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Zeppelin Design Labs Altura Theremin Assembly Instructions Manual

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Summary of Contents for Zeppelin Design Labs Altura Theremin

  • Page 2 SCHEMATIC ......................54 © 2017 ZEPPELIN DESIGN LABS. NO PART OF THIS DOCUMENT MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE AUTHOR. ZEPPELIN DESIGN LABS TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE OR HARM THAT MAY COME TO ANYONE OR ANYTHING THROUGH THEIR PRODUCTS. THE ALTURA SOFTWARE IS COVERED BY THE CREATIVE COMMONS SHARE-ALIKE/ATTRIBUTION/NON-COMMERCIAL LICENSE, WHICH MEANS YOU ARE FREE TO ADD OR BUILD UPON THE CIRCUIT IDEA AND THE SOFTWARE IN ANY WAY YOUR CREATIVITY ALLOWS, BUT ANY DERIVATIVES MUST BE SHARED USING THE SAME LICENSE.

  • Page 3: Introduction

    INTRODUCTION The Altura Theremin MIDI Controller by Zeppelin Design Labs was inspired by the early electronic instrument invented by Russian physicist Léon Theremin. Léon’s device features a pair of antennae that can sense the capacitance of a person’s hands. The right antenna affects a voltage controlled oscillator (VCO) circuit.
  • Page 4 Bob Moog, got his start back in the 1960’s designing and selling theremin kits, before he revolutionized popular and electronic music with his modular synthesizers. At Zeppelin Design Labs, with our love of electronic instruments and DIY kits, we hope the Altura will continue Léon Theremin’s legacy of inspiring both artists and electronics nerds.
  • Page 5 As a result, the Altura always plays in tune! The Altura was designed as a companion to the Macchiato Mini Synth by Zeppelin Design Labs. There are a few special features that will only work well when paired with the Macchiato. Otherwise, the Altura conforms with General MIDI specifications and should easily control any device bearing this mark.

  • Page 6: What's In The Box

    WHAT’S IN THE BOX Table 1: The Altura Theremin MIDI Controller Bill Of Materials (BOM) is a complete parts list of everything that should be present in your kit, followed by photos of each part. Print the BOM and carefully go through the kit, identifying every part.Before removing...
  • Page 7 Table 1: The Altura Theremin MIDI Controller Bill Of Materials Part # Description Notes CB-06-10 4 Pin Header Cable From PCB to distance sensors CP-30-19 Ceramic Capacitor 50V 22pF C9, C10 CP-30-18 Ceramic Capacitor 50V 100nF C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, C8...
  • Page 8 CB-06-10 C9,C10 C2- C8 DISPLAY FA-60-37 FA-90-25 FA-64-30 HD-05-03 HD-60-10 TD-20-01 HE-20-01 HE-25-28 HE-30-01 PL-10-72 PL-10-73 PL-10-90 VR1-VR7 R1,R2,R3,R13 R4 - R11,R14 ST-10-23 ST-60-01...

  • Page 9: What You Will Need

    Q1,Q2,Q3 WHAT YOU WILL NEED Here’s everything you will need to build The Altura Theremin MIDI Controller kit as shown below. Tools and supplies needed for various cabinet options are discussed in the section “MAKING A CABINET” on page 33.

  • Page 10: Populating The Printed Circuit Board

    POPULATING THE PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD Your work space should be well-lit, well-ventilated, and disposable; that is, don’t work on the nice dining room table! Work on a utility surface that you can burn, drill and scratch. A piece of ¼” tempered masonite, or a chunk of MDF, makes an excellent surface if you don’t have a utility work bench.
  • Page 11 Most of the components in your Altura are soldered to the printed circuit board (PCB); just the distance sensors and the 3-digit display are attached to the board via headers. All of the components to be soldered will be installed from the “component side” of the board (except the battery holder wires), which is the side that has the part labels printed on it.
  • Page 12 Let’s begin! 1. Female headers: Lay the PCB on a smooth, flat surface with the component side up. Insert one of the female headers (part #HE-30-01) in its place (1). Make sure the ends of the header’s legs are flush with the solder side, underneath the board. Hold the header straight up at 90 degrees and solder one of the legs on the component side (2).
  • Page 13 2. Standoffs: Attach the 4 standoffs (#ST-10-23) to the PCB with 4 M3x6 screws (part #FA-60-37). 3. Resistors: The values of resistors are given by a series of colored stripes. There are several tutorials online describing how to decode these stripes, but we will simply tell you the values, part numbers and stripe colors.
  • Page 14 b. Next do the 220 ohm resistors (R1,R2,R3,R13). These resistors are labeled RED, RED, BLACK, BLACK, BROWN. Bend the leads on the back so they won’t fall out. c. Lastly, install the 10K resistor (R12), labeled BROWN, BLACK, BLACK, RED, BROWN. Bend the leads.
  • Page 15 e. Double-check the resistance values of each of the installed resistors (18). Set your digital multimeter to the “ohms” or “resistance” setting, and measure across all of the resistors. Compare the measured value to the listed value in Table 1 and in Figure 3. Make sure they are all correct (within 1%) before moving on! 4.
  • Page 16 6. Headers (P2): Your kit includes a single row of 14 male headers. These will be installed across three different locations on the PCB. First, we’ll install the In-System Programmer (ISP) headers. This is a 2x3 header array that enables you to plug a cable into your Altura and upload (or “flash”) new software onto the microcontroller.
  • Page 17 b. Break the remaining 8 pin header in two (4 header pins each). One of the 4-pin pieces goes in the “Right Sensor” position on the PCB (28). Be sure it’s flush to the top of the PCB and solder it the same way as the ISP header: tack a pin down and then solder the rest of the pins (29,30).
  • Page 18 There are two 22pF ceramic capacitors (C9,C10). Place the 22pF capacitors in their respective places on the PCB and bend the leads out on the back so they don’t fall out (34,35). Once again, please make sure you install the 22pF caps in their correct locations - don’t mix them up with the 100nF variety.
  • Page 19 8. Transistors: There are three transistors in the Altura (Q1,Q2,Q3). These transistors are labeled 2N3904 (and possibly a few extra numbers or letters at the end). They look identical to the voltage regulator (labeled L78L05), so please don’t get them mixed up -- otherwise your Altura won’t work! These transistors are shaped like a three-quarter moon.
  • Page 20 seconds, and keep the chip cool enough to touch. If necessary, just solder one leg at time and let the chip cool off before proceeding to the next leg. • IC’s have a specific orientation. If you install them wrong, your Altura will not work and you could damage or destroy the IC.
  • Page 21 b. CD4051 (U2): This chip is called a “multiplexer.” This multiplexer allows the microcontroller to continuously sample the value of each potentiometer, one at a time. Install the multiplexer in location U2. For it to fit easily into the holes, you may have to gently bend the leads closer together, pushing each side of the chip down on a flat surface (46,47).
  • Page 22 c. SN74HC595 Shift Register (U3): The shift register decodes information received from the microcontroller to operate the 3-digit display. This IC should be installed in the same way as the previous chip. Mind the divot on one end of the IC and align it with the PCB graphic at U3. ii.
  • Page 23 e. Install the AtMega328p microcontroller in its socket. If the pins don’t line up too well to the socket, you may have to gently bend the leads a little closer together by pushing each side of the chip down on a flat surface (56). Once the pins line up to the socket holes, push the IC snugly into place (58,59).
  • Page 24 11. Trimmer Potentiometer (VR8): The trim pot will be used to set the “articulation” of the right hand sensor (see the Reference Manual for details). Place the blue trim pot in its place on the board as in the picture. Bend the leads on the back and solder them in place. Clip the leads. 12.
  • Page 25 b. Solder the pots. When soldering do not use too much heat. If you cannot move quickly with your iron, solder one pin on each pot sequentially. This will allow each pot to cool before you solder its next leg (67). Make sure all 5 pins of each pot are soldered. Don’t bother clipping the short leads.
  • Page 26 15. MIDI IN Jack (P3): Press it snug to the board. Double check it is flat against the board and then solder it in (77-79). 16. Power Light (LED): a. Place the LED in the LED standoff (part# ). Pass the leads in through the two small ST-60-10 holes in the capped end of the standoff, and out the open end (80,81).
  • Page 27 b. The LED is installed on the PCB in the spot marked LED. The LED, being a diode, is polarized and must be installed in the correct orientation. If you get it backwards, the light won’t work. The long lead goes into the hole with the square pad. Make sure the standoff is standing straight up.
  • Page 28 b. Cut the wire leads to 3-3/16“ (80mm) (87). Strip 1/8” (3mm) insulation off the ends. Gently twist the tiny strands of copper wire together. Tin the ends of the wires with your soldering iron (88). c. Gently twist the red and black wires together (89) Thread the twisted pair of wires through the hole in the PCB.
  • Page 29 Solder these wires on the component side (93). 18. Serial Number Label (Part #PL-10-90): Clean the PCB with rubbing alcohol to remove fingerprints and solder residue. Apply the serial number sticker (95). Rub it down thoroughly. You will need this number if you request assistance or service. 19.
  • Page 30 b. Place the display in the headers (98,99). When you turn your Altura on, if some of the segments don’t light up on your display it probably means some of the pins should be bent a bit more. 20. Distance Sensing Modules: The distance sensors are connected to the PCB via the 4-wire ribbon cables (Part#CB-06-10).
  • Page 31 d. Now plug in the other end of each ribbon cable to the “Left Sensor” and “Right Sensor” headers on the PCB. Make sure that the ribbon cable is not twisted and is installed just like in the picture (107). The two ridges on the female header should be facing toward the interior of the board.
  • Page 32 Altura Reference Manual. Congratulations! Your Altura Theremin MIDI Controller is complete, except for the cabinet. I know you are probably eager to control your Macchiato Mini-Synth or other MIDI devices, so open up the “Altura Quick-Start Guide”...

  • Page 33: Making A Cabinet

    Your Altura wants a cabinet and you have some options: make a cabinet from cardstock or a cereal box, or get an acrylic cabinet kit from Zeppelin Design Labs. In the future we will publish CAD models that you can download and use to 3D-print your own case. To stay informed, sign up for our newsletter at www.zeppelindesignlabs.com.
  • Page 34 2. Flatten your cereal box, if that is what you are using. (Use a large box.) Cut the box open along its glued seam (4). 3. Glue the template temporarily to the BACK of your material (the INSIDE of your cabinet.) Use rubber cement (5, 6).
  • Page 35 4. Cut out the template. Using sharp scissors, or a metal ruler and an X-Acto knife, carefully cut out the perimeter of the template (9). Additionally, snip along every solid line near tabs D, E, & L (10). 5. Cut slits in Tabs A & K. Carefully cut along the solid lines with the tip of your blade (12). 6.
  • Page 36 c. Cut out a total of eight holes, four big and four small, from two tabs G. Cut the big holes to the outside of the mark; cut the little holes to the inside (15,16). 7. Score the fold lines. Use your ruler and the tip of a butter knife to carefully score every dotted fold line (17, 18).
  • Page 37 10. Fold and glue the hems. The four tabs C & H are hems, meaning they are to be folded over flat and glued down. Pre-crease them sharply (21), burnishing the fold with your butter knife. Apply rubber cement, following directions on the jar for the strongest bond (22). Fold the tabs flat and burnish again (23).
  • Page 38 d. Push two pins down through the two pinholes in the label, and pass them through the corresponding holes in the card stock (27a,27b). e. With the label backing still in place, neatly settle the label onto the card stock. Securely hold down one end of the label with binder clips (29).
  • Page 39 g. Remove the binder clips; remove the last of the backing (32); stick the label onto the cabinet (33). If your card stock has a textured surface, you may need to warm the sticker with a hair dryer and burnish it down thoroughly. 12.
  • Page 40 b. Very carefully bend Tabs A & K up to 90 degrees. A clear slot should open up where you cut the slits. If necessary, use the tip of your knife to clean out and open up the slots (38,39). 14.
  • Page 41 15. Form up the front of the box: a. Apply glue to the mating faces of Tabs E, F, G & J at the front corners of the box (44). b. Form the front-left corner. Burnish the connection thoroughly with your fingers or the butter knife.
  • Page 42 c. Repeat for the other sonar assembly (50, 51). 17. Install the PCB: a. Fish the ribbon cables out of the cabinet and drape them over the sides. b. If desired, pop in a 9V battery. Gently fit the PCB into the cabinet (52). c.
  • Page 43 That’s It!! Your Altura Theremin MIDI Controller is all done. Check out the Quick Start Guide to get playing fast. When you are ready to go deeper and become an expert thereminist, continue on to the Reference...

  • Page 44: Acrylic Cabinet Kit

    ACRYLIC CABINET KIT Zeppelin Design Labs offers a nifty black acrylic cabinet kit. It is sleek, rugged, and quick and easy to assemble. WHAT YOU WILL NEED 1. A scrap of plywood or particle board for a work surface 1. X-Acto knife or other sharp hobby knife 2.
  • Page 45 Let’s Begin! 1. Your kit parts come with a paper film on both sides. Lay out the parts as shown (1) to familiarize yourself with their names and orientation. You are looking at the inside surfaces, as if we unfolded a completed cabinet. • Be careful to orient the BOTTOM correctly! Notice two holes are farther from the edge than the other two.
  • Page 46 3. Dry fit the rest of the cabinet. Place the FRONT, BACK and two SENSOR MOUNTS in place. Notice the SENSOR MOUNTs have two little divots in one face for holding magnets. This faces up. Concentrate on achieving a nice tight joint where the parts all come together. Do not worry about how well the top surfaces align;...
  • Page 47 5. Install the SENSOR MOUNTS: a. Dry fit the SENSOR MOUNTs again. Make sure their magnet-divots are facing up. Practice making the best joint possible between the MOUNT and the SIDE (10). Peel back any paper from along the edges. b.
  • Page 48 d. Repeat for the other three divots (14). PLACE ALL FOUR MAGNETS MARKED-SIDE-UP!! Set the LID aside, far from the other magnets, until the glue cures THOROUGHLY, an hour for SuperGlue and two or three for acrylic cement. If the LID magnets attach themselves to anything too soon, they will probably pull themselves out of the glue bed! e.
  • Page 49 7. Cut out the Labels a. Use a knife and straight edge to cut out the main control panel label. Cut around the outside of the white line (17) b. Cut out the rectangle for the 3-digit display. Cut to the inside of the white line (18). c.
  • Page 50 e. Cut out the rest of the stickers. 8. Install the Sensors. a. Unplug the ribbon cables from the PCB. Install a sensor into the cabinet, with the ribbon cable directed downward (25). b. Use a #2 Philips screw driver and two coarse-thread M3x10 screws (part #FA-64-30) to install the sensor into the cabinet (26).
  • Page 51 9. Install the PCB. a. Pull the two ribbon cables up and out of the cabinet. Stick the left end of the PCB down into the cabinet under the ribbon cable (28). b. Depress the ON/OFF switch and pop the right end of the PCB down into the cabinet, underneath the ribbon.The PCB should pop into place when the ON/OFF switch finds its hole (29).
  • Page 52 10. Apply the Labels. a. If all the magnet glue is thoroughly cured, place the LID on top of the cabinet. (34). b. Place the label onto the lid. Settle it over the LED, the 3-digit display, and the seven pots (35) and tape it to the lid along one side.
  • Page 53 e. Smooth down the label (40). Apply the information labels to the bottom of the Altura, or to the front if you prefer, for ready reference (41). Add the “ping” stickers to the ends of the cabinets. Add a pinstripr or two to taste, and your Altura is done!! (43).