Table of Contents
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Periodic Surf Co
SURFBOARD ASSEMBLY
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
The following instruction manual is a general
assembly guide. Please refer to our website and
youtube channel for specific video instructions.
- Mini Mal
- The Egg
- Long Board
- Classic Fish
Any questions or queries? Send Jordan a message at
diysurfboardkits@iinet.net.au
Website: www.diysurfboardkits.com
Youtube: www.youtube.com/user/JordsWoodShop
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Table of Contents
Summary of Contents for Periodic Surf Mini Mal
- Page 1 INSTRUCTION MANUAL The following instruction manual is a general assembly guide. Please refer to our website and youtube channel for specific video instructions. - Mini Mal - The Egg - Long Board - Classic Fish Any questions or queries? Send Jordan a message at diysurfboardkits@iinet.net.au...
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Page 2: Need To Know
need to know (frame kit terminology) Terminology *see below diagram for parts breakdown* Spines - There are two kinds of spines, the centre spine and side spines. These are labelled C for centre, and S for sides. Ribs - These index into the spine pieces. They are numbered from 1 upwards, with 1 starting at the tail. -
Page 3: Materials Required
need to know (materials and tools required) Materials Required *see below images for specific materials breakdown* - Polyurethane Glue - Masking Tape - Nitro Glycerine Gloves - Water Spray Bottle - Super Glue and Activator we are using Titebond we are using Black Shield we are using Scotch Masking we are using ZAP Super Polyurethane Liquid Glue... -
Page 4: Pre-Assembly
Pre-Assembly Step 1: glue and reinforce the spines There are three separate spines in our kits - the centre spine and the two side spines. They are labelled C for centre and S for sides. The spine support material is needed also, they are labelled corresponding to the joints they will be reinforcing. - Page 5 Pre-Assembly Step 2: glue and assemble the rails There are two sets of rails - these define the outline of the board. They are labelled R for rail. The rails do not require any support material and can be installed on either side of the board. These are the parts needed: 2x Rails You will also need glue and masking tape.
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Page 6: Step 3: Kit Assembly
Clamps may be required. The Egg: 8 ribs The Fish: 8 ribs Mini Mal: 10 ribs Long Board: 11 ribs Starting with a rib near the middle of the board, apply glue to the slots and faces of the rib. - Page 7 Assembly Step 4: more kit assembly There are two ways you can clamp your ribs to your spines, if it's needed. You will now need your glued up rails. After allowing your ribs to dry. Take your rails and test fit them on your frame kit without glue.
- Page 8 The Skins Step 5: deck blank glue up This step is assuming you are using our Paulownia skins which have been machined to the perfect size already. If you are using your own wood, you will need to have it machined to 6mm thick and to the length and width to suit your board.
- Page 9 The Skins Step 6: template, trim, cut deck Cut out the supplied paper template. Using template as reference lay your frame on top of the template. Looking at the tail, take the rails and bend them over to the centre spine (to follow the outline on the template.
- Page 10 Deck Lamination Step 7: bottom deck lamination Optionally, use a rocker table to assist in laminating your deck skins to form more rocker line. Refer to the build page on the DIY Surfboard Kits website. Note: We recommend doing a dry assembly of your bottom deck to iron out your exact clamping and gluing method.
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Page 11: Hardware Support
Hardware support Step 8: support materials Note: Support material is from the trimmings left over when you rough cut your decks. This step can be done while waiting for the bottom deck glue to fully dry. Using your paper template, mark the positions of the fin box and vent plug on the frame. The Fin Box: Using the left over trimmings, cut them to an appropriate length. - Page 12 Deck Lamination Step 9: trim bottom, top deck lamination Using a router or an equivalent tool, trim the excess material from the bottom deck. Trim Note: We recommend using a combination of spring clamps for the edges and bricks or weights for the middle.
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Page 13: Rail Installation
Rail Installation Step 10: rail bent lamination (Test Bend) Note: We are using a process called 'bent lamination'. This consists of bending strips of wood around the side of the board, and adding strips until you reach the desired thickness. We first need to work out how wide our planks should be. - Page 14 Rail Installation Step 11: rail installation Note: Upon removing the straps and clamps you will see that the rail material has formed a slight memory of the surfboard shape. This makes it easier to bend back into place when gluing. It's also important to have good glue coverage when laminating rails onto the board. Repeating the same method as before, but this time using glue.
- Page 15 Rail Shaping Step 12: tidy up and shaping Remove all clamps and straps, lay the board on a flat surface. Using a flush cut saw or an equivalent, trim the excess rail material flush with the deck. Use a block plane to continue to bring the rails flush and smooth. Trim Note: The technique used here is to keep the heel of the block plane is on the deck skin while the blade is angled at a 45°...
- Page 16 Tail Block Step 13: cutting the tail block (Optional Step) Note: The tail block is a solid block of wood (supplied by you). we suggest using something really special to make a statement! Laying the board on a flat surface, mark where you want the tail block to be. Using a jig saw or an equivalent, cut the tail off being mindful to keep it as straight as possible.
- Page 17 Tail Block Step 14: gluing the tail block Apply a generous amount of glue to the new tail block and board. Clamp or strap in place. Set aside to dry. Glue Glue Strap Trim the tail block to be flush with the board using a block plane. Trace the shape of the tail on the new block - this can be done with the paper template or free hand.
- Page 18 Shaping Step 15: shaping the board the top of the board Note: Boards will come with a rail guide template. This is to ensure the board remains symmetrical. These are just a guide and it is up to you the shaper to create the rail shape you like.
- Page 19 See what works best for them and you. Part 5 of the Mini Mal build videos has a section on the fibreglassing process. Please refer to this if you are needing more information or want to watch the video.
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Page 20: Hardware Install
Hardware Install Step 17: vent plug and leash plug Note: As previously mentioned, this step can be done before the fibreglassing. The hardware would just need to be masked for the fibreglassing process. Once the fibreglass is fully dry on the top and bottom, set the board (top up) on a flat surface. - Page 21 Hardware Install Step 18: fin box Note: The below shows the process for installing a 10.5" finbox, for thrusters refer to our website. Mark the area to route out for the fin box or use use your paper template as a guide. Using a router, route out the hole for the fin box being VERY careful to not go too deep.
- Page 22 Finishing Step 19: top coat and wet sanding Once your fin and deck hardware is installed, you would apply your hot coat of resin (if installing hardware after fibre glassing). This is beyond the scope of this instruction manual, but please refer to our website for more information.
- Page 23 Finishing Step 20: buffing and final touches Using high quality polishing compound bring your board upto the desired finish, we like to leave ours just slightly matte as it makes it easier to see the grain. Polish the board with a car polisher or by hand using either fibreglass or automotive cutting compound.