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Flylight Nynja Build Manual

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Summary of Contents for Flylight Nynja Build

  • Page 1 Nynja Build manual Version 1.0...
  • Page 2 Figure 1 tube numbering scheme.
  • Page 3 Figure 2 Basic frame (Skyranger).
  • Page 4 Figure 3 uncovered Skyranger frame.
  • Page 5 Figure 4 Uncovered Nynja frame Figure 5 Nynja fuselage with rear fairings removed...
  • Page 6 Figure 6 Nynja fuselage with rear fairings removed – rear view Figure 7 simply assemble thus!

  • Page 7: Table Of Contents

    Contents Introduction ......................10 How to Build Your Aircraft....................10 The BMAA Homebuilt Aircraft System ................12 General Assembly Notes ....................14 Finish ..........................18 Weight ..........................20 Forward Fuselage .................... 21 Tube Numbering ......................21 Fuselage frame assembly overview .................. 23 Lower Cabin Triangle .......................
  • Page 8 Throttles ......................... 143 10. Floor pan, firewall and cowlings ..............147 10.1 Floor pan ........................147 10.2 Firewall and scuttle moulding..................150 10.3 Engine cowlings ......................153 11. Engine Ancillaries ..................158 11.1 CKT twin outlet exhaust fitting ..................158 11.2 Oil cooling ........................160 11.3 Water cooling .........................
  • Page 9 26.2 Aerofoil Jury struts......................244 26.3 General checks ......................246 26.4 Baggage Bag ......................... 246 26.5 Controls ......................... 247 26.6 Powerplant ........................250 26.7 Weight and Balance ....................... 252 26.8 Placards ......................... 253 26.9 Test Flying ........................253 27 Additional Information ..................255 27.1 Example BMAA Homebuilt Registration Form ..............

  • Page 10: Introduction

    Updates to the manual will be made available either on CD or via the Flylight website (www.flylight.co.uk). Don‟t rush things, work carefully, and don‟t forget to enjoy building your aeroplane!
  • Page 11 That way you‟ll get through when you really are stuck! This number should be used rather than Flylight‟s lesson booking line. Email is preferred and more convenient than the telephone, as it makes it simple to communicate answers to other builders and allows time for a better reply to your questions.

  • Page 12: The Bmaa Homebuilt Aircraft System

    It is best to listen to your inspector‟s views, but in case of specific queries either you or your inspector may contact Flylight or the BMAA directly to discuss matters. Please respect the stage inspections and do not present him with a fully built aircraft...
  • Page 13 However, increased cost and less fuel carrying capacity are difficult to avoid. Do not begin any modifications without first speaking to your inspector, the BMAA, or Flylight Airsports.

  • Page 14: General Assembly Notes

    Flylight Airsports cannot advise on, nor be responsible for, the consequences of not following the instructions, as if we have not tried something we cannot comment upon it with any experience.
  • Page 15 Loctite should be used very sparingly. A common mistake is to overuse it. Loctite smeared over the outside of fasteners acts as a corrosive agent. Any surplus should be immediately removed with a soft cloth. A good tip is to paint a red stripe across the nut and bolt end after final tightening. This way it will be easy to inspect and spot any nuts not finally tightened.
  • Page 16 b) avoid friction between two moving metal parts, such as the stick and its supporting bracket c) avoid contact between parts of different materials, especially stainless-steel and aluminium The final point above is primarily to prevent the hard steel wearing through the soft aluminium due to vibration, rather than for electrolytic reasons, as the bolt passing through both materials will still complete the electrical connection.
  • Page 17 Paint the cut end to prevent rusting. Bolts subject to rotation should be drilled and locked with a split pin. Examples include stick pivot bolt, torque-tube pivot bolt, rudder link bolts. Wire-locking Certain parts require securing with lock-wire, such as engine bolts and turnbuckles. If you have not done this before, discuss how to do it with your inspector.

  • Page 18: Finish

    Drilling and cutting When drilling holes or cutting parts be very careful to measure and mark the correct positions. Check these a second time before proceeding to cut or drill. The old adage of measure twice, cut once still applies! Otherwise, you won’t be the first to ring up to order a new bit, having chopped something too short! If you find a part which you think is wrong, in terms of size etc., be very sure that this...
  • Page 19 that will soften the glass fibre. None of the fairings carry structural loads so this does not have any safety implications, but this may result in cosmetic damage in the form of permanent distortion / waves in the fairings. Self adhesive vinyl graphics may be applied, but again avoid large areas of dark colour.

  • Page 20: Weight

    1.5 Weight The UK prototype Nynja with Xlam coverings, Rotax 912ULS and standard „console‟ dash, basic analogue instrument fit , installed intercom box, aerial and radio, and including doors (see note below***), has been found to have a basic empty reference weight of approximately 258kg.

  • Page 21: Forward Fuselage

    2. Forward Fuselage Note: During assembly of the fuselage, hand tighten the bolts only as far as the Nyloc section. After the fuselage is complete and you are sure it is correct, you can go back and tighten all of the nuts. If you wish plain nuts, or even better wing nuts, can be used in the initial construction, to be replaced with Nylocs when the time comes to tighten the nuts up.
  • Page 22 Figure 13 forward fuselage from front quarter. Figure 14 Cabin upper rear corner...

  • Page 23: Fuselage Frame Assembly Overview

    2.2 Fuselage frame assembly overview Lower triangle assembly Attaching TU14 Upper triangle assembly Attaching upper triangle to TU14 Attaching rear cabin uprights TU6 Attaching Upper triangle to uprights...
  • Page 24 Cabin diagonals TU27 attached Twin TU19 tubes in position Front seat support TU15 and braces Forward engine mount assembly fitted Assembling tailcone Tailcone fitted to cabin Figures 15 – assembly overview...

  • Page 25: Lower Cabin Triangle

    2.3 Lower Cabin Triangle 2.3.1 Orienting the main undercarriage cross-beam tu9. The main undercarriage cross-beam tu9 is made of steel. Flip the beam over until satisfied that the holes are in the correct positions. The holes in the steel main undercarriage cross-beam tu9 are drilled at an angle through the beam so that the tail section of the fuselage, which attaches to the third set of holes in from the ends, tilts upwards from the beam whilst the lift-strut attachment bolts, nearest the ends,...
  • Page 26 11,,,SKR.254 Figure 17 lower cabin triangle, rear of tube tu12 (note, find SKR254 in assembly bag A9) b) Assemble the pair of lower cabin triangle tubes tu12 to the main undercarriage cross-beam tu9 using the fourth set of holes inwards from the ends of tu9. The front ends of the lower cabin triangle tubes tu12 should have the cut-outs on the inside, visible in Figure 19.
  • Page 27 2.3.3 Fitting the front vertical to the lower cabin triangle. Figure 19 forward ends of the lower cabin triangle viewed from below and above. Note non- UKMOD nose leg lower guide. a) Fix the lower guide 7 for the nose-leg to the lower part of the front vertical tu14, between the two U-brackets 5.
  • Page 28 Note: Stud shown also supplied as a bolt, and should be fitted head up. Figure 21 forward end of lower cabin triangle.
  • Page 29 b) Apply threadlock to the bolt securing guide 7 to the front vertical tu14 and tighten firmly, but take care not to distort or crush the tube. This should be done at this stage as the bolt holding this bracket is not easily accessible later.

  • Page 30: Upper Cabin Triangle

    2.4 Upper Cabin Triangle 2.4.1 Fitting the sides of the upper cabin triangle to the upper rear cabin cross-piece. Refer to Figure 23 and 24. a) Fix the aluminium linking-plates 2 on the upper rear cabin cross-piece tube tu7, which links the trailing-edges of the wing. These linking plates are drilled at one end with an 8mm hole and at the other with two 6mm holes.
  • Page 31 b) Assemble the upper cabin triangle tubes tu10 with aluminium linking-plates to the upper rear cabin cross-piece tu7. The drawing shows the lower cabin triangle tubes tu12, however the fittings are the same on the upper cabin triangle tubes tu10. Note that the tubes themselves are not the same.
  • Page 32 Figure 25 forward end of upper cabin triangle. 8,,,SKR.94.SB 24,,,WASHER.8 30,,,CASTLENUT.8 31,,,SAFETY PIN 8,,,SKR.94.SB 24,,,WASHER.8 30,,,CASTLENUT.8 31,,,SAFETY PIN Figure 26 forward end of upper cabin triangle.

  • Page 33: Rear Cabin Frame

    Rear Cabin Frame 2.5.1 Preparing the rear cabin uprights. Figure 27 rear cabin uprights and correct handing for attachment ofTU2 fuselage longerons a) Fix the steel U-brackets for the trailing-edges with the taper downwards, using an aluminium saddle washer under each, against the rear cabin uprights tu6. The rear cabin uprights tu6 have inner sleeves at their upper end, and are handed in that the holes that connect the upper rear fuselage longerons TU2 should be angled for the tailcone taper.

  • Page 34: Rear Cabin Frame Bracing

    b) Apply threadlock and tighten the bolts holding the trailing edge U-brackets, as they are not easily accessible later, but not so tight as to prevent easy rotation of the fittings by hand pressure. 2.5.2 Fitting the rear cabin uprights. Refer to figure 27 a) Assemble the rear cabin uprights tu6 to the main undercarriage cross-beam tu9, using the second set of holes from the end.
  • Page 35 c) Install the bolt and spacer to support the seat a short distance above the lower ends of the rear cabin frame diagonals tu27, Figure 29 These should be oriented with the supporting part towards the middle of the aircraft. Note that the spacer tube is also shown on Figure 30 as well as the small bracket piece.
  • Page 36 Figure 31, tu40, rear cabin frame cross-piece, looking from the front. e) Fit the upper ends to the end of the 8mm bolts at the top of the rear cabin uprights tu6. The upper end of the round tube part of tu27 will touch the rear cabin uprights tu6.

  • Page 37: Engine Supports

    UK MOD – the holes will need drilling out to 6mm. Suitable 6mm bolts are included with the wooden spreader bar pieces. b) Paint the wooden tank spreader pieces with fuel-proof paint. Fuel proof paint is available from model aircraft shops, an enjoyable but potentially expensive visit! c) Assemble the wooden fuel tank load spreading pieces on the rear end of these bolts and tighten, but do not crush the wood excessively.
  • Page 38 Figure34 Rotax 912 mounting bracket – note position of TU310 is reversed for Nynja – as shown correctly below Fig 35 Nynja engine mount assembly...
  • Page 39 Fig 36 Nynja firewall support brackets – parts 390/390-1, should be fitted on the engine mount bolts at the front of the TU19’s at this stage as shown Aluminium washers – Note that TU14 is a different diameter – make sure the correct saddle washers are used! 7mm and 1mm plastic...
  • Page 40 Fig 38 Rear of TU19 – ends must be bent to align like his b) It is worth trial fitting the central cabin tubes to the underside of the main undercarriage cross-beam to allow the stainless steel brackets to be bent in a vice to align properly, Fig 38 Before fitting the SKR98 steel engine mount it saves time later if you drill a 6mm hole near the front to fit an earth connection, picture in...
  • Page 41 e) Loosely attach the upper and lower stainless-steel triangulation tubes to the central cabin tubes and the engine mounting brackets, including the alloy side pieces 298, Figure 35 and Figure 39. It will be necessary to tweak the ends of the steel triangulation tubes to position them flat against the engine mount and the front vertical tube tu14.
  • Page 42 1mm plastic washer TU24 TU23 3mm plastic washer TU310 Fig 40 Forward end of TU19 and Liaison of engine mount plates 298BK, TU310, upper triangulation tubes TU24’s and lower triangulation tubes TU23. Note arrangement of plastic washers – only fit them where shown. Figure 41 upper engine mount triangulation tubes.
  • Page 43 Figure 42 lower engine mount triangulation tubes. f) Leave the bolt holding tu310 slack enough to rotate it out of the way when fitting the engine. Figure 43 lower triangulation tubes TU23 and lower engine mounts g) Loosely fix the two stainless-steel lower triangulation tubes tu23 to the front vertical tube tu14, including saddle washers, Figure 42 and 43.
  • Page 44 It may be necessary to apply some weight to the engine mount to fit the bolt holding the lower triangulation tubes tu23 to the front vertical tube, or to use a twisted rope as shown in figure 44. Figure 44 twisted rope used to pull down on engine mount. h) The bolts around the engine mount may now be tightened, starting with those on the mount itself before tightening the bolts holding the top and bottom ends of the triangulation tubes.
  • Page 45 j) With this measurement verified, the diagonal brace TU310 can be bent to fit in position and sit flat against the port engine plate. The plate can then be drilled and the TU310 fixed into position with a 6mm bolt. The TU310 upper edge should be approximately 0-5mm from the upper edge of the engine mounting plate.

  • Page 46: Floor

    Floor a) Fit the seat front support tube tu15, above the lower cabin triangle tubes tu12 with a pair of saddle washers per bolt between the two tubes. Note the tapered ends of the tube taper towards the front. Figure 48 TU15 assembly b) The forward ends of the steel under-seat diagonal tubes tu42, which were attached to the main undercarriage cross-beam, should be attached to the bottom of the bolts securing the seat front support tube tu15 to the lower cabin...
  • Page 47 c) Cut the floor panel out according to the drawn pattern. Cut a hole in the floor for the battery box. The hole is located on the centreline, approximately 1cm back from the rudder pedal mounting bar tu18. The hole is 15cm long by 9cm wide. Figure 50 battery location.

  • Page 48: Rudder Pedals

    The floor passes beneath the rudder pedal mounting bar. Apply the supplied self-adhesive foam strips along the tops of the tubes which the floor rests on, to prevent it rattling. f) To further stiffen the floor in the middle of the cockpit, fit the small piece of L- section aluminium to support the floor, see Figure 56.

  • Page 49: Control Stick Assembly

    d) Attach the rear end of the steel diagonal-brace tu43 to the bottom of one of the bolts, including a plastic washer between the steel brace and the aluminium tube. e) If no floor is fitted, put pieces of prop-tape on the lower cabin triangle tubes tu12 beneath the rudder pedals to protect the tubes from abrasion from the pedals when under load.
  • Page 50 a) If not already done, attach the aileron horn to the machined „top hat‟ with 4mm bolts. Rivets must not be used here, as the fitting carries all the tension loads from the elevator controls. Use the bolts supplied, do not use any unknown strength bolts.
  • Page 51 g) The stick pivot fork end should be fitted through the plastic torque-tube bearing and into the torque-tube. Note that the plastic bearing fits over the fork end and is trapped in position by the torque-tube. This should be an easy fit with 0.5mm free play along the axis of the torque-tube.

  • Page 52: Finishing The Forward Fuselage

    2.11 Finishing the Forward Fuselage 2.11.1 Tightening bolts At this stage it is permissible to tighten most of the bolts, as the cabin frame now forms a well braced structure. The exceptions are the bolts securing the lower ends of the rear verticals to the main undercarriage cross-beam, as these will be undone when fitting the undercarriage.
  • Page 53 Figure 55 central bracing pieces. Note the bolts should be the other way around (as shown in photo fig 56). Figure 56 central bracing pieces.

  • Page 54: Rear Fuselage

    3 Rear Fuselage The rear fuselage is composed of four longitudinal tubes, connected by the vertical fin at the tail end and braced by a single frame half way down. Steel cables are used diagonally to stiffen the structure, with tension applied by turnbuckles fitted to two of the cables.
  • Page 55 resting the upper pair of tubes on it whilst they are attached to the bracing frame and the rudder post is attached to the lower pair of tubes. Figure 58 rear end of upper rear fuselage tubes. Figure 59 rear end of lower rear fuselage tubes.

  • Page 56: Bracing Frame

    3.2 Bracing Frame a) Fit the rear fuselage bracing frame tu39 to the upper and lower rear fuselage tubes using the holes approximately mid-way down the tubes. b) Check the orientation of this frame against the drawing below, as examples have been delivered assembled the wrong way around.

  • Page 57: Front End

    Front End a) Prepare the front ends of the lower tubes. b) Prepare the front ends of the upper tubes. SKR.131 6-SKR.00.5.37 Figure 61 forward end of lower rear fuselage tubes Note upper tubes have brackets orientated at 90 degrees from that shown and cables are arranged differently on Nynja. See Figure(s) 62 c) Mount the front ends of the upper tubes onto the TU6 tubes as shown below.

  • Page 58: Fuselage Bracing Cables

    3.4 Fuselage bracing cables Cable C Cable E Cable F Side view Cable D Upper cables A Plan view Lower cables B Figure 63 fuselage cable arrangement overview a) If necessary Identify the cables from the following table: Cable Number length Tangs and thickness Cable A 2mm...
  • Page 59 C cable tang under A cable tang E cable tang over D cable tang Note both pairs rear cables cross at rearmost attachment point C cable tang under F cable tang Figure 64 fuselage cable ends detail...
  • Page 60 Figures 65 cable arrangement further overview...
  • Page 61 1mm plastic washers above and below tang A cable Forwards E cable D cable plastic washer between tangs and tube Figure 66 cable arrangement Upper starboard side of central frame C cable F cable plastic washer between tangs and tube B cable 1mm plastic washer between tang and tube only...
  • Page 62 b) Loosely fit all cables in the positions shown, and with tangs overlapped as shown above. c) Forward side bracing C cables. These are the only cables with turnbuckles. Tensioning the turnbuckles sets the tension in D cables also, and permits adjustment of Fin angle. d) The tension in the rear cables E and F is provided by attachment at rear.

  • Page 63: Tailplane Front Mounting

    Tailplane Front Mounting a) Attach the aluminium corner section 22, figure 68, to the upper rear fuselage tubes tu2. b) Test fit the tailplane halves between this front mount and the rear mounts. There should be a thin plastic washer at the rear, and a small saddle washer at the front.

  • Page 64: Fuel Tank Support And Flap Handle

    3.6 Fuel Tank Support and Flap Handle Figure 69 fuel tank support / flap handle mount. a) Fit the fuel tank support tu20 to the lower rear fuselage tubes tu4, with the U- bracket located towards the port side of the fuselage and facing upwards, Figure 69 and 70.
  • Page 65 b) Fit the flap handle to the U-bracket, biasing the flap handle tube as far to the starboard side of the bracket as possible, leaving only one saddle washer between the handle and the starboard side of the bracket, figure 71. Figure 71 flap handle pivot.

  • Page 66: Not Tightening The Bolts And Cables

    Fit this bolt the other way around (or the split pin gets caught in your trousers!) Figure 73 Flap handle Not Tightening the Bolts and cables! Do not finally tighten the bolts or cables around the rear fuselage at this stage – this will be detailed later after the landing gear is attached.

  • Page 67: Undercarriage

    4 Undercarriage Wheels All three wheels and tyres are identical, only the hubs differ between the nose wheel and the main wheels, which are fitted with brake discs. Figure 74 wheel parts. a) Place an inner tube inside a tyre, Figure 75. b) Loosely place the tyre onto a wheel half with valve hole, locating the valve through the hole in the wheel half.
  • Page 68 e) Check that the inner tube is not trapped between the wheel halves, and pass all six bolts from the valve side through their washers, both wheel halves, and into the threaded holes on the hub. f) Tighten the bolts and inflate the tyre to 26psi. If the tyre does not slip easily into position a little squirt of neat washing up liquid around the rim can be used to make it slip more easily.

  • Page 69: Main Undercarriage

    Main Undercarriage 4.2.1 Brake calliper attachments a) Check that the callipers are bolted together by the correct bolt to leave the other two holes free to mount the calliper offset slightly to the rear of the undercarriage legs. See Figure 88 for the manner in which the callipers are intended to be mounted.
  • Page 70 4.2.2 Undercarriage legs a) If spats are to be fitted, fit the mounting brackets on the lower pair of stub axle mounting bolts on the wheel side of the stub-axle flange, figure 80. Use the longer bolts supplied in the spat kit. Excess bolt threads can be trimmed off.
  • Page 71 Figure 80 main gear inner spat mount. c) Fit the undercarriage legs to the main undercarriage cross-beam tu9 Make sure that the legs are on the correct sides to place the brake callipers towards the rear! Steel drag braces Figure 81 main gear leg mounting.
  • Page 72 d) The outer clamp should be positioned as far outboard as possible, against or close to the plates holding the base of the rear cabin uprights tu6. Don‟t fully tighten yet. Figure 82 outer U-clamp position. e) Fit the steel drag braces (Fig 80), and then tighten all attachment bolts. The forward end attaches under the Tu144 triangulation side tube (which should be fitted at this time assemble as per Figure 80.

  • Page 73: Nose Gear

    4.3 Nose Gear Refer to Figure 85. a) If no spats are to be fitted apply grease to the inside of the nose wheel lower and upper guides. If spats are to be fitted, then leave this until the nose leg is removed to fit the spat.
  • Page 74 Figure 85 nose leg – use only 7 rubber washers under steel washer, not 9 as shown. d) Above the upper mount there should be another two large steel washers with one, two, or three rubber washers between them as required, secured by a bolt though the nose-leg.
  • Page 75 4.3.1 Nose wheel a) Assemble the wheel on its axle tu101 with a spacer tube tu102 on each side figure 85. The spacer tubes are cut to different lengths to centre the wheel on the axle, as the wheel is not symmetrical about the hub. b) The axle should be attached behind and below the forks.
  • Page 76 b) Temporarily fit the two small steel pushrods tu44 and tu45 linking the steering bar to the rudder pedals. Use the middle holes at this stage. One pushrod is longer than the other to account for the offset of the rudder pedal pivot bars.

  • Page 77: Brakes

    Brakes 4.4.1 Brake brackets a) Slide the main wheels into place on the stub-axles. Use a smear of grease. Sometimes the wheels are a tight fit on the stub axles. If the wheel cannot be slid on and off easily use some fine glasspaper and smooth the exterior of the stub axle, then assemble with a little grease.
  • Page 78 c) Bolt the callipers to the undercarriage legs, using spacers as required to centre the callipers on the discs, Figure 89 The parts to mount the callipers are in the UK Mods kits Note there is movement of the wheel available, but the position used should be with the wheel as close to the undercarriage leg as possible.
  • Page 79 e) Bleed the brake system until the brakes become effective at preventing the plane being pushed. The lever does not have to be very hard to achieve this. Ensure that no brake fluid is spilt on anything. If any is spilt, wash off with copious amounts of water.

  • Page 80: Tail Surfaces

    5. Tail Surfaces Tensioning the Rear Fuselage a) Ensure that the front of the vertical fin is not yet fixed to its mount. b) Check that the rear fuselage is sitting approximately squarely, then tighten the bolts around the rear fuselage, remembering to use threadlock. If there is some “set”...

  • Page 81: Elevator Trim Tab

    Elevator Trim Tab The action is transmitted from the trim lever via a Bowden cable to the trim tab, reacted by a pair of springs. The mechanism will be fitted later 5.2.1 Elevator trim tab a) If desired paint the elevator trim tab hinge The hinge is steel and being downwind of the exhaust outlet can be subject to corrosion.
  • Page 82 g) Attach the rear cable bracket to the lower forward edge of the elevator leading edge spar. Drill the 5mm diameter hole, vertical in relation to the elevator, 230mm from the inboard end of the elevator leading edge 230mm Figure 93 trimmer rear cable bracket. h) Attach the control horns to the trim tab.

  • Page 83: Tailplane

    5.3 Tailplane The tailplane and elevators are assembled and trial fitted at this stage, and then removed to fit the fuselage fairings. 5.3.1 Horizontal stabiliser a) Select the four short cables, which brace the tail surfaces. Figure 95 tail surfaces and bracing cables. b) Attach the upper cables to the back of the vertical stabiliser.
  • Page 84 Figure 97 vertical and horizontal stabiliser front mounting. d) Attach the lower and upper cables to the back edge of the horizontal stabilisers at the outer eyebolt, Figure . The upper cables should go on first, against the tailplane trailing edge tube.
  • Page 85 d) Align the elevators with the tailplane, using two wing under-surface battens or similar straight edge and some bungee cord to hold them level, Figure 98. Figure 98 elevator joiner and alignment (note: Skyranger joiner shown – Nynja version has integral elevator horn).
  • Page 86 Figure 100 Nynja elevator joiner with integral control horn...

  • Page 87: Rudder

    Rudder 5.4.1 Rudder horn assembly Figure 101 rudder horn assembly (note: Skyranger rudder frame shown. Nynja Rudder is slightly different shape). a) Remove the fabric over the 6mm holes in the rudder leading edge spar with a soldering iron. These holes can be felt through the covering, Put in place the bracing angles and secure them lightly with a 6mm diameter, 35mm plain shank length bolt through the hole.
  • Page 88 Figure 102 rudder horn fixing. g) Next insert the horn into position and check the alignment of the rivet holes. h) Ease the holes with a 4mm drill or reamer if necessary to ensure all rivets fit. Check for excessive tightness or looseness of the securing bolts if alignment is not easy.
  • Page 89 5.4.2 Mounting the rudder a) Attach the rudder to the vertical stabilizer using the two eyebolts The eyebolts fitted to the rudder itself should have two steel washers under their heads to stand off the rudder a little or may come with aluminium saddle washers.

  • Page 90: Control Cables

    Control Cables 5.5.1 Cables Identify the rudder and elevator cable pairs. The rudder cables are longer than the elevator cables and are not fitted with turnbuckles, but are fitted with long tangs with a number of mounting holes. The elevator cables are fitted with turnbuckles, one at the rear end and one in the middle, and tangs with a single mounting hole..
  • Page 91 Figure 106 Skyranger rudder cable schematic (Note: Nynja pulley arrangement is different) 5.5.2 Pulleys Elevator cable to upper right side of stick Elevator cable lower left side of stick Rudder cables Trimmer cable bracket Figure 107 Nynja central pulley block arrangement loking rearwards...
  • Page 92 a) Assemble the 4 pulley Block as shown in Figure 107 above. Note that the starboard most plate just has a single saddle washer between it and the TU19. Pass through the control cables as shown in Figure 107. Rudder cables are not handed.
  • Page 93 Figure 109 cable routing past flap handle. The cables pass close over the top of the tubes. Check the clearance with some tension in the controls, rather than just slack. If the cables rub on the flap actuating rod, check that the lever is fitted as per the instructions, particularly on its position to starboard and the spacing of the detent lever.
  • Page 94 h) Secure the stop-rings with adhesive such as epoxy or silicone. i) Attach the rudder cables to the pedals, using the stainless tangs that have several adjustment holes in them. The cable from the starboard-side pedal is the one which passes through the starboard-most pulley in the group of four.
  • Page 95 l) Check to make sure that the rudder moves to the left when you push on the left pedals, and to the right when the right pedals are pushed. m) The tension in the rudder cables is adjusted using the selection of holes in the rudder cable attachment tangs and in the nose leg steering pushrods.
  • Page 96 5.5.3 Rudder stops a) Fit the rudder stop cables to the rudder pedals. The forward ends of the cables have a tang with a bend in it. This picks up on the same bolt as the rudder cable tang, fitted outside the rudder cable tang (closest to the centreline of the aircraft), with the bend angled towards the centre of the cockpit, Figure 112.
  • Page 97 c) Ensure that rigging the rudder cables and setting up the correct tension/ nose leg alignment etc. has been done before adjusting the rudder stop cables. d) Deflect the rudder until the required maximum deflection is achieved (see current HADS), and then adjust the stop cable to match. This is done by lightly clamping the cable with the stainless steel wire clamp supplied.
  • Page 98 instrument panel, to pull the cables up and prevent sag towards the battery. 5.5.4 Rubbing cables a) Check both the rudder and elevator cables to make sure they are not rubbing on any tubes. Apply some typical tension to the cables, such as feet against the rudder pedals, as this will give a better indication of any problem areas.
  • Page 99 c) Pieces of prop-tape or off-cuts of Lexan from the screen can be used to provide additional protection to the tubes if the cables only rattle against the tubes with vibration. They should not be relied on if the cables apply any constant pressure to any tubes they pass over.

  • Page 100: Fitting The Rear Fuselage Fairings

    6 Fitting the Rear Fuselage Fairings Do not cover the fuselage until it has been inspected! See the inspection schedule in your BMAA paperwork. Important: Before covering the fuselage, make sure the cables bracing the rear fuselage have been tightened and the turnbuckles have been safety wired and all bolts are done up and threadlocked.

  • Page 101: Fitting The Rear Fuselage Fairings

    Fitting the rear fuselage fairings a) Prepare the fuselage longerons by covering the outside edges where the fairings will touch with clear tape – clear packaging tape is enough and will help prevent any damage from slight movement and abrasion in service. Also smooth and small lumps or sharp shards from the inside of the corners of the fairings with 80 grit or similar sandpaper.
  • Page 102 c) Wrap some webbing straps around the fairings and tension to pull together. Take care to do this gently and protect the fairings against any buckles or ratchet levers. Figure 118 strapping d) Verify correct positioning: The halves should line up together and the front side edges should align with the rear cabin vertical TU6 tube so that the moulded „joggle‟...
  • Page 103 Figure 120 fitting at rear against finpost e) When correct positioning has been verified a 4mm hole can be drilled each side in the rear of the upper fuselage longeron in the position shown below and a 4mm / 5/32 cleco or skinpin (Light Aerospares - LAS sell them) inserted to hold the fairings in the correct fore and aft position.
  • Page 104 When the holes have been drilled insert Cleco‟s / skinpins to hold in position. Then move to drilling and fixing the fairing front sides to the TU6. Just make one hole each side and secure with Cleco‟s / skinpins. The upper and lower seams have the positions marked for hole drilling with small dots in the moulding.

  • Page 105: Engine Installation

    7. Engine Installation Note that the engine is LIVE until the magneto wires are grounded. Fig 123 engine installation overview Rotax 912/912S Preparation a) Find a clean area to work on the engine, and then give it an even better clean: you do not want any dust or swarf etc.
  • Page 106 Figure 124 water pump outlet in correct position e) Remove the upper rear case bolt located above the starter. This bolt will be replaced with a 10mm x 140mm Allen head machine bolt when the engine is fitted. f) The upper port mounting bolt will not clear the cylinder head fins. The fins must be trimmed with a file, a small Dremel grinding tool, or similar method.
  • Page 107 i) Push the rubber mounts firmly into their holes in the engine mounts. On the upper plates position them so the male halves are fitted from outside to inside – this makes changing them in situ much easier later in the life of the aircraft. Mounting a) Position the engine on the Nynja making sure you do not bump the CDI pickups located on top of the flywheel.
  • Page 108 Figure 127 upper starboard mounting bolt. c) Fix the upper port rubber engine mount between the two washers with a short 60mm bolt. d) Fix the lower starboard rubber engine mount between the two washers with a short 60mm bolt. e) Fix the lower port rubber engine mount between the two washers with a short 60mm bolt.
  • Page 109 7.3 water pump outlets a) The position of these outlets are subject to some variation from the engine manufacture. The lower port outlet can be very close to the engine mounting leg or foul it. Fig 129 area of possible fouling between water pipe and lower engine mount b) If this is the case the outlet elbow must be rotated.

  • Page 110: Wings

    8. Wings The wings are built at this stage to allow them to be fitted to the fuselage to permit accurate positioning of the parts supporting the windscreen. Remember to make a handed pair of wings! Wing Frame Figure 130 overview of wing structure. Ignore the cable numbers. a) Set the leading edge tube tu49 and the trailing edge tube tu50 across two supports at a comfortable working height, or lay a piece of carpet or similar on the floor to work on.
  • Page 111 c) Join the leading and trailing edge tubes with the oval tube tu37 at the tip, Figs 142,143,144. Figure 131 Front of tip Figure 132 rear of tip.
  • Page 112 Figure 133 wing tip– trailing edge, leading edge. d) Use a round tu37 tube to join the leading and trailing edges at the jury strut location, e) The orientation of the bracket that holds the jury struts should be long side downwards and towards the tip The orientation of the bolts should be head downwards, to maximise clearance from the jury struts when they are fitted at the very end of this...
  • Page 113 Figure 135 front jury strut attachment. Figure 136 rear jury strut attachment.
  • Page 114 f) Rivet the small aluminium strips, located on the top of the tu37 tube attachments at the tip and the jury strut locations, onto the top of the leading edge tube, pointing towards the wing root. Use 4mm aluminium rivets. These plates hold the brackets and tubes from turning.
  • Page 115 Figure 139 front lift strut attachment. And UK MOD pulleys ( The bolts holding the pulleys and the tu37 should point upwards to avoid pressing against the coverings. Alternatively they may point downwards, but then nutcaps must be used to protect the coverings from the protruding bolt ends.
  • Page 116 Figure 140 rear lift strut attachment. Attach the bracing cable without a turnbuckle to the fuselage end of the trailing edge tube, Refer to figure 141 g) Attach the bracing cable with the turnbuckle to the fuselage end of the leading edge tube, with the turnbuckle at the fuselage end.
  • Page 117 File edge of this saddle washer clear bracket on fuselage Figure 141 front and rear of tensioning tube.
  • Page 118 Figure 142 tensioning tube fittings, front in left photo (note bolt through compression tube), rear in right photo.

  • Page 119: Aileron Horn Assembly

    Aileron Horn Assembly Figure 143 aileron horn parts. a) Find the hole in the aileron leading edge spar. This is located 480mm from the inboard end of the spar. b) Burn through the fabric with a soldering iron at this point to uncover the hole. c) Lightly bolt into position the upper and lower angles.
  • Page 120 e) If the aileron movement feels at all stiff, the holes for the eyebolts on the trailing edge may need to be eased slightly to achieve good alignment and thus easy movement. Once satisfied tighten the eyebolts, remembering the Loctite, and do not over-tighten (as a guide they should still be able to turn with only moderate finger pressure).

  • Page 121: Attaching The Wings To The Fuselage

    Attaching the Wings to the Fuselage Note this is a temporary fitting, before removal for covering and transportation. However, it should be performed in order to allow easy setting up of the controls. a) Select the front and rear lift struts tu92 and tu91. b) Lay them on the ground next to the fuselage in the position that they would attach.

  • Page 122: Aileron Control Cables

    Aileron Control Cables Figure 147 aileron cable runs. a) Temporarily fit the ailerons onto the wings. b) Check the ailerons for unrestricted movement. If any friction is felt the holes in the trailing edge where the eyebolt hinges attach should be elongated slightly along the tube. This is worth doing on all the hinges, even if no friction is present at this stage, as when the coverings are fitted they tend to build some stress into the wing and cause the ailerons to bind slightly which spoils the feel of the...
  • Page 123 Figure 148 cable routed through U-bracket. e) Pass the cables around the pulleys at the top of the front vertical tube tu14 where the leading edges attach, Figure 147. f) Prepare the fittings for attaching the aileron cables to the driving horn connected to the control stick.
  • Page 124 Figure 149 aileron cable connections viewed from beneath. g) Attach the starboard aileron cable end to the stainless steel plates on the starboard side of the aileron horn using a shackle pin and a nappy pin or split ring. h) Attach the stainless steel plates on the port aileron cable to the port side of the aileron horn using a shackle pin and nappy pin or split ring.
  • Page 125 k) Pass the ends of the cables ca6 over all the tubes in the wing and the fuselage (except the windscreen supports) and around the lower pulleys inside the wing. Loosen the turnbuckle and feed the other ends from the fuselage outwards towards the ailerons.
  • Page 126 Final adjustments to neutral position and control surface movement will be done when the aircraft is complete. s) Check the right and left joy stick movements for the proper aileron deflection: stick left, left aileron up, right aileron down and vice-versa. t) Check for any stiffness and binding.

  • Page 127: Flaps

    Flaps a) Remove the horns on the flap roots. b) Fit the longer Nynja items. These fit on the other side of the tube. Cut a slot in the fabric to facilitate them. Fig 152 Nynja Flap horns c) Temporarily mount the flaps on the wings. If the pin securing the wing trailing edge to the fuselage touches the leading edge tube of the flap, the pin should be shortened to fit.
  • Page 128 Figure 153 flap handle, looking rearwards and flap rods (note Nynja flap rods have slight bend in upper ends, not shown in this drawing)

  • Page 129: Covering The Wings

    Covering the Wings a) Do not cover the wings until they have been inspected! See the inspection schedule. b) Select the odd-one-out from the battens: the trailing edge fitting is flat rather than forked, lay this one aside for the cabin roof. c) Select a typical batten and draw around it onto a large sheet of paper, to make a template for checking the batten profiles later should this be required after repairs etc.
  • Page 130 Figure 154 prop tape over wing tip U-brackets to prevent chafe. If using Xlam coverings you can apply anti corrosion fluids such as ACF50 to all wing frame parts, and inside and outside the tubes, prior to covering. Waxoil inside the tubes can also be used but be sparing or weight will rise! h) Lay the wing cloth on the clean surface, next to the frame, with the lower surface of the wing upwards.
  • Page 131 Figure 155 slide the wing frame into the covering. m) Collapse the wing frame using a scissor type motion so that it will slip easily into the fabric envelope of the wing, Figure 155. The trailing edge has the most fittings on it, so scissor the wing to insert the trailing edge first.
  • Page 132 Figure 156 pulling the fabric into place. r) Tighten the bolts on the compression tubes tu38. s) Install the compression tube tu38 by placing the end without the bolt over the round spacer on the trailing edge of the wing frame. Put the other end over the aluminium cam, and push the strut into place.
  • Page 133 t) Lay the wing flat on its lower surface. u) Replace the turnbuckle on the drag cable and tighten by hand until the other cable comes taught, which may require some effort. The cable with the turnbuckle goes over the other cable. If the cable without the turnbuckle will not tighten up, check that the covering is properly seated along the leading edge.
  • Page 134 Figure 159 tensioning tubes. x) Tighten the wing tensioning tubes against the compression tube by turning the threaded rod. To turn a threaded rod, put two nuts on the end and tighten against each other. Turn the rod with a spanner on the outermost nut, whilst holding the nut behind the tensioning tube with another spanner.
  • Page 135 y) Tension the fabric to the point that you see the compression tube bowing, Figure 160. There should be around a 4cm gap between the compression tube and the vertical wing tensioning tubes. This should result in the bow in the compression tube being no more than the diameter of the compression tube.

  • Page 136: Inserting The Battens

    Inserting the Battens a) Make sure the wing battens are clean, and insert them into the fabric to the point where their rear ends still sit on the trailing edge tube. Get someone to steady the wing. Start with the upper surface battens first. Begin at the tip and work your way toward the root.
  • Page 137 Figure 163 batten end. c) Next do the same with the lower surface battens. d) After the fabric has settled for a few weeks, any remaining minor wrinkles can be taken out using a heat gun to shrink the fabric. Great care must be taken not to burn the fabric!

  • Page 138: Windscreen Frame And Throttles

    9. Windscreen Frame and Throttles Before mounting the cowlings and firewall, the windscreen support frames should be installed. These parts position the rear edge of the cowlings. Windscreen Frame Figure 164 cabin uprights ( note that saddle washer shown may be superseded by flattened tube sides and 1mm plastic washer should then be used).
  • Page 139 b) At the rear of the tu34 support frame, the tubes are flattened slightly and fit onto the bolt end protruding upwards from the fuselage at the trailing edge attachments. Figure 165 Rear ends of windscreen support frame c) Slip one of the large diameter heat-shrink rings over each leading edge, and fit the covered wings to the fuselage.
  • Page 140 900mm Figure 166 Position TU34 uprights 900mm apart Figure 167 left - Check cabin roof tubes align with wing – level or slightly above. Right – check there is a gap of around 3-5mm here. e) It really is a good idea to have the wings covered and fitted to verify the position of the TU34‟s as shown above.
  • Page 141 85mm Figure 168 straight edge across cabin upper tubes. Measurement of 85mm from under tube to straight edge at point of max camber Figure 169 match up with wing so clear roof section will later fit flush like this f) Measure the positions of the tu34 tubes relative to the centre of the aircraft to verify they are still at 900mm g) Mark the positions for the heat-shrink rings to centre them on the tu34 tubes.
  • Page 142 system using aluminium tube and brackets. The aim is to securely locate the tubes. Figure 170 measuring and holding the frame in position.

  • Page 143: Throttles

    Throttles The throttle assembly consists of a torque-tube supported by pivot bolts through mounting plates on either side of the fuselage. Friction is provided by clamping two nylon washers against either side of the plates on the port (Pilot) side lever. Note: Assembly on pivot has a nylon washer either side of the mounting plate, and a 6-25 penny washer on the outside.
  • Page 144 a) Assemble the mounting plates and drill and temporarily fix with clecos / skinpins to the cabin uprights tu34. The plates should be fixed with top hole 420mm above the centre of the lower fixing bolt on the cabin uprights – see fig 173 below b) Temporarily assemble the levers onto the plates.
  • Page 145 d) Temporarily tighten the bolts at the end of the throttle bar. e) Fit the plastic stops on the mounting plates. Note that two of the stops are drilled off centre. They should be fitted in the rear positions on the plates and are rotated to provide fine idle adjustment later.
  • Page 146 Figure 175 Arm should align with vertical part of throttle handle j) Bolt the arm into position using the 6mm bolt and 6-22 saddle washer between arm and torque tube. k) Refit the torque tube onto the mounting plates l) Rivet the plates into position to the cabin uprights tu34, using 4mm steel rivets.

  • Page 147: Floor Pan, Firewall And Cowlings

    Floor pan, firewall and cowlings 10.1 Floor pan With the cabin uprights in place we can now fit the glassfibre floor pan panel. a) Trim to the cut marks to fit around the main undercarriage legs then offer up in position, after first removing the flap detent lever.
  • Page 148 Figure 178 rear overlap e) When happy with the positioning fix first using the two bolts that connect the TU12 tubes to their U brackets – see fig 179 below. Figure 179 fixing at front f) Use 3mm plastic washers under and over the floor panel followed by a steel penny washer before the nut on each of the forward fixing points g) Drill and fix the rear under floor edge with Clecos/ Skinpins starting from the middle and with spacing around 80mm.
  • Page 149 Fig 180 mark cut line i) When happy with fit drill and fix in place with white aluminium 4mm rivets. Evenly spaced at 65mm or so. Fix initially with clecos then ensure all swarf is removed before final riveting. Fig 181 final fixing j) Fix the front to the door pillar tubes (TU34) using three 4mm aluminium rivets each side.

  • Page 150: Firewall And Scuttle Moulding

    10.2 Firewall and scuttle moulding Next steps are to position the firewall and scuttle moulding before assembling the forward cowling pieces. Fig 182 Firewall components, and installed firewall (engine removed for clarity) a) Fit the firewall halves in position behind the engine. Attach the two halves using cleco‟s / skinpins for initially fitting.
  • Page 151 c) Lower edge of firewall sits under the floor plan as shown below don‟t fix at this stage. Figure 184 position of lower edge of firewall d) Fit scuttle moulding in position. It can be fixed to the firewall sides in the position shown below.
  • Page 152 f) Move now to the top edge of the firewall. This is fixed to the upper forward edge of the scuttle. The outer edges will need bending downwards in a slight curve to match the curve of the moulding. This can be done with some light hand pressure.

  • Page 153: Engine Cowlings

    10.3 Engine cowlings a) Assemble the two cowling parts. Offer up first and verify that the two parts fit snugly together. Some sanding on the edges may be necessary for a perfect fit. When happy and initially held together with tape, carefully drill the fixing holes.
  • Page 154 b) Next fix the cowling parts to the scuttle moulding. Offer up first and verify that the two parts fit snugly together. Some sanding on the edges may be necessary for a perfect fit. There should be 7 fixings across the rear of the upper cowling part. Start with one in the centre and one on the outside 30mm from the angle chage as shown below.
  • Page 155 c) With cowlings all attaching and aligned with each other satisfactorily the holes can be opened up to 5mm and the captive nut cowling clips slid over ito position. Cowlings can then be attached with the 5mm cowling bolts. Alternatively if quick release fastners are to be fitted they can be fitted now, or later.
  • Page 156 e) Adjust support height so that cowling aligns with spinner. Set it a little high by 5-10mm to allow for a slight sag when support is removed after scuttle is fixed. Cowlings should sit with around a 10-15mm gap to the spinner edge.this can be adjusted over a small range by pulling forwards or backwards with the clamps holding the scuttle to the door pillars loosened.
  • Page 157 g) Fix the firewall to the floor. Use 6 x 4mm rivets each side of centre with a spacing of around 50mm – don‟t fit the outer rivets just yet. Figure 194 fixing lower edge of firewall to floor pan h) Fix the lower sides of the scuttle to the floor.

  • Page 158: Engine Ancillaries

    11. Engine Ancillaries 11.1 CKT twin outlet exhaust fitting Figure 197 – exhaust in position and with heater jacket a) If fitted with the heater option check the aluminium heater jacket is in position and clamps are tight. Some blobs of high temp silicon applied across the clamp strap every few inches, and the tightening bolt threads is a good idea to stop loosening and movement in service.
  • Page 159 f) The front Starboard pipe incorporates a sliding joint. Leave tightening this pipe until last. Before fully tightening the bolts, slacken the clamp and adjust the length so that all four pipes fit evenly into the exhaust. If this pipe is adjusted too short the front starboard and rear port pipes will not seal properly and if too long the front port and rear starboard pipes will not seal properly.

  • Page 160: Oil Cooling

    Note that the engine may contain some oil, be prepared for this when removing caps etc. Ensure that all oil hoses are properly rated for use within an engine compartment if not using the hose supplied by Rotax / Flylight. a) Fix the oil tank mounting brackets on the firewall with 4mm aluminium rivets.
  • Page 161 65mm Figure 201 Oil cooler and Water radiator. Attach the lower brackets loosely. Rotate so they align with oil cooler as above. Mark the position for the rivets through the holes in the brackets. Note that the top and bottom plates of the oil cooler do not contain oil. Drill the rivet holes very carefully, using a depth stop on a pillar drill, or a very slow speed on a hand drill.
  • Page 162 Figure 204 radiator position and attachment d) With cowling in position. Check clearance from oil cooler to the heater jacket intake on the exhaust. Cut this back as required to ensure a 10mm or so gap. Install the hose from the port side of the oil cooler to pass around the starboard side of the engine to the connection on the oil tank marked OUT.
  • Page 163 Figure 206 hose should be pulled forwards with cabletie and short standoff in position indicated to provide good clearance from fretting on engine From starboard oil cooler outlet to oil tank outlet From Port cooler outlet to oil pump inlet Figure 207 Hose routings from oil cooler outlets Figure 208 Routing of oil hose from Sump connection to inlet of oil tank.

  • Page 164: Water Cooling

    11.3 Water cooling a) Fit the starboard water pipe assembly . This has straight hose at both ends. The rear connects to the water pump outlet on the back of the engine. Figure 209 starboard water pipe. b) Remove the port-side carburettor inlet manifold. c) Remove the rubber water hoses between the expansion tank and the elbows on the port-side cylinder heads.
  • Page 165 The sensor for this is actually the CHT sensor from the front port cylinder head. Unscrew this and screw it into the water temperature fitting, using a touch of sealant on the threads. Figure 211 water temperature sensor. f) Refit the hoses. The hoses may have to be repositioned slightly to effect maximum rotation of the expansion tank.
  • Page 166 Figure 213 port water hose. k) The water overflow tank should be mounted on the port side of the firewall by bending the securing strap around the indent in the tank and securing it to the firewall with two 4mm screws. Use a square of self adhesive hook and loop Velcro between overflow bottle and firewall.

  • Page 167: Fuel System

    12 Fuel System Vent tubes – discharge overboard Carburettors Fuel pump Restricted T for Anti Vapour lock fuel return Fuel Tap Fuel filter Fuel drain Curtis valve Figure 215 fuel system schematic, Rotax 912. 12.1 Engine compartment a) Fit fuel lines from carburettors and a T-piece in the pipe as shown in Fig 216 Remember to slip the appropriate pipe clips over the pipes.
  • Page 168 c) At this position a T-piece with a restrictor connects to allow the anti-vapour lock fuel return line to pass neatly behind the gearbox, Figure 216. This restrictor should be a precision Rotax/Skydrive item. d) The front of this T-piece then connects to the fuel pump outlet (the smaller diameter pipe spigot on the pump).

  • Page 169: Fuel Tanks

    12.2 Fuel Tanks a) Your (UK) Nynja fuel tanks are supplied pre drilled for the fittings. Check the holes have smooth sides without flashings. If necessary lightly sand with fine wet and dry sandpaper. b) Identify left and right tanks. The right (starboard) tank has the filler neck fitting pre installed.
  • Page 170 12.2.1 Fuel tank load spreader bars Ensure that these were fitted earlier, in the section on the forward fuselage. Figure 219 fuel tank spreader bar. 12.2.2 Fuel tank securing straps a) Apply some protection on the lower bracing cables just behind the crossbar that the tanks fit on (the one that the flap handle attaches to), to protect the rear corner of the tanks from abrasion.
  • Page 171 e) Pull everything tight, working the tension around the system until even. f) Finally tie off any loose strap. 12.2.3 Fuel tank connections a) The fuel drain should be connected to the fuel balance pipe (the lowest if two are fitted). Fit the pipe with a T-piece to connect the fuel drain, which must discharge clear of the aircraft, Figure 211 The fuel drain tap is fitted through the fuselage fairing just behind the port undercarriage leg.
  • Page 172 c) The tap should then be connected to the fuel filter, and then run forwards to connect to the aluminium pipe. (Note that the filter will have an orientation marker in the form of a flow direction arrow) d) The fuel return pipe from the engine compartment should be attached to its fitting in the top of the starboard tank.
  • Page 173 b) Loosely fit the fitting and adjust its angle to align with the filler neck in the Tank. The tank will have to be slid sideways until best alignment is found. c) The fitting can now be secured to the fuselage – by drilling and using 4mm nuts and bolts.

  • Page 174: Instrument Panel

    13 Instrument panel Figure 216 instrument panel overview a) Find the instrument panel angles and dashboard supports – shown below: Part 433 Part 411 Part 437 Part 410 Part 443 Part 400 Figure 217 dashboard supports and instrument panel framing angles b) Start with fixing the angle (part 443) to the firewall as shown in Fig 218 below.
  • Page 175 c) Part 411 attaches to 443 with a 4mm nut and bolt. It attaches to Tube 14 at its rear. Part 410 fits from Tube14 to the top of the instrument panel.Attach then to Tube 14 with a jubilee clip and ajst position for alignment. Fit these to Tube14 now and make sure the holes align between 441 and 443.Adjust with packing between 411 and TU14 if required.
  • Page 176 f) Attach the instrument panel. At the bottom using 6mm bolts through the part 400‟s and the foremost holes in theTube19‟s. At the top fix to the part 410 with a 4mm bolt g) Offer up the dash binnacle mouldings. Trim to fit snugly, but allow some room against the firewall for coverings.

  • Page 177: Throttle And Choke Cables

    14 Throttle and Choke cables a) Rivet the throttle / choke cable guide plate into position. Position it as allow as is practicable, and laterally central with the upper triangulation tube 24 – so that the throttle cable pair passes inside and clear of it and the choke cable pair passes outside and clear of it.
  • Page 178 Figures 224 route of throttle cable to port carburettor (In white) c) Attach throttle cable inners to top of throttle arm and run through the outers to the carburettors. d) The throttle arm incorpoartes a spring to help balance the pull of the springs on the carburettor.
  • Page 179 e) Choke cable outers run as in Fig 226 and 227 below: Figure 226 choke cable route to starboard carburettor (in white) Figure 227 route of choke cable to port carburettor (in white) f) The choke inner cable is a simple loop of cable covered with plastic tube where it passes through the instrument panel on the port side, Fig 228...
  • Page 180 A pop-rivet with the centre pushed out makes a neat cable guide for the choke cables passing through the instrument panel. Secure the rivets with a small piece of tubing pushed over the rear of them, or with a touch of glue. Figure 228 choke.

  • Page 181: Instruments

    15 Instruments i) Remove the panel and mount the instruments, magneto switches etc. in the panel as desired. However, note the position of the throttle cable lever arm and spring, and do not mount instruments so that they interfere with it. BMAA TILs 7 and 27 may be useful reading regarding the fitting of instruments.

  • Page 182: Electrical System

    16 Electrical System Figure 230 overall wiring schematic, Rotax 912 and standard analogue instruments. (ensure all colours are visible when printed out)
  • Page 183 Figure 231 heavy duty power wiring schematic, Rotax 912.
  • Page 184 Figure 232 low current wiring schematic, Rotax 912.
  • Page 185 Figure 233 instrument wiring schematic, Rotax 912.

  • Page 186: Wiring General Points

    16.1 Wiring General Points A ready-made wiring loom is included with the engine installation package for the Rotax 912, with standard instruments. The instructions on wiring assume you have either bought this, or are wiring it yourself in the same manner. If you do not have a basic understanding of electrical systems it may be advisable to buy an introductory text on electrics, especially if you are not using the ready-made loom, or are adding extra equipment.
  • Page 187 e) The fuse box can be mounted through the instrument panel for easy access – as shown below, or if panel is full of instruments and space is tight may be mounted elsewhere. The contacts can be conveniently connected together, where required, by drilling one hole through each of the protruding contacts in a line and soldering a length of solid wire into the holes.

  • Page 188: Battery

    Disconnection would occur either by blowing of the fuse to the battery or if the wire to terminal C on the regulator were to become disconnected. A suitable capacitor is available from Rotax/Skydrive. If only protection from disconnection were required, a smaller capacitor could be used at your own discretion.
  • Page 189 e) Attach the earth cable to the battery negative and to a bolt on the engine block. Route the cable through the firewall in the vicinity of the other wires. f) The regulator can be positioned on the front or rear side of the firewall, or on the steel SKR98 plate.

  • Page 190: Windscreen And Rear Windows

    Check that you have not left the leading-edge securing pins in place, as if you do, and they are incorrectly inserted from the front instead of their Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 191 The lexan is normally a little oversized in width. Mark the sides, remove and cut, so that the edges sit just past the peak of the wing covering root batten by 5mm or so Figure 240 lexan edge matched to wing covering root batten peak Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 192 Peel back the securing film so it is not trapped between the TU34 and the lexan and under the rivet heads – it won‟t be easy to get out afterwards.. Use the black 4mm aluminium rivets. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 193 Drill the roof batten (not the screen centre batten) matching the spacing on the adjacent windscreen supports Apply the thin self adhesive foam strip to the batten ensemble where it will touch the lexan. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 194 Dress the rear side edges of the windscreen smooth with a sanding block. Apply two lines of 1x10mm self adhesive foam strip to the edge, where the door will overlap later. Fig 243 windscreen side fillet, and vista vent Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 195: Rear Windows

    The rear coudl be rivets or the black 4mm plastic screws. 3mm foam packing could be used underneath between the aluminium strip and the tube. In both fxing methods, take care to allow for the seatbelts and not trap them! Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 196 On the side the windows will need carefully marking and cutting to fit around the brackets on the end of the TU2 upper fuselage tubes. A dremel cutting wheel and sanding drum makes light work of this. Figure 246 lexan cut around end of TU2 Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 197 Trim the edge of the lexan to be flush with forward edge of tube. Use the trim beading over the exposed edge. The rivet line should be covered with a strip of 3mm self adhesive foam Figure 247 finished installed rear window Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 198: Doors

    This peice is purely cosmetic and the drafts are sealed by the strip on the angle. So you decide which way to do it on your aircraft! Figure 248 fabric enclosure, and extended angle to close gap to wing undersurface. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 199 This edge can then be trimmed to an even overlap. The aluminium door angle should be butted up underneath, drilled to fit in that position. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 200: One Piece Door

    18.2 One Piece Door Figure 250 one piece door frame. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 201 If not fitted already fit this now. It runs the whole way up to align with the joggle in the door sill. Trim and dress the edges of the windscreen and cowling moulding to align just beyond the centre of TU34 – leaving enough edge distance for the rivets. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 202 Fit in position using the gusset plates shown in drawing Fig 250, and 4mm aluminium rivets. Fig 253 front and rear gusset plates i) Do a final check of fit and operation of the doorframe. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 203 Fit the door and mark carefully the overlap for cutting to final position. The front and lower edge should be cut to match the recess. The rear can overlap the rear window, or another glassfibre strip can be used. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 204 It should be fitted with the bolt tightened to ensure enough friction to prevent inadvertent rotation. A convenient hole in tu34 can be used as a detent, or one drilled for the purpose. Figure 255 front catch. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 205 Alternatively a stay can be fabricated or small gas filled struts fitted to hold the door open Figure 256 door open keeper, and example of an alternative fabricated stay. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 206: Two Piece Door

    This should then match the windscreen lower edge and but against or near it. Lower edge should fit level with the top edge of the floor pan moulding sill. 25mm – to match screen lexan overlap Figure 258 upper and lower hinge positions Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 207 Make sure that the rear part of the door frame is close enough to the rear cabin upright to allow the door catch to reach 5-10mm overlap with catch plate. Figure 260 door catch overlap Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 208 It is imporatnt that the outwards bend matches the position of the bend in the upper door frame. Get this now and tap it in position so that this can be ascertained and the tube trimmed to fit accordingly. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 209 – 4mm diameter in TU34 and 5mm in TU6. c) Offer it up again, mark and drill the TU34 and TU6 to match, and temporarily fix into position and verify fit, then remove. d) Attach the hinges. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 210 It should fit in the opening with even spacing – again of 10-15mm. Use some spacers to sand it off from the lower door frame and TU34 at this spacing. Adjust the bends as required to get a nice fit. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 211 Figure 265 top rail tube fixed to hinge i) Check opening and closing of door frame and good alignment. Tweak as necessary, then rivet on the upper corners gusset plates, with 4mm aluminium rivets. Figure 266 upper corner gusset plates. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 212 When drilling angle the drill slightly away from the last rivet. When squeezing the rivets bring the rivet upright. This then applies some light tension to the Lexan and prevents the Lexan bulging between rivets. Take care when drilling to ensure the tube is drilled centrally. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 213 Apply 3mm self adhesive foam strip on the upper edge of the lexan aligned with the top edge, where the upper door will overlap. Figure 268 lower door lexan fit g) Refit the upper doors, mark and trim the lexan. Figure 269 upper door lexan fit Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 214 Fit the forward catch by drilling a 5mm hole in the forward vertical of the upper door frame just above the bend radius (see Figure 308) Assemble the parts with two 3mm plastic washers, and a saddle washer between catch and doorframe. f) Adjust the tension to achieve some friction. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 215 The door catch is activated by pulling the wire. Fix the front end with a 4mm rivet to the underside of the door tube leaving a slight bow. Figure 272 door catch Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 216 Still holding it in position and slightly overbent, apply the rivets. This will then make the door far more torsionally rigid. Figure 274 upper and lower gusset plates (port side lower door) Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 217: Tail Surfaces Again

    Figure 275 trim tab cable. b) Fit the trim tab cable bracket on the bolt at the front of the flap lever guide in the position as shown below: Figure 276 trim tab forward cable bracket Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 218 Figure 278 position of hole in top elevator surface. f) Also melt a hole in the lower surface of the elevator fabric for the inner cable, 140mm rearwards of the centre of the leading edge and 170mm away from Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 219 Attach the loop at the end of the trimmer cable to the trim tab control horn with a bolt and plastic „top hat‟ spacer. The cable goes on the inboard side of the horn. Figure 280 cable attachment on trim tab horn. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 220 „top hat‟ bush – as shown in Figure 282 below. e) Fit the stop bolt This is an M5-30 bolt, the threaded end of which sticks out and is covered by a length of tygon tube. It touches the TU19 at limits of Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 221 The cable wraps around the top hat bush and is secured using two solderless nipples. The holes in these need to be drilled out to 3mm to accommodate two lengths of the inner cable passing through. Figure 283 cable connection and stop movement illustration Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 222 Ensure that the trimmer works in the correct sense! Trim lever forwards, trim tab deflects upwards, pushes elevator downwards, tail goes up, nose goes down. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 223: Centre Console

    Put it loosely in position and mark and cut a preliminary slot for the trim lever (30mm from centreline of console) – or alternatively undo the lever and lay it out of the way and make the slot later. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 224 It will also need trimming around the front upper corners as shown below. Figure 287 front corner trimming e) Use thin Aluminium angle fixed to the floor with self taping screws, to mount the lower edge of the centre console. The angles should be 150mm apart Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 225 Drill and fix the top hat bushes that form the retaining points for the controls stick gaiter using the dimensions shown below.. These fit with 4x16mm stainless screws, nuts and washers. 115mm 155mm Figure 289 Control stick gaiter fixings. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 226 Figure 300 trim lever finished and edged slot. h) The front edge of the console where it buts against the instrument panel can also be edged with teh rubber beading. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 227: Seats And Seatbelts

    Rest the glassfibre part of the seats on the base and drill and fix them. Front is fixed passing the SKR 0.27eyebolt through the seat base. At the rear the seat is fixed with a P clip, and 5mm panhead bolt Figure 302 Front and rear fixings Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 228 The covers have a cord running around a pocket in their perimeter. Make sure this is slack and then tighten after fitting. Push the east cover down into the seat pan to fully engage with the Velcro strips. Figure 305 seat cover fitting Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 229 L bracket. It attaches directly for the lwoer position or must have a 20mm spacer inserted for the higher position. Spacer can be fitted here if lower position is desired Figure 306 Front fixing 20mm spacer needed for high position Figure 307 rear seat rest positions Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 230: Seatbelts

    The seatbelt should be brought around the sides of the seat. Belts have a single adjusters for lap and shoulder harnesses. Make sure belts are free running and can centre. Don‟t be tempted to secure to the beams. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 231: Wheel Spats

    – or very slightly raised at the rear for best aerodynamic effect. 490mm approx, from end of spat to hole centre – depends on angle so this is a guide only, check fit by offering up before drilling! Figure 311 nose wheel spat. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 232: Main Wheels

    22.2 Main Wheels a) The spats may be positioned as per Fig 312 Note the bulge goes to the inside to encompass the brakes, with the flat spat side outwards. Figure 312 main wheel spats Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 233 Fit the spats and secure them with M5 bolts with Nylon washers under the heads to protect the fibreglass. Three bolts secure each spat, two on the inside and one on the outside. Figure 315 spat, showing outer mount bolt. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 234: Fairings

    Secure the fairing to the fuselage using aluminium white 4mm rivets. c) The edges can be taped over with white self adhesive vinyl tape if desired. 23.2 Upper Fin Fairing Figure 317 Upper fin fairing Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 235 Use 3 rivets on each side through the rear spar – taking care to position the top rivet hole below the existing rivet under the covering at the top of the tube. 140mm 20mm Figure 318 rivet position Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 236: Wing Root Fairings

    For best effect against the tinted screen viewed from the inside, we painted the inside of the fairings black, and use the black domed headed nuts 23.4 Cable Exit Fairings Figure 320 Cable exit fairings Fix these with the white 4x10mm plastic panhead screws. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 237: Tailplane Leading Edge Fairings

    These are simple reinfrced fabric fairings that velcro into position on the outer strut ends as shown below. Strips of velco are then stuck on the wing covering to secure the outer ends. Figure 322 strut end fairings Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 238: Wingtip Fairings

    Use the white 4mm aluminium rivets. These should fix the wingtip fairing to the TU37a tip tube. Take care not to drill through the U brackets at the ends of the tubes. Don‟t drill here ! Figure 324 Wing tip Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 239 Drill the wingtip fairing 35mm from its edge. After verifying where to drill, drill the wingtip fairing first. Then offer it up and drill through the holes into the tip tube. Figure 325 marking, drilling and fixing the wingtip fairings. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 240: Aerofoil Profile Support Blocks

    Cut the 10mm wide foam strip supplied into 155mm lengths. Cut 2 for the very end battens 110mm. b) Using some 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a batten sized tube, sand in some grooves on the edges Figure 327 below Figure 327 Support block dimesnions and grooves Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 241 (or second hand if you can squeeze it in) and push into place. Slide the block so as its centre is around 350mm behind the rear face of the leading edge. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 242: Fitting The Heater Option

    This hole should be positioned so the valve assembly is clear of the rudder pedal/ noseleg steering bar linkage movement. It may be positioned as shown below or higher up and closer to the aircrafts centreline. Figure 329 Valve positioning Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 243 Cable inner and outer can be trimmed to length if a little over long. Knob pulls out and twists to lock in desired position. Figure331 heater control knob Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 244: Preparing For Flight

    Jury strut fits over this. Grommet not required if female eyebolt. It is then fixed with a 4-35mm bolt and Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 245 Washers should be used both under the head of the bolt and under the nut. Figure 328 Aerofoil jury strut overview Upright edge Fig 329 Rear and front lower fittings. Note orientation (looking from rear) Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 246: General Checks

    Loop the rear securing straps around the base of the rear fuselage bracing frame at its lower corners, with the buckle towards the fuel tanks. The strap should loop around the back of all the tubes. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 247: Controls

    Check the full and free movement, in the correct sense, of all combinations of the controls. c) Check the neutral positions of the flaps and their operation. The flaps should be set with the centre of their trailing edges 125mm above the corner of the fuselage fairing Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 248 If any friction is felt then remove the aileron eyebolt hinges and file the holes in the aileron leading edges until the ailerons move freely. This will greatly improve the feel of the aileron controls. A touch of oil / grease on the hinges works wonders Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 249 With the rudder straight, the nose-wheel should be straight. Rudder  movement should be 25 each way. Nose-wheel movement should be symmetrical each way. l) Wire-lock all turnbuckles. m) Check the correct operation of the brakes. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 250: Powerplant

    Set enough friction by tightening the inboard nut to prevent the throttles from vibrating open or closed, then lock this setting with the second nut. Do not set any friction at all on the starboard end of the torque tube. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 251 1. Carburettor levers touching the stops on carbs before the throttle lever touches its stop – wind them well clear! 2. Insufficient throttle lever friction. 3. Too much throttle lever friction (causes a „stepped‟ opening and closing) Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 252: Weight And Balance

    120kg per seat value until the CG is within limits. This does not affect the actual max seat load, but note that the 450/472.5kg MTOW must be complied with to automatically guarantee that the CG remains within limits. Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 253: Placards

    Please do not put them in the awkward position of having to refuse. The inconvenience of moving the aeroplane to a suitable test flying location is far less than the inconvenience of a rebuild! Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 254 Some spare hardware – split pins, nyloc nuts etc. All 450kg of associated paperwork! Refer back to section 1.2 for more information on the paperwork and test flying procedure. And finally, don‟t forget your camera to record the moment! Happy Flying! Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 255: Additional Information

    27 Additional Information 27.1 Example BMAA Homebuilt Registration Form Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 256 Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 257: Wire-Locking

    27.2 Wire-locking Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 258 Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 259 Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 260 Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 261: Index

    83 central brace, 52 intake manifold balancing tube, 165 central cabin tubes tu19, 39 jury struts, 112 compression tubes tu38, 132 leading edge tube tu49, 110 control stick, 49 Lexan, 190, 212 LOCTITE, 14 Copaslip, 158 Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 262 48, 76 torque-tube bearing, 50 rudder pedals position, 95 T-piece, 167 rudder post, 54 trailing edge tube tu50, 110 rudder stops, 51, 96 trim lever, 220 seat front support tube tu15, 46 trim tab horns, 82 Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 263 UP for ON, 187 wing root, 133 upper cabin triangle tubes tu10, 31 wing tensioning tubes, 133 upper rear cabin cross-piece tu7, 30, wings, 110 wings, attaching, 121 varnish, 47 wiring loom, 186 vertical fin, 80 Nynja Build manual 1.0...

  • Page 264: Amendments

    Oil cooler – section 11.2. Change of sequence for fitting upper fin fairing, section 23.2. Change of fixing for cable outlet fairings from rivets to plastic screws – section 23.4. Change of edge distance for rivet holes in wingtips to 40mm, section 23.7. Nynja Build manual 1.0...
  • Page 265 Nynja Build manual 1.0...

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