you don’t have the ability to make an aluminum jig, use a pair of thick wooden sticks. Make sure they are straight.
  • Page 10 Set the 1/8 ply transom braces in place against the transom. Measure and cut the 1/8x1/8 basswood to fit between the bulkheads. These get glued with the bottom and reinforce the side to bottom joint. You should end up with 4 pieces. If all is well, glue the aft bottom in place with epoxy.
  • Page 11 Grab the two brass boom tube sleeves, and use 80 grit paper to rough the last ¼ inch or so of each end. Put the rear tube doublers in place and slip a boom tube sleeve and carbon boom tube through the tub and doublers.
  • Page 12 Mix up some 30 minute epoxy, and coat the doublers where they will be in contact with the tub sides and bottom. Align the tubes and clamp in place. Quickly check your measurements and square several times, and make any tiny adjustments before the epoxy starts to cure.
  • Page 13 Check the fit of the foam nose block. If all is well, glue the foam nose block in place with epoxy or poly glue. Allow to cure. Sand the foam flush with the tub sides. Be careful not to sand the tub sides too much.
  • Page 14 Install your engine mounts, then screw the engine in place on the mounts. We recommend Zipp Super Mounts. With the engine in place, we can move on to the shaft tube. This is another area that will need to be done perfectly for a good running hull.
  • Page 15 Try to make sure that the tube sticks through the bulkhead the proper amount, and the rear of the tube is about ¼ inch from the tub bottom. Take your time, and go a little at a time. If you try to rush it, and kink the tube, you will have to start over with a new tube.
  • Page 16 Sand a sharp bevel on the front and rear of the ski bottom sheet, so that it blends into the tub bottom. Do not glue the ski to the tub yet. You can seal the inside of the ski at this point.
  • Page 17 Check the fit of the servo in the tray. You will have to cut a recess for the servo wire in one block. Make sure that the servo is a tiny bit taller that the mount, otherwise, the strap won’t tighten the servo.
  • Page 18 Go ahead and mount the rudder and strut bracket to the transom. The pushrods are next. We like to use .055 music wire for pushrods with a “Z” bend at the servo. The rudder pushrod is 4-1/4 inches long and the throttle is 9-1/4. Make a “Z”...
  • Page 19 Remove everything from the boat in preparation for sealing. Throttle pushrod in place. Use epoxy finishing resin (or West Systems epoxy) to seal the inside of the tub. Be sure to seal around the boom tube sleeves, pushrod holes and all around the servo mounts.
  • Page 20 Once the top sheeting has cured, sand the front of the tub flat and square. Glue the pine tub nose block to the front of the tub. Pine tub nose block in place. Shape the block to match the tub. Finish the nose block with a round, blunt nose.
  • Page 21 Gather all of the parts for the right sponson. The right sponson holds the turn fin, so it has dowels in it, Grab the right foam sponson. Test fit the 3/8 inch wood dowels in the 2 rear holes. Also test fit the 2 brass tubes. They should be a nice fit, without slop.
  • Page 22 When the sponson sides are cured, let’s do the sheeting. This is where the strange order comes in. The sheeting is done in this order because it has to overlap in a specific way. Follow along and you won’t have any trouble.
  • Page 23 Using epoxy, glue R-1 in place on the sponson step. Use masking tape to hold it in place while it cures. It’s okay to repeat the steps on the other sponson. Glue R-2 to the sponson rear. Once these have cured, sand the bottom and sides of R-2 and R-1 flush.
  • Page 24 Once R-4 is cured, sand the front of R-4 flush with the forward bottom. This is exactly like the forward tub bottom. Do not round any corners. Glue R-5 in place. Match the rear to just cover the bevel you sanded in R-4. Leave the rear of this square, just like the tub bottom.
  • Page 25 When cured, sand the nose block to a nice blunt tip. Do not sand off the overhang on the sponson bottom or rear. They should protrude about 1/32 to 1/16 inch beyond the sponson to shear water. Don’t round off any edges… If you have not done so, repeat on the other sponson.
  • Page 26 When you are satisfied with the shaft tube, glue it in place with epoxy. When the epoxy cures, cut the shaft tube so that it is flush with the rear of the strut. Using 30 minute epoxy, seal the bottom of the tub in the area of the ski, and epoxy the ski in place.
  • Page 27 To do this, we will use a drill bit or piece of music wire or anything round and about 3/32 inch diameter. With the boat resting on your FLAT surface, roll the drill bit under the left sponson until it touches.
  • Page 28 Once cured, drill 3/32 holes through the brass and fiberglass booms. Drill these about 3/8 inch from the sponson. Secure the sponsons with 2-56 screws and lock nuts. Brass drilled 3/32 for sponson screws and nuts. Turn Fin Sharpen the outside of the turn fin. Mark the center of the turn fin dowels.

  • Page 29: Final Assembly

    Finishing Sand the tub and sponsons, but be sure to leave the rear overhangs. Fill any holes or imperfections with wood filler. Sand everything with 150. Seal the tub and sponsons with epoxy finishing resin or West Systems epoxy. Be sure that all wood is sealed. Scrape off as much epoxy as you can.
  • Page 30 Use boom tube clamps against the tub to keep the tubes in place. Install your engine mounts Mount your engine back into the engine mounts. Be sure that you have 3/8 to ½ inch from the end of the collet to the shaft tube. Bolt the strut to the transom.
  • Page 31 Setup Set the strut so that it is level with the tub bottom, and touching the ski bottom sheeting. Turn on the radio. Make sure that the steering trim is in the center. Move the steering servo arm so that it is straight up.

  • Page 32: Center Of Gravity

    Take the time to get this right. If you don’t, your boat won’t shut off and will be embarrassing and dangerous. Set your rudder throw to about 3/16 inch either way using your transmitter. Mount your switch through the lid with a waterproof switch assembly.
  • Page 33 The designers strongly recommend that you run you boat first, and don’t be too concerned with the CG unless the boat handles funny. Even then, 99% of the time an ill handling boat is either built crooked or has a turn fin issue. Running It’s better to start with a rich needle setting, and “sneak up”...

  • Page 34: Additional Information

    Additional information International Waters Website www.intlwaters.com Excellent forum for information on nitro powered boats NovaRossi US www.novarossi.us Source for the extremely fast NovaRossi 12 and 21 If you have a need for speed, this is the engine you need…...