This manual is a guide for assembling the boat and stepping the mast and AHC takes no responsibility for damages caused while assembling the boat. If a problem or irregularity arises while assembling the boat, contact your local M32 representative.
The instructions in this manual are made with the intention of making owners safely put together, handle and use the boat for training and racing. The M32 is a high performance racing boat designed and dimensioned for inshore racing and should be used accordingly.
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M32 to extend the needs to be eased prior to the main- lifetime of the bolts and to avoid the sheet when depowering the sails.
UNLOAD TRAILER PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Trailer...
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TOOLS INCLUDED Ratchet spanner 19mm socket...
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UNLOAD TRAILER INSTRUCTIONS Make sure the handbrake his on. Unlock the handles so that the hulls can be folded down.
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Take the starboard hull down. Put on the trolleys. They are labeled forward, FWD, and aft, AFT. TIP! Make sure bolts are in good condition and store the spanner and bolts in the storage box in the front of the trailer.
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Use a 19 mm spanner to get the hull off the trailer arms. Take the port hull down. Put on the trolleys. They are labeled forward, FWD, and aft, AFT.
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Use a 19 mm spanner to get the hull off the trailer arms. Take off the cross beam to be able to open the hatch. TIP! You do not need to take off the mast to be able to open the hatch.
PLATFORM ASSEMBLY PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Main beam Furlingline Aft beam Override preventers 4x Traveler bolts (Incl. washer) Trampoline 8x Beam bolts...
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PLATFORM ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Position the two hulls, with the trampoline tracks and winches facing inwards, so that the beam beds line up. Place the main and aft beam in the beam beds. TIP! Make sure to clean the surfaces from grease rests and/or dirt. For any bumps or irregu- larities that are not coming off, use a 240 grid sandpaper.
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Grease and fasten the beam bolts using a 19 mm spanner. The bolts should be tightened to 40 Nm using a torque wrench. TIP! It can sometimes be a bit tricky to get all the holes to line up. To facilitate the assembly; start to line up one of the inner holes and tighten the beam bolt, leave it with a bit of play.
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Position the trampoline behind the boat with the side with two glass fibre rods facing forward and with the forward and aft seams are pointing against the main beam and aft beam respectively. Slide all the trampoline sliders into the tracks on both sides. To be able to get the front and back lashing into position, untie the sliders on the sides so that there is no tension on the trampoline.
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Fasten the trampoline by running the lashing as shown on the picture. Start with the lashing on the main beam and start from the middle and work out towards the hulls to get the tension of the net straight and to stretch the net as much as possible for good tension. For the aft beam lashing, start with making a loop in the middle of the lashing and then lash outwards from the middle.
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Tension the sliders on both sides. To prevent the rods from bre- aking, do not tight too hard the first round and tension every other slider. Then go over a second turn and tension the ones not tighte- ned. Then all sliders can be tensioned equally hard. Tensioning will have to be done prior each time of IMPORTANT! sailing since the lashing and net is stretching.
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Mount/check override protectors. Remember that with a loose tensioned trampoline the angle of the gennaker sheet going onto the winch will vary.
MAST ASSEMBLY PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Lower mast Spreaders Cunningham Main halyard Rotation Line Upper mast Loop halyard small Diamond stay upper Halyard lock (mast car) Gennaker halyard Diamond stay lower The diamond stays should be handled with care IMPORTANT! and kept secured in the bowsprit during transport.
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MAST ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Take the top section and line it up with the bottom section. Lubri- cate the joint and assemble the mast by sliding the top section onto the bottom section. TIP! Have one person at the bottom of the mast, one person holding the bottom section still at the stand closest to the joint and one person at the top of the mast.
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Lock the sections together with the six M6 bolts. Make sure to not over tight. Lube the mast track to decrease friction when hoisting the main sail. Connect a mouse line to the gennaker halyard and run it through the gennaker halyard box and then guide the halyard down the luff track.
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Remove the top sheave to insert the main halyard. Use a mouse line to guide the halyard down the luff track. If the halyard is new, connect the main halyard loop by first doing one half hitch with the loop in between and then one half hitch at the end of the halyard. Connect the main halyard loop by first doing one half hitch with the loop in between and then one half hitch at the end of the halyard.
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Run the halyard lock(mast car) to test the top mast lock, reef 1 and reef 2. Make sure the steel pin on the halyard lock(mast car) slide all the way into the grooves and that the rings on the steel pin have a bit of play between them and the mast tube.
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The diamond turnbuckle needs to be properly greased to function. It’s a good opportunity to clean and service the turnbuckle when the mast is disassembled. Unscrew and remove the bolt entirely, do not remove the hanger from the mast. Clean the bolt, bronze nut and washer.
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Attach the diamond stays starting from the top. Make sure the clevis pins are inserted so that the rings are facing towards the trail- ing edge to avoid the gennaker getting caught. Connect the top and bottom diamond stays to the spreaders and then finally connect the bottom diamond stays to the diamond turnbuckle.
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Measure the spreader angle by having a tensioned chock cord rest against the lower diamond and against the respective spreader tip. This measurement should be 190 mm +/- 5 mm. If the spreader angle is NOT as required, take the diamond tension off, adjust the spreader adjustments and repeat procedure until required angle is achieved.
MAST STEPPING PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Stay set Boom...
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TOOLS INCLUDED Stepping line Mast stepping block Rigging lines Brush Winch handle Grease Ruler Padding...
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MAST STEPPING INSTRUCTIONS Place the T-tang on the ground below the stay connection point in the mast. Do not connect to the mast yet. TIP! It is a good routine to always start with checking that the furling line is around the mast knob and not twisted.
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Lash the stays with at least 4 laps and tie off so that the load is evenly distributed, as shown in picture. The lashing length is approx- imately 400 mm measured from the stainless pin to the top of the friction ring on the stays.
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The aft stays are, during the mast stepping procedure, lashed to the main beam bolts on respective sides. The length should be app- roximately 250 mm from bolt to friction ring. Apply grease on the mast knob and into the mast foot.
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Place padding on the main beam on the port side of the mast knob. Then lift the mast and rest it on the padding with the rotation arm pointing to port. Hook the T-tang to the mast. Attach the boom to the mast and place it so that it rests on the port hull in front of the main beam.
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Run the rotation line. Run the hoisting block around the aft beam, on the starboard side of the traveler adjustment plate, approximately 150 mm from the plate. TIP! Make sure that the block will not scrape against the traveler plate.
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Run the stepping line trough the block, connect one end to the lower double boom loop with a bowline and put the other end through the override preventer and on the port deck winch and tie it off. Have as a routine to always check that the winch screw is tighte- ned to avoid the drum from coming off when stepping the mast.
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Attach the main halyard to the upper double boom loop with a bowline. Tighten the halyard and tie it off around the gooseneck with a bowline.
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If needed, adjust the hoisting line and/or main halyard so that the both lines are tensioned without slack and with the boom in the correct angle, as seen in picture. Connect rigging line around the boom, aft of the outhaul slider. Important to connect these so that the support lines cannot slide inwards or off the boom when stepping the rig.
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Raise the boom straight up and attach the starboard support line to the main beam bolt so that the boom will point straight up when the mast foot will be put on the mast knob. Rotate the mast so that the rotation arm is pointing upwards. Tie off the rotation line around the boom.
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Of the other two, one will grind and the other will tail the stepping line. These persons will sit on the M32 to ensure that the aft won’t lift when hoisting the mast.
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Start by lifting the mast foot onto the mast knob. TIP! A small ease of the stepping line will make it easier to get the mast into place. The person at the top of the mast will lift the top as high as pos- sible to get the mast top higher than the main beam to facilitate the hoisting.Start hoisting the mast by winching the stepping line.
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During the hoist keep an eye on/make sure: That the mast foot slides on the mast knob properly. To not get an override. That no one is standing directly under the mast. To steer the mast, using the forestays, so that the mast goes straight up.
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Move the side stays to the chain plate of the respective side, lash them with five laps and tension them. They should be lashed as the for stays, described in Point 3. The stepping line must be tied off properly before IMPORTANT! the side stays can be moved.
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Run the main halyard through the main halyard block on the starboard side of the mast foot. Make sure the halyard runs on the outside of the rotation arm.
BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Bowsprit Strut bolts (Incl. washers) Connection pin bowsprit Struts Locking pin strut...
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TOOLS INCLUDED 8mm allen socket Brush Torque wrench Grease Allen key set...
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BOWSPRIT ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Attach the bowsprit to the main beam with the bow sprit connec- tion pin and lock it off with the chock cord. Hoist the bowsprit using the gennaker halyard so that the end of the bowsprit is higher then where it will end up when connected to the struts.
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Connect the struts to the bowsprit by lowering the bowsprit and guide the struts into it. Put the strut pins in to lock the struts to the bowsprit and lock the pins with the chock cord.
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Tighten the strut bolts to 20 Nm using a torque wrench. Attach the furling line to the furler. It is recommended to have it crossed.
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Run the tack line through the clutch on the main beam and do a stop knot in the end. Attach top swivel to gennaker halyard.
RUDDER ASSEMBLY PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Starboard rudder Pins drop nose Port rudder Tiller bar (Incl. extensions) Rudder pins (Incl. locking bolts)
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RUDDER ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Line up rudder heads so that the rudder pins can be inserted. TIP! Keep cover on blade. Put the rudder pins in and tight the locking bolts with the locking nuts.
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Attach the rudder locking arms to the Dyneema locking loops. Connect the rudders to the the tiller bar using the supplied drop-nose pins.
RACK ASSEMBLY PARTS AND TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Port rack Starboard rack Rack bolts (Incl. Washers & Locking nuts)
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TOOLS INCLUDED Wrench Ratchet spanner 19mm socket...
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RACK ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS Start by identifying the starboard and port rack, as they are diffe- rent. The way to tell is that the two Dyneema lines running between the inner tube and the footrest should be on the forward end of the rack.
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Attach the tightening line to the main beam, tension the line in the aft beam and tie off. Remember to tie the racks to the side stays if racks are left upright.
SAILING PREPARATIONS PARTS PARTS INCLUDED 2x paddles 2x Capsize lines 2x mooring lines 2x Daggerboard stop line system Main sail loop Towline 3x Winch handles 4x Fenders 2x Safety knifes...
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SAILING PREPARATIONS INSTRUCTIONS Connect capsize lines by running them through them selves, around the main beam and from each side so that one always can be reached in case of a capsize. They should be connected so they are easy to use! Attach tow line around the main beam on the port side of the mast.
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Place the two supplied safety knifes, one under the bowsprit and second on the trampoline on the back side of the aft beam as shown I picture. Attach daggerboard stop line system with the loose ends tied off at the eye bolt on each side and the carabiners in a slider on the opposite side.
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The gennaker luff length should be 15,630 meter, measured bearing to bearing, with a tension of 40 Kg on the luff. Equip M32 with: - 3x winch handles - Main sail loop - 2x mooring line - 4x fenders - 2x paddles...
RIG SETTINGS TOOLS PARTS INCLUDED Ruler Spinlock Rig Sense RGS/0508...
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RIG SETTINGS INSTRUCTIONS Check rake by lining up the top of the knot on the main halyard parallel to the joint between the mast tube and the mast foot. When this is lined up, tie off the halyard around the mast winch. Mark measuring point 70 mm above the joint on the backside of the aft beam.
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Measuring the distance from the measuring mark on the aft beam to the top of the knot. This distance between mark and knot should be 480 mm +/- 5 mm. Measure the side stay tension using a Spinlock Rig Sense RGS/0508.
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Setting the rig if the rake is too far forward. Make sure that the rig is centered in the transverse direction, using the gennaker halyard. Lock the halyard off with the clutch and measure the distance between the stainless pin and a reference point on the halyard.
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If the side stay tension is above 300 Kg, ease off until desired tension is achieved. If the side stay tension is lower than 300 Kg, tension the lashing using the winch. TIP! To prevent damage to deck and lashing, use a soft shackle with friction ring so that the lashing does not run over the deck.
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Make sure that the side stay tension is 300 Kg on both side stays. Making changes to one side effects the other so it usually takes a couple of turns tensioning/easing off to get it right. Check rake as described in Check the rig. If correct, the rig is set for sailing and if not, start from point 1.
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Setting the rig if the rake is too far aft. Make sure that the rig is centred in the transverse direction, using the gennaker halyard. Lock the halyard off with the clutch and mea- sure the distance between the stainless pin and a reference point on the halyard.
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If the side stay tension is lower then 300 Kg, tension the side stay lashing using the winch. TIP! To prevent damage to deck and lashing, use a soft shackle with friction ring so that the lashing does not run over the deck. Make sure that the side stay tension is 300 Kg on both side stays.
MAIN HALYARD LOCK INSTRUCTIONS Prepare sail for hosting. Insert halyard lock(mast car) into the luff track. Connect main halyard, with the two half hitches facing away from the mast, to the locking arm on the halyard lock(mast car) by thread the small main halyard loop pass the two stainless steel rings on one side to allow the other side of the loop to be threaded.
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Hoisting the sail. Hoist the sail by man power. Do not put the halyard on any winch as this can increase the risk of damage mast, sail or halyard lock. Hoist past the lock you want to engage (top, reef 1 or reef 2) and keep tension when it is passed.
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If the sail does not lock. Make sure that there is no tension on the main halyard when try- ing to get the sail to lock. If the sail does not lock in 3 tries, take the sail all the way down. Make sure that the main halyard loop is correctly attached with the knot facing away from the mast and that the loop is outside the two inner rings on the locking arm.
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