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Summary of Contents for BotKits.com D2 COMBAT ROBOT KIT
- Page 1 D2 Combat Robot Chassis Kit Instructions CAUTION: THIS ROBOT IS POWERFUL AND FAST! MAKE SURE YOU ONLY OPERATE THE ROBOT IN AN AREA WHERE IT CAN NOT CAUSE DAMAGE OR INJURY! ...
- Page 2 : DDITIONAL ARTS EQUIRED Speed controller (we use the Scorpion Mini Electronic Speed Control [ESC]) Radio (we use the Spektrum DX3C transmitter and a SR301 receiver) Battery (we use the Turnigy Nano‐Tech 850 mAh 4S LiPo pack) Battery plug for the primary leads plug on your selected battery (XT60 for our batteries) Foam sheet or bubble wrap to secure battery (we use bubble wrap) LiPo battery charger : OOLS EQUIRED (Torx T10 screwdriver – provided with kit) SAE Allen wrench set #2 Philips head screwdriver Wire stripper Soldering iron and solder Blue Loctite 2.1 ATTENTION: Please pay close attention to which fasteners go where. Try to keep them in their individually labeled pouches until they are ready for installation. Many of them look the same, but are slightly different in length. Use quality tools! If an Allen wrench or screwdriver fits a little loose, fastener ...
- Page 3 : SSEMBLY 3.1 S – : TEP EMPORARY ASSEMBLY Form the basic chassis by assembling the 2 sides, 2 ends, 4 motors, switch, and power LED: Attach all 4 of the plastic motor braces to the aluminum end pieces using the supplied #6 x 5/8” flat head sheet metal screws and a #2 Phillips screwdriver. Slide the motors into the motor bores, until just the black head of the motor (where the shaft comes out) is extending beyond the side of the robot. Loosely install 4 of the 10‐24 x 3/4 socket head cap screws in the lower holes on each end (e.g. floppily) to connect the ends to the sides. There is no up/down/left/right. All of the sides and ends can be used in any position (the large hollowed out areas go towards the insides). Snug (e.g., finger tight) the 4 screws so the motors are temporarily held in place. Attach the aluminum bottom plate to the chassis using 4 of the M3x6mm machine screws and the included Torx screwdriver. 2 | P a g e ...
- Page 4 3.2 S – : TEP RRANGE LECTRONICS Arrange your battery, receiver, and speed controller on the bottom plate, as you expect to place them in the finished robot. The battery is in there just to make sure sufficient room is being left for it. Make sure there is sufficient clearance between everything and the motors, allowing for spacing up of the receiver and speed control when they are attached using the included Velcro. Mark the location of your receiver and speed controller on the bottom plate. 3.3 S – : TEP TTACH LECTRONICS Attach your receiver and speed controller using the Velcro. Make good use of the Velcro by making sure that parts are mounted firmly enough (as shown). 3.4 S – : TEP ...
- Page 5 3.5 S ‐ : TEP IRING You will be soldering the wires to the motors and battery plug and connecting them to the speed controller. Remove one of the sides of the robot to allow for easy speed controller access. Solder wire pairs to the motor lugs, being careful not to overheat the motor lugs. IMPORTANT: Do NOT use silver solder. The higher temperature overheats the motor internals, causing premature motor failure. We find it easiest to tin the wire ends and motor lugs, then join them. Connect the LED to the main power input on the speed control, so that it is easy to tell when the robot is live. Solder main power positive wires to the power switch. Attach the other end to the positive terminal of an appropriate plug for your selected battery. Solder main power negative wire to the negative terminal of the battery plug. Place the switch in the 3D printed mount to keep it out of the way. Slide 2 of the motors into the chassis. IMPORTANT: The motors are wired in parallel, so it is important that place the first 2 motors on the same side. It does not however matter which port on the Speed controller they plug into (shown). Fit the four motor wires into motor output C4, positive into positive and negative into negative. Then tighten the terminals. 4 | P a g e ...
- Page 6 Slot the next two motors into their mounts and place the four wires in terminal C3 tightening the terminals when finished. Connect THR and STR to your radio transmitter of choice, as shown. Note: It will not damage the electronics if you flip them but it will reverse driving and turning controls. 3.6 S ‐ : TEP SSEMBLE THE ROBOT Carefully attach all of the plates as the end of construction draws near. Slide the other side plate back onto the chassis. Snug the bottom screws Add the upper set of 10‐24 machine screws, then tighten the upper screws. This will result in the lower screws becoming tight, as we achieve a compression fit around the motor gearbox. Hint: While evenly tightening the 10‐24 x ¾ screws, look closely at the air gap between the side plates and end plates. Tighten the screws in small increments to keep the air gaps even. Even air gaps equal a squarely assembled, strong robot. Attach the lower plate, using 8 of the supplied M3 machine screws. Use blue Loctite to keep these screws from coming loose during combat! Lightly place the clear upper plate on the chassis and gently attach it with the 4 M3 screws. Lightly attaching it is important because you will want to access the electronics a little later. If you will be fighting in an arena with a steel floor, we offer optional magnets that can be attached to the bottom of the robot to increase traction. 3.7 S ‐ : TEP ...
- Page 7 3.8 S ‐ : TEP TTACH LADE SSEMBLY Mount the titanium blade, completing the build. Attach the blade to the blade brackets, using the supplied M3 machine screws and the Torx screwdriver supplied with your D2 Combat Robot Chassis kit. The small tips of the brackets go towards the lower edge of the blade. Use blue Loctite to keep these screws from coming loose during combat! Attach the blade brackets to the blade mount, using the supplied ¼‐20 x 0.875” socket head cap screws. Leave the screws loose enough that the brackets rotate freely on the mount. Secure the ¼‐20 machine screws by using the supplied ¼‐20 nuts, so the machine screws can’t unscrew due to vibration, etc. Attach the blade mount to the D2 Combat Robot Chassis, using the supplied ¼‐20 x 0.75” socket head cap screws. You can mount the blade on the end that you want to be the “front”. Use blue Loctite to keep these screws from coming loose during combat! You will want to grind, sand or file the bottom edge of the blade: If the arena you will fight in has a very flat floor, you can lower the leading edge of the blade by grinding, sanding, or filing the lower edge carefully. If you make it too sharp, however, it can catch on seams in the floor, so be mindful of how much to sharpen the blade. ...
- Page 8 4.1 U : SE BLUE OCTITE WHERE INDICATED IN THE INSTRUCTIONS Bottom panel screws Screws that attach the wedge to the wedge brackets Screws that attach the wedge mount to the main chassis Other screws used in the kit do not seem to come loose during combat, but the above screws will come loose without using a thread locker. 4.2 S : WAP A MOTOR You do not have to fully disassemble the robot to change a motor: Remove the top cover Disconnect the leads from the speed control for the affected motor. Loosen the M3 screws on the bottom that screw into the end with the bad motor Loosen the 10‐24 screws on the end with the bad motor. Slide out the bad motor Solder the leads to a good motor, slide it back in, tighten up, attach the axle adapter and wheel, and you are ready to go! If you have spare motors with leads already attached, this makes the swap easier and faster! Have a suggestion? Contact us via http://www.botkits.com 7 | P a g e ...
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