RapidLED Red Sea Max 250 Retrofit Manual

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RapidLED Red Sea Max 250 Retrofit

Contents

Foreword . ...................................................................................................................................................... 2

Outline .......................................................................................................................................................... 2

Heatsink Preparation .................................................................................................................................. 13

Attaching LEDs to the Heatsinks ............................................................................................................. 13

Thermal Grease . .................................................................................................................................. 13

Mounting an LED to a Heatsink . .......................................................................................................... 13

Attaching the Blue LED Strings to the Heatsinks ................................................................................ 14

Attaching the White LED Strings to the Heatsinks . ............................................................................. 15

Hood Preparation . ......................................................................................................................................... 2

Remove Clear T5 Splash Guard ............................................................................................................. 2

Remove Screws Holding Two Halves of Hood Together . ...................................................................... 3

Opening the Hood . ........................................................................................................................................ 5

Removing the T5 Bulb Sockets and Large Ballasts . ....................................................................................... 8

Removing T5 Sockets and T5 Wiring . .................................................................................................... 9

Removal of Ballasts and T5 Sockets .................................................................................................... 11

Drilling the Reflector for Heatsink Mounting Holes . ................................................................................... 11

Mounting Heatsinks to Reflector ................................................................................................................ 17

Preparing the LDD Driver Board . ................................................................................................................. 21

LDD-H-4 Board Layout . ........................................................................................................................ 21

Pulldown Jumpers . .............................................................................................................................. 21

Inserting LDD-H Drivers Into the LDD-H-4 Board . ....................................................................................... 22

Installing Standoffs . ............................................................................................................................. 24

Installing the HLG Driver ............................................................................................................................. 25

Wiring the LED Drivers ................................................................................................................................ 26

Connecting HLG LED Output to LDD Input . ................................................................................................. 29

Wiring LEDs to LDD Drivers by Drilling a Hole in the Reflector . .................................................................. 30

Routing Dimming Wires .............................................................................................................................. 31

Table of Contents

Summary of Contents for RapidLED Red Sea Max 250 Retrofit

Page 1: Table Of Contents
1 RapidLED Red Sea Max 250 Retrofit Contents Foreword ............................... 2 Outline ................................ 2 Heatsink Preparation .......................... 13 Attaching LEDs to the Heatsinks ...................... 13 Thermal Grease ........................... 13 Mounting an LED to a Heatsink ...................... 13 Attaching the Blue LED Strings to the Heatsinks ................ 14 Attaching the White LED Strings to the Heatsinks ................ 15 Hood Preparation ............................ 2 Remove Clear T5 Splash Guard ...................... 2 Remove Screws Holding Two Halves of Hood Together ............... 3 Opening the Hood ............................ 5 Removing the T5 Bulb Sockets and Large Ballasts .................. 8 Removing T5 Sockets and T5 Wiring ..................... 9 Removal of Ballasts and T5 Sockets .................... 11 Drilling the Reflector for Heatsink Mounting Holes .................. 11 ...
Page 2: Foreword
2 Reassembling the Hood .......................... 36 Foreword As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The Red Sea Max 250 retrofit should be attempted by people familiar with AC power and wiring, relays, electronics, LEDs, off‐Line and DC‐DC LED Drivers, soldering LEDs, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of some contents of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with potential hazards, dangers, or pitfalls that may occur in the course of performing this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. As with all projects, before beginning please double check to ensure you have all the parts needed to complete the build and contact us immediately if anything was left out of your order. Outline Here is a general outline of assembly steps in the order that worked well for us: 1. Remove hood, remove T5 bulbs, open hood, remove the stock ballasts, T5 sockets and bulb clips. 2. Drill 4 mounting holes in RSM reflector for each heatsink. Zip tie heatsinks to RSM reflector. 3. Complete LED work: attach LEDs to heatsink and then wire them together. Your LED strings will likely jump across two heatsinks, so be aware of this when wiring. 4. Install HLG and LDD drivers. 5. Drill hole for dimming controller wiring if necessary. 6. Complete Wiring: Wire drivers to AC power, hook up dimming wires, and LED wires. 7. Test under power. ******** ENSURE THERE IS NO POWER TO THE DRIVERS UNTIL ALL WIRING IS COMPLETE ******** 8. Close hood up, re‐attach to RSM and bask in the shimmer. Hood Preparation Any and all power wires must be unplugged and disconnected before beginning. First we will ...
Page 3: Remove Screws Holding Two Halves Of Hood Together
3 Remove Screws Holding Two Halves of Hood Together Next, there are hidden screws that must be removed. Each screw is covered with a plastic plug that must be popped out. You must remove the clear T5 splash guard as it covers some screws. Popping the plugs out is most easily done with a very thinly bladed flat screwdriver; a regular flat blade screwdriver might be too thick: After removing the plugs, with a Philips screwdriver, remove all screws that were previously covered by the plugs: The plugs are indicated by the arrows in the photos below. Remove all plugs and screws revealed by their removal. There are 20 total: ...
Page 4 4 ...
Page 5: Opening The Hood
5 Opening the Hood The hood is composed of two main pieces; a top and a bottom with two additional side vent pieces. To begin disassembly, flip the hood over so the reflector is facing the ground. Since all of the screws holding the hood together have been removed, we can separate the two halves, which have a somewhat tight fit. If you experience difficulty, go back and ensure you found all of the screw plugs and removed the screws – we missed one initially and almost cracked the hood by trying to force it open. Don’t force it! Beginning with the outer edges, gently pull it apart until you separate the two pieces; when the outer edges release, the rest of the separation is much easier. Do not be rough and do not force it open, it only takes a bit of coaxing to get the two main pieces to separate. Work your way from side to side, sliding apart the halves at even distances, a bit at a time until the halves release. Once separated, remove two additional side ventilation pieces. Begin separation here ...
Page 6 6 Begin separation here By gently pushing up at the outermost edges, we were able to get separation and work our way to the center, eventually rotating the top cover of the hood away to reveal the inside of the hood. ...
Page 7 7 Top Half Rotated 90° Main separation point Main separation point ...
Page 8: Removing The T5 Bulb Sockets And Large Ballasts
8 Removing the T5 Bulb Sockets and Large Ballasts Each side of the hood reflector has 5 T5 blub sockets that are clipped in with two white plastic clips. Simply push the clip outward and downwards with a screwdriver to release each socket. You may have to clip some zip ties to release the fan wires bundled to the T5 socket wires (white wires) as we will remove the T5 sockets and leave the fans. Repeat the process for both sides / all 10 sockets. Push Clips Out and Down to Release Clips (12 total per side) Clips for T5 Sockets Removed ...
Page 9: Removing T5 Sockets And T5 Wiring
9 Side 1 Side 2 Removing T5 Sockets and T5 Wiring Next, we will remove the T5 bulb sockets and their associated wiring harnesses from the hood. To do this we must disconnect them from the ballasts. To disconnect the T5 socket harnesses from the ballasts, start by disconnecting all wires from each of the three large ballasts. The wire terminals on the ballasts are spring loaded. Simply press the terminal to unlock it and then slide the wires out. ...
Page 10 10 Push down with All wires removed screwdriver on spring Loaded terminals and slide wires out Repeat for ALL wires on ALL ballasts ...
Page 11: Removal Of Ballasts And T5 Sockets
11 Removal of Ballasts and T5 Sockets Next, unscrew the screws at both ends of each of the three large ballasts and remove the screws and ballasts from the hood. At this time you should also remove the T5 sockets and wiring harnesses from the hood. You will likely have to snip zip ties to remove them. All large ballasts and T5 wiring sockets and harnesses removed from hood (small ballasts at bottom right of photo are not removed): Drilling the Reflector for Heatsink Mounting Holes Unfortunately, we do not have any photos of the drilling process, only the completed drilling. To complete this step, simply place the heatsink on top of the reflector, hold it firmly in place, and using the holes in the heatsink as a template, drill through the reflector. We used a 9/64” drill bit. Heatsink Holes Used as Guides for Drilling Reflector ...
Page 12 12 A photo of holes already drilled on the left side is below. The heatsink was placed on top of where the holes are drilled and used as a template for drilling. The process was repeated for the right side. Zip ties will be used to secure the heatsink to the reflector. Drilling completed for right side. Ballast work should not be completed yet. ...
Page 13: Heatsink Preparation
13 Heatsink Preparation Next, we will prepare the heatsink by attaching the LEDs to it and then wiring the LEDs together. We have a video available on YouTube that has a quick overview of how to hook up our solderless LEDs. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7fwVP61kiM&feature=plcp A wiring Diagram for solderless LEDs is here: http://www.menarilighting.com/rapidled/documentation/RapidLED_Solderless_Wiring_Diagram.pdf If you are using soldered LED’s, please see the following document for an overview on how to wire them together: http://www.vinnymarini.com/pictures/rapid_docs/LED%20DIY%20Oveview.pdf Attaching LEDs to the Heatsinks Thermal Grease When attaching an LED to the heatsink, first apply thermal grease to the back of the LED. This ensures good thermal conduction of heat away from the LED into the heatsink. A small dab on the back of the LED is all that is necessary. Mounting an LED to a Heatsink The heatsink has many little holes in it. Two little holes are used to secure 1 LED to the heatsink – one at each end of each LED as shown in the photo below. Each screw should have a plastic washer on it, just above the LED and below the screw head. Ensure the LED is snug and does not move around. Do not overtighten. ...
Page 14 14 Here is a tip: when arranging the LEDs on the heatsink, lay out all of your LEDs and then rotate them or arrange them so that if you have a string that goes across two heatsinks that they will attach properly. We forgot to do this and ended up needing to use some very long wires. Attaching the LED Strings to the Heatsinsks In the below sections, we install each of the LED strings to the heatsinks. The sections are divided up by color. The blue LED strings are exactly the same on both heatsinks. The white and color strings need to ‘jump’ across heatsinks. One heatsink will have the power wires from the LED driver connected to the white/color string, the end of the string on that heatsink will ‘jump’ across to the part of the same string on the 2 heatsink and that string will have a plug at the end of the last LED. Attaching the Blue LED Strings Below, you will find how we attached the blue strings of LEDs to both heatsinks. To LED 3.5” Driver 1.5” 4.5” 6” 3.5” 3.5” 4.5” 1.5” Plug 3.5” ...
Page 15: Attaching The White Led Strings To The Heatsinks
15 Attaching the White LED Strings to the Heatsinks Next, we attached seven White LEDs to each heatsink as shown below. From 1 string 4.5” 1.5” 6” 6” Plug on one string only 3.5” 1.5” White LED Locations: White LED string 1 and 2 connected together across heatsinks: ...
Page 16 White LED String 16 power from LDD Driver Plug at end of white LED String Jumper connecting white string across heatsinks Attaching UV and Color LED String to Heatsinks Like the white LED string, the UV and color mixed string is split across the two heatinks. In the photo below, the red and green LEDs are next to each other in the middle. You can see the red LED clearly because the center of it is red. The other LEDs in the string are UV. To Color and UV LED String on From LDD Driver 3.5” Heatsink 4.5” 1.5” 4.5” 4.5” Plug at end UV/Color LED String Wired Across Heatsinks: of UV/Color LED String From LDD Driver Jumper connecting UV/Color string across heatsinks ...
Page 17: Mounting Heatsinks To Reflector
17 Mounting Heatsinks to Reflector To mount each heatsink to the reflector (your heatsink should have LEDs on it at this point), place each into the reflector as in the photo below. 4 holes in the heatsink should line up with the 4 holes in the reflector you drilled. Next, we are going to insert a zip tie into one corner hole of the heatsink. It should go through the LED face of the heatsink and through the mounting hole in the reflector that is co‐axial with it. Pull it all the way through. Zip tie should go through heatsink and through reflector hole drilled earlier. Next, on the underside of the hood, slide a second zip tie over the first, tightening it such that it will secure the 1 zip tie, heatsink, and reflector together. Zip tie 1, from heatsink side Slide 2 zip tie over 1 and tighten ...
Page 18 18 Next, attach, only a few clicks, a 3 zip tie to the 2 . Insert the 3 zip tie through the reflector and through the mounting hole in the heatsink. zip tie should be attached to 2 only a few clicks! zip tie After attaching 3 zip tie to 2 , slide through reflector hole and up through heatsink hole zip tie Lastly, slide a 4 zip tie over the 3 , which should be sticking through the second mounting hole as shown above. Tighten it down. Trim excess from zip ties. Repeat process to mount both heatsinks to reflector. ...
Page 19 19 Slide 4 zip tie over 3 and tighten. Trim off excess. Repeat three more times to fasten both heatsinks to reflector. One Side Mounted and Trimmed. Repeat 3 more times to attach both heatsinks to reflector. ...
Page 20 20 Your completed zip tie wiring will look similar to this ...
Page 21: Preparing The Ldd Driver Board
21 Preparing the LDD Driver Board We need to do three things to prepare the LDD driver board. The first is to short the pulldown jumpers if we are using a lighting controller (Storm, Arduino), or keep them open if we are not using a lighting controller. Second, insert the LDD drivers into the LDD driver board. Third, install adhesive standoffs. LDD‐H‐4 Board Layout Pulldown Jumpers (open) Vin‐ (DC) Vin+ (DC) PWM Inputs from HLG from HLG (from controller) LDD Driver Sockets LED Outputs Pulldown Jumpers If you are using a lighting controller, short the pulldown jumpers as shown below: ...
Page 22: Inserting Ldd-H Drivers Into The Ldd-H-4 Board
22 If you are not using a lighting controller, keep the jumpers open (connected to only one pin) as shown below: Inserting LDD‐H Drivers Into the LDD‐H‐4 Board Orient your LDD‐H driver with a driver socket so Vin on the driver and Vin in the socket are on the same side. The same goes for Vout. The text will be oriented the same direction on both if the driver is rotated properly. If the driver is upside down, text in the middle of the driver socket and the text on the LDD will be upside down in relation to each other. Be careful to install the driver in the correct orientation such that “Vin” and “Vout” on the driver are aligned with the Vin and Vout of the driver socket. NOTE: If the driver is installed upside down, you WILL damage the driver. ...
Page 23 23 Align the pins on the driver with the driver sockets and press the driver down firmly until it is fully seated in the socket. It’s best to do this with your thumb in the middle of the driver. Make sure that the pins are aligned before pressing down so that the pins don’t get bent. This is what the driver will look like on the board before and after installation: ...
Page 24: Installing Standoffs
24 The final result will be that the driver will sit flush with the driver socket. Repeat this process with all remaining drivers that you want to use. In this case, all 4 channels on the board are being used, but the board can be used without all driver sockets being filled: The LDD‐H‐4 board is designed to hold the LDD drivers firmly and the drivers are not meant to be removed once they are installed. We do not recommend removing the LDD drivers from the LDD‐H‐4 board. Removal can result in damage to the driver and board. If damage occurs, do not use. If you need to remove a driver from the LDD‐H‐4, ensure no power is applied to it, remove all wiring and place it on a clean workspace. Starting with the leftmost or rightmost LDD, grasp it firmly on the sides and pull straight out to avoid bending the pins. A flat head screw driver can also be used by putting the blade in between an LDD driver and its driver socket and gently prying up the driver, working your way back and forth between sides to “rock” the driver out. Installing Standoffs There are 4 holes on the LDD‐H‐4 board that can be used to mount the board to another surface. You will either receive 4 plastic standoffs with your board. NOTE: DO NOT let the board come in contact with a metal surface while the board is plugged in. This can damage the board and/or the drivers. To use the standoffs, poke them through the back of the board in each of the 4 holes. Then, peel off the paper to expose the adhesive tape and stick to your mounting surface. Make sure that the mounting ...
Page 25: Installing The Hlg Driver
25 surface is clean to ensure proper adhesion. We are NOT peeling off the paper to expose the adhesive tape yet! Installing the HLG Driver We mounted the HLG driver into the hood by repositioning one of the original LED moonlight drivers as shown in the picture below and using one of the existing screw mounts from one of the removed T5 drivers: Reposition LED Moonlight Driver Screw Here (use screw from removed T5 ballast) ...
Page 26: Wiring The Led Drivers
26 Screw Mount AC input connects to relay in next step Wiring the LED Drivers The LED drivers in this project are an HLG driver and 4 LDD drivers. The HLG driver powers the LDD drivers so that each of the 4 channels is individually dimmable. As an overview, our wiring will work like this: 1. HLG driver AC input is connected to an internal AC relay for power 2. HLG LED driver LED output is connected to LDD driver board power input 3. The LDD driver board has 4 outputs. Each output is connected to 1 LED string (4 channels) BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH AC POWER. Ensure nothing is plugged in before proceeding! The RSM hood has a timer in it that controls various relays for AC power. To preserve functionality of the timer and fit all LED supply components in the hood, we will first wire up our HLG driver to the 1 relay in the hood for AC power. The 1 relay has a brown and blue wire coming off of it. They are known as ACL and ACN wires. Follow them through the bundle and connect to the HLG AC inputs. ...
Page 27 27 Relay relay ACN wire connects to HLG ACN Input Connect to HLG Ground 1st Relay ACL wire connects to HLG ACL Input Use wire nuts to wire the corresponding color coded wires (ACL, ACN, and Ground) to the HLG driver as shown in the photo below. HLG Driver AC Input (driver is off photo to the right) ...
Page 28 28 Next, trim and cap the remaining ACL and ACN wires with wire nuts from the other relays. ACL and ACN wires from 2 and 3 relays. Trim and cap with wire nuts. and 3 (unused) relays ...
Page 29: Connecting Hlg Led Output To Ldd Input
29 ACL and ACN wires from 2 and 3 relays trimmed and capped If you do not cap the ACL and ACN wires from the 2 and 3 relays, they will likely short out and you will most certainly have a dangerous and potentially lethal situation on your hands. Never plug the completed project into anything other than a GFCI outlet and have an electrician inspect this step and all other AC wiring before proceeding as there may be various versions of this product that are wired differently from what is shown in this document. Connecting HLG LED Output to LDD Input The LDD‐H‐4 is powered by the HLG driver. Simply attach some jumper wires with wire nuts from the V+ and V‐ outputs of the HLG driver and insert them into the corresponding V+ and V‐ inputs of the LDD‐H‐ 4 driver board. Do not hook them up backwards. You will destroy the LDD drivers if you do. V‐ From HLG to V‐ Input on LDD‐H‐4 V+ From HLG to V+ Input on LDD‐ H‐4 ...
Page 30: Wiring Leds To Ldd Drivers By Drilling A Hole In The Reflector
30 Wiring LEDs to LDD Drivers by Drilling a Hole in the Reflector At this point, your heatsinks and LEDs should be fully mounted into your reflector. You should have 4 LED jumper wires coming from your LED strings. We need to drill a hole in the center of the reflector to route the LED strings to the LDD driver board. We used a ¼” drill bit for this hole. Hole for LED String Power Wiring ...
Page 31: Routing Dimming Wires
31 Jumper wires from LED strings securely inserted into corresponding LED outputs on LDD Board. Routing Dimming Wires If you have a lighting controller that requires external wiring, such as a Storm, you will need to route some wire through your hood near the timer by drilling a hole for the dimming wires. Here is how we did it. Step 1: Drill a hole near the original power cord. This will lead into the compartment under the timer. ...
Page 32 32 Step 2: Route your dimming wires through the hole. They are blue and white here, but we used red in the current project. Gap for Dimming Wires Step 3: Unscrew the timer (yours will look different) and lift it up (make sure no connections come loose, if they do re‐attach them). Pull the dimming wires through and re‐attach the timer. There is a gap where the dimmer wires can exit the timer compartment. ...
Page 33 33 Step 4: Attach dimming wires to LDD‐H‐4 Driver Board ...
Page 34 34 Ground from Storm Step 5: If you have a Storm, you will need to route ground from the Storm to the LDD‐H‐4 board in addition to the dimming wires (common ground) At this point, dimming wires should be routed and connected to the LDD‐H‐4 board, if you have any, your HLG should be connected to AC power via a relay, your LED strings should be routed to the LDD‐H‐4 and the HLG V+ and V‐ output should be connected to the LDD‐H‐4 input. The LDD‐H‐4 board should also be affixed with the included sticky feet to the hood as shown in the location below. Picture of assembly in progress: ...
Page 35 35 Dimming Wires Entering from Dimming Wires Exiting Timer bottom of Timer Compartment via Compartment (to LDD‐H‐4) Drilled Hole LED String Jumper Wires to LDD‐H‐4 LDD‐H‐4 Power to LDD‐H‐4 ...
Page 36 36 Reassembling the Hood At this point, we flipped the hood over, and tested everything to ensure it was working properly. Next, we screwed it all together, and that’s it! ...
Page 37 37 ...