Download
Share
Print this page
  1. Manuals
  2. Brands
  3. Chassisworks Manuals
  4. Chassis
  5. 7704
  6. Installation manual

Chassisworks 7704 Installation Manual

Bolt-on g-machine front clip 1978-81 camaro/firebird
Hide thumbs

Advertisement

Quick Links

Download this manual
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND THEM BEFORE DOING ANYTHING.
CALL CHASSISWORKS TECH SUPPORT (916) 388-0288 IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE.
INSTALLATION GUIDE
7704
Bolt-On g-Machine Front Clip
1978-81 Camaro/Firebird
Description: A-arm front clip bolt-on for 1978-81 Camaro/Firebird. Includes welded front frame clip, body mounts,
upper and lower A-arms, spindles, coil-over shock and springs,billet rack and pinion, billet rack and pinion mounts,
ties rod ends, disc brake kit, engine mounts, and transmission mount installation instructions.

Advertisement

loading

Summary of Contents for Chassisworks 7704

  • Page 1 READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND THEM BEFORE DOING ANYTHING. CALL CHASSISWORKS TECH SUPPORT (916) 388-0288 IF YOU NEED ASSISTANCE. INSTALLATION GUIDE 7704 Bolt-On g-Machine Front Clip 1978-81 Camaro/Firebird Description: A-arm front clip bolt-on for 1978-81 Camaro/Firebird. Includes welded front frame clip, body mounts, upper and lower A-arms, spindles, coil-over shock and springs,billet rack and pinion, billet rack and pinion mounts, ties rod ends, disc brake kit, engine mounts, and transmission mount installation instructions.
  • Page 2 INSTALLATION GUIDE 78-81 CAMAROS & FIREBIRDS Equipment List and Hardware List Installing Lower & Upper A-arms and Spindles Installing Steering Rack Front Suspension Alignment Installing Antiroll Bar Installing Shocks and Springs Installing Brakes Installing Engine Mounts and Mid Plate Installing Manual Transmission Removing Stock Front Clip Installing Bolt-On Frame Installing Transmission...
  • Page 3 Your schedule must be more intense and frequent than a regular OEM vehicle. Chris Alston's Chassisworks would appreciate any feedback regarding your experience during installation and use of this frame. If there are any accessories or options you would like to see us manufacture, please let our sales department know.
  • Page 4 Recommended Equipment List This list will give you a good idea of the necessary tools required to complete this installation. There will be additional items needed.  15/16” socket with 1/2” drive ratchet Hand Tools  Steel & plastic head hammers ...

  • Page 5: Disclaimer Of Warranty

    Buyer will not rely on CHASSISWORKS skill or judgment to select or furnish the proper part or equipment for their application. Buyer expressly affirms that they are relying upon their own skill and judgment to select and purchase suitable goods.
  • Page 6 Frame and Sheet Metal Hardware List #3097 HARDWARE BOX FOR CAMARO/FIREBIRD BOLT-ON FRAME PART DESCRIPTION WHERE USED 2052 Shim, Camaro clip body mount 2.5x.63x.10 Between floor and body bushings. 1248 Alignment pin 67-81 Camaro Aligns front clip. 3430 Button head allen 5/16-18 x 3/4” Caps clutch pivot holes in frame.
  • Page 7 Note: The photos in this installation guide were taken using a Installing Suspension 1967-69 Camaro. There may be slight differences from your application, but the assembly procedure is identical. In this section you will install all of the front suspension components and align the front-end geometry.
  • Page 8 The balljoint rubber boot is installed in the balljoint housing first. Because the boot fits tight in the housing, installing it before the balljoint is easier. Drop the boot into the machined bore in the balljoint housing. Work your way around the boot’s edge, pushing it down into the bore with your fingers.
  • Page 9 The balljoint is then screwed into the balljoint housing as far as possible by hand. Make absolutely sure that the thread starts straight. This is a little tricky. The threads on the balljoint are easy to cross thread. Use the balljoint wrench included with your kit to tighten the balljoint.
  • Page 10 Use a 5/8-18 tap to chase the threads in the upper A-arm. Clear any debris left in the threads. Use the same procedure to assemble the upper A-arm as the lower. First, install the balljoint boot into the balljoint housing. Next, apply a layer of anti-seize to the balljoint threads.
  • Page 11 Thread the balljoint in as far as possible by hand. Finish tightening the balljoint with the balljoint wrench until it is seated tight against the balljoint housing. Repeat this for the passenger side upper A-arm. Install the rod ends into the upper A-arms. To provide an initial alignment baseline, the jam nut should be threaded until there is 1- 1/16 inches of thread remaining past the jam...
  • Page 12 After the application of another dab of anti- seize, the rod ends are threaded into the A-arms, until the jam nuts are snug against the arm itself. This step must be done carefully because the upper and lower A-arm mounts are threaded and welded to the frame.
  • Page 13 Next, chase the threads in the lower A-arm mounts with the 5/8-18 tap and blowout any remaining particles. Now, apply some anti-seize to the threads of the pivot stud. Also put anti-seize inside the bore of the A-arm mounts. Insert one of the lower A-arm pivot studs and then run it in all the way to its stop, it should go in easy.
  • Page 14 When installing the lower A-arm pivot studs, be careful not to damage the threads. Tap the pivot stud into place with your hand. If the hand method does not work, you can use a plastic-tipped hammer to gently install the pivot stud. It is best to move the pivot stud a small amount at a time until the threads make contact.
  • Page 15 If you have to remove the lower A-arm pivot studs, use a piece of wood and a few taps with a hammer while turning the pivot stud counter-clockwise. The pivot stud will come out easily. After tightening the lower A-arm pivot studs, check to be sure the A-arm swings freely but snugly throughout its travel.
  • Page 16 A set screw is used to lock the A-arm pivot studs. The set screw locks on the groove machined into the pivot stud. Before installing the pivot stud set screws, apply a drop of Loctite™ thread sealing compound to the screws. Be careful not to get excess Loctite™...
  • Page 17 Next, install the shock simulator at the ride height position. Install the lower bolt first and then the upper. Installing the upper A-arm is similar to installing the lower A-arm. Slide the front rod end over the front mount first and then swivel the rear one into place.
  • Page 18 You are now going to install the dropped spindles. The "L" cast into the back of the spindles, does not designate "Left," it is the foundry mark. The best way to identify the driver and passenger side spindle is to remember the steering arm (shown with arrow) always goes toward the front of the car.
  • Page 19 Place the spindle over the lower balljoint and install the washer and castle nut. The upper A-arm is then lowered into position and secured to the spindle with another washer and castle nut. Tightened both upper and lower balljoint castle nuts. Insert the cotter pin through the hole in the balljoint.
  • Page 20 With the cotter pin installed, use pliers to fold the legs over the castle nut. One leg goes down the other over the top of the balljoint stud. Repeat the procedure for the upper A-arm. First tightening the castle nut. Install the cotter pin and fold the legs over as we did on the lower one.
  • Page 21 Installing Steering Rack Mounting the steering rack is next. Chase the threads in the rack-mounting bosses with a 1/2-13 tap before mounting the billet mounts. The rack-mounting bosses are factory welded to the frame. Use the 1/2-13 x 2” socket head allen and custom 1/2” lock washer to mount the lower half of the billet rack clamp to the mounting boss.
  • Page 22 Now repeat the procedure for the other billet rack mount. With the lower half of both rack mounts installed on the crossmember, the rack itself is set into position. One of the exclusive design features of our rack and mount is the ability to rotate the rack to provide any desired angle from the steering column to the rack input shaft.
  • Page 23 If additional clearance is needed between the pinion and the cross-member, you can raise the pinion up higher. A lower angle will be used to clear the side motor mount bracket. Rotate the rack to minimize the u- joint angle. Push the rack firmly into each mount.
  • Page 24 The first step in aligning the new A-arm front suspension is to center the rack in its travel. Placing a U-joint on the rack makes turning it easy. Turn the rack toward the passenger side of the car until it stops (full lock position). On the driver side, measure and record the distance from the rack mount to the end of the tie rod end.
  • Page 25 Next, turn the rack all the way to the driver side and record the measurement from the rack clamp to the end of the tie rod. In our example the length is 15-1/8 inches. To calculate how far back to move the rack to center it, use this formula: add the two lengths together and divide by two.
  • Page 26 Install the tie rod end in the steering arm. Hold it in place next to the tie rod and adjust the jam nut until it is against the tie rod end. Remove the tie rod end from the steering arm and thread it onto the tie rod until it contacts the jam nut.
  • Page 27 Loosely install the castle nut on the tie rod end. Make sure the spindle moves smoothly from full shock extension to full compression, as indicated by the holes in the shock simulator. Now, set the shock simulator in the ride height position before you start to check the suspension settings.
  • Page 28 First, check and record the camber and caster readings, they will be adjusted later. The caliper-mounting bosses are machined perpendicular to the spindle so they are an excellent place for the level. To check the camber, hold the level against the machined caliper mounting pads on the spindle.
  • Page 29 The adjustment for both caster and camber is made through the adjustable rod ends on the upper A-arms. Moving both rod ends out increases positive camber. To adjust caster, move the forward rod end out further than the rear. This increases positive caster. Adjust the upper A-arm rod ends until you have the camber set at zero, or 90 degrees on the digital level and...
  • Page 30 Next, set the bar level and tighten it down. Do this on both the driver and passenger sides. Using two tape measures, measure the outside width at the front and the rear of the tubes. The front dimension should be 1/8 to 3/16 less than the rear;...
  • Page 31 If rotating the tie rod end 360 degrees changes the toe-in too much, use the rack tie rod to make smaller adjust- ments. Put the tie rod end in the steering arm and snug the castle nut before adjusting. Use vise-grips to grab onto the tie rod and rotate it to adjust the length.
  • Page 32 Next, you can final assemble the tie rod ends. Start by installing the grease zerk fitting in the hole at the bottom. Install the rubber boot. Put the tie rod ends back into the steering arm. Tighten the castle nut and, install and bend the cotter pin like you did on the balljoints.
  • Page 33 Grease the tie rod end with a small grease gun. Add only enough grease until a small amount starts to come out from under the rubber boot. Grease the upper and lower balljoints. Install the zerk fittings and inject grease with a grease gun. Put only enough grease in to make the balljoint rubber boot bulge out on the side.
  • Page 34 The caps are held in place with the countersunk stainless steel allen screws provided. They screw into the hole where the grease zerk was just removed. Be sure to remove all grease from the threads in the balljoint and Loctite™ the countersunk allen head screw in place.
  • Page 35 To prevent the urethane bushings from squeaking in action, use the supplied silicone grease to coat all sides of the urethane bushing that contact a metal surface. A thin screwdriver can be used to smear it around inside the bushing. Take extra care not to get this grease all over, it’s very sticky.
  • Page 36 With both bushings on the bar, bring it up from under the car and set it in position. Center the bushings on the mounting pads welded to your frame. Center the antiroll bar in the frame by measuring from the side of the frame to the end of the bar on the driver and passenger sides.
  • Page 37 Slide the billet aluminum cap over the bushing and secure with the 3/8-16 x 2 1/2” socket head allen and locknuts provided. Put the urethane bushings into the upper antiroll-bar-link eyebolt. Coat the bushings with the silicone grease. Page 36 917704...
  • Page 38 Next, slide the link eyebolt onto the end of the antiroll bar. Shown here is the hardware used to attach the link eyebolt to the antiroll bar. Attach the link eyebolt to the antiroll bar. Place the internal tooth lock washer next to the head of the 3/8-16 x 3/4”...
  • Page 39 Insert the lower bushing assembly into the lower A-arm mount bracket. Grease the upper bushing and slide it and the other bushing washer over the bolt. Apply Loctite™ to the bolt. Push down on the antiroll bar and thread the bolt into the end of the link eyebolt.
  • Page 40 Use the T-handle Allen wrench to tighten the bolt from under the lower A-arm. Tighten only until the urethane bushing begins to crush. After finishing the antiroll bar installation, run the suspension through its travel full shock extension to full shock compression. Do this with the spindle turned full left, full right, and centered.
  • Page 41 Screw the spring seat adjuster onto the shock. The set screw locking ball allows the spring seat height to be adjusted in ½ turn increments and then locked once the desired spring height is set. This upper spring seat holds the spring in place at the top of the shock.
  • Page 42 Next, turn the shock over and tighten the spring seat against the spring. After the spring seat makes contact with the spring, turn it one-half of a revolution. This will add a small amount of preload to the coil spring. Tighten the set screw locking ball with an allen wrench.
  • Page 43 Install the lower shock spud first. Insert the male shock spud from the front of the car into the lower A-arm. Insert the female part of the spud from the back, it acts as the nut. Use Loctite™ to secure threads. Using the spindle shaft as a handle, line up the top eye of the shock in the upper mount and slide the male spud in.
  • Page 44 Installing Brakes The 11 3/4 inch vented rotors are directional. The “P” machined on the inside identifies the passenger side rotor. There is a "D" on the driver side rotor. These brakes require at least a 15” diameter wheel; however, even some 15” wheels may not clear.
  • Page 45 12-point bolts are 2 1/4 inches long. If you need a longer wheel stud for thicker wheels, 3-inch long studs are available from Chassisworks. Tighten the studs from the backside of the assembly. You're ready to install the inner wheel bearing and seal.
  • Page 46 After the bearing is packed, drop it in the bearing race. The inner wheel bearing seal is then positioned on the hub. Place the hub on a wood surface before installing the seal. Using a hammer and seal installer, drive the seal into the hub making sure it's fully seated.
  • Page 47 Pack the outer wheel bearing as you did the inner one. Slide the bearing into the race. Slide the washer over the spindle shaft and install the castle nut. To fully seat the bearings, tighten the castle nut to 12 lb-ft while turning the rotor assembly forward by hand.
  • Page 48 After the wheel bearings are tight, insert the cotter pin through the castle nut and the hole in the end of the spindle shaft. Do not tighten the castle nut when aligning the cotter pin; only loosen it. Use the same procedure you used on the balljoints to fold the cotter pin legs.
  • Page 49 Next, install the Wilwood brake calipers. Start by inserting the brake pads into the caliper, one on each side of the rotor slot with the metal backing toward the pistons. Slide the caliper with the pads installed over the rotor and the caliper mounting pads on the spindle.
  • Page 50 Finally, bolt your wheel and tire on the hub and check again to be sure there is at least 1/4” clearance between the caliper and the wheel. There are differences in wheel manufacturer’s tolerances. Make sure your wheel turns freely. Do not use positive offset wheels with this suspension system.
  • Page 51 Use a 3/8” wrench to tighten the brake line adapter fitting. The hose end of the fitting should point toward the lower caliper- mounting bolt when tight. Remember, the caliper is aluminum and the fitting is steel. Do not over tighten and strip the threads in the caliper.
  • Page 52 Attach the tab to the frame rail with the stainless steel 10-32 x 3/8” button head and 3/16 high collar lockwasher provided. Use an allen wrench to tighten the button head. Insert the brake line through the tab and tighten using one wrench to hold the brake line and another to tighten the jam nut.
  • Page 53 Move the spindle to full right lock, check the brake line for any binding. Move the shock simulator to the full extension setting, turn the spindle to full right lock position. Check the brake to be sure it is not stretched. Turn the spindle to the full left lock position;...
  • Page 54 There are two types of motor mounts available; motor plates, and side mounts. The Chassisworks motor plates are available for small and big block Chevy engines. They are shipped completely machined and ready to bolt in. They...
  • Page 55 Once both billet mounts are installed, you can install the mid plate. Bolt the automatic transmission mid plate to the back of the engine block. Chassisworks manufactures different automatic mid plates for use with Chevrolet and Pontiac V8. Page 54...
  • Page 56 Installation of a manual transmission and Lakewood bell housing will require the mid plate shown here. Chassisworks manufactures different mid plates for Chevrolet and Pontiac V8. Set the engine in place lining up the billet motor mounts with the frame motor mount brackets.
  • Page 57 These optional stainless steel "spuds" will be used to fasten the billet motor mount to the frame. If you did not purchase the spuds, use the stainless steel 1/2-13 x 3 1/2 inch socket head allens and locknuts provided in the billet motor mount kit (shown in upper left).
  • Page 58 Use the stainless steel 3/8-16 x 1 1/4 inch button head allens, flat washers and locknuts to attach the mid plate to the mid plate mount brackets. Put a flat washer against the button head and another one on before the locknut. Do not final tighten these until you have the driver and passenger side button head allens installed.
  • Page 59 Pontiac engines. The block saver mid plate uses all the standard Lakewood hardware to attach to the engine. The block saver mid plate attaches to the Chassisworks frame the same as the automatic transmission mid plate. Page 58 917704...
  • Page 60 Install the clutch linkage torsion shaft and linkage as in the stock car. Some blocks do not have a pivot ball hole for the other end of the torsion shaft. Chassisworks has an optional bracket to solve this problem. Chassisworks currently manufactures transmission crossmembers for most applications.
  • Page 61 Item 5916-F20-03 Turbo 400, 200-4R, 4L65E crossmembers must be installed so the transmission mount surface slopes down hill to the rear of the car. To determine which way the crossmember installs, place a straight edge on the transmission-mounting pad to determine its slope.
  • Page 62 These two photos show an engine and Richmond 6 speed installed. Removing Stock Front Clip The first step is to remove the hood, engine and transmission. This will make it easier to see and work in the engine compartment. It is also important that the gas tank is empty so fuel cannot siphon out when the fuel line is disconnected.
  • Page 63 After you remove the engine, place your vehicle on jack stands. The jack stands must be supported by a level concrete surface at least as large as the car. Put two stands under the rocker panels about 4” in front of the front door. Put two stands under the rear axle.
  • Page 64 This is a view of the firewall before we removed components. This is a view of the driver side inner fender panel before we removed any components. Your car should look like this with the hood removed and positioned on four jack stands before you go any further.
  • Page 65 Use vise grip pliers and an end wrench to disconnect the parking brake adjuster mechanism. Use vise grip pliers to remove the spring clip from the parking brake cable adjuster. Remove the parking brake cable from the frame on the driver side. Page 64 917704...
  • Page 66 Disconnect the steering column from the rag joint using end wrenches. Use a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin that holds the transmission linkage to the steering column lever. Disconnect the transmission linkage bracket from the frame so it won’t hang up on something when you slide the frame out from under the car.
  • Page 67 Disconnect the clamps that attach the fuel line to the frame. Remember for safety, the gas tank needs to be empty. Use a piece of string to tie the fuel line up out of the way. Also, disconnect the ground strap from the frame. Using a brake line (flare nut) wrench, disconnect both the driver and passenger front brake lines from the metering block...
  • Page 68 Disconnect the brake line clamp by the steering box. From under the floor, disconnect both brake line clamps on the outside of the driver side frame rail. Remove the battery tray for easier access to the front frame bolts. 917704 Page 67...
  • Page 69 Remove the bolts that attach the ends of the bumper to the body. Remove the bolts that attach the bumper to the frame bracket. Remove the bumper brackets from the frame. Page 68 917704...
  • Page 70 Remove the bolts that attach the radiator core support to the frame. Slide a floor jack under the front clip and center it on the drag link, this is the best balance point. Raise the jack so it has slight pressure on the drag link to hold the frame up.
  • Page 71 You need three people; one to operate the jack; one to steady the frame by holding on to the spindle through the wheel well; and the third person will remove the frame bolts at the firewall. Remove the center frame mount bolts. Do not get under the car in case the frame falls.
  • Page 72 Only slide the frame forward enough to disconnect the rag joint. The front frame horn to the front-end sheet metal’s lower valance. Clearance is minimal; do not bend the lower valance with the frame horn. Lower the frame until the rag joint is below the steering column and then push the frame rearward about 6”...
  • Page 73 Lower the clip to the ground and pull it out toward the front of the car. Installing Bolt-On Frame These are the Chassisworks provided frame alignment pins. This photo shows the passenger side frame mounting location at the firewall. Notice the slotted hole beside the bolt hole for the body mount.
  • Page 74 This photo shows the driver side frame mounting location at the firewall. Notice that it’s alignment pinhole is round. These are the components of the urethane bushing set for one side of the car. They are laid out how they are installed with the left side toward the front on the car.
  • Page 75 This is the correct orientation of the front urethane body bushings at the radiator core support. This is the correct orientation of the middle urethane body bushings at the firewall. Page 74 917704...
  • Page 76 The alignment pins slide up through the 5/8” hole beside the middle body mount. This is the correct orientation of the urethane body bushings at the rear of the frame where it mounts under the seats. 917704 Page 75...
  • Page 77 Place the top part of the mid and rear urethane body mounts into their mounts before the next step. Place the dropped crossmember portion of the new Chassisworks frame clip on the floor jack and slide it under the car. Page 76 917704...
  • Page 78 Jack the clip up with the frame on a slight angle. The front of the clip needs to be above the rear. This will allow you to slide it up above the valance. Be careful not to bend the valance. Once the front of the frame is above the valance, jack the frame up so it is flat against its middle and rear body mounts.
  • Page 79 Install the lower half of the rear urethane body mount but do not tighten it. Leave the bolt loose. Install the lower half of the middle urethane body mount. Again, do not tighten it. Leave the bolt loose. Installing The Transmission Crossmember Before we align the frame, install the transmission crossmember.
  • Page 80 The transmission crossmember is designed to raise up into the pocket in the floor. This provides extra exhaust clearance. The transmission crossmember may have to be slapped to get it into location. A firm slap with the palm of your hand will usually do the trick.
  • Page 81 Measure from the lip on the rocker panel to the side of the frame clip at the front of the rocker panel and the rear of the frame. Bump the frame around until the frame is parallel with the rocker panel on each side and the same distance from the frame to the rocker lip on each side.
  • Page 82 Retorque all body mounts after 1000 miles of use. Reinstalling Factory Components to Frame Reinstall the parking brake cable into the Chassisworks frame using the stock spring clip. 917704 Page 81...
  • Page 83 Attach the stock hook rod to the passenger side of the Chassisworks frame and stock parking brake cable. Adjust the parking brake mechanism for correct operation. Drill two 1/4” holes in the driver side of the frame to attach the brake line clamps.
  • Page 84 Bend the rear brake line under the master cylinder so it’s clamp sits on top of the frame where shown and attach it to the frame with it’s stock 5/16 self-tapping screw. If you are using an automatic transmission, install three 5/16” button head screws to close the holes where the clutch linkage torsion shaft bracket goes.
  • Page 85 Install two 1/2” self-locking set screws in the spare holes for the bumper mount in the frame horn. Do this for each side. Reinstall the bumper brackets using the stock hardware in the correct holes. Reinstall the bumper and correctly align it with the body.
  • Page 86 The first step to installing the steering shaft is to bolt the 1” DD shaft u-joint to the factory steering column where the rag joint attached. Just like the factory stock column, the flanged side of the u-joint has a 5/16” and a 3/8”...
  • Page 87 Slide the splined end of the u-joint onto the rack input shaft and tighten the set screws into the groove in the shaft. Hold the 3/4” DD lower end of the shaft up against the u-joint. Line them both up straight and parallel to each other.
  • Page 88 To install the 3/4” DD shaft, you will have to remove the rack clamps to push the rack forward. Use a 1/4” drill to make a dimple on the 3/4” DD shaft for the set screws. Repeat the dimple procedure for the top u- joint.
  • Page 89 Paint the U-joints and steering column shaft to prevent rusting. Installing Fender Flaps The Chassisworks splash flaps replace the factory rubber flaps. Use a flat blade screw driver and hammer to open up the staples.
  • Page 90 Use a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the staples. Use a wire brush to remove any crud from the inside of the fender well. Mark the center of the opening on the inner fender panel. 917704 Page 89...
  • Page 91 Drill a 1/8” hole centered in the opening on the flat of the inner fender panel. Drill a total of 10 holes in the fender panel on 2-1/2” centers. Lay the splash boot on top of the upper A-arm and even with the formed ledge in the fender panel.
  • Page 92 Hold a 1x2 board across the top of the splash boot to hold the boot flush while drilling. Use the top row of holes for a drill guide and drill the flap to match. Move the splash flap to the tire side of the fender panel.
  • Page 93 Drill the remaining rivet holes starting from the top. Use the end of your 1x2 held against the splash flap from the tire side for a backup tool to drill the rivet holes. Make sure the flap sits flush against the fender panel.
  • Page 94 Repeat the procedure for the driver side. Note: The Nova inner fender panel opening is shaped a little different than the Camaro. The Chassisworks splash flap is designed to fit both cars. The rivet positions will be slightly different, however, the procedures are the same.
  • Page 95 30 days of the purchase date for credit of the purchase price only. The returned parts must be in new condition (no scratches, dents or dings). Chassisworks reserves the right to return to the customer any header kit that is returned in substandard condition.
  • Page 96 It is best to install the headers in the frame and lower the engine over them. Engine installation is at least a three-person job. One on the hoist, and one on each side holding the headers. After the headers and engine are installed, you will have to reinstall the steering column.
  • Page 97 Installing Subframe Connectors The subframe connector options include: 5603-20 – For OEM rear frame rails 5603-21 – For Chassisworks rear frame rails 5602-32 – Bolt-in center support (not shown) For this installation, we have the car on our lift. You can install them with the car on jack stands under the front and rear of the rocker panels.
  • Page 98 This is the driver side front leaf spring hanger. You will need to loosen it in order to get the rear on the subframe connector under the inside two bolts. Unbolting the forward leaf spring hanger should never be done with an impact wrench.
  • Page 99 Once you have all the bolts removed, use a small pry bar to separate the spring hanger from the unibody frame rail and floor. Slide the driver side subframe connector over the back of the bosses on the front- clip frame rail. Once you have it started over the boss, slide it as far forward as you can.
  • Page 100 You will need two people for this step. Let the rear end housing down enough so the front spring hanger drops about 1/2 inch away from the body. Have one person pull down on the front of the spring while the other person works the connector into place between the spring hanger and the car’s body.
  • Page 101 The spring clips can be just as tricky to reinstall as they were to get out. Use a bent-tip tool or your finger on the top of the bolt to hold it while starting the threads of the bolt. The subframe connector inner mounting bracket has been positioned so that the head of the bolt winds up under the rear seat.
  • Page 102 Remove the door sill plates to get at the carpet. The carpet needs to be pulled back before drilling the hole through the floor from the bottom of the car. Use a 3/8 inch diameter bit to drill a hole through the floor, using the hole in the subframe connector as a guide.
  • Page 103 Slide a 3/8 inch flat washer over the bolt and secure with a 3/8-24 locknut. Tighten all three bolts at the rear spring hanger before going to the next step. Slide the two clamping brackets over the subframe connector. These are used to provide a firm attachment between the subframe boss and the subframe connector.
  • Page 104 Reattach the shock absorber, then move on to the passenger side of the car to repeat the process. With the bolt-on frame clip and subframe connectors installed this is what your project should look like. 917704 Page...
  • Page 105 Page 104 917704...

  • Page 106: Warranty Notice

    In this connection, the user assumes all responsibility and risk. We reserve the right to change specifi cation without notice. Further, Chris Alston’s Chassisworks, Inc., makes NO GUARANTEE in reference to any specifi c class legality of any component.