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Summary of Contents for Honnor Marine DRASCOMBE 1979
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DRASCOMBE OWNER'S HANDBOOK 1979 How to get the best from your boat Original for...
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THE DRASCOMBE FLOTILLA AN INTRODUCTION BY THE DESIGNER Contrary to popular belief, boats of the “Drascombe“ flotilla were not designed to appeal in the market for nostalgic reasons. It all started when I had sold my boat-building concern in 1964 and had retired to a remote farmstead on the top of Dartmoor.
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but the clamour for some shelter led to the “Cruiser“ version coming out in 1971. There followed in 1972 the 15ft. 6in. Dabber basically a double-ender with the upper two planks being allowed to flare away to form a V-shaped transom. The balanced hull form, vee‘d at both ends, needs only a shallow rudder hung on the transom.
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SCAFFIE PEAK GAFF (YARD) MAST BAND DRASCOMBE SCAFFIE HALLYARD THROAT MAINSAIL STANDING LUG REEF CRINGLES REEF POINTS MAINSHEET TACK CLEW FOOT TILLER Fig. 1.: the rigged Scaffie showing the principal parts Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is fitted near the bottom of the stern-post and may be reached by lifting the central floorboard.
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360 degrees for reverse some careful adjustment may be needed to avoid touching a gunwale. If pushing the boat oft a trailer, secure a line to the mooring cleat and hold on to it! Rigging tor Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while afloat, if necessary.
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However, it is quite useful even when sailing since it limits the movement of the tiller should it be accidentally let go. BOWLINE OVERHAND KNOT HALF HITCH CLOVE HITCH Fig. 2.: some useful knots Fig. 3.: Paralls are made up by threading the beads on light line with a knot between each.
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DABBER PEAK GAFF (YARD) DRASCOMBE DABBER HALLYARD THROAT HEAD MAINSAIL STANDING LUG REEF REEF POINTS CRINGLE MIZZEN MAINSHEET FOOT JIB SHEETS DOWN- HAUL LANYARDS CENTREPLATE Fig. 4.: The rigged Dabber showing the principal parts Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is in the after locker.
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Pick up the mast and hold it vertically in the boat with the forestay lug on the mastband facing forward. Raise it and lower it straight down through the hole in the thwart, placing the heel firmly in its socket. To set up the shrouds take one side and pass several turns of the lanyard through the U-bolt fairlead which is fitted on the side bench.
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Temporarily attach the other end to make certain it does not vanish up through the masthead sheave. Loosely attach the yard to the mast with the parall beads on their short length of line (Fig.13). Hoist the sail up quickly to the masthead, tensioning the luff to avoid a poke in the eye from the yard as it goes up! Belay the halyard on its belaying pin and then pull down on the tack and cleat underneath the thwart.
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PEAK GAFF (YARD) PARALLS DRASCOMBE LUGGER ADJUSTER SWIVEL HEAD THROAT MAINSAIL GUNTER LUG MIZZEN MAINSHEET DRUM FOOT JIB SHEET PUMP Fig. 6.: The rigged Lugger showing the principal parts LUGGER Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is in the after locker.
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The head of the jib should be shackled to the swivel of the furling gear and the swivel attached to the jib forestay by means of the two multi-hole adjusting plates. Try about the middle of the adjustment first and arrive at the correct pair of holes by trial and error (Fig,14).
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second set is conveniently secured to the turns of the clove hitch which holds the halyard so that the yard lies an inch or two back from the mast. Further paralls are used to stop the luff from bowing away from the mast (Fig.
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OPEN LONGBOAT PEAK GAFF (YARD) ADJUSTER PARALLS DRASCOMBE OPEN LONGBOAT THROAT ALLOY ROLLER MAINSAIL (GUNTER LUG) GENOA JIB MIZZEN MAINSHEET FOOT SHROUD JIB SHEET PUMP STANDARD RUDDER Fig. 7.: The rigged Longboat showing the principal parts Preparing to Launch. The screw bung to drain out bilge water is in the after locker.
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To step the mast have it lying in the boat with its heel under the mast thwart and secure one end of the main halyard to the mooring cleat. Lift the mast, insert the heel in its step and raise until it fits into the half-round notch in the thwart. Take up the slack in the halyard and secure it to a belaying pin.
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Further paralls are used to stop the luff from bowing away from the mast (Fig. 7). It is important that they are adjusted in length to hold the luff and head in a fair continuous line and that they do not hold the luff too tightly to the mast. Paralls are made up by threading the ‘beads“...
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COASTER GAFF (YARD) PEAK MASTBAND ADJUSTER DRASCOMBE COASTER ALLOY ROLLER THROAT MAINSAIL (GUNTER LUG) PARALLS GENOA JIB MIZZEN MAINSHEET FOOT JIB SHEET MOTOR MOUNT TILLER TWIN PUMPS W.C. KICK-UP RUDDER Fig. 8.: The rigged Coaster showing the principal parts Preparing to Launch. No drainage bung is fitted. If you have an outboard motor in the well check that it is centred on its mount and that the screw clamps are done up tightly.
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To step the mast have it lying across the cabin top and cockpit with the heel adjacent to the tabernacle. It helps to have someone in the cockpit to hold the head up until the spar is roughly horizontal but this is not essential. Making sure that the forestay is on top, line up the two black bullseyes on the aft face with the holes in the tabernacle and secure with the pin right through.
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conveniently secured to the turns of the clove hitch witch holds the halyard so that the yard lies an inch or two back from the mast. Further paralls are used to stop the luff from bowing away from the mast (Fig.
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DRIFTER GAFF (YARD) ADJUSTER PEAK PARALLS DRASCOMBE DRIFTER THROAT ALLOY ROLLER MAINSAIL (GUNTER LUG) GENOA JIB TENT MIZZEN MAINSHEET TABERNACLE FOOT JIB SHEET WINCH COMPASS GALLEY FUEL PUMP BUNK W.C. Fig. 9.: The rigged Drifter showing the principal parts Rigging for Sailing. Most of the preparation for sailing is done most conveniently before launching but it can be done from inside the boat while afloat if necessary.
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the bolt right through. Raise the mast to vertical and attach the forestay fitting at the lower end of the roller jib spar to the stemhead. Take a turn or two of the lanyards from the shrouds through the U-bolt fairleads which are fitted on the side decks, to avoid excessive side strain on the tabernacle.
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head in a fair continuous line and that they do not hold the luff too tightly to the mast. Paralls should pass outside the fall of the main halyard. Paralls are made tip by threading the “beads“ on to light line with an overhand knot between each and a retaining knot at the ends (Fig.
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Fig. 10 Lugger showing sails furled on spars. A jib protection sleeve is available to keep sunlight from bleaching the edges. SAILING HINTS The following notes point to some of the special characteristics of the Drascombe boats and assume a basic knowledge of sailing by the reader. Should anyone become a Drascombe owner with no knowledge of sailing they would, before setting out on their own, be well advised to take a short course at a sailing school or from a knowledgeable friend.
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make sternway it is essential to let go the mizzen sheet quickly to give the rudder a chance to swing the stern one way or the other. You will almost never get in irons if you take care to always sheet the jib smartly home on the new tack while the boat still has way on.
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OUTBOARD MOTORS The Dabber, Lugger and Longboats have all been designed for outboard motors and have sturdy motor mounts fitted. A prime consideration has been the need to facilitate simple maintenance such as plug changing and propeller clearing from safe positions within the bulwarks. This called for trunk mounting but care also have to be taken to cut out the excessive drag sometimes association with outboards in trunks.
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Scaffie 1 ½ to 3 h.p Dabber 2 to 4 h.p Lugger 4 to 6 h.p Longboat 6 to 8 h.p Coaster 6 to 8 h.p Drifter 8 to 10 h.p INBOARD ENGINE The Drifter may be fitted with a Sabb 6 - 8 h.p. diesel engine in place of an outboard and in this case the fuel tank is fitted where the outboard well otherwise is.
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Finally we would stress that these are brief general comments based on use of the engines in Drascombe boats and the engine manufacturer‘s handbook supplied with the boat should be followed with care. BUOYANCY All boats in die range rely on expanded polystyrene foam to provide buoyancy in the swamped condition.
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Minor scratches will have no effect on durability, but severe scratching or abrasion which reveals the glass fibres should be dealt with. A coat of polyurethane paint will give protection but for best results the scratches should be filled and sandpapered flush before painting. For filling use a polyester paste or we can supply matching gel coat kits.
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TACK OF MAINSAIL HALYARD FIG. 12 The tack line is used to tighten the luff. In the Dabber FIG. 11 Marlin hitch, used for & Scaffie it is secured in a clam cleat lacing sails to spars beneath the thwart.
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FIG. 13 Dabber masthead arrangement FIG. 14 Lugger masthead arrangement. Longboat & Coaster are similar but have jib luff spars on continuous PARALL forestays with the adjusters BEADS at the masthead. FIG. 15 Method of securing shrouds to U-bolt fairleads on side-Decks by lanyards...
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FIG. 16 The Dabber mainsheet uses a rope horse and the sheet is led round the leeward cleat and then to the helmsman's hand DOUBLE BLOCK ON SAIL SINGLE BLOCK ON RING SLIDER CLAM CLEATS FIG. 17 Mainsheet arrangement used in Lugger and Longboat. The Drifter uses a very similar arrangement.
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