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Related Manuals for McKELLAR AERO DESIGN Gee Bee Z
Summary of Contents for McKELLAR AERO DESIGN Gee Bee Z
- Page 1 Gee Bee Z Construction Manual KELLAR AERO DESIGN Wingspan: 28” Wing Area: 128 in² Weight: 8.5 oz Power: GWS IPS-A gearbox with Medusa 012- 030-4000 brushless motor (30-40W with 8X6 prop) OR small outrunner ©M KELLAR AERO DESIGN Ver. 1.3...
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Page 2: Table Of Contents
Table of Contents Introduction…………………………………….…………..……2 Kit contents…………………………………….……………..….2 Required to complete……………………….……………...2 General building instructions………………...………3 Building the vertical and horizontal tail………3 Building the wing………………………..………..…………..4 Building the cowl……………………………………….……..5 Building the fuselage…………………….……….……..…7 Building the wheel pants………….…………….……….17 Recommended equipment………………………………..20 Final assembly……………………………………………………21 Prepare for flight……………………………….……………22 First flight……………………………………….……………….22 Introduction Thank you for purchasing this model kit. -
Page 3: General Building Instructions
One micro receiver • Motor: 12mm brushless motor (4000Kv) in GWS IPS-A gear box • Or a small outrunner. One speed control with BEC (battery elimination circuit) suitable for your motor. • General Building Instructions It is best to remove the parts from the laser cut sheets only as they are needed. •... -
Page 4: Building The Wing
Building the Wing Remove all the wing ribs and spar parts from the parts sheets. Sand R3 down slightly so it is the same thickness as the 0.047” landing gear wire. Make the R4/R3/R4 laminations and then fit all the ribs in place on the lower spar (W1). Now carefully press the top spar (W2) in place over the ribs. - Page 5 Glue the root ribs in place and be sure to glue W18, W11 and R14 in both wings before applying the top sheeting. Use the aileron torque rod to line up R14 before gluing it. Now, take the spar joiners (W4&W5) and test fit them in place. When you are happy with the fit remove them and glue the top sheeting in place making sure there is no twist in the wing.
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Page 6: Building The Cowl
R8C/R8D/R8C The ailerons are pretty simple, just fit all the parts in place and apply some CA to the joints. Sand the top side of W16 so that is follows the profile of the aileron ribs. Again, use masking tape on the ribs to protect them. The final step for the ailerons is to sand the leading edge into a V shape centered on the hinge line. - Page 7 Now, pin one cowl ring to your building board and fit the cowl rings together with the parts C1, C1, C2 and C3. Use a square to make sure the ring edges line up and apply glue to the joints. Now, fit in place the 1/8” square stock that has been cut on the 1/8” balsa sheet. Make sure these sticks are the correct length before gluing in place.
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Page 8: Building The Fuselage
Building the Fuselage Start with the fuselage sides. F2 is the right side and F1 is the left side. Note that F2 is shorter than F1 due to the right thrust built into the firewall. Make sure you glue the formers on the correct sides and double check before gluing in place. - Page 9 Place F6G and F8E in place on F4 and glue in place. Be sure that you glue these on the correct side of F4. Short side Fit the fuselage sides in place on F4 and glue in place. Now fit the center former pieces shown in the photo below.
- Page 10 The rear top formers are now glued in place. F10A Fit the fin assembly in place making sure it lines up well with the after end of the fuselage and glue in place. This is when you will need all those 1/16”X1/8” stringers. Fit the first stringer in place as shown below.
- Page 11 Stick buts up to former F9A flush with edge. This will support sheeting. All other stringers fit in slots. Continue on with the other stingers and sand a taper on the rear end of the stringers. Note that the forward end of the stringer must be sanded down flush with the edge of F7B so that the sheeting will lie flush with the surface of the stringers.
- Page 12 Once all the side stringers are applied it is time to install the wire tailskid. Then the belly stringer can be glued in place. You will have to taper the back end of them so they all fit. Wire skid goes here Note: hole pre-cut for wire Next, you must fit the wing in position and drill two 1/8”...
- Page 13 Next, the fairing strip (F12) that goes around the stab is installed. The best way to do this is to temporarily fit the stab in place and use it to line up F12. This may take a little sanding to get a good fit but take your time and it should come out well. Now install the pushrod fairings making sure you put them on the correct side.
- Page 14 The photo below show the finished stringers on the top section of the fuselage. Please note which stringers need to be notched to the edge of the former for the sheeting. Notch to sheeting It is now time to start sheeting the fuselage. First step is to glue F16A and F16B together. This is the sheeting that will go over the cockpit area.
- Page 15 F16B Scrap 1/32” balsa F16A The front nose rings are now glued on and sanded to shape F17B F17A F18B F19B Sanded to shape F18A F17C F19A F18C F19C Now take the wing and fit in place on the fuselage. Use a 3/32” drill bit to drill thru the top side of the wing using the bolt hole in F22 as a guide.
- Page 16 The battery hatch is built next. Note that you must sand down the edges of F5 so that it follows the contour of the formers before you apply the sheeting. The central stinger is 1/8” square balsa from the strips cut in the 1/8” thick parts sheet. The other two stringers are 1/16”X1/8”...
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Page 17: Building The Wheel Pants
Apply the 1/32” balsa sheeting to the hatch in four sections, one between each stringer. There is a slight compound curve to this hatch so one or two sheets will not work. The sheeting is cut from the extra wood on the 1/32” balsa parts sheet. Glue the sheeting to F5 first. - Page 18 the wire gear legs well and glue in the slots. Use the wheel to make sure the main gear wire is located correctly before gluing. Rear gear wire Main gear wire 2” wheel Now glue L3A/B onto L1A/B so that L1A/B is sandwiched between L2A/B and L3A/B. L3A/B Glue L4 on both sides of the landing gear assembly.
- Page 19 You must make a groove in one L5 so that the wire leg will fit in it. Then glue in place. Groove The L6 wheel spacers may need to be sanded down a little depending on the width of you wheel.
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Page 20: Recommended Equipment
Finished wheel pants ready for covering. Recommended Equipment The prototype uses the Medusa Research MR-012-030-4000 in the GWS IPS-A gearbox (5.9:1 ratio) with an 8X6 prop and 300 mah 3S (11.1V) lipo battery. This combination provides very good power and is quite light. A small outrunner style motor would work well for this model and the firewall has center lines etched in place to help locating it. -
Page 21: Final Assembly
Final assembly I used Nelson Litefilm to cover the model but you can use whatever light weight covering you prefer. A full set of vinyl graphics including all the wing and fuselage scallops and markings are available from Callie Graphics in Albuquerque, NM. You can contact them via their website http://www.callie-graphics.com/ or by phone at 505-293-2922. -
Page 22: Prepare For Flight
AILERON CONTROL HORNS Now glue the wheel pants in place by applying some glue in the slot for the wire legs. Use epoxy for this and make sure the legs are set at the correct angle. The canopy is glue on with canopy glue once it has been trimmed to fit.
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