Related Manuals for Norton Commando 1969
Summary of Contents for Norton Commando 1969
- Page 1 COMMANDO SERVICE NOTES COMPLETE WITH ELECTRIC START Text - Tim Stevens, John Hudson Editor -- Alan Osborn...
- Page 2 One of the most popular, the 750 Interstate 1973, with Combat engine, signified by black barrels. Photo credit: Motor Cycle...
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Page 3: Table Of Contents
Carburetor setting Carburetion The Norton Owners Club 1979. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any way or form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the Norton Owners Club. So there! ©... -
Page 4: Group
T.R.S. and Mr L. Emery being used, while not inconsiderable extra notes have been added by our President Mr. J. Hudson. Mr T. R. Stevens was Quality Engineer and then Service Engineer at Norton Villiers Andover 1970-74, he is at present lecturer in Motorcycle Engineering at Merton Technical College. - Page 5 THE MOST SIGNIFICANT CHANGES IN THE MANY COMMANDO MODELS Engine Nos. 126,125 FIRST COMMANDO, 17E(3 'G4. Silver tank, panels and frame-orange (!1 seat. Green blob on tank. 131,180 Now called FASTBACK, Conventional color scheme. Gusset below head-stock replaced by horizontal bracing tube (under tank).
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Page 6: Group
Everyone misses a very important point in Norton con rod bolts -as supplied they have a razor sharp edge on the underside of the head and this should be carefully filed off and the bolt rotated in lathe chuck or drilling machine and the head polished with emery tape. - Page 7 IDLER GEAR SPINDLE: The spindle for the idler gear (that's the one that is both sprocket and pinion) should be tight in the cases. If not, dry the cases off thoroughly and warm with a blowlamp before refitting the spindle with a drop or two of "Bearing fit"...
- Page 8 Atlas ratio (a bit more under a Combat head) but use Hepolite Atlas pistons and try to get those without the slot. It's not so critical with Atlas pistons because the combustion pressures are less and generally the chap who fits Atlas pistons doesn't go wailing about at 7,000 rpm all day. A final point about pistons early Commando pistons had a three piece oil control ring where the central hart was U shaped in cross section.
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Page 9: Groups 5
GROUP 2:- Barrels, gaskets and head parts CYLINDER BASE GASKET: This was deleted from Mk. I and II 850, plastic gasket such as Loctite, Hermetite RTV or similar silicone compound being used. A gasket was again introduced, part no. 0638 12, on the Mk. - Page 10 VALVE GUIDES: Everyone should know that the inlet valve guide must have an oil seal to help reduce oil consumption. The 750 guides are too thin and when fitted right, collapse inwards slightly and give a belt-mouthed condition from new. That's why the 850 guides are so much thicker, and they are also ground on the outside to give good finish and concentricity (Hence the circlip, instead of a flange).
- Page 11 it, (A.F, stands far American Fred, by the way, a fact first mentioned in the Vincent Owners magazine.) (I thought it stood for Awkward F----r!) ROCKER SPINDLES: The rocker spindles are fitted with the oil flats outwards -away from the holes in the rockers --because otherwise too much oil swamps the head.
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Page 12: Group
This can be cared by enlarging the hole if necessary to 5/16in (0.3125in=7.938mm, say 8.00mm) and inserting a thin sleeve of your own manufacture, or of Norton manufacture if you can get one. Stick the sleeve in with plastic gasket or the afore-mentioned sticky substance. The other cause is use of an incorrect (i.e. - Page 13 screws which have 4BA spanner size but the right 2BA threads (B.S.A. number 40.0683 ==Triumph E7680) being smaller you might remember not to heave so hard. Finally the points cover has a little hole which is to let oil/water out and therefore goes at the bottom. Boyer or RITA electronic ignition cures all! OIL PUMP: The oil pump takes a long time to wear out, but when the mains go it's a good idea to recondition it, as all those bits of bearing have to go through the oil pump on their way to the tank-full instructions are given for this operation in the workshop manual.
- Page 14 to use the later black plastic type. White plastic examples were used on the production racers; they are equally good. Watch out incidentally for Dunstall banjo bolts which have a restrictor to prevent over oiling- used in the days before inlet guide oil seals to reduce oil consumption. Remember that the head is oil cooled as well as air cooled.
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Page 15: Group
GROUP 4:- Crankcases, breathing and main bearings CRANKCASES: In comparison with the fairly clever design of the Norton head, the crankcases are well, not to put too blunt a point on it, unsophisticated. It has been said that they only serve to keep the oil in and they're not very good at that! Anyone who has read "Tuning for Speed"... - Page 16 Norton, or any other proper motorcycle, you will have to write out 100 times, "This is the Twentieth Century"). As well as salt water getting into stud threads, Gunk is another culprit; regular Gunk cleans all the oil and grease away so eventually they'll get water in and seize, barrel studs being a prime example.
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Page 17: Groups !4
-its way onto the AJS and Matchless heavyweight range, Before hat, Nortons had a box with similar gears and an oval horizontal cover; this is known as the Norton-Burman box and takes us back to about 1947. Before that even, almost identical gears were used in a box with an upright outer cover -the positive stop mechanism was in the upwards bulge and before the war this upwards extension had a separate lid of its own. - Page 18 19T on the gearbox (as was standard on all Norton Nortons from Model 50 to Atlas and Manx) the speed of the box would be increased without such a heavy journal load on -the bearings and tooth loading on the pinions themselves.
- Page 19 smooth; finish with a stone or emery. After a while the ball gets flats on it they are very cheap, so polish the operating lever and a new ball, and a nylon lined cable and you should have the clutch the envy of others (except Vincent Owners).
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Page 20: Group
The position and adjustment of the shims behind the clutch and alternator is all in the workshop manual, but they don't tell you about the exploding alternator rotor. Norton dealer Jean Souper at Mantgeron (near Paris---Jean being French, is a, feller!) has a row of exploded rotors in his workshop,;-there is over a yard of them stuck over the dour. - Page 21 In the meantime-keep an eye on your rotors, remember Lucas stuff is guaranteed for a year-by Lucas, not Norton, and don't buy any rotor not stamped with a W, Pt. No. 54202275. I've never seen the W but the welded rotor is also numbered 54201143 and is also recognized by the centre sleeve, half steel hall alloy, an welded one.
- Page 22 appeared, read on. The drum itself is made of case-hardened steel, and with many more splines than the centre so there is no tendency for the plain steel plates to notch into the drum The innermost friction surface on early clutches was a separate steel plate located by two tiny little roll-pins in blind holes in the back of the drum.
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Page 23: Group
GROUP 9:- Carburetors CARBURETTORS: The carbs themselves are the traditional Amal deal: they work quite well but don't last very long-the slides rattle about in the bodies, a fault exaggerated by the fact that the engine shakes about anyway. Viton (synthetic rubber) tipped needles with brass bodies are better in the float chamber than the nylon white ones originally fitted, but even so Amal will not guarantee that the carbs will not flood when left standing So always turn your petrol off so that you don't fill the engine up with the precious liquid-not only a waste of petrol but can also cause bent con-rods, blown head gaskets, and disastrous... -
Page 24: Engine Mountings
GROUP 10:- Engine mountings ENGINE MOUNTINGS: This is the part of the bike which sets the Commando apart from other machines, for although rubber engine mounts are used in all cars and bikes made by BMW, Sunbeam, Suzuki, MZ, Villiers and many others, nobody else had gone to such lengths to ensure that the swinging arm is mounted on the engine plates, thus avoiding the chain pull problem. - Page 25 grease (not ordinary grease-as it will attack the rubbers and cause them to swell, although I know of riders who use ordinary grease and it does not seem to do much harm. A fairly thin sticky grease is best. Vaseline a not a good lubricant (Not in this context anyway). Then surround the lot with one of the later type rubber gaiters each end, not the shiny PVC ones used on 750's.
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Page 26: Frame. Swinging Arm And Suspension
Commando for about half a milt, therefore I do not know the problem at first hand hill the following are facts that 1 have picked up from years of associating with Norton owners: A run down of the facts affecting Commando wobbles not covered by Mr. Steven's oration. All points on the Commando have to be set correctly the bike is critical to any maladjustments Tyres intuit be to the correct pressures, balanced. - Page 27 20 miles this side of Vienna you'll see an ash tree with a branch missing. The repair held till we got to the long suffering German Norton distributor in Darmstadt. An oversize spindle is available-Part No: 064077. It is 0.005in oversize (0.13mm) and by the time you find the hole is too big, five thou is usually about right although you may have to ream the centre of the cradle as the wear occurs mainly at the ends.
- Page 28 (With a ‘71 or later machine on its centre stand you could take out the front bolt on the machine itself as there is practically no weight on it so long as the head steady has not been removed). Screw this into the end of the spindle.
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Page 29: Footrest Plates
GROUP 12:- Footrest plates FOOTREST PLATES: The most over-engineered part of the machine-not that there is much competition for the honor. They are forged from aluminum alloy and are unbreakable, Even if the plates arc bent until one end touches the other they will not break. For Concours rebuilders the catalogue is not strictly accurate--as well as the spacers between the frame and the side-plates there are extra ;in washers on the 3/8in bolts. -
Page 30: The Oil Tank
GROUP 13:- The oil tank THE OIL TANK is not over engineered. The mounting rubbers fail regularly because: 1. They are under strain due to the mudguard fouling the hoses and connections. 2. They are rot oil proof. 3. They are usually fitted twisted. If they are left broken the oil tank can't fall out but as the tank flops about the strain falls on the bottom fixing which can split out of the tank bottom. -
Page 31: Group
The best thing to put in Norton Teles is Automatic Transmission Fluid, but if this allows too much topping then try Castrol Shockol or even the original "Castrolite". Don't use less than the recommended disposable plastic cupful in each side (160cc) or you'll get even more than your share of topping. -
Page 32: Rear Hub, Brake And Sprocket
locking ring will unscrew if the rotation of the wheel is reversed. Do it by all means, but make up some way of securely locking the bearing ring. There isn't much that can be done to prevent the inside pad wearing rapidly in wet weather. The factory did make a scraper effort to fit beneath the caliper but it made a vile noise and didn't work very well. -
Page 33: Handlebar Controls
Or use the bits oft a pre 1971 Commando, or even a proper Norton. Warning to all featherbed riders who try to use a Commando front brake cable because it's got a switch in or any other reason. -
Page 34: Exhaust Systems
GROUPS 19, 21-24, and 28:- Handlebars, side panels, front mudguard, seats, rear mudguard, tank and instruments All straight forward, no comments. GROUP 20:- Exhaust systems Not much to say about exhaust systems-I have already had a go about port threads. Don't use mutes in the straight through silencer ends, if they are brazed in file them out again even if it takes all weekend. -
Page 35: Addendum
COMMANDO SERVICE NOTES- MK III ADDENDUM These additional notes cover all models and the Mk III and have been put together by me from the experiences of the club members, so are perhaps not as exhaustive or full as the previous notes written by TRS. - Page 36 ENGINE MAIN BEARINGS: What again I hear you groan? A small point, quite often with the super-blend, the inner race, especially on the timing side, comes loose on the crankshaft; this does not seem to be detrimental in any way, so do not worry about it. The next time things are apart down there a blob of Retainer Loctite is recommended.
- Page 37 slightly larger mean radius. This may increase wear marginally but in any case the bronze plates wear immeasurably so the life will now drop to only a few million miles ... My fiber clutch plates have dune 100,000 miles and are not noticeably worn. Thick oil and antifriction additives promote clutch slip, so if any one is still using engine oil in the Primary Chain case then they should read page 12 again.
- Page 38 Sprag clutch inside engine sprocket and boss on large drive gear surfaces could do with fine emery (all emerys are fine! a spare joke) or "wet 'n dry" grade 600 to break up polish and give some grip. Starter Sprag Unit. problems encountered by tine member are that this unit will function for weeks or pack tip first time the starter is used and even if tile starter is not used.
- Page 39 THE PAWL SPRING: This is the first item to suspect if you attempt to change gear and the lever has no effect or apparent connection into the box. The spring quite often wears and breaks (carry a spare one) and when you replace it with a new one you will more than likely have it) 'set' the spring as follows to ensure a good gear change: with the outer gearbox cover in your hand and the lever mechanism and ratchet assembled the pawl spring must sit on its rest plate (part of gear lever stop plate) it must then either just touch or just clear the pawl with its double cranked leg downward.
- Page 40 GO-FASTER MODS, SILENCERS AND AIRBOXES As previously mentioned the black cap annular discharge silencers do not significantly reduce power, but they must be kept with the balanced exhaust pipes. If you want to fit earlier separate pipes then you must fit the earlier reverse cone silencers.
- Page 41 ISOLASTICS: The front Mk III units can he fitted to any/all of the earlier models but the centre tube has to be shortened so that both ends are the same length, preferably by machining (as opposed to hack saw) to keep the ends square. The rear Mk III unit is not really worth the effort and expense of fitting. The adjuster rods for the Isolastic have been known to rust up so a check-strip and grease would be advisable.
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Page 42: Some Tuning Tips
SOME TUNING TIPS FROM C. BRADDICK "DOUBLES" CAMSHAFT: This was definitely the most troublesome cam produced but probably the most powerful on sale to tile Public. The problem associated with it were: - 1. Overlap-this was so large that with the lightest over-revving (missed gear usually the.cause) the Valves touched each other and bent. - Page 43 CARBURETTORS: T he twin carb tuning does not go far enough! To ensure both sides lift together at precisely the same time use a mirror placed against the air filter, in place of the rubber unions. l hen by looking back from near the handlebars you can clearly see the sides. Yet another way to ensure that the slides lift together, once you have each carb set to give even tickover, is to remove the float bowls and main jets and watch the needles rise and fall.
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Page 44: Carburetion
The 220 or ex-works setting can he left alone. If you must fiddle then err on the larger, richer side. Now the needle jet and needle. This is about the most important on a Norton, especially as the needle jet has a very short life for accurate carburetion, often less than 10,000 miles. - Page 45 Further note, and explanations to the notes on page 28. When the Norton twin cylinder engine came about in 1949 we had monograde oils only, therefore the design took this into account. the oil lubricated the parts and helped with the cooling, especially the cylinder head. The dirt from Combustion would usually end up in the oil tank its sludge, to he re-circulated in varying degrees.
- Page 46 Keep polishing...
- Page 47 The Roadster again fitted with Combat motor. Interesting to compare this with the type of 1970. (Page 23). Photo credit: Motor Cycle.
- Page 48 Published by the Norton Owners Club and printed by Brazier & Naish Ltd. 202-204 High Road, Benflect Essex SS7 5LD.