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Portabee Portable 3D Printer Assembly Instructions Manual

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V1.1 (17 Aug 2013)

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Summary of Contents for Portabee Portable 3D Printer

  • Page 1 V1.1 (17 Aug 2013)
  • Page 2 KP – 3D printing ninja guru DanielW – dude from Australia Special Mention: The design of the Portabee has been made possible by ideas, concepts, designs and good work by: Brook Drumm (Printrbot) Whosa whatsis (RepRap Wallace) Jean-Marc Giacalone (Emaker Huxley)
  • Page 3 V0.9 (14 Jun 2012) - Draft document. Not finalised and may contain errors. V1.0 (10 Jul 2012) - Initial release. V1.1 (17 Aug 2013) - Manual Upgrade to accomodate feedback over the initial lifetime of Portabee...
  • Page 4 Note: Part drawings not shown to scale. 2x base 2x x-rod-clamp 1x x-end-motor 1x x-carriage 1x x-end-idler 1x extruder-plate 1x y-bearing-holder 1x extruder-spacer 1x y-bearing-idler 1x electronics-holder 1x y-block 1x y-endstop-holder 2x y-end 1x z-endstop-holder 2x z-shaft-coupling 2x lock-clip 2x z-bearing-holder...
  • Page 5 Extrduer parts and BOM is treated separately, you can get the instruction set from: http://portabee3dprinter.com/portabee-documentation/ Here are the extruder printed parts for initial reference, 1x 9 tooth drive gear 1x 53 tooth driven gear 1x extruder block 1x idler block...
  • Page 6 650mm belt For Y axis. Belt teeth profile to match pulley (2GT) Electronics + Endstops + associated Portabee kits shipped with Gen6.d and set of 3 PCB- 1 set connecting cables + compatible mounted mechanical endstops. Power supply: 12V 10A...
  • Page 7 Note: Extruder parts are not included in this BOM. Quantity Description Remarks Provided with the Portabee kit. If a non-heated platform is desired, refer to 'printbed-simple.png' dimension drawing: Printbed (heated platform) https://github.com/romscraj/Portabee For covering the printbed print surface. 50mm width recommended (and provided with Portabee kits).
  • Page 9 M8 rods Note on identifying motors in the kit: There are a total of 5 motors in the Portabee complete kit – X motor, Y motor, two Z motors (left and right), and one Extruder motor. Set aside two Z motors, you should select one with a short cable length, and one with a long cable, so as to reach the electronics (mounted on one side of the base).
  • Page 10 Insert the following into one of the 350mm M6 threaded rods: M6 nut – 6mm ID x 8mm OD x 10mm LG PTFE tubing – M6 nut Position them to approximately the middle of the rod. Do not tighten the nuts.
  • Page 11 Insert a washer followed by a nut into the open end of each threaded rod against the base part. Tighten the nuts only by hand against the base for now (do not use tools). Tighten these nuts by hand only (without the use of tools) Note: Actual nuts are not red in colour, and are highlighted so for illustrative purposes.
  • Page 12 Insert one 290mm Ø 8mm smooth rod (the z smooth rod) into one of the base parts. You may find it easier to do this by placing the parts on a table, and pressing the rod down into the hole with a twisting motion. You may want to protect the tabletop surface from damage by doing this on a hard, flat material eg.
  • Page 13 Repeat the previous step on the other base part. Refer to the pictures below and verify that your build is correct.
  • Page 14 Perform an initial levelling of the base. Find a suitable perfectly flat, stiff object of at least 25cm x 7cm in size. Examples would be a plastic chopping board or a large smooth tile. Place the flat object on a table and use the spirit level to check if the surface is absolutely level.
  • Page 15 Place the spirit level vertically onto one of the z smooth rods as shown in the picture with the green tick. Check that the rod is perfectly perpendicular to the table surface, if not, file down only one of the two tabs on the underside of the base part in small amounts until this is so. Repeat with the other z smooth rod on the other base part.
  • Page 17 Insert three LM6UU bearings into the bearing channels on the x-carriage. You may find it easier to do this by placing the bearing on end ('standing up') on a table, and pressing the x-carriage down onto the bearing. Take care not to injure your fingers underneath the part when pressing down. If the bearings feel loose when inserted, wrap a few rounds of tape (masking tape or kapton tape) around the body of the bearing to improve the fit.
  • Page 18 Insert the two 250mm 6mm smooth rods (one at a time) into one of the x- rods-clamp part. Note carefully the orientation of the part in the pictures below. You may find it easier to do this by placing the x-rods-clamp part on a table, and pushing the rods down into the holes with a twisting motion.
  • Page 19 Carefully insert the x-carriage into the open end of the two smooth rods from the previous step, sliding the LM6UU bearings onto the rods. Note carefully the orientation of the parts in the pictures below. Slide the carriage along the rods and check that it can do so smoothly. If this is not the case, lightly file (using a round / rat-tail file) the inside surface of the long bearing holder on the x-carriage, especially near the ends.
  • Page 21 Verify your build so far by referring to the pictures below. Especially note the orientation of the holes on both x-rods-clamp parts. Run an M6 threaded rod through the z leadscrew channel on both the x- end-motor and x-end idler as shown in the pictures below. The rod must be able to slide in and out smoothly without any resistance.
  • Page 22 Insert an M6 nut each into the nut slot on the x-end-motor and x-end-idler. The nut should fit snugly – you may need to file the inside corners and/or faces if it is too tight to fit in. Ensure that the hole in the M6 nut aligns with the z leadscrew channel on each part.
  • Page 23 Insert an M3 nut each into both endstop nut traps on the x-end-motor part. Insert an M3 nylon washer into each of both M3x10 bolts from the previous step, and fasten an endstop onto the x-end-motor part. Note Your endstop switches may be 'mirrored' Please rotate so the switch points correctly...
  • Page 24 Insert two LM8UU bearings into one z-bearing-holder part. If the bearings feel loose when inserted, wrap a few rounds of tape (masking tape or sticky tape) around the body of the bearing to improve the fit. If too tight, lightly file the insides of the bearing holders.
  • Page 26 Insert the following into an M4x35 bolt: M4 washer – M4 nylon large washer – M4 washer – 624 bearing – M4 washer – M4 nylon large washer – M4 washer Insert an M4 nut into the each of the two nut traps on the remaining z- bearing-holder.
  • Page 28 Verify your build so far by referring to the pictures below. Place the assembled base from Part 1 on a flat surface. It is important that the surface is flat. Most tabletops are suitable, except for certain raw wood tops that have an undulating/bumpy surface (unless if it had been factory sanded flat).
  • Page 29 Carefully insert the x axis assembly into the z smooth rods though the LM8UU bearings. Slide both base parts along the base M6 threaded rods such that the z smooth rods align with the position of the LM8UU bearings and allow the x axis assembly to slide up and down the rods smoothly. Once this is done, tighten the M6 nuts on the base by hand.
  • Page 31 Insert the two lock-clips into the channels on the y-block part. File the inside edges of the y-block part if it is too tight to fit. Insert an M3 nut into the nut trap on the side of the y-block part. Add a washer onto an M3x40 bolt and insert it into the y-block part, through the lock-clip and fasten it onto the M3 nut.
  • Page 32 Insert two LM6UU bearings each into the y-bearing-holder and y-bearing- idler parts. If the bearings feel loose when inserted, wrap a few rounds of tape (masking tape or sticky tape) around the body of the bearing to improve the fit. 'X-ray' view Insert the two 235mm 6mm smooth rods (the y smooth rods) into one y- end part.
  • Page 33 Slide the y-bearing-holder and y-bearing-idler into the y smooth rods from the previous step. Important – note the orientation of the parts below. The parts you have inserted should be able to slide smoothly along the rods. If this is not the case, remove the bearings and lightly file the insides of the bearing holders (especially near the ends).
  • Page 34 Insert the following into an M4x35 bolt: M4 washer – M4 nylon large washer – M4 washer – 624 bearing – M4 washer - M4 nylon large washer Slide the y-block into the opening of the y-bearing idler – align the big centre (4mm) hole on both parts.
  • Page 35 Insert a pulley onto the shaft of the y axis motor – leave a gap of approximately 5mm from the bottom of the pulley and the motor body. Insert an M3x5 grub screw into the pulley rim and temporarily tighten it onto the motor shaft.
  • Page 36 Thread in an M3 nut onto each of two M3x16 bolts, all the way in. Insert an M3 nylon washer into each bolts from the previous step. Insert the bolts through the holes on the y-bearing-idler, all the way through the y-block.
  • Page 37 Add an M3 nylon washer to the open end of each of the bolts you have inserted in the previous step. Affix the bolts onto the y-axis motor – you may find it easier to do this by placing the y-axis motor on a table and screwing the bolt down onto it.
  • Page 38 Verify that the holes on the y-end parts (highlighted in red in the first picture below) are 212mm apart from each other. Insert an M3 nut into each of the two nut traps on one y-end. Add an M3 washer each onto two M3x30 bolts and insert them into the holes on the y-end part (into the opposite end of the nut trap) and tighten them.
  • Page 39 Slide the y smooth rods from end to end and confirm that they are able to do so smoothly. If this is not the case, loosen (do not remove) the two M3x16 bolts on the y-bearing-holder and y-bearing-idler, slide the rods from end to end a few times and re-tighten them again.
  • Page 40 Align this edge with threaded rod Ensure highlighted nuts are aligned to this edge. If not, move the nut which is away from the edge towards the edge. Slide the two PTFE tubing parts to the nuts that you have repositioned from the previous step.
  • Page 41 Place the y-axis assembly (from Step 3.14) onto the base threaded rods – position the y-block such that the lock clips align with the PTFE tubings. The lock-clips will need to be rotated upwards in order for the y- block to sit onto its proper position on the base threaded rods. Important –...
  • Page 42 Threaded rod must be in contact with both inside surfaces as highlighted, on all four corners of the y-block part Remove the y-axis assembly from the base. Position the y-endstop-holder to be 14mm apart from the left-most M6 nut on the front base threaded rod, and slide it onto the threaded rod. Insert a nylon washer each onto an M3x16 bolt and an M3x10 bolt.
  • Page 43 M3 nylon washers Note Your endstop switches may be 'mirrored' Please rotate so the switch points correctly (End of Part 3)
  • Page 45 Thread in two M6 nuts into a 210mm M6 threaded rod. Position the outermost nut to be flush with the end of the threaded rod. Tighten the two nuts against each other tightly (using proper tools). Repeat with the other 210mm M6 threaded rod.
  • Page 46 Insert an M3 nut into the rectangular slot on the underside of the z-shaft- coupling. The fit should be fairly tight. If it is too tight, you may need to widen the slot slightly. Make sure that the centre of the nut is aligned with the channel in the pulley that goes to the centre hole.
  • Page 47 There are two z motors, one for the left and the other for the right side of the printer. One Z motor may contain a M3 screw, if this is so, use this one for the left. If your kit does not contain the M3 screw, select based on cable length.
  • Page 48 Fasten motor with three M3x10 bolts with an M3 washer on each bolt Repeat the previous step with the right z motor – use M3x10 bolts, with an M3 washer on each bolt, to fasten the motor onto the right base part. It is recommended to fasten the motor in such a way that the cable exit is facing inwards.
  • Page 49 Insert a nylon washer each onto an M3x16 bolt and an M3x10 bolt. Affix a PCB-mounted endstop onto the z-endstop-holder using these bolts – add an M3 nut to the open end of the M3x16 bolt (into the nut trap on the z- endstop-holder), and an M3 washer followed by a nut to the open end of the M3x10 bolt.
  • Page 50 Take the x-axis assembly (that you have assembled in Part 2) and insert it into the top of the z smooth rods – the x-end-motor is to be on the left. Guide the z leadscrews into the channels on the x-end and x-idler parts, and thread them into the M6 nuts.
  • Page 52 At this point, assemble the extruder and hot end before proceeding. The assembly instructions can be found titled “Portabee Extruder Assembly Instructions”, which can be downloaded from here: http://portabee3dprinter.com/portabee-documentation/ Assemble Extruder Proceed Add an M3 washer into an M3x16 bolt. Insert the bolt into the hole in the x- carriage as pictured below and add an M3 nut into the nut trap on the other side.
  • Page 53 Add an M3 washer into another M3x16 bolt. Insert the bolt into the hole in the x-carriage and through the extruder-plate part as pictured below. and add an M3 nut into the nut trap on the extruder-plate. Fasten the parts together but do not fully tighten yet.
  • Page 54 Add an M3 washer into another M3x16 bolt. Insert the bolt into the hole in the x-carriage and through the extruder-plate part as pictured below. and add an M3 nut into the nut trap on the extruder-plate. Fasten the parts together but do not fully tighten yet.
  • Page 55 Place the extruder-spacer onto the front top edge of the extruder-plate. Note the raised edge on the bottom side of the extruder-spacer. Bottom Note raised edge on bottom side Mount the extruder on the extruder-plate using two M4x25 bolts with an M4 washer on each bolt.
  • Page 56 Insert a pulley onto the shaft of the x axis motor – leave a gap of approximately 5mm from the bottom of the pulley and the motor body. Insert an M3x5 grub screw into the pulley rim and tighten it onto the motor shaft. If your x motor came with a pulley attached, skip this step Fasten the motor onto the x-end-motor using 3 M3x10 bolts.
  • Page 57 Take the 650mm belt and make a small loop on one end, with the teeth on the inside of the loop. Use a zip tie to hold the loop in place but do not tighten it fully yet. Refer to the picture below. Insert the looped end of the belt all the way in onto the bolt on the rear of the x-carriage from Step 5.2.
  • Page 58 Run the open end of the belt around the pulley on the x motor, around the idler bearing on the x-end-idler part and back to the x-carriage. Slide the into the belt clamp on the x-carriage. Insert an M3x10 bolt with an M3 washer into the belt clamp and and a nut into the nut trap on the other side.
  • Page 59 Run the open length of the belt around the pulley on the y motor and the idler bearing, and slide the belt into the belt clamp on the other y-end part. Note: you may need to adjust the position of the pulley on the y motor such that it is at the same level as the idler bearing –...
  • Page 60 Check that your belt tension is correct by turning the pulley on the x motor and y motor – the x carriage and the y-ends respectively should move immediately, but should not feel tight. (End of Part 5)
  • Page 62 Prepare the printbed to be mounted onto the printer by referring to the steps below: There are two 50cm long red PTFE wires included in the kit – these are the wires for the printbed heater connector. Strip approximately 8mm off one end of both wires. Identify the top side as well as the front edge of the printbed.
  • Page 63 Strip approximately 8mm off the wire ends of the printbed thermistor cable – this is the cable with a connector attached to two 50cm long black PTFE wires. Cut the provided heat shrink tubing into two equal lengths and insert each into the two wires of the printbed thermistor cable.
  • Page 64 Cut approximately 45cm of the provided spiral cable coil. Wrap it around the wires of the printbed heater and printbed thermistor cables. Use two zipties to attach the wrapped wires to the left underside edge of the printbed as shown in the photo below. zipties Thread an M3 nut into each M3x30 bolt on the two y-end parts.
  • Page 65 Place the printbed onto the four M3x30 bolts. Note the orientation – the right side of the printbed corresponds to the side of the y assembly where the idler bearing is. Note the holes used to mount the printbed in the pictures below. REAR REAR 'X-ray' view showing...
  • Page 66 Insert an M3 nylon washer into each of two M3x16 bolts. Insert the bolts through the two standoff holes on the left on the electronics board as shown in the picture below. Insert an M3 nut into each of the two nut traps on the underside of the electronics-holder part.
  • Page 67 Mount the y assembly onto the base. Be sure to refer to Part 3, Step 3.17 and ensure the y assembly has been seated properly before locking down. Refer to the pictures below to verify your build so far. REAR LEFT RIGHT FRONT...
  • Page 69 This section will cover electronics setup based on the Gen6.d integrated electronics board. The board layout is shown below: Gen6.d Electronics Layout Diagram...

  • Page 70: Motor Cable Connection

    MOTOR CABLE CONNECTION Connect the motor cables to the Gen6.d electronics board (refer to Step 7.1 for the motor cable connection points on the Gen6.d). Refer to the following diagrams for recommended wire routing: X motor cable (viewed from rear of printer)
  • Page 71 Y motor cable Y motor cable Ensure that the cable is above the base threaded rod (viewed from rear of printer) Printbed removed for visual clarity...
  • Page 72 There are two connectors on electronics for Z-axis, wire up both cables in any order. Z motor cables (left & right) ENDSTOP CABLE CONNECTION Connect the three endstop cables to each endstop, and to their respective connections on the Gen6.d electronics board (refer back to Step 7.1 for the endstop connection points on the Gen6.d).
  • Page 73 Y endstop cable Z endstop cable (viewed from rear of printer)
  • Page 74 HOTEND/EXTRUDER CABLE CONNECTION Connect the black hot end extension cable to the extruder hot end. Route the extruder motor cable, hot end cable and extruder fan cable to the electronics board. Extruder motor, hot end and extruder fan cables Extruder motor, hot end and extruder fan cables (viewed from rear of printer)
  • Page 75 Manually slide the x and y axes all the way in each direction, check for nice movement, and check that no wires interfere with movement. Slide the x-carriage and printbed to approximately the centre of the printer. Move the z axis to approximately the halfway point.
  • Page 76 Once connected, pronterface will show “Printer is online.” on the status bar. In the “XY: mm/min” box, enter a value of 1500. In the “Z: mm/min box, enter a value of 120. Click once on the “+x 10” button. Verify that the x axis moves to the right. Click once on the “-x 10”...
  • Page 77 Gently depress and hold down the x endstop switch. Verify that the LED on the endstop PCB lights up. While keeping the switch depressed, click once on the “-x 10” button. Verify that the x axis does not move. Release the endstop switch and click on “home x”...
  • Page 78 Gently depress and hold down the y endstop switch. Verify that the LED on the endstop PCB lights up. While keeping the switch depressed, click once on the “-y 10” button. Verify that the y axis does not move. Release the endstop switch and click on “home y”...
  • Page 79 Important: Ensure that the Z endstop is positioned higher than the printbed before proceeding. Also ensure that the Z endstop is positioned such that the switch is triggered when the x-end-motor part moves downwards and reaches the endstop. Gently depress and hold down the z endstop switch. Verify that the LED on the endstop PCB lights up.
  • Page 81 Find a suitable perfectly flat, stiff object of at least 25cm x 7cm in size. Examples would be a plastic chopping board, an MDF board or a large smooth tile. Place the flat object on a table and use the spirit level to check if the surface is absolutely level.
  • Page 82 Place a spirit level on top of the bed and adjust the nuts that hold the printbed on each M3x30 bolt until the spirit level shows that the bed is level. You will need to place the spirit level near all four edges of the printbed (one edge at a time), adjusting the nuts in small amounts until the bed is level.
  • Page 83 Turn both z leadscrews simultaneously to lower the nozzle until it almost touches the printbed. Slowly slide the x carriage to the left and right and observe the height of the nozzle with respect to the printbed surface. Take care not to scratch the printbed surface with the nozzle. Turn each z leadscrew until the nozzle height is equal along the entire x-carriage travel from end to end.
  • Page 84 – this is highly recommended (we would think crucial) to prevent the individual wires from interfering with printing. Your Portabee 3D printer assembly is now complete! Enjoy a fine cup of (instant) coffee on us.
  • Page 85 Thankyou from Portabee Team! (End of Instructions)