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Related Manuals for Red20Rc R220
Summary of Contents for Red20Rc R220
- Page 1 R220 Mini H Quadcopter & R220 Pro MiniQuad...
- Page 2 © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 3 REMEMBER RC Aircraft are not toys! This is a complicated flying machine that requires skill to build and fly. Whilst the R220 Mini H Quad is a stable and capable flyer, it is not really intended for new pilots. Make sure you know the rules for the country you are flying in. If in doubt, seek help from an experienced pilot.
- Page 4 © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 5 The R220 Mini H Quad is supplied in kit form and contains everything you need to complete the frame: Top, bottom and belly plates X4 arms FPV camera mounting plate HD camera vibration isolation plate A complete fixings and fasteners pack...
- Page 6 The R220 is not aimed at beginners so it is likely you already have a pretty good idea of what you are going to use for this build. As a general rule you will need: Motors – 1806 size, 2300kv ...
- Page 7 Run your wires through the hole in the base plate to keep things neat. You should be able to sandwich the PDB and wiring between the bottom and belly plates when you are done. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 8 Complete the wiring by adding any additional components and your power input connector. Here we have added two LED strips to help with orientation and an XT60 connector. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 9 Mount the four center standoffs to the base plate using four M3 10mm nylon screws. It is important to do this now as you won’t be able to access the screw heads once the belly plate is installed. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 10 We have also supplied washers to go underneath the lock- nuts although using these is entirely optional and can be omitted if preferred. If you have used a PDB, you can secure this in place using the screws and standoffs supplied to mount your flight controller. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 11 Fit the landing gear to the holes in the arms using the 10mm standoffs M3 5mm & 8mm nylon screws. Use the 8mm screws to attach the standoffs to the arms and then the 5mm screws to form the “feet” of the landing gear. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 12 Attach your speed controllers and the flight controller as shown. The R220 is designed around the Naze32 Acro controller but any board with the standard 33mm form factor will fit the mounting holes. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 13 M3 screw and nut through the central hole that is drilled directly behind the camera mount slots. We have recently been trying the zip-tie and coffee-stirrer method of mounting the FPV camera (see image) as suggested by the MiniQuad Club. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 14 Install the camera mounting plate onto the baseplate. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 15 We recommend powering the FPV camera and transmitter using a separate wiring harness connected to the balance plug of your LiPo. This way you can isolate your FPV gear from the motors and flight controller should you need to. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 16 This can be fiddly so stick with it! We also chose to mount our video transmitter to the top plate. If placed on the underside of the plate a little way in front of the center it should fit okay once assembled. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 17 In the event of a serious crash the screws are designed to break, protecting the plates from further damage. Use the method of your choice to fix the battery and HD camera in place. We used Velcro™ straps and tape for both. © Red20RC 2014...
- Page 18 The R220 Pro is now available in both a 5 and 6-inch arm version. The 6-inch upgrade will allow you to use larger motors and 6-inch props for high-speed flight. The 6-inch arms have been cut in pairs to increase the lateral strength across the frame.
- Page 19 With the PIDs shown on the product page and the Naze32 Acro in “Horizon” mode we have found the R220 to be incredibly stable and fast but also able to roll and flip within its own length! © Red20RC 2014...