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X250
Introduction
You are in for a real treat. You're going to find that your new
X250 is one of the fastest building and best flying aircraft you've ever
owned. Nothing has been taken for granted. If you follow our
instructions, you'll be amazed at how fast you'll have your X250 in
the air.
We've photographed just about every step in completing the
X250. The notes that accompany each photograph will give you a
"heads up" about any tricks or possible problems you could run into
while completing that particular step. Please read the instructions!
We used thin, fast setting, CA glue in assembling all of the X250
prototypes. If we recommend a different glue for a particular step,
we'll mention it in the notes.
Although any small radio system can be used, we've specifically
set up the X250 for the very popular Hitec HS-60 servos and the
Hitec "555" or "Super Slim" Series sub micro receivers. These servos
and receivers will work with any brand of transmitter and we strongly
recommend them. If you can't find them locally, we always keep
them in stock at SR.
Finally, you'll find that a 5/64" Ball Driver and a Higley
Trimmer will really speed things up. Both are available from SR if
you don't already have them.
On
the
following
specifications and power system recommendations.
Preparing the parts...
We've included a master parts sheet that identifies each part in
the kit and tells you where the part is located. We've deliberately left
all of the MicroLaser Cut parts for the X250 in their sheets to protect
them. Use your modeler's knife and a straight edge to finish the cuts
and release the parts. Just about all of the cuts will be with the grain
to make it easier for you. You can either cut out all of the parts before
you begin or leave them in their sheets until you're ready fo r them.
It's up to you, but you'll be less likely to lose a part if you leave it in
its sheet until you're ready for it.
In most cases, the SR MicroLaser Cut process leaves the balsa
parts with a honey colored edge that needs no sanding. Unfortunately,
the glues used in making plywood tend to glaze the edges of the
plywood parts when they are laser cut. We use a special plywood that
is designed for laser cutting, but we recommend that all plywood
parts be lightly sanded along their edges before gluing the part in
place. In addition, like spruce, plywood parts tend to have an oily film
on their surfaces which prevents CA glues from taking a good hold.
For this reason, we recommend that all plywood parts be given a light
sanding on all surfaces before you glue them in place.
Assembly Instructions
tm
page
you'll
find
detailed
technical
X250
Assembly Instructions, Page 1
tm
©1999

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Summary of Contents for SR X250

  • Page 1 We’ve deliberately left all of the MicroLaser Cut parts for the X250 in their sheets to protect them. Use your modeler’s knife and a straight edge to finish the cuts and release the parts.
  • Page 2: Technical Specifications

    Technical Specifications... can purchase these items locally, or SR has several packages In spite of the X250’s small size, it’s probably one of the available which will save you time and money. most carefully designed model aircraft ever kitted. Literally...
  • Page 3 Warning, Warning, Warning!!! This is the single most important step in building your X250. The Left doubler and side have the switch cutouts entire trueness of the fuselage depends on you properly aligning the Align fuselage doublers to the sides of the fuselage before you glue them to each other.
  • Page 4 Use the alignment jig to hold the servo mount perpendicular to the side of the fuselage while the glue sets. Again, tack glue first. Then remove the jig and complete gluing the servo mount in place. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 4...
  • Page 5 However, if you’re within an 1/8”, just pull the fuselage sides into perfect alignment before you glue the right side in place. With one fuselage side flush up against the right angle jig, the other fuselage side should be within 1/8” of the jig. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 5...
  • Page 6 You’ll be able to correct minor misalignments when you glue the top and bottom sheeting in place, but that’s no reason to not make it as right as possible now. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 6...
  • Page 7 The fuselage top is straight. The fuselage sides may be off a little so pull the fuselage sides left or right a little until they line up with the fuselage top. Tack glue the top to the sides only at the tail at this point. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 7...
  • Page 8 Glue from the inside too... After you’ve finished gluing the fuselage top to the sides from the outside, turn the fuselage over and glue the two together from the inside too. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 8...
  • Page 9 You can trim the scrap to size after the glue has set. All done... This is what the bottom sheeting should look like. You’ll sand it to final shape a little later. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 9...
  • Page 10 Leave the plate in place in its forward position and proceed to the next step. Don’t glue anything yet. Round the forward corners too The hatch retaining plate should fit easily into the recess in the fuselage sides It should also slide forward easily too X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 10...
  • Page 11 Reinstall the hatch. How did it fit? Use a sanding block if need be to adjust the retaining plate so that the hatch can be installed and removed easily and is centered on the fuselage. X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 11...
  • Page 12 Then, round over the corners and sand the top of the fuselage. But, before you do, see the next step!!! X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 12...
  • Page 13 Don’t sand these two areas!!! Sand the cheek cowls to shape... Don’t be afraid to remove material with your sanding block. There’s plenty of “meat” in the X250’s fuselage so don’t be afraid to Cheek cowls give the fuselage a nice curve.
  • Page 14 In a hard landing, we want the landing gear to bend rather than bust anything up in the fuselage. These reinforcing plates tie everything together. Nose gear reinforcing plates X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 14...
  • Page 15 When you’ve finished the horizontal stabilizer, do the same for the parts that make up the vertical stabilizer. Horizontal stabilizer Stab tip Block sand square X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 15...
  • Page 16 At this point, round off the edges of the horizontal stabilizer and taper the elevator’s cross section so it’s only about 1/16” thick along its trailing edge. Round off the elevator’s tips too. Horizontal Stabilizer Elevator X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 16...
  • Page 17 Don’t glue the horizontal stabilizer or vertical stabilizer to the fuselage until after the fuselage is covered. Rudder Vertical Stabilizer The left side of the rudder has the groove Don’t round off X250 Assembly Instructions, Page 17...