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Summary of Contents for Stewart MacDonald 5342
- Page 1 Violin Kit #5342 Assembly Instructions www.stewmac.com...
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Page 3: Table Of Contents
Violin Kit Instructions Welcome to the world of violin building! The violin you’re important for you to “dry run” the fitting, gluing, clamping about to build has a quality spruce top with curly maple sides and finishing operations before trying them for real. and back. -
Page 4: Kit Parts List
Kit parts list Please make sure you have all these parts before assembling your kit. It’s important to completely rehearse all fitting and clamping operations before applying glue or finishing materials. 1 Spruce bass bar 2 Carved maple neck, tuning pegs, fingerboard and nut 3 Carved spruce top with pre-cut F-holes 4 Carved maple back and side assembly 5 Strings... -
Page 5: Install The Purflings
Install the purflings The top and back are routed for body purflings, but you will need to complete the “points” of the channels, connect the channels at the neck end, and clean out any burrs left dur- ing manufacture. Use an X-acto knife and small micro-chisel to cut the points, clean up the corners, shape the channel and clean the bottom (top photo). -
Page 6: Recommended Tools And Supplies
For the tight curves, create your own bending iron using a (Traditional violin makers use heated Hide Glue, but it’s dif- piece of copper plumbing pipe and a propane torch (above ficult to use because it cools and sets very quickly. For these photo). -
Page 7: Attach The Top
Here’s a neat trick used by many builders. Clamp the bass bar Once you feel sure of your alignment, clamp the bass bar in in place above the curved top, then roll a flat washer along place without gluing it. With a pencil, lightly mark its location the top with a pencil point drawing the line of the curve onto on the top. -
Page 8: Prepare The Neck
Clamp the top in place and drill a small hole (approx. 1/8"/3.175mm) through the top into the neck block (photo above). Drill a second hole through the top into the tail block. At the butt end, drill the hole within the area where the saddle will be notched into the top later (see "Install the tailgut saddle"). - Page 9 ���� ��� �������� ����� ������� ����� ������� ������ �������� ���� ���� ���...
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Page 11: Fit The Neck
The fingerboard edges are already good straight lines, so ��������� ��� ����� ����� shape the neck to match these edges where the two meet. However, the fingerboard may need to be shaped to fit the neck if it is wider and its edges overhang. Smooth the neck/fingerboard so their edges are flush. - Page 12 the neck-set stick (which must remain on center). A wedge the violin body. (This is not the line you will cut on — it is of wood placed under the fingerboard will allow you to only recording the proper angle.) change the neck angle.
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Page 13: Cutting The Mortise
Cutting the mortise The heel of the neck will be glued into a mortise cut into the body. Cut this mortise following the marks you made by tracing the shape of the neck heel onto the body. Cut inside the lines; it’s easy to enlarge the mortise, but you don’t want it to be oversize. -
Page 14: Install Tailgut Saddle
Install the tailgut saddle The tailgut saddle supports the plastic tailpiece fastener and keeps it from damaging the softer wood of the violin’s top. Professional makers don’t cut and fit the saddle until the violin is finished and buffed, but we recommend that you do it now. -
Page 15: Install The Endpin
To hold the saddle for carving, use a scrap of wood with a Once the saddle is shaped and fits the notch well, set it aside. raised stop on one end that you can butt the saddle against. It will be glued in after finishing the violin. This will keep your fingers safely away from the cutting tools. -
Page 16: Apply The First Two Finish Coats
well sealed. Even with no color added, the varnish brings out a great color in the wood. After your sealer coat is dry, use a light touch to remove any lint or dust with 400-grit sandpaper (we prefer 3M Gold Fre- Cut®... -
Page 17: Level Sanding
Level-sanding When the last coat of varnish applied is dry, carefully level it with 320- and/or 400-grit sandpaper. The high parts of the finish will be flattened by the sanding, and become dull. That leaves the low areas which are still shiny (shown in the photo). -
Page 18: Final-Finish The Neck
Final-finish the neck Traditionally, the color of the violin covers the peghead and to find the color you want. We used ColorTone Amber and heel of the neck, but feathers away to an almost-bare playing Medium Brown, in tiny amounts, added to Behkol solvent surface on the back of the neck. -
Page 19: Slot The Nut
Slot the nut The nut blank comes roughly shaped to the correct size. Be The bottom of each string slot should be 1/64" (0.3mm) sure the bottom is flat, as well as the front wall that glues above the fingerboard (slightly less than the thickness of a to the fingerboard. -
Page 20: Fit The Bridge
Fit the bridge The bridge’s taller side is for the bass strings, with the treble strings sitting slightly lower and closer to the fingerboard. The bridge will need final height adjustment and fitting. Flatten the bridge by sanding it on a flat surface. Do this sanding on the back of the bridge (the side with a logo stamped on it). -
Page 21: Install The Tailgut
Before The bridge can be further reduced in weight by beveling the After sides and the edges of the cutaway holes, and thinning the feet if they are too thick. Raising the bottom arch between the feet reduces mass, and looks good, too. The string notches will be cut later, when the strings are on. -
Page 22: Install The Chinrest
Install the chinrest The bracket spans the notched area of the chinrest that fits justing bars. To tighten or loosen the bracket, rotate both over the tailpiece. Set the chinrest over the tailpiece with turnbuckles the same number of turns. clearance on both sides. - Page 24 21 N. Shafer St • Athens, Ohio 45701 • USA USA & Canada call toll-free: 800-848-2273 9am-7pm weekdays Eastern time 24-hour fax: 740-593-7922 www.stewmac.com i-5342 03/05...
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