Evil Mad Science Original Egg-Bot Assembly Manual

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Assembly Guide

The Original Egg-Bot kit is the product of many years of evolution, dating back to the first Eggbot,

developed by motion control artist Bruce Shapiro in 1990. The present kit was developed by Evil

Mad Scientist Laboratories in cooperation with Bruce Shapiro, Ben Trombley, and Brian Schmalz.

This kit is designed to allow you to draw on spherical & egg-shaped objects from about

1.5-4.25" (4-10 cm) in diameter. Internet access, simple tools, and a recent-generation computer

(Mac/Win/Linux) with a USB port are required.

This assembly guide covers the procedures for putting together your Eggbot Kit. Typical assembly

time is estimated to be 1-2 hours. Please exercise appropriate care when building it: The kit

contains many small parts and some parts that could be sharp. Keep out of reach of small children.

Older children and teens may require adult assistance.

An open-source hardware+software project. For links to design files, source code, examples,

support resources & additional documentation, please visit: http://egg-bot.com/

Support Forum: http://www.evilmadscientist.com/forum/

Distributed by

Kit version 2.0

Evil Mad Science LLC

Manual v. 2.0f

12/12/2010

http://evilmadscience.com/

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Summary of Contents for Evil Mad Science Original Egg-Bot

Page 1 Assembly Guide The Original Egg-Bot kit is the product of many years of evolution, dating back to the first Eggbot, developed by motion control artist Bruce Shapiro in 1990. The present kit was developed by Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories in cooperation with Bruce Shapiro, Ben Trombley, and Brian Schmalz.
Page 2 STEP 0: It’s the BOM. Your kit came with a bill of materials: an up-to-date list of what’s in your particular kit. The exact items may differ very slightly between versions of the kit. In the instructions, we refer to components by their line item number on the bill of materials.
Page 3 STEP 1: Tool Checklist Essential tools: Needed to build and use the kit: Suggested tools: Recommended; not required 1. Small Phillips head screwdriver(s) 1. Masking tape & Scissors, or Glue There are several places in the assembly process where you There is a place in the appendix where you can-- optionally --use some will need to provide a small Phillips head screwdriver.
Page 4 STEP 2: The first three parts This is the Eggbot chassis, #1 on your BOM. It consists of ﬁve separate pieces. The chassis is made of ﬁberglass and copper. Its edges may initially be sharp, both from how it’s cut, and from any residual tabs–...
Page 5 STEP 3: Deburring the chassis Use the nickel-plated hex wrench (the shiny one!) to remove any sharp edges from the ﬁve chassis pieces. Rub the wrench along each chassis edge at a 45° angle. Usually one solid rub on each edge is sufﬁcient to break any sharp corners.
Page 6 STEP 4: Split bushings, part I Nylon split bushings, part #4 The two nylon split bushings, part #4, go into the two of the chassis pieces indicated, from the sides labeled with the big black circles. TO BE CONTINUED... [Egg-Bot Kit Assembly Guide]...
Page 7 STEP 5: Split bushings, part II To install one of the bushings in the chassis, twist it as shown, so that you can insert it into the hole, one edge at a time. They “snap” into place, and it will be clear when they’re installed correctly.
Page 8 In the unlikely event that it does not ﬁt easily, do not force it. Instead, double-check that the bushings are fully seated and try again. (If the problem persists, please contact Evil Mad Science customer support for help: contact@evilmadscience.com ) [Egg-Bot Kit Assembly Guide]...
Page 9 STEP 7: Screws and Standoffs In the next step, you’ll need the four threaded aluminum standoffs, part #6. You’ll also need 8 pieces of part #7, the 1/4” length stainless steel button socket cap screws. (There are a total of 21 of these in the kit.) Be careful to use all screws of the same length: The Eggbot kit also contains two...
Page 10 STEP 8: Adding Standoffs The screws go into the four holes shown, from the side that where the holes have solid outlines. Here’s how it looks once all four are added. Holding each screw head with a ﬁngertip, thread on the standoff from the opposite Do not tighten the screws (yet).
Page 11 STEP 9: Mating the two tailstock pieces Test ﬁt the two tailstock pieces together: the standoffs The other four screws go into the standoffs from the go against the holes with the dashed outlines. other side, again through the holes with solid outlines. As you insert the screws, tighten them with When you’re done, the tailstock should And, tighten the screws on both sides.
Page 12 STEP 10: Angle brackets In the next step, you’ll need six of the steel angle brackets, part #8. You’ll also need 6 more pieces of part #7, the 1/4” length button socket cap screws. Pro-tip: You may want to test-thread one of the steel screws into each side of each angle bracket, using the hex wrench.
Page 13 STEP 11: Adding tailstock angle brackets Each bracket is held in place by a screw from the other side. Again, they go through the holes with solid outlines. Tighten the screws only just enough to hold them in place. Add the six angle brackets to the tailstock. They sit within the six rectangular outlines.
Page 14 STEP 12: Adding headstock angle brackets Using the same procedure as for the tailstock, use six more screws to add six angle brackets to the headstock. As before, the angle brackets go in the outlined locations. Again, put the angle brackets in loosely at ﬁrst and only tighten them once they’re held ﬂat.
Page 15 STEP 13: Plunger Parts You’ve already met part #5, the 1/4” steel dowel pin. Polyurethane “egg cups,” part #13. There are four in each kit. You’ll only need two, and two are there as extras. We’ll need this in the next few steps, plus the other parts shown here: #3, the 3/32”...
Page 16 STEP 14: Add the shaft collar to the dowel pin Add the 1/4” shaft collar to the end (either end) of the dowel pin. You may need to loosen its screw, but it should ﬁt easily. Carefully line up the end of the end of the dowel pin to the end of the shaft collar.
Page 17 STEP 15: Adding an Egg Cup to the Plunger We’ve already got the shaft collar on the dowel pin Check the shaft end and shaft collar for any dirt, oil, or other debris that could interfere with sticking the egg cup in place. Wipe them off if necessary. Next, we’ll add one of the self-adhesive polyurethane “egg cups”...
Page 18 STEP 16: Installing the Plunger Lay the tailstock down as shown, and place the little O-ring right here. Slide the spring onto the shaft of the dowel pin, and then slide the thin nylon washer into place. Lower the shaft through The tailstock assembly is now complete.
Page 19 STEP 17: The EBB and its mounting hardware Next, we’re going to mount the Eggbot control circuit board. This is the EiBotBoard, aka EggBotBoard, aka EBB, and #14 on your BOM. (This circuit board may be either red or white.) You’ll also need..
Page 20 STEP 18: Where we mount the EBB The EBB will be mounted in this location, oriented as it’s shown below. The EBB has mounting holes on its four corners. To mount it, we’re going to put those four long & hex cap skinny screws in from the back side of the board, in the locations shown below.
Page 21 STEP 19: Adding the EBB, part I Drop one of the hex cap screws into each of these two holes. Hold the screw heads in place with your ﬁngers On the other side, place one of while you ﬂip the headstock over. the nylon spacers over each screw.
Page 22 STEP 20: Adding the EBB, part II Two screws and nuts already hold For the two remaining holes, push a screw up from the bottom, the EBB loosely in place, “hinged” at add the spacer, and thread on the nut from the top side of the EBB. the top by those two screws.
Page 23 STEP 21: Installing Motor 2, the “Egg Motor” It’s a bipolar stepper motor! Test ﬁt the motor in place. It sits above the EBB on the headstock, with its shaft (Part #18 on the BOM.) poking through and its wires (for the moment) hanging down over the EBB. Here’s the motor, ﬁxed in place.
Page 24 STEP 22: Installing Motor 1, the “Pen Motor” Motor 1, the “pen motor” attaches to the chassis side wall. As before, test-ﬁt the motor in place and then use the black M3 screws to ﬁx it in place. The screws on this motor only need to be moderately tight. Pro-tip: You do not need to install all four screws for this motor.
Page 25 STEP 23: Attach the Headstock to the Chassis Part #20 is a small black plastic thumbscrew. These ﬁt through the long slots in the chassis side walls and thread into the angle brackets on the headstock. Use six of them to attach the headstock to the side walls. Part, #20 (6-32 x 1/4”...
Page 26 STEP 24: Attach the Tailstock to the Chassis Use six more of the thumbscrews to attach the tailstock as shown.
Page 27 STEP 25: The other Egg Cup Thread the screw into the shaft collar, and slide the collar into place. Orient the Next we need #21, (a 5 mm shaft collar that screw such that it will tighten down onto the ﬂat face of the motor shaft. As before, ﬁts nicely around the motor shaft) plus one the shaft collar goes ﬂush to the end of the shaft;...
Page 28 STEP 26: The Pen Arm Parts The parts shown here will be used in the next few steps, as we build up the pen arm. Gather them up, and let’s get going! #8, Angle bracket (1) #19, M3 Screw, black (1) #22, the pen arm backer (1) #23, the distal pen arm (1) #24, the pen arm hinge clamp (1)
Page 29 STEP 27: Adding the pen arm hinge ﬂexure hinge In this step we attach the hinge and washer to the distal pen arm. (The clamp is just along for the ride.) Place the ﬂexure hinge as shown, with the Orient the distal pen arm and clamp as shown. holes lined up to those on the distal pen arm.
Page 30 STEP 28: Add the Pen Arm Hinge Clamp Then, place the free end of the ﬂexure hinge over that screw end as shown. Feed one of the “long” stainless screws (#29) from the bottom side of the pen arm hinge clamp. Add the angle bracket on top of the hinge and screw it tightly into Finally, loosely thread the “long”...
Page 31 STEP 29: A look at what’s to come. Here’s what the pen arm will look like after a few more steps. The upper part with the hinge is already done. In the next couple of steps, we’ll prep the servo motor so that we can add it and ﬁnish this assembly.
Page 32 STEP 30: The servo motor, initial setup The servo motor comes in a small bag of accessories... We’ll only need these parts; set the others aside. Take this piece, the servo horn, and push it onto the servo motor shaft. (Do not screw it in place; its position is not ﬁnal yet.)
Page 33 STEP 31: Find the Servo’s Center The total range is about half of a turn. Gently turn the motor by the servo horn until it reaches its stops. First one way, then the other way. Once you know where center is, point the servo horn in that direction.
Page 34 STEP 32: Final installation of servo horn Now that the servo shaft is centered, we need to place the servo Press the servo horn onto the shaft horn at the correct angle. Orient the servo horn as shown: the horn points in the same direction as the cable. Use the small screw from the servo bag to ﬁx the servo horn in place.
Page 35 STEP 33: Install the Servo Motor Hold the servo motor down and ﬂush against the side against the proximal pen arm as shown here, such that there is no gap between them. From the set of servo accessories, take one of the two remaining (larger size) screws, and use it to screw the servo motor down into the wood of the proximal pen arm.
Page 36 STEP 34: Adding the Proximal pen arm Use the other “long” stainless screw (#29) to attach the pen arm assembly with the hinge to the proximal pen arm. Tighten it in place with the 5/64” hex wrench.
Page 37 STEP 35: Adding the Pen Arm Backer #32, the large nylon thumbscrew Add one last M3 screw (#19) to the shaft collar inside the pen arm backer. (Loosely thread it only, at this point.) Using the large nylon thumbscrew, attach the pen arm backer to the proximal pen arm.
Page 38 STEP 36: Installing the pen arm The pen arm goes on the “pen motor,” Motor 1. As before, note that one side of the motor shaft is ﬂatted to accept a screw from a shaft collar. Test-ﬁt the pen arm in place over the shaft. The depth on the shaft is adjustable, so that you can line up the pen holder with the egg axis.
Page 39 STEP 37: Wiring Motor 1 The four wires from Motor 1 (the pen motor) go to the area labeled “Motor 1” on the EBB. Individually insert the four wires into the terminal block and screw them down. The wire order is: grey (or brown), green, yellow, pink, bottom to top.
Page 40 STEP 38: Wiring Motor 2 Wire up Motor 2 next. Its four wires go to the “Motor 2” area of the EBB. Wire order is again grey (or brown), green, yellow, pink, bottom to top. [Egg-Bot Kit Assembly Guide]...
Page 41 STEP 39: Servo Motor Wiring To keep the servo cable out of the way, route it through the “screw hole” of the servo casing, like so: Route the end of the cable through the slot in the headstock labeled “Servo Cable,” and pull it through. The cable orientation is important.
Page 42 STEP 40: Connectivity Hook up the power supply and USB cable. Big hint to avoid future frustration: The EBB will power on and respond to computer commands while only the USB cable is plugged in, but the motors will not move unless the 9V supply is plugged in as well. [Egg-Bot Kit Assembly Guide]...
Page 43 STEP 41: Adding a pen #35, the pen Use the nylon thumbscrew in the distal pen arm to mount a pen in the Eggbot. The standard pen holder ﬁts popular ﬁne point markers like the ultra ﬁne point Sharpie, Copic Multiliner, and many others.
Page 44 - FIN - w00t! Your Eggbot is now assembled, so this concludes the basic assembly instructions for the Egg-Bot Kit. If you’re just building up a new kit, and/or using an Egg-Bot for the ﬁrst time, you will probably want to learn about the following topics next: - Installing Eggbot software - How to set up the Eggbot to draw on any given object - How to do make your ﬁrst drawing with the Eggbot...
Page 45 Appendix A: Eggbot Anatomy Flexure hinge Pen arm Flexure hinge washer hinge clamp Tailstock Pen lift motor Pen Arm (servo motor) Nylon split Bushings (2) Pen motor Tension indicating aka Motor 1 O-ring, around Pen motor position plunger shaft Pen holder slots &...
Page 46 Appendix B: Improving plunger precision, part 1 The holes in the tailstock where the split bushings sit have some natural variation in diameter. If the holes are slightly too small, the split bushings will still ﬁt, but the 1/4” plunger rod will not move smoothly. In that case, However, when the holes are slightly oversized, there’s a plotting is simply not possible.
Page 47 Appendix B: Improving plunger precision, part 2 Masking tape can be used to shim the bushings to reduce the amount of lateral play. (You’ll probably use beige tape, but we use blue so that As mentioned in Step 5, the bushings are removable. you can see it more easily.
Page 48 Appendix B: Improving plunger precision, part 3 Glue works, too. (Better, actually.) If you choose to go this way, please consider the following advice: 1. If possible, use 5-minute epoxy or similar compounds. Viscous, high-quality wood glues or hobby glues can be used with care.